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Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011





armorer posted:

That said, I do not think you need one of these. Most hangboards are not designed for beginners, and have a lot of holds that you will probably not be able to use. Worse, if you try to hang on some of them for any extended period it is possible that you can damage a tendon (see Fish Shalami's recent question about a possible campus board training injury.) You can probably get by just fine with pullups, I only bring up that hangboards exist because they might be a good option for you once you are climbing more difficult routes.

We have a hangboard in the bouldering room at university and I use it for pullups as there's great big solid hand holds on top. I was told to be really careful with any finger grips due to the tendon thing, is there any particular length of time where you can be sure your tendons can take it? I've been climbing over 6 months now and just want to make sure I'm not going to wreck myself using the campus boards.

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Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011





I know my technique sucks pretty bad, I've been watching others climb and getting advice but still struggle on occasion. Fun as hell though.

Thanks for the advice.

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011





I'm predominantly a boulderer even though I've been slacking at that. I've been rope climbing a few times but not for years. I recently went and had another introduction as I'd forgotten how to tie my rope and such.

If you want to improve your climbing, go loving bouldering. I'm really not great at it but I was doing pretty drat well at top roping due to it, hauling myself up stuff several grades higher without much difficulty. Finished on a 6a+/5.10a which I'm pretty happy with for a first session.

This joint is my 'local' place, if you're in the UK midlands you should definitely check it out. http://www.bouldercentral.co.uk/

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011





Chris! posted:

In a reverse of this situation, I used to just boulder all the time, but since April haven't bouldered at all, but have been climbing loads with ropes, both in the gym and loads outdoors in England and abroad.

I thought that this would have made improvements in my bouldering, but I went bouldering again on Tuesday night and loving sucked! When I last went I was around font 6b, but I didn't complete any 6's and struggled on some 5a's and 5b's!

I've noticed that people who tend to use ropes struggle a bit bouldering and I've no idea why. There has to be a decent reason somewhere.

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011








Both of these make sense thanks. Like I said I boulder more than I top rope so I think I'm definitely more in the brute force and ignorance school of climbing when it comes to being harnessed up. I definitely need to work on my endurance as that last climb was testing my grip a bit.

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