Rock Climbing: Where there's a wall, there's a way

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chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

hostile apostle posted:

I'm relatively new and a bunch of people recommend The Self-Coached Climber. Found the first two chapters of the book are free to read on Google Books if anyone is curious (maybe worth adding to the OP?). Even just the first two chapters are a good intro.

http://books.google.com/books?id=LV4O2YpzM-YC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false

Thanks for this - I've fallen in love with climbing after trying it out at the MD Earth Treks, so I was planning on getting a membership and climbing much more often.

On that note, I was looking at what sort of gear to get since renting gear is going to get expensive quickly. Does anyone have experience with La Sportiva's Mythos? I tried them out today and found that they fit really comfortably, but being used to stiff-as-a-board rental shoes I was rather alarmed that I could actually bend my toes when I was testing them out on a board they had at the retail area. I'm guessing I tried on a size too big if that's the case?

# ¿ Aug 18, 2014 06:17

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# ¿ Jun 7, 2023 00:46

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Thanks for all the advice!

Thanks for the advice and links, everyone! I'll be reading through them when I get home.

Speleothing posted:

The mythos is a 20 year old design that's kept alive people with oddly shaped feet or strange fetishes for soft shoes that stretch out.

Buy a modern shoe.

I read that the Mythos tends to stretch to your foot since it's leather, but what makes it different or inferior to "modern" shoes? Not as aggressive of a toebox or something? What shoe line would you recommend then for someone who will mostly be doing top rope and bouldering?

# ¿ Aug 18, 2014 23:16

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Thanks guys! I'll hold off on the purchase so I can try out more shoes in person.

# ¿ Aug 20, 2014 05:33

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

guppy posted:

First clean V3 tonight! I don't boulder much so I've been trying to make this transition for a while now.

Congratulations! I pretty much spent a few hours just bouldering today and it's a ton of fun, even if I can only send little babby V1s so far.

# ¿ Aug 27, 2014 03:24

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

So I got a little bleeding under my calluses after a pretty rough bouldering session. It's nothing to be worried about, right? I just let it heal up for a day or two and go back on the wall? I'm used to calluses from deadlifting so they don't bother me but the blood is new.

# ¿ Sep 5, 2014 04:03

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

lime rind posted:

Another bouldering question: How can I be less afraid of falling for high heights? I feel like I'm going to sprain something. I've watched this video, but when I get higher than my own height I feel like nothing can save me. Is there anything I can start doing to help me feel more comfortable when I'm up higher?

Only going from my limited personal experience, but what helped me get over it was downclimbing a little bit and then falling. The more used to falling properly I got, the less restricted I felt. Of course, make sure that crash pads and all are in place, and downclimb when you can! I've certainly fallen from holds higher than my height and had nothing but a an adrenaline rush.

# ¿ Oct 21, 2014 04:49

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

So if anyone's looking for some gear, 5.10 is doing a closeout sale with some great discounts on some boots and older climbing shoes.

# ¿ Nov 10, 2014 23:42

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Those are loving amazing. :stare:

Can't wait to climb outdoors.

# ¿ Dec 3, 2014 01:47

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Climbing goal for 2015? Learn lead and actually climb and boulder outside for the first time. I'm not too far from Carderock and Great Falls so there are at least some outdoor opportunities here.

# ¿ Dec 8, 2014 13:50

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

In my personal experience for someone new to climbing it's not grip strength that holds me back (even if I have to end sessions pumped from overgripping), it's footwork, technique, and sequencing.

# ¿ Dec 10, 2014 01:42

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

bartlebyshop posted:

This can be hard to remember when one of my male friends goes from 0 to V6 in 6 months and then makes fun of me when I fall on a four for "not wanting it enough."

Get better friends :v:

(I'm just bitter I'm not climbing V6 after 6 months, but everyone progresses at their own pace)

# ¿ Dec 18, 2014 08:40

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Shoe chat: i have a pair of the Miura VS, but when I was trying on slightly larger solutions I think the Solutions were much more comfortable due to the neoprene sock. For reference my Miura VS are downsized around 1.5 sizes from street (8/8.5-7).

With regards to shoes, there are a lot of complaints that the metal buckles the Miura's straps go through will cut through the strap if you're not careful about the buckles hitting the rock.

I have Morton's toe and slightly wider low volume feet however, and I can't really walk in my Miuras without a lot of pain in my toes because of how the aggressive asymmetrical shape squishes them together. I might be looking for more comfortable yet still down turned shoes next payday - looking at the Tenaya Tarifas, but I'm leery of buying shoes without trying them on in person before parting with cash after my experience with the Miuras.

chami fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jan 8, 2015

# ¿ Jan 8, 2015 22:42

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

guppy posted:

$20 day passes here at EarthTreks in Maryland, membership is $69/74 for single-/multi-gym. There are some in-between options as well but they're mostly close to those options -- you can get a 7-punch pass for $120 (so $20 a punch with one free, or ~$17 per visit) or a 30- or 90-day for a bit less than the membership. The membership has a startup cost but also includes all the other benefits like free clinics, (small) gym, yoga, shop discount, etc. Renting gear is another $10. If you're going to be there with any frequency, buying gear and a membership is far better.

I'm assuming pricing at the Golden, CO location is similar.

Same here, and I have to get the $75 multi-gym because I go to the Rockville gym. It's worth it for the convenience and access to gym + weights + classes.

Speaking of spending money, my Tenaya Tarifas arrived today. Comfy as hell, I'm a convert. Anyone want to buy a month-old Miura VS, EU 40?

chami fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Jan 12, 2015

# ¿ Jan 12, 2015 01:00

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

turevidar posted:

Does anyone have recommendations for preventing and dealing with callouses? I've been sanding mine, but it's tough to get the ones at the base of my fingers without tearing up my palms.

Those cheese grater callus shavers work wonders. I think there are narrower ones that can help you out.

# ¿ Feb 3, 2015 18:38

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Another vote for the Stretch Zions, though they did say they were on a budget and those pants are pricey.

# ¿ Mar 15, 2015 03:28

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

petrol blue posted:

I did a rockover!

4th session climbing (third with the bf), and we focused a lot more on 'doing easier climbs better' rather than 'hardest climbs we can do' - seems to be a lot better approach for the minute, it felt more graceful, and between us we worked out a pretty elegant solution (for our current skill) on a couple of the climbs! Silly newb stuff, but drat it's fun!

This is a good thing to be doing as a newbie in my own newbie experience - do things well within your comfort zone, but focus on your footwork, practice flagging and drop knees, or find stable positions for reaching for holds by hovering your hands over holds for a few seconds before actually grabbing them. Paying attention to your balance and trying out different solutions is a ton of fun as well, it helps ease me into a sort of flow when I'm climbing.

quote:

Happily, the route changes last week didn't change my (drumroll, etc) Evil Nemesis Problem, I will figure out an elegant solution to that fucker. Made it again, but the last move still feels sketchy as hell, and I love how fun 'solving' it is.

Check with your gym as to how often they reset walls and when that particular section is coming up. That gives you a deadline, and deadlines are great :getin:

quote:

Still not happy with climbing pants (hacked-off army surplus, clung to knees when I got sticky), I'm just gonna have to give up and make my own ones, better ones, out of blackjack and hookers.

Honestly, if you're short on cash shorts do just fine. Just be careful not to scrape your knees!

# ¿ Mar 18, 2015 05:41

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

guppy posted:

Girlfriend never really did anything athletic before, but she tried climbing with me a few months ago and wound up really liking it and joining the gym and going with me a couple times a week. She made the move to 5.9 a while back, and we were doing several routes last night on the same wall and rope and she decided "gently caress it, while we're here I'm going to try this 10b" and finished it. Climbing is the best I also finally convinced her to stop renting shoes and buy a pair -- she bought a harness long ago but has been inexplicably resistant to getting shoes.

Shows a lack of (climbing) commitment. :colbert:

Congratulations on the 10b! Also, don't you guys climb at ET Timonium or am I mistaken? Have you guys ever tried bouldering at Northwest Branch? A family friend gave me his crash pad and I was thinking about bouldering outside for the first time while the weather is good.

# ¿ Apr 21, 2015 17:26

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

I don't think aggressive shoes are ever going to be comfy enough for all - day wear. Tenaya Tarifas come close, but they're laces and a bit less aggressive than the Miura VS you're looking at. I can't wear my VS for more than a few problems at a time and they were painful as heck first, but they're pretty precise and powerful as others have said.

If you're trying to get power and comfort I would try out the Tenaya Oasi if it's carried in a store near you - some of the other boulderers in my gym rock them and say they're pretty comfy.

chami fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Apr 29, 2015

# ¿ Apr 28, 2015 13:01

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

benwards posted:

I wear 9.5EEE and the velcro Sportivas are the best things I've climbed in. I also have very high arches, so maybe it's more about total volume than width? Who knows. Maybe the real moral is: try on a bunch of shoes and buy the ones that feel good!

Well I think the confusion might be in that the Miura VS (Velcro) and Miura (lace) have rather different shapes even if they have the same name.

# ¿ Apr 30, 2015 17:26

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

RabidWeasel posted:

p.s. seriously guys don't do dangerous poo poo when you're belaying

Yeah, this past Tuesday somebody decked from above the third clip in the gym because her belayer was talking to someone. :gonk:

Always climb safely goons!

# ¿ May 1, 2015 13:01

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

tortilla_chip posted:

Al's Diner (My first 5.13!)

That is one amazing photo, congratulations on the send!

# ¿ Jun 5, 2015 19:41

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Dutymode posted:

My pythons are worn out so I picked up some Instinct VS's on sale. I went a half size larger than the smallest ones I could cram on. The fit is almost roomy, and I wore them pretty comfortably for two hours straight the first time out. I'm sure the condition of my old shoes is part of this, but they were immediately more precise than the old shoes, and the rubber is fantastic as well. I thought I'd need more time to get used to the thicker toe, but I was really surprised with the sensitivity.

Instinct VS's are amazing, I got a pair on sale recently and they've broken in quickly and smeared much better than expected on Carderock's slabby rock. They're aces for edging too and are great for wider ducky morton's toe-having people like myself.

Going to Cooper Rock for some volunteer work and hopefully some bouldering this weekend, I'm so excited! :3:

# ¿ Aug 27, 2015 03:04

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

I've heard that Central Park actually has a little bit of bouldering; otherwise you can find some climbing buddies and go up to the Gunks?

# ¿ Sep 15, 2015 19:13

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

gamera009 posted:

Joining the injury train.

DBC set a traverse around a large volume with glassy as poo poo feet. I brushed it to what I figured was as good as it gets, and gave it a whirl. The exit around the volume had no hands, so I was trying to crimp on a foot jib and my foot blew off some of the glassiest poo poo I have had to put feet on.

Wrenched shoulder and wrist. Face came down and a jug below smashed into my jaw and slammed it up and wrenched my head back. The impact tossed me onto my back on the mat.

Day after:
Limited mobility in shoulder and wrist due to pain.
Neck has limited range of motion due to pain. Stiff as hell.
Abrasion under chin from impacting the hold.
Bit through tongue (.1-.2cm?) and took out a small piece that I swallowed by accident.
My jaw hurts like hell the next day and my right ear feels full and needs to pop. Like a bad earache.

I have no idea if I was concussed. Really disoriented ex post facto, but managed to drive home before getting help cleaning up and just passing out.

I don't really have the time to see a doctor and I'm not sure what they'd tell me other than "don't do that again."

Definitely raises a question in my mind though: should gyms take into consideration existing routes when bolting up holds from the standpoint of safety? I think the fall wouldn't have been so bad if there wasn't the jug haul running right through it in such a way as to guarantee you smashing your face in them. BudManstrong did the problem before me and had nearly the same injury (clipped his face lightly). I should have taken that as a sign not to do it, but I'm clearly an idiot.

Holy poo poo dude. Hope you can see a doc soon.

And setters really should look at a completed wall for safety issues once they're done setting; I know there were a few problems that bumped up in difficulty after the problems around them were set because the other holds complicated the movement through the earlier problem.

# ¿ Feb 11, 2016 16:02

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

NaDy posted:

Hey all, newbie climber question here.

I've recently gotten into climbing a lot, mainly indoor bouldering at the moment. I'm looking to get my first pair of shoes rather than renting ill fitting smelly ones from the gym. I went and tried on a few pairs from different brands like Scarpa, Red Chilli, Evolv etc but I seemed to have a similar issue with all of them. That issue being they were all pretty uncomfortable and constricting at the toe end, but had a lot of excess space at the heel end. I tried on models that were marketed more towards comfort with flatter soles but they all seemed to have that issue.

Is this something that will change as I wear the shoes in, or am I missing something about the sizing of climbing shoes?

What Falkaugaa said, plus uncomfortable toeboxes may or may not break in depending on the material of the shoe and the last, but dead space in the heel will always be a problem. What style of shoes were you looking at (aggressively cambered or symmetrical, downturned or flat-lasted) and have you measured your feet? Do you have wide feet or Morton's Toe?

# ¿ Feb 26, 2016 13:18

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

gamera009 posted:

And so it begins: new shoe selection.

My evolve shaman pair are rapidly dying a terrible death (and malodorous) and washing them isn't fixing anything anymore. I'll definitely wear the rest of the front tow cap down, but it's time.

Anyone know of ridiculously wide toe-box shoes? I think the best thing I found at Neptune Mountaineering was the oddly not-too-uncomfy Sportiva pythons, but I'm always open to shoes that don't cost >$120. Someone I know suggested the boostics from scrap so I may try those as well.

If you're looking to save money your Shaman model is probably out on clearance due to the 2016 model getting released a little while ago.

I'm pretty fond of my Instinct VS for my wide-ish feet.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2016 17:12

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Megabound posted:

Oh good, shoe chat. Does anyone with Morton's Toe have a good recommendation for a technical pair? I tried some Tenaya Oasi but my second toe wouldn't let me wear them for 5 seconds.

Morton's Toe and slightly wide feet - I regularly wear Instinct VS and Miura VS before that without too much issue. My index toe is only about 1cm longer than my big toe though, so the wider and higher volume toeboxes in both those models really help with comfort.

I actually also have a pair of the Tenaya Tarifas; they're less aggressive than the Oasi but Tenaya lasts are just too narrow for me. If you've got narrow - normal feet you might want to give those a try.

# ¿ Feb 28, 2016 15:19

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Tots posted:

Attention DMV climbing goons, I made a space on Slack for climbers to get together around the various climbing spots of the DMV (also for daytrip planning). Let me know if you want to get in on it and I'll shoot you an invite.

I'll take an invite as well, planning to get back into climbing after a minor injury break.

Also the Mid-Atlantic Climbers have a trail maintenance/bouldering event going on this Sunday at Mt. Gretna if you guys were looking to go outside this weekend.

# ¿ Mar 18, 2016 16:16

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

spwrozek posted:

Climbing not better then sex, although sending 11C was pretty sexy, but your enthusiasm is great.

Bottomless blower powder now... That might be.

Yessss get pumped. :getin:

# ¿ Apr 20, 2016 19:04

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Rime posted:

So yesterday my climbing buddy and I bailed at the halfway point of a 10b multipitch, because the crux of the first pitch wigged me out bad and I couldn't calm down enough to do the second pitch, and she couldn't lead it. So we walked off.

Figured I just needed to zen out and spend some time on the rope hanging, getting used to free air, so I went and spent five hours on rap cleaning some routes today and listening to the ocean below me. This was a hella satisfying, highly recommend:

This evening I went to get my lead card at our gym with her, did a 10c to warm up and felt something was wrong. Couldn't get the sequence right, was freaking out on holds, got alarmed at a tiny bit of slack on the line. On top rope...

I belayed just fine for the test, but when I went up the wall I could not let go. I started shaking like a leaf and could not let go. Had to top out, anchor, and get lowered - at which point I nearly fainted from fear / adenaline. Waited twenty minutes and then did it again, managed to let go after 15 seconds, almost pissed myself. Spent the next two hours doing simulated falls but I am still wigging out on them and can't just let myself fall like an angel. Not even off the anchor ffs.

I can only assume that watching my friend of many years deck in free fall from 20 feet two weeks ago affected me way waaaay worse than I realized at the time and it had been festering in the back of my head. I am the guy with the most "give-no-shits climb like YOLO" attitude of our little group, so this is pretty embarrassing and I'm worried my acrophobia has come back with a vengeance. This puts a kink in my extreme multipitch goals for the summer.

Oh no, that is the worst feeling. :ohdear:

I hope your acrophobia doesn't come back.

# ¿ Apr 27, 2016 12:59

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

gamera009 posted:

To contribute to shoe-chat:

If you have wide feet, Butora is for you. Holy gently caress.

I managed to try the Instinct VS, La Sportive Pythons, and the Acros Wide from Butora.

Across Wide were by far the most comfortable thing I have ever worn. Only downside is the incut of the heel shape makes for a pillow on my feet (my heel comes almost directly up to my ankles so I don't have "euro feet."). Rock and Resole may be able to fix that though.

All in all, if you have wide as gently caress feet and have issues finding a wide enough shoe, Butora is where it's at. Also, they're all leather and cut from good whole cuts!

I gave them a try and the shoe cuts into my Achilles in a way that the instinct vs doesn't

been hearing great things about them though!

# ¿ May 29, 2016 16:37

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Sit start on a sloper on a slab wall. Guess I gotta git gud to do this one. :negative:

# ¿ Jul 16, 2016 21:44

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

In other climbing news, Adam Ondra just did the 2nd free ascent of the Dawn Wall.

Dude is a beast.

# ¿ Nov 22, 2016 14:37

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Dutymode posted:

Yea, it's not that my foot is coming out of the shoe, it just doesn't feel as secure. I definitely don't trust my heel to stick to a hold like I did with the Instincts. I think I'm probably happier with a more sensitive shoe than the Shamans. They also seem to suck for smearing. Maybe I'll give the Skwamas a shot, I loved Pythons when I had those.

I'm a little intrigued when you say the Instinct's neoprene sock is rubbing the top of your foot raw. Is it shifting constantly while you're climbing?

# ¿ Feb 24, 2017 04:34

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Those shoes are still good, you haven't worn through to the rand yet. Them losing their edges is to be expected through normal use.

# ¿ Jul 22, 2017 21:46

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

COOL CORN posted:

I climbed a couple times 2-3 years ago, and have since gotten super out of shape and overweight. I keep wanting to go to the gym and climb, but haven't had anyone to go with. I've since moved to a new state and have a new, very supportive partner, and got to go climb with her siblings today at their gym. I think I might join and start going regularly.

I flew up a few 5.5s and got about 90% up a 5.6 before my grip was just done for the day. I'm a little embarrassed to feel proud about that, but I guess everyone has to start somewhere

I figure I'll try on shoes at REI/the gym, but what's the best way to pick up a harness? Same thing? Try on at REI/gym and look for deals online?

We can go shoe shopping sometime at the REI or the gym itself. Also Evolv is going to have a shoe demo at the Rockville gym tomorrow with 20% off skies that day if you want to try different shoes out.

Finally I'm pretty sure I have smaller feet than you but if you're close to a 7 I have a pair or two you can have it they work for you. :3:

Only caveat is that I don't have much time to climb with you two until I finish my move next week or after that.

# ¿ Sep 11, 2017 10:51

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

COOL CORN posted:

Sure yeah, I'm nowhere near fit enough / geared enough to make trad climbing worthwhile, was mostly just curious what's in my area. That link is great though, thanks.

Try the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club - I think they have a regular trad climbing session where an experienced leader takes you up Seneca Rocks. A climbing buddy of mine did it last year and says it was amazing.

# ¿ Sep 26, 2017 04:17

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

COOL CORN posted:

Oh, maybe the Thursday fall is what I saw on the news.

In other news, I sent a V2 for the first time, which I know is baby stuff, but it's progress for me

As long as you're climbing harder than you were last month, keep at it!

# ¿ Sep 29, 2017 23:41

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

spwrozek posted:

Let me know if you need the obligatory spotter that says 'come on' over and over!

I will also slightly move the pad and then mid the spot completely.

You misspelled ALLEZALLEZALLEZ

# ¿ Mar 16, 2018 23:21

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# ¿ Jun 7, 2023 00:46

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Lysol spray to remove the smell, and desiccant bags/boot bananas in the shoes before and after climbing to prevent it in the future.

# ¿ Aug 5, 2018 15:31

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