Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


So I've been bouldering on and off for the past year, and can intermittently get most of the v2 routes down. I'm out of undergrad, again, and have time to actually climb regularly, so I'm looking to get into some climbing shoes. I think the gym uses Evolv Defy's, which I've generally liked but aren't the most comfortable. Has anyone tried the La Sportiva Tarantulace? They were damned comfortable, but the store I was at didn't really have a wall to try them out on. Specifically, I'm looking at how much I need to buy smaller. I wear a 10 street shoe, the 9 Tarantulace was comfortable if a tiny bit small, which I like in my shoe, but I wanted to know how much they stretch and how quickly they wear out. Anyone used these?

Tried the Mad Rock Phoenix, too, which had some really weird sizing when I stood up in them, but were alright otherwise. Nagos were likewise incredibly comfortable until I actually put any weight on them, then they murdered the arch of my foot, for whatever reason. (I do have very flat feet).

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Pander posted:

I have the velcro La Sportiva Tarantulas. I love them simply because they're easy to use and pretty comfy. Going a bit small is good with shoes, since you'll stretch them out a little via normal use, and a bit small/uncomfortable on the ground means they'll climb well with less discomfort and slipping.
Cool, so they didn't stretch too much after you bought them? That was really my only concern, since I don't really have the cash and I figure that after they stretch after use I can't very well return them.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Dutymode posted:

I've been having a lot of discomfort in my hands and arms the last few weeks. It's kind of hard to describe, like a dull ache in my tendons with some tingling/spasms throughout. I also feel like I've had some strength loss in my biceps. I only climb every 2-3 days max. My diet's been kinda crappy lately, but I'm starting to get concerned that I can't shake this.
This is exactly what's been happening to me, though its just my right elbow. Its like I pulled it somehow.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Not clothes-chat, but has anyone been bouldering at the Sportrock in Alexandria, VA? How is it?

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Awesome, thanks.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


SeaborneClink posted:

I bought nagos about 6 months ago as my first shoe. Get them smaller than you think is "comfortable" slightly uncomfortable & tight is what you're looking for, mine have definitely stretched.

Edit: FYI the red dye will definitely run and stain your feet :gibs:
The Nago has been a really solid first shoe for me, too. They stretch, but not too much. I wouldn't call it particularly aggressive or downturned. They fit better on my feet than the Tarantulace, but that's going to be a personal preference thing.

e: Also the double-takes from the dye are hilarious every time.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Meatbag Esq. posted:

Planet granite had a climbing comp a couple weeks ago. After a few climbs I got bored of waiting in lines and busted out my camera. 600 photos later....

These were about 100 of the better ones.

https://www.dropbox.com/l/2VTkUzzpHKFfaqgmxBufir

Check out the bat hang in the men's finals route.
Looks fun as hell. What's the deal with what looks like a tandem climb? I've never seen that: you have to hold onto your partner's arm at all times?

Thanks for the pictures.

e: vvvv Goddamn that's cool.

Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 17:51 on May 4, 2015

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Finally getting comfortable with a good number of the v3s currently set at my gym. Even snagged a crimpy slab v4 that was pretty fun. And then, for some reason, there are v2s around that I just. can't. get. :argh:

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Fatkraken posted:

Going to watch the finals of some bouldering event in Sheffield tomorrow. I've only been climbing (indoor top roping) a few months so I'm excited to see how the high level dudes do it and marvel at their skills.
Have fun! That sounds great, I'd love to go see something like that.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


I might throw in antagonist exercises because I have a tendency to end up going to the gym too frequently and injuring my elbows. They won't directly help you be a better climber, but they'll prevent you from having to take time off to recover.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


I'm going bouldering outside for the first time tomorrow. Anything I need to know that's different from gym climbing?

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Tons of fun, nobody died. Only had one spotter so didn't get many pictures, but I'm trying to go back next weekend with more people. We ended up doing a fair few highballs which was an interesting change from gym climbing. Good poo poo. Thanks for the advice.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


spwrozek posted:

How high were the highballs?
Estimating the tallest (with a nasty landing) was 18ish? feet, maybe a bit lower, but with a great crack near the top. Definitely felt taller than my gym's 15' slab wall, but that could easily have been the top-out and landing situation.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Wooooo shoe chat! I'm looking to upgrade my nagos 41.5. Thing is, every single shoe I tried on has a large pressure point/hot spot on the medial side of my big toe on the first knuckle. It's been so long since I bought my nagos that I really don't remember if they had it and I just stretched them out. I tried solutions, futuras, shamans, katanas, vapor vs, miuras, and they all had it to some extent. The katanas were the most comfortable, and weirdly the 41 vapors didn't have the toe issue but instead were really tight on the lateral side. The 41.5s did, though. How much is that going to stretch out? Should I just grab some katanas and see if it goes? And it seems like the katanas will stretch more than the nagos (which already stretched a bit too much for me), anyone compared them?

Or, does anyone else have that hotspot and find a shoe that worked?

E: vapor v and katana were the least pressure-pointy there, and I am wanting a more aggressive shoe than the nago.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Cool, thanks, I'll suck it up. Should I expect the nago and katana to stretch about the same as each other?

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Well, went ahead and got some scarpa vapor v's. Time to break these suckers in I guess!

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Goddamn, I have no stamina. Right now I'm climbing v2/v3 pretty regularly, but burning out fast on 5.10c routes because I just get exhausted so quickly. Part of it is I know that my footwork blows and I'm trying to improve that, but any decent ways to improve my stamina outside of a gym? I can't toprope very often or I'd just so more of that. I know to downclimb as much as possible, but my problem is more that I can't climb too much so I'm looking for things to do away from the wall/rock.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


spwrozek posted:

Sent my first 12a this morning! Took 6 attempts. Very happy!

Fly Low 5.12a
Nice!

I've mostly been a bouldering gym rat with some top-rope, but in the last year I've been trying to boulder outside as often as possible and finally decided to go roped climbing outside, so a friend took a few of us and taught us how to lead-climb. That poo poo is fun. Did a 5.8 at Breakneck in SWPA and felt pretty comfortable with all of the lead stuff, including cleaning the draws, but I definitely need to get better at clipping in smoothly. I really want to get out leading/roping again. Bouldering is great, but drat do you get a nice feeling of accomplishment looking down from the top of something. Is it usual to drop several grades from gym to outside and toprope to lead? I'd been stretching to 5.11c and v3/4s inside, but that 5.8 gave me a few rough spots, including climbing up higher to be able to clean it. But then, some of the outside V1s give me issues too, so I was putting it down to the differences in gym and rock.

And where do I start with gear?

e: Don't worry, I'm not about to start leading without more experienced people around for awhile, I definitely need more practice with it and with belaying, too.

Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Oct 17, 2016

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Sharks Eat Bear posted:

Never been, but you might want to look into Cooper's Rock, WV and Boone, NC. Not as big as HP40 or LRC, but may be sufficient and certainly an easier drive from NE.
I'm still pretty new to climbing, but Coopers is fantastic bouldering. Not sure I'd call it southeast US since its basically in Morgantown, WV, but its definitely out of NE.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


So if I have Dyneema cord, can I make a decent anchor by girth hitching two carabineers and then girth hitching it to my tie-in loops? I am definitely not going to climb above it, but I want something to use for setting up to rappel off. I'm still only doing single pitch climbs and will be for awhile. Am I missing something?

E:. Vvv. No reason I need to hitch the biners I guess. Thanks.

Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Nov 26, 2016

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


So I'm going to my first bouldering comp tomorrow and have no idea what to expect. There's almost no info on it on the website, I don't know the wall too well, and I have no idea what the skill level there is. Any help or tips or things to look for would be awesome! I'm climbing at a v3/4 grade with some long projected v5s if that helps at all.

E:. I have watched a few highlights/clips from some of the IFSC world cups so it's not entirely unknown to me but it might as well be.

Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Feb 10, 2017

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


I honestly have no idea. Given that there's no information about it, I'd guess its probably the redpoint because otherwise they'd be using it as a selling point. Basic gist of that is that each climb is worth a certain number of points based on difficulty, so try to warm up on easy ones and then peak at the highest level I can send, then? Makes sense, I just need to remember to actually do that when I see some sweet new problems. Thanks!

e: Redpoint, as expected, and goddamn I figured it'd be a chill competition but that was ridiculous. I'm used to fencing tournaments and trackmeets so having everything be so honor-system was a little weird at first. Did...alright. I paced fairly well for most of it except for when I threw myself at one that was easier than I was making it and ended up getting really pumped earlier than I'd thought. Difficulty was fine, I was just going about it really poorly. Had a lot of fun, would do again. Thanks again for the tips.

Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Feb 12, 2017

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


More shoe-chat! I'm currently climbing in Katanas and while they're not bad, they're small over the big toe and somewhat wide in the heel. I can deal with it pretty easily now that they're broken in, but I'm getting semi-close to needing to replace them and I wouldn't mind ordering some new shoes either. Anything roughly equivalent to the Katana in the Tenaya line?

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Bud Manstrong posted:

Try the Iati. It feels almost as precise as the Oasi, but it edges almost as well as a Miura. The Tarifa is also a good shoe, but definitely try it, as it's pretty downturned. I love the Oasi, but it's a much more sensitive, precise shoe that won't be nearly as stiff feeling as the Katana.
Thanks. I suppose I'll start spamming backcountry with shoe orders to eventually return. The lack of any decent brick/mortar place within 200m is such a pain.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Anyone been to the New River mid-May? How're the conditions/weather/crowds usually? I'm trying to go on a weekend but not Memorial Day.

e: It'd be my first time there too. I've only lead outside in smaller places near Pittsburgh so that'd be my first "big" area.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Well, I just added something to my list for when I finally get out to Seattle. drat, that looks pretty.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


So I'm still there, but I'm at the New for the first time ever and goddaaaamn is it great.

e: I had to bail on my first outdoor 5.10a (The Good Book) about halfway up since I was really pumped by the time I'd gotten on it, which I regret. The three routes I really wanted to hit there (Geisha Girl, Mrs Fields' Follies, and Crescendo) were packed full of people and we couldn't wait around, so I'll definitely be coming back. And since so many routes in the area are just barely outside of my reach right now, I'm incredibly motivated to keep practicing and head back later. Great experience.

Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 18:18 on May 21, 2017

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Even within manufacturers there can be huge variation. Absolutely try on shoes or be prepared to buy and return a ton of them.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Anyone been sport climbing in Iceland?

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


That is super cool.

Anyone climbed in Nashville? I'm down here for a week for school and looking for a place, and might be moving down here in late December. The closest indoor place to where I'm staying right now is Climb Nashville West, is it decent?

And more long-term, what's the outdoor sport and bouldering scene like?

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Sound_man posted:

Climb West is a great gym. One of my top 5 in North America. The closest sport climbing to Nashville is King's Bluff which is about 45 minutes west of town. The approach is easy, but the routes are pretty short (40 feet) and the easier ones (5.6-5.8) are rather polished.

People day trip to Obed, Foster Falls and Twall from Nashville Red River Goge isn't too far away but far enough you'll want to spend the night. I'm out of town until the 16th but if you are still around let me know and lets go to the gym.

Cool, thanks. I checked the gym out yesterday and had a good time. Unfortunately my flight out is early Fri so I can't go again this trip, but I'll be around two more times this semester. And if I move down here in late dec I'll be up for outdoor climbing whenever I can.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


enraged_camel posted:

Yeah, at this gym purple problems cover a range of v2 through v4 and there are definitely easier purples so I assumed it's a v3. I don't actually care though to be honest. I just wanna get gud.
I hate this poo poo at lower grades. One of the gyms in my area groups v0-v2 together and that's just a ridiculous range for beginners.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


crazycello posted:

Gym bouldering grades are always easier because being unable to do anything other than v0 isn't super fun for people who don't take climbing seriously. It is not a big deal.
Hell, just having "foot goes here" markers go a long way towards making everything a lot easier, especially trusting how well your feet will hold you.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Rime posted:

But...everything is a foothold...

The blank wall can be a foothold...

:confused:

Yes, and some footholds are better than others, and having the (very likely) best footholds highlighted and visually distinct is going to make it generally easier than climbing outdoors especially at lower grades. I'm not sure why you read anything else into that.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Pricy as gently caress but I love my Prana Zions, both pants and shorts. I've gotten some good discounts on Steepandcheap before on them, which helps cut down the guilt on spending that much money.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


https://www.amazon.com/prAna-Mens-S...etch+zion+pants and https://www.amazon.com/prAna-Stretc...tch+zion+shorts I haven't tried the convertible ones but I suspect the zipper would annoy me.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Anecdotally, I'd add push-ups because otherwise I get tennis elbow something loving fierce if I climb more than once every two days while I'm still getting back into things. After awhile I can climb daily, but its really easy for me to overdo it without some kind of counter-balance.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


I always got tennis elbow whenever I'd climb daily after a long break.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Hot Diggity! posted:

What do y'all do for supplemental exercise? Looking to add to my regimine
Yoga, bike, run. General exercise poo poo. I suppose swimming would probably be pretty good cross-training.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Mokelumne Trekka posted:

Me and someone else have been teaching ourselves lead climbing at the gym. Bad idea. A mixture of arrogance and stupidity led me to believe it is simple. Needless to say we pissed off some employees after several errors. Feeling discouraged but I suppose most take classes.
What kind of sketchy gym lets you climb lead without checking that you have any idea what you're doing?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply