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Does anyone have suggestions for climbing podcasts distributed via RSS that are high quality? I don't want to have to go to a website to access them. Thanks much.
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Dec 19, 2018 18:29
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Climbing is a blast, and also has an infinite amount of growth potential; it never gets dull. Glad to have you as a part of the community!
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Dec 25, 2018 01:20
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crazycello posted:I'm pretty sure they're already damaged in tendonitis, usually because of overuse and imbalance between flexors and extensors (climbers are more prone to medial epicondylitis because that's where your finger flexors attach too). Doing very light eccentric exercises are possibly beneficial but most people are just going to gently caress up their tendons more by downclimbing. I agree with this. Rice bucket, reverse curls, the hammer or band pronation exercise, all will be more effective at treating the tendonitis referenced earlier. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jan 10, 2019 |
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Jan 5, 2019 01:27
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:I took a break from climbing over the holidays; after a two and a half week hiatus I BOMBED at the gym. I felt clumsy, I back-clipped, I barely had any strength to make it up, and burned out quickly. Anecdotally for me, its depended on where the length of years in my climbing life. Early on I would experience what you have; nowadays after more than two weeks off I come back with strength, but the endurance is awful.
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Jan 8, 2019 04:08
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gamera009 posted:I was a solid V4/5 climber at 195. No it's not. There are two ways to hold tiny things: stronger tendons or reduced weight. If you have weight to lose, one of those things is a lot easier to achieve than the other I lost 5 lbs over winter, and I jumped 1.5 grades overnight
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Jan 18, 2019 15:48
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enraged_camel posted:The reason it's a mystery is because when you lose weight, you don't lose just fat tissue, you also lose muscle tissue. How much of each you lose, and from what part of your body, depends on a lot of factors, and can be difficult to optimize if not planned correctly. So you can easily find yourself in a situation where you lose weight and your performance (in any sport, not just climbing) suffers. That can be almost completely negated by strength training during controlled weight loss, maintaining protein intake. I cant imagine a scenario where healthy weight loss is happening while also being at a caloric deficit so high that someone accidentally loses muscle, unless they are simply not doing any weight training. Supplemental weight training is still recommended for climbers, and metabolically is a huge asset to speeding up weight loss. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Jan 22, 2019 |
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Jan 22, 2019 14:56
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+1 for focusing on climbing only at slightly submaximal intensity with max volume for your level/climbing experience
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Jan 31, 2019 00:25
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It is if you're climbing near your max. If you're doing submax stuff a few of those days, then probably not an issue.
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Feb 15, 2019 18:49
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Where are the best spots to fit shoes in person? REI blows, and I want to avoid amazon Let's say northwest U.S.
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Feb 21, 2019 04:36
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Suicide Watch posted:Why does REI blow? Sure everything is MSRP, but you can buy the shoes, try them at the gym/outdoors, decide you don't like them, and then return them if they don't work, or if you find a better deal... REI pretty much only carries a few played out sportivas now. Their stock is awful.
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Feb 21, 2019 16:18
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:your local outdoor/climbing store, without knowing exactly where you live its hard to give recommendations. Yeah, same conclusion I came to. How about Portland?
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Feb 21, 2019 16:19
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Next Adventure, Mountain Shop, US Outdoor Store are my go-tos, in that order which is mostly based on proximity to my house. OMC used to be good but I don't know what their in store presence is like these days, they shifted to online retail focus a while ago. Climb Max similar story, haven't been to their new shop but used to be a small but knowledgeable store. I live in AZ. I was asking for my friend who is in Portland, I'll pass on the spots, thanks for the suggestions. At this point I know what brands/models I like, I can't imagine asking anyone at a store or gym for shoe fittings ever again. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 22, 2019 04:59
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enraged_camel posted:My point is that I disagree with your point. To each their own. E: i agree that there is certainly more value to be had by climbers that have less experience in focusing on climbing statically. That being said, dynamic but precise movement is a necessity for learning how to become a better overall climber, and should also be trained periodically Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 22, 2019 05:09
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Are straight leg deadlifts considered as difficult as regular deadlifts for those with poor form? Those require much less 'proper' form than regular deadlifts, and cover all the same muscle groups. Personally I haven't done a regular deadlift in years, and I'm much happier and climbing stronger than ever. Squat sets of 5-3-1 are also good for posterior chain, for those who dont have poor form.
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Feb 28, 2019 00:40
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I can't recommend Eric hurst's rock climber's exercise guide enough, for every single person in here. Its like $20, and is the best investment you can make. It contains a wealth of exercises with frequency, load, and intensity for every conceivable scenario, including general fitness, climbing specific, nutrition, and detailed processes for injury recovery of all sorts. Specifically for the elbow epicondylitis poster: There is a workout where you take sledge hammer or resistance band, hold it by the handle sitting down, and rotate your hand from palm up to palm down (same motion you'd make flipping a pancake). Reverse curls will also help E: Rock Climber's training manual comes in at second place IMO, but delves more into scientific research and theory. Still good, but doesn't get down to the dirty exercise details as quickly or effectively Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Mar 8, 2019 |
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Mar 8, 2019 15:51
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crazycello posted:On the other hand he wrote this and... gently caress that What's wrong with it?
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Mar 8, 2019 23:12
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I dont disagree with what you said, but there are very specific times and places for it. If someone can maintain high levels of motivation while constantly failing, but are still somewhat close on something that's hard then that can be a viable option. I personally dont think most people can do that. In your own example, it took the person years to send their thing. But you didn't mention that the ancillary training that probably happened in that time? Nor if he was only climbing that thing every day (probably not?) His approach is just saying the same thing, and really there are so many climbs in this world that narrowly focusing on one climb is certainly taking away from your chance to climb all those other great things, while still getting stronger to send the one project. And really, unless it's a precision dyno or something, it's unlikely you'll get stronger to do the one or two moves shutting you down w/o training in other ways for it. Tldr; I agree with Hurst. If we were talking about bouldering, I would agree with you
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Mar 9, 2019 17:34
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Keep in mind that feet can shrink over time too, to accommodate smaller shoes . . . If you're willing to put up with pain for a while. I have a pair of scarpas that were absolutely too small for me when I bought them, I couldn't even walk with them on at all. Over time, my feet fit into them better, and now they are one of my best pairs of shoes. Not in small part due to the fact that they are smaller (and can grab onto smaller holds) than any other pairs I have. Synthetic upper, so no shoe stretch
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Mar 24, 2019 15:37
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Betazoid posted:For real? I'm sure the shoes just stretched out. Or is that the joke? Idk, totally anecdotal, but my shoe size has definitely shrunk since climbing Some other people I know have said the same I mean old people shrink too, and Chinese foot binding is a thing . . . But physiologically I have no idea what the structural change would involve 
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Mar 25, 2019 01:21
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gohuskies posted:For a new climber looking to get stronger, bouldering is the way to go. You can get stronger fingers by having to grab small holds and work on technique/skills at the same time. He's already bouldering. I agree with sharks eat bear. Hang boarding can be useful, but you will have to trade short term loss of climbing time for long term strength gain. You also won't see immediate strength gains from hangboarding, since tendons rebuild very slowly. Patience is a necessity.
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Apr 6, 2019 01:22
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enraged_camel posted:Do you think that newbie gymnasts start their training by attempting iron crosses? No, because that would be loving stupid. Even if they have strong muscles, their joints and tendons won't be ready for the sheer amount of stress the exercise requires. Trollolol? 0 reading comprehension. Seriously this is some head in the sand poo poo. I've seen some bad hot takes, this is up there.
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Apr 8, 2019 05:25
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enraged_camel posted:Whatever you say. Nm, not worth it. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Apr 8, 2019 |
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Apr 8, 2019 14:57
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Sab669 posted:Gym opened last Saturday. I went then, Sunday, Tuesday, and last night. Definitely over did myself, but holy poo poo climbing is like all I've been able to think about since that first experience. Rest days are the worst It's a drug. The best kind.
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Apr 20, 2019 17:43
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Climbing outside is very different than climbing inside. Training inside can ease the transition to climbing outside, but nothing improves proficiency in climbing outside more than climbing outside. Climbing proficiency also increases very slowly. A year isn't very long, but it sounds like you have a good frequency going, and I'm sure you'll see improvement if you stay disciplined. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Apr 22, 2019 |
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Apr 22, 2019 04:26
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prom candy posted:Let's say I do have climber's elbow and I bought a flex bar and am doing the exercises that you guys were nice enough to recommended, how do I know when I'm ready to climb again? Should I be completely pain free in that area before I go? Should I do some pull ups or something at home so I don't burn the $25 day rate just to find out I'm still injured? How often do you feel pain in the area? Is it sharp, dull? Really you'll have to make the judgment call, but if its dull and manageable, without sharp pain, you can climb. If doing climbing movements brings significant pain or a sensation that it will get worse, don't.
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Apr 24, 2019 05:36
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KingColliwog posted:Coming from 15 years of judo and bjj with strength training focused on not building too much mass was a pretty awesome starting platform. Also my gym grades might just be softer than yours. Make sure you're not gaining leg mass in the process. Maintaining strength is good, but any added leg mass is detrimental.
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May 13, 2019 01:14
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Electoral Surgery posted:I am on the tail end of this program. I don't know if it helped my finger get better faster, but at least it's something to do. +1 for that bd rehab post
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May 16, 2019 04:07
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Sab669 posted:Yea I try to talk to people, someone did give me some really good advice last night that made 1 problem go from "What the gently caress is this" to "Oh, that makes sense - I think I'll get it in a week or two". Unfortunately it seems like everyone is either crazy good and doing much harder stuff, or just starting out doing 1's and 2's If you're comfortable with it, you could post video of you trying to climb something and we could give advice based on what we see
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May 23, 2019 01:18
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Sab669 posted:
They can probably help with improving extender strength (and thereby increasing your resiliency to injury), but probably unlikely to improve forearm strength
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May 24, 2019 01:54
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rest his guts posted:4x4s are the go-to for 'power endurance' training but might not be the most efficacious as far as bouldering fitness is concerned. I think people like them because they feel pumped after. Is this post aimed at new climbers? If so I would agree, otherwise I'd have to completely disagree. rest his guts posted:4x4s are the go-to for 'power endurance' training but might not be the most efficacious as far as bouldering fitness is concerned. I think people like them because they feel pumped after. Who is this post aimed at? If its climbers that have been climbing < 2 years or have bad technique, I would tend to agree that they shouldn't be doing specific training, but dismissing all training. . .  The point of hangboarding isnt only that the load can be controlled, it's that specific angles that stress pulleys can be replicated consistently. That is how finger strength for different hold angles is built. Losing weight and improving footwork will most likely help 90% of people, but they are pieces to work on and developing finger strength can be done outside of those things. I basically disagree with everything you said.
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May 30, 2019 20:54
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Ubiquitus posted:Is this post aimed at new climbers? If so I would agree, otherwise I'd have to completely disagree.
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May 30, 2019 20:58
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Sab669 posted:I'd love any input at all From the video, it looks like your feet are too high. Keep your left foot lower by one or two holds, and flag your right foot to the right, then move your right hand up to the next hold. You should feel your core engage to make that move, as a pose to scrunching your legs up
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Jun 1, 2019 09:46
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I've talked to a few people, watched a few people do it and while I watch them I'm like, "Oh I get that" and then get I on the wall and it's just 
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I tend to 90% boulder indoor and outdoors. That other 10% of the year I'll sport climbing or top rope, but I really dislike having to carry around a lot of climbing gear, which makes other climbing hard for me. Shoe talk: I think it's a good idea to try sport climbing first. Try finding someone to top rope with via a Facebook group, and if you like it, that will dictate the shoes you end up with. Bouldering shoes are generally much more aggressive than sport climbing shoes, but if you choose to climb outside, the rocks nearby should probably play a part in what shoes you buy. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Jun 11, 2019 |
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Jun 11, 2019 23:36
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rest his guts posted:Disagree. Big Pinch Pinchin at 45 was put up by a pro at v7, is at least v6 but gets an easy v5. Many of the 3s feel harder than 6s which I guess is just like outside tho. Strong climbers love sandbagging each other it’s like the ultimate narcicism Every problem set by Will Anglin feels at least 2 grades harder than what it gets. The grading is really sandbagged and off most of the time, Its fuckin soul crushing, and it makes me feel like tiny tim everytime  . It is great though, it'll turn anyone into a mini version of d woods, I've never seen a method of training that preps people for getting on the send train outside like the tension board.
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Jun 15, 2019 05:34
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I'm curious how many people in here have tried the tension board? Every time I switch between plastic/the t board, I'm acutely aware of my fingers telling me that plastic is bad for them.
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Jun 23, 2019 09:43
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rest his guts posted:I think the Tboard is friendly on the skin but really nasty on the fingers. The one at my gym used to be stuck at 45 and I think feet cutting may have been more common than it would be at a less severe angle, though. There's a really cool problem called Marco Pogo where the crux is literally just a pogo into a painful crimp, and I feel like there's a lot of problems that really emphasize contact strength and punish your tendons. I agree with you, but I meant from a long term perspective. Over time, is the t board going to generally induce more or less finger injury than plastic? Say the wooden holds were used everywhere throughout the gym, and in another gym the tensions holds were used. Which gym would have a higher rate of dinger injury? If everything else were constant. I'm inclined to say the gym with the tension holds would cause less injury. Of course they are not optimal to be used outside the board, but assuming there were different hold types using wood holds. I believe due to the density of the wood (or some other factor I've been unable to isolate), the wood holds will cause less injury. Unfortunately this is only my anecdotal sense, as my fingers feel more tweaked by the plastic holds my gym uses, and maybe those are just old and made at angles that stress the tendons with force in directions that cause higher rates of injury.
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Jun 23, 2019 16:23
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rest his guts posted:Sounds like he doesn't rope climb. I don't really either, but if I were you I'd change my sessions in the gym to limit bouldering to keep up my power (if I am trying to climb anything harder than 5.10, which, despite what you can boulder, will be challenging without good endurance) then throw in some 4x4s and potentially some 20-50 move circuits on the system wall to cap it off. If someone had a lot of skill in leading/rope climbing, maybe this would make sense. That person should rope climb, so they're not completely unprepared.
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Jun 26, 2019 21:02
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Do you have a radar app? I like storm or NOAA weather, you can even plug in long/lat to get the specific area you need to see what happened
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Jul 1, 2019 15:47
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Heading to smith rock in a few days . . . Any suggestions for sport stuff that won't be swamped but is still good quality?
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Jul 2, 2019 07:23
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spwrozek posted:Yup... Bouldering is the worst Reductive, at best. The gym clearly did not having proper controls in place to educate new climbers.
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Jul 10, 2019 18:03
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