Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Rime
Nov 2, 2011


So last night I visited a bouldering specific gym rather than my usual "top-rope with a bouldering wall" place, after taking a year off from climbing, and drat but it kicked my rear end. At the old place I could crank out up to a V2 on a good day despite the vacation, but at this new one it was like the V0's were climbing ladders and the V1's all required jump-grabs to crimps with a hand reversal in the process.

Do I just suck? :saddowns:

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Took a two-day outdoor course with a local mountaineering club this weekend, after a single-day introductory a few weeks back. This time we covered seconding (cleaning the route), top-down belay, and prussic assisted rappelling. I'm super hooked on climbing now for life, and this one 5.9 friction route completely kicked my rear end, I had to back out and do half of it by shimmying up a nearby fissure instead. :saddowns:

My shoes hurt like hell though, one of them is eating the back of my heel and my toes are terribly squished. They've been fine in the gym but outdoors is a whole different set of moves. Did MEC do me wrong by insisting I go down from a size 10 to a size 7? Should I try and exchange for a larger pair?

Rime fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Jun 15, 2014

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


I'm really bored doing 11a's inside and my gyms two artifical cracks are worn down glassy garbage which never get cleaned.

So tell me the secret to climbing outdoors in the winter while not losing my fingers to frostbite, so I can show up to some meetups already informed. Preferably how crack works in this weather, cracks are my crack.

Cracklife.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Went out to the crag, jammed my hands against it, felt the icy touch of death from that harsh granite and nope'd right the gently caress back to a warm shower.

Winter climbing in Canada is not for the bare handed, nope nope nope.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Save me jeebus posted:

I just found out today that this website is a thing:

http://jive-assanchors.com

My fave is the newest post showing an American Death Triangle hung in Ouray Ice Park. As if the ADT isn't bad enough, add crampons to the mix! Should be fun times.

As an aside, guess where I'm going this weekend!?!?! I will not be trading ropes at Ouray Ice Park. Noooooope.

Hahaha, oh god this is gold, that hobnail piton. :cripes:

Reminds me of the poo poo my buddy has been sending me from Japan:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


crazycello posted:

Update: Queen Creek Canyon is alright if you're in the area but kinda meh. However, 'The Homestead' is fantastic.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BBgfieswoyOwQoUE7_dC3Hs5BnIvW5HjKSoDNA0/

Tufa wrestling.

Private account, yo.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


It's 12* this week but it won't stop raaaaaining long enough to dry out the rock. I'm so sick of indoors. :argh:

Here's a stupid route at my local gym:



It's an 11b that starts with with two dyno's right off for anyone shorter than 6', and 2/3rds of the way up you hit these opposing slopers with one foothold waaaaay off to the left and no obvious progression.

Oh, and both dynos are to hand-pinch rectangles. First horizontal, second vertical. No pockets anywhere aside from the first undercling.

3 of us tried, three of us were clean and failed utterly at the slopers.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Yeah, lead makes those 5.9 and 5.10 routes heart-poundingly fun again. :woop:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Guys can I share how stoked I am for this season? My first rope and lead rack just got here (26th birthday present to myself) and it's finally warm enough to hit the rock outside. Easter weekend is gonna be radical, no more gym stank for me! :woop:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011




Infinity Dry 9.5 60m
5x Element 12cm
3x sling for alpine draws.

Need more draws for trad multipitching later this summer, but I'm covered for the spring. The action on these is waaay smoother in the hand than my buddies BD draws.

This rope is the nicest I've ever used, it feels like it was made by elves. :3:

Rime fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Mar 9, 2016

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


After my buddy and I planned an epic week-long road trip for this august, involving 10,000 cumulative feet of trad ascent over five days, I figured I should probably start training harder.

So I was working the pullup bar in my kitchen doorway and decided to do some stomach curls. At which point the bar let go and dropped me 4.5 feet onto my head.

Now I have a concussion, whiplash, and can't climb for a week. :doh:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Got my first lead routes in nearly 8 months yesterday, all clean including a gnarly 23m 5.9 which had me sweating bullets due to the 10' runout between bolts near the top. Seeing my climbing partner deck 20 feet the night before during his lead course had me a bit on edge.

Didn't help that he and our third weren't leading and can't clean anchors, as they've both never climbed outdoors before. So I was leading the routes, belaying one partner, and then toproping back up to clean and rapp down. Twice the time on the wall, twice the nerve jitters for someone terrified of heights.

Also big cracked-up pillars are fun, and that mammut infinity is made by elves oh lawdy best rope ever. :woop:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


He ran off to pair up with some girl, she fumbled the grigri, and he decked from the 5th bolt during a practice fall. Ultra cushy mats so he was fine. :shrug:

I sort of wish he'd at least had whiplash because the dipshit is proud of having walked off a decking, and spent yesterday telling me that the routes I was sweating bullets leading were "so easy" and he could totally have lead them and cleaned the anchors ( because he watched some YouTube videos) he just didn't want to because he wasn't confident in my lead belay skills. While he lead belayed me...

Now, I took the lead course with him to brush up from being rusty and because I wanted to keep an eye on the cocky dumbass before we climbed outside. I've been leading for a year and building anchors for three, and I lead and set the topropes the git was gravy climbing on all day. :argh:

Needless to say, when my actual climbing partner gets back from abroad we will not be inviting Mr. Decking on our multipitch adventures.

Rime fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Apr 19, 2016

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


turevidar posted:

Get away from that dude. I wouldn't let someone with that attitude towards falls belay me.

That's a gorgeous pillar! Where is it?

Hah. I've known the guy for like 16 years, since grade school. He's always been an overconfident idiot when it comes to himself, but is a surprisingly attentive belayer. He's just a dick. Thankfully my best friend and regular partner is back in the country as of this week.

It's in The Pillary at Area 44, Squamish. 5 routes on it from 5.7 to a 5.10d on a bruuutal looking arrete. 44 is my favourite place to climb in the squamish area, by far. :woop:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Took a cute girl climbing at a seaside crag on a gorgeously sunny afternoon, almost got stranded by the tide, anointed my rope in the ocean (awww yeah dry ropes), and then taught her to rappel, lead, build anchors, and had her do all of the above for the first time.

Today was a good day in climbing. :kiddo:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


So yesterday my climbing buddy and I bailed at the halfway point of a 10b multipitch, because the crux of the first pitch wigged me out bad and I couldn't calm down enough to do the second pitch, and she couldn't lead it. So we walked off.

Figured I just needed to zen out and spend some time on the rope hanging, getting used to free air, so I went and spent five hours on rap cleaning some routes today and listening to the ocean below me. This was a hella satisfying, highly recommend:



This evening I went to get my lead card at our gym with her, did a 10c to warm up and felt something was wrong. Couldn't get the sequence right, was freaking out on holds, got alarmed at a tiny bit of slack on the line. On top rope...

I belayed just fine for the test, but when I went up the wall I could not let go. I started shaking like a leaf and could not let go. Had to top out, anchor, and get lowered - at which point I nearly fainted from fear / adenaline. Waited twenty minutes and then did it again, managed to let go after 15 seconds, almost pissed myself. Spent the next two hours doing simulated falls but I am still wigging out on them and can't just let myself fall like an angel. Not even off the anchor ffs.

I can only assume that watching my friend of many years deck in free fall from 20 feet two weeks ago affected me way waaaay worse than I realized at the time and it had been festering in the back of my head. I am the guy with the most "give-no-shits climb like YOLO" attitude of our little group, so this is pretty embarrassing and I'm worried my acrophobia has come back with a vengeance. This puts a kink in my extreme multipitch goals for the summer. :ohdear:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Yeah I'm going out this weekend to fall as many times as my hips can bear it. All I can do, really. Just really shocked I got so mindwhacked.

That's a 6mm cordlette prussik closed with a double fisherman's and locked to the belt. There's a second one below the atc as a backup which is locked to the leg loop. The extra cord you can't figure out is just the loop for the brush so that if I drop it, it doesnt fall in the ocean. :v:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Yeah, I didn't end up falling this weekend. Went out friday and chilled out cleaning for hours, and then bolted my first route (restorative bolting on an old route at the crag I'm volunteering time at), and then ran a really sick new 5.7/5.9 line we'd identified.



Then I went up to Squamish and learned to lead on trad gear, sent a sick 25m crack. I didn't get the jitters once despite the route being hella vertical, and oddly found trad to be way, waaaay more relaxing than sport. Probably because if I felt iffy I could just drop a cam and keep rolling, instead of commiting to a big drop.

Being able to just layback cruise the whole drat thing was great. :haw:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


I quit my job to climb for two months. May the crag have mercy on my hands.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


It's no big plans. Work wanted to put me on permanent graveyards, I told them $6k was enough to survive on and to pound sand. Now I climb till mid September, when I'll have to think about getting a job or living in my Forester.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Mons Hubris posted:

Just signed up for a Meetup to go outdoor toproping for the first time at Pilot Mountain in NC next month. Quote this post when I fall off a mountain.

If you don't fall you aren't climbing, so you better hope we're quoting it. :science:

I'm smuggling a trad rack across the Canadian border next week, because backcountry won't ship DMM here and I like saying "oh, I climb on dragons :smuggo:".

Rime fucked around with this message at 19:13 on May 17, 2016

Rime
Nov 2, 2011




One very abused vintage motorcycles worth of trad gear. :getin:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


The autobelays in my gym scare the bejeesus out of me: they look a million years old, the casings rattle, and they drop you 3-4 feet before the magnetics kick in which is hella unnerving every time.

I suppose the last one is great for getting over lead fall jitters, but still, ugh.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Buy the cheapest, trashiest, 9.8mm 70m rope you can get your grubby little hands on, because you're going to beat the crap out of it and maybe even core it if you're super unlucky. Get a rope tarp (or a beach towel) so it don't get dirty.

After a year or two of climbing go buy a nice $300 dry rope.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Dry ropes are also nice if, say, you're on pitch 7/15 and it starts pissing rain. Or you want to go climb slab naked in the rain. Or you just want some nice seaside cragging action where 10m of rope is taking a swim while your belayer gets their butt tickled by waves.

Plenty of reasons to want a dry rope outside of ice. Wet ropes in devices sucks donkey nostrils.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Downclimb your routes. Also really good for building technique and preparing for moving out of sportclimbing babby-land into mountaineering, where the real fun is. :black101:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Awww yeah, got my IRATA cert today, with an "excellent" rating for completing everything smoothly and pro in about 45 minutes.

Not strictly rock climbing related but I figure the highest number of goons who even know what that is would be here. :woop:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


I went from 10a to 10d on outdoor lead in a single weekend of crushing, and now it's been raining for two weeks, I haven't hit the gym, and my two regular partners are touring relentlessly with a band or moving across the country.

I really hope the sun comes back, I wanted to lead 11a before the snow flies. :(

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Baronash posted:

I would never have guessed that there was a puzzle aspect to climbing.

The puzzle is what got me, and i'm sure many others, addicted. It's as much a mental game as it is physical.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Nah brah, it's all about those sick high / low angle shots that make you look like Honnold:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


As newbies you'll almost certainly drag holes in your toe rand, so go the traditional newbie route and buy some dirt-cheap Tarantulas. They're decent and won't start hindering you till you hit the mid-11's, will force you to focus on technique by virtue of being bland when it comes to performance, and by the time they wear out you'll have a better idea of what type of climbing you enjoy and thus what type of shoe you'll enjoy.

Then you'll buy a pair of Mythos or something and instantly jump up a grade and a half. :haw:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Patrovsky posted:

As someone who is not a super good climber, but wants to do bouldering, I run into trouble where even the most basic of bouldering problems are super difficult for me. Am I better off improving my regular indoor climbing to improve at bouldering, or to just keep pushing at the bouldering?

v0 is 5.9, V2 is around 5.11 a/b, if that makes you feel any better. The difference is that you will almost never see a 5.9 indoors which is as hyper-positive as a bouldering wall.

Boulder to improve your outdoor climbing stamina and technique, but climbing is only marginally going to improve your bouldering.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Need some advice for this year:

My climbing partner keeps insisting I take a trad climbing course and refuses to let me trad climb anything above 5.7 until I do so, which has become somewhat offensive. I do not need to take a course, courses are for yuppies with more money than time / effort, I am perfectly happy with my copies of John Long / Craig Luebben and long hours spent practicing placement. I own my own rack, it is not his gear.

I'm really getting annoyed by his super-paranoid approach to climbing which results in very little fun and a whole lot of time spent loving around doing 10m 5.6 routes, and not even a half dozen in a full day at best. With my other partner unwilling to even lead on sport, I feel that I am being held back. Last summer I went out with another friend and quickly rocketed from 10a sport lead up to 10d clean, just due to the difference in atmosphere, but he's moved back east.

Am I being unreasonable, or should I just ditch my friends and find climbing partners who are interested in actually pushing boundaries instead of incessantly fiddling around? :(

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Thom and the Heads posted:

went climbing for the first time this weekend. absolutely loved it despite being the only fat guy on the wall. My lack of expertise seemed to inconvenience a few nine year olds heh. did you guys know "5.12" is actually really, really hard and not .8 easier than a 5.2? :shobon:

Just wait till you go climbing outside, it's like resetting your progress in one of those incremental flash games. 5.9 is wild all over again!

Then you get into Trad and all the way up piddly little 5.8's you're​ sweating bullets and trying to build a ladder out of bricks you've shat. :v:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


I was going to climb in Squamish this weekend. The forecast is now for snow.

:negative:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


https://vimeo.com/210809039

:stonk:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Just remember that the secret to every route is to figure-4 the starting move and you'll do fine.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Yeah most people hit 10d within about fast and then start to struggle, depending on the gyms routesetters. Mainly because you can brute force those routes pretty easy if they're 10m or less and lacking overhangs, but 11a starts requiring serious technique and strategic use of energy.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


The endless winter continues here in BC, and Skaha is going to be packed like a gym the first week after New Years this weekend, so I'm off to Vantage for four straight days of sun and basalt.

gently caress yeah, Vantage! Love me some 90' vertical columns, so unique. :woop:

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


When you wake up at 6, pound breakfast, and are racked up and ready to crush, but your two partners still aren't finished breakfast at 9 and all the routes are now camped. :argh:

Vantage is beyond sick, so different from Squamish, and there must be 200 desperate British Columbians here this weekend.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply