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I would check Facebook climbing groups first. Also I think Joe’s is gonna be incredibly hot right now?
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May 16, 2022 15:40
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Sab669 posted:
Nice sounds like a dope trip! I felt like The angler is pretty sandbagged these days, I’m sure at some point it was v2 or 3 but it definitely didn’t feel like that to me. Were you starting a few moves in (not all the way to the right side of that face)? There’s a six that starts all the way to the right climbing through the angler that’s a slab master’s dream, the angler is a few feet left of it
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May 22, 2022 22:48
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I’m a pretty big proponent of lattice’s data based approach, they’re doing a climbing survey if y’all are interested https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSelNXpdAbdHBQ7FddBnxRQNf2xHDEabdHgvjrLoQaiDVJ73WA/viewform
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Jun 24, 2022 23:46
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Just went to turtle lake and sailing hawks in Durango this past week, what a great place to climb
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Jul 10, 2022 21:29
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If you want to do some “light” reading, will anglin’s blog post on the tension climbing site is good
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Jul 18, 2022 06:00
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https://www.tensionclimbing.com/hangboarding-a-way/
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Jul 18, 2022 17:07
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the takeaway for hangboarding generally is: 1.) do a max strength test first. You want to be completely rested for this, you can use the crimpd app for a full step by step on how to work up to it and do it, check their finger strength section. You’ll probably need a pulley system and weights to add/remove weight. 2.) determine your goals - if you just want to get stronger finger strength for the long run or you have a training period, a good protocol is repeaters (6 sets, 3 reps of 7 seconds on 3 seconds off. Rest 1 minute between sets) at 70% of your max from step 1. Structuring the hangboarding in your weekly schedule is the tricky part, as well as deciding what the smallest edge you can reliably hold with at least some added weight. 3.) if your goal is to improve performance for upcoming climbing, you want to do max hangs. This is ideal if you have at least 1 month before your climbing - you can do anywhere from 85% max to 95% max. The protocol would be 6 sets of 1 rep, 7s per rep. 3 minutes of rest between sets. You want to be well rested for protocol listed in 3, 2 is more flexible. generally If you’ve been climbing for under a year, hangboarding is probably not a good use of your time. As stated lattice’s training plans are very good, and All of their YouTube content on hangboarding is also good. Hooper’s beta is also great: https://youtu.be/Mkjmto4bymY https://youtu.be/yh-qjPU5YU0 https://youtu.be/jb9pSt6A0MU Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jul 18, 2022 |
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Jul 18, 2022 18:42
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Eh I don’t remember him saying people shouldn’t hangboard prior to climbing for two years, but obviously that wouldn’t apply to every situation. For 90-95% of climbers that’s worth its weight in gold
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Jul 24, 2022 03:33
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Two things I have to share: stretching your hamstring actually improves calf engagement, and therefore heel hooking engagement. Building heelhooking/leg/hip flexibility for bouldering: https://youtu.be/3rwc6UPRzRo
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Sep 14, 2022 23:41
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If you have a bar at home things like leg raises /windshield wipers/ working into front raises are very applicable
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Sep 28, 2022 00:48
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Any Chicago goons? Can anyone recommend me a gym for bouldering near downtown?
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Nov 4, 2022 21:18
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Sab669 posted:Do you guys have any sort of advice on building endurance for someone looking to get into lead climbing? It sucks, but ARCing is hands down the best way to build endurance. Find an auto belay and go to town. Power endurance is separate, and 4x4s or 6x3s on a board or systems wall is the way to go.
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Dec 15, 2022 19:22
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gohuskies posted:IMO, the only situation where it makes sense to pretend to be leading while still on a loose top rope is learning to place trad. That's more involved than just clipping bolts. Anybody learning to lead sport should just go do it. I agree with this perspective too, but everyone is different. For me the hard part about leading is being run out - that’s whenI find it more difficult to clip efficiently. The only way to practice the often weird and unideal positions you’re in when clipping is to lead
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Dec 18, 2022 20:10
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Drago LVs are my go to outdoor shoe, and indoor shoe for boards. I’ve heard good things about the zenist, but I think they are meant for sport?
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Dec 29, 2022 22:28
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Generally it’s the difference between trying to stand on small edges (hard midsole, sport climbing) vs. a soft midsole (more flexibility, easier to use your foot like a claw, steepness). That said you can absolutely find overhung sport climbs, and vert boulders. Rock type near you will also play a difference, I generally prefer a hard toe box/midsole for granite, and softer shoes for limestone/sandstone.
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Dec 29, 2022 23:10
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interrodactyl posted:Anyone have recommendations for must do boulder problems at Red Rock Canyon? Anything up to V8. I've already done The Pearl, Jones'n, and Pork Chop from a quick trip to Kraft. Monkey traverse: starts below hyper glide and goes right Bubble butt The wave There’s also a good roof if you go almost directly towards the mountain from monkey Boulder (technically gateway canyon) Avian flu and trytophan
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Dec 30, 2022 16:35
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Just lol if you can’t tell if someone finished a climb or not. You can pretty easily tell if matching is hard at the end of the climb - sounds like trolling to me
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Jan 27, 2023 15:34
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Bread Set Jettison posted:1) I got the dyno. It was a BIG BOY dyno and Im very proud of myself! Rest of the climb was ez. Everyone’s feet are different. I recommend trying a bunch of shoes on and seeing what you like. REI’s selection varies massively by store, shipping from Amazon or Zappos is usually free
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Feb 3, 2023 23:20
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Mons Hubris posted:Anybody watch The Climb on HBO Max? It’s mostly good for looking at beautiful Catalonian terrain and making Chris Sharma seem like a slightly weird guy but if you’re into Reel Rock or anything like that, it’s decent. I tried! I really did. I wish they would have gotten some people with actual shots of being pro in the long term, I felt like all the casting choices were made purely for dramatic reasons. Makes sense for a tv show, but it made me sad that the no one cast had a chance to use the win as a spring board for an actual pro future
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Feb 4, 2023 06:07
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Baddog posted:Oh poo poo, climbing thread! Opinion on home exercises past hangboard and pullups? I've been eyeballing some pinch blocks. Not sure need much more than the 20 dollar ones off Amazon ... I mean, it's a sanded piece of wood with a pin through it. How old is your kid, how long has climbing been happening, is coaching being received from an on-site coach?
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Feb 21, 2023 16:49
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Baddog posted:11, and for six or seven years now. In preschool he climbed up a full sized basketball hoop (along with everything else he could get on top of), and I figured I should get him into a gym and learn how to fall, from someone who was good at it. Seriously just let him climb more. Moon boards can be had for pretty cheap! Or like a bouldering pad or rope/gear could be good things, if he has friends that can go with him. If you really want to switch it up maybe gymnastics? Getting kids exposure to different sports usually has many benefits.
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Feb 22, 2023 06:28
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Baddog posted:That mini moon looks pretty decent? The standard is just over 10 feet at 40 degrees, so drat, don't think it would fit. 40 is plenty steep, I wouldn’t do more unless it was absolutely necessary
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Feb 23, 2023 02:13
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The weather has been garbage this season. I live in the SW cuz I have like 5-7 really good areas I can hit fairly easily, and almost every other weekend has been rain or snow
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Mar 24, 2023 04:53
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Slow News Day posted:My buddies and I are doing a Colorado trip this summer, and are trying to decide between Salida and Durango. I've been to Salida before and am somewhat familiar with the climbing options in the area, but not Durango. Has anyone here climbed there? What is it like? I’ve only bouldered in Durango, but sailing hawks was fun, and has some very quality sandstone. It’s also shaded for parts of the day, so you can easily get some good half days in the morning or evening. Turtle lake will be too hot. Didn’t try anything else while I was there
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Apr 28, 2023 22:57
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Rental shoes are awful, it’s a good investment to buy some shoes of your own if you’re climbing more than twice a month, but it’s not worth buying the $200 pairs yet. I would recommend trying on a bunch at your gym and/or a REI and making a choice based on fit/feel. Glad you found climbing and welcome to never being bored again (when you’re climbing)! I’ve never had to fit a kid for shoes, but I imagine they grow so quick that cheaper ones should be fine . . . Personally that might even be the one scenario I’d consider buying them used? Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 17:29 on May 8, 2023 |
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May 8, 2023 17:26
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Butora has wide versions of their shoes
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May 9, 2023 14:36
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Strength training can act as a significant part of aging healthily
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Jun 5, 2023 04:55
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Sab669 posted:I went once or twice earlier this season but I feel "burnt out" on my local crag. There just aren't that many problems that really call to me, and I rarely have people to climb with so only having 2 stationary crash pads makes it much less compelling. The SW is where it’s at for all-year climbing (and especially bouldering)
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Jul 4, 2023 03:05
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It’s hard to tease out a specific outcome from a dataset (especially small ones)when there’s so many different input variables (noise). Yes it could have been the hangboard protocol, but it could have also been the increased volume of your climbing driving tendon adaptation. Generally if you’re increasing the volume of your hangboarding from anything to nothing or (in Emil’s case) from probably once a day to twice a day, strength gains will inevitably follow on a long term horizon. I don’t think that makes his protocol “good” or “optimal” for everyone, but it’s definitely a tool in the box. Self coached climbers may or may not have the objectivity to figure that out on their own. For you, since you’re going from no previous hangboarding to hangboarding, you should see a drastic gain in finger strength, period. It wouldn’t have mattered what the protocol was. TLDR; vids are meant to get views, doesn’t mean it’s best for you - talk to a coach if you’re really trying to optimize your training. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Jul 16, 2023 |
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Jul 15, 2023 06:12
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alnilam posted:Let's not set expectations too high here Seriously I know people climbing double digits that are under that bar Avoiding injuries is mostly about listening to your body - preventing injuries is about doing antagonist work and strengthening body parts. A good benchmark is to dedicate 1/3 of the total time you spend climbing to antagonist work
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Jul 24, 2023 01:03
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My girlfriend and I had been climbing for years - maybe 5? She tied in indoors and started climbing, I was belaying. She got up to maybe 20ft? And missed a move . . . Only to fall straight to the ground. Neither of us had checked that she was actually roped
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Aug 15, 2023 20:11
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Xyven posted:Finished building my home wall on Christmas, just waiting on crash pads and it'll be strictly better than climbing at my current gym. 
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Dec 29, 2023 00:22
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Bread Set Jettison posted:Recently I’ve been having pain/irritation on my toes, which I assume is related to climbing shoes. There’s no sign of athletes foot, just my middle 2-3 toes feel almost raw. There’s MAYBE some redness but not really swelling. It’s been off and on for a week, and I can’t find anything about it. It’s probably just tight shoes scraping on your curled toes. I have huge calluses on some toes now where the shoes have aggravated the skin constantly - you could tape them while climbing?
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Jan 27, 2024 05:48
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Can’t remember a single instance seeing me or someone else inside flag in the gym or outside in 10 years of climbing
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Feb 9, 2024 15:42
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Slimy Hog posted:I've been ice climbing 2x and each time I wake up with soreness in my groin, centered on my inner-thigh/hip area. Anyone has anyone else experienced this? It doesn't happen rock climbing Sounds like you need to do more Copenhagen planks
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Mar 4, 2024 20:14
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:why the hell won't my fingers get any stronger? ive been climbing for about 18 months now. in that time, my dead hang on a 20 mm edge basically hasnt improved. i remember testing at like ~3 or 4 months as a curiosity. i climb regularly 3 times a week. i started hangboarding about 6 months ago to try to improve finger strength as id noticed after testing again that my brother, who started around the same time as me and tested the same at that 3-4 month mark, had gotten waaaaay stronger in his hangs and also was climbing way harder grades than me, surpassed by a fair bit. i have another friend who started about a month before me, and same story. i hangboarded for about 2 months, saw basically no improvement, then stopped altogether for a surgery that took ~6 weeks to recover from. it was an axial lymph node excision so it understandably affected my overhead hang/pull Do you Boulder? It’s really unlikely finger strength is the limiting factor for you, it’s most likely a lack of technique. I would suggest getting a training plan or a coach.
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Mar 17, 2024 07:20
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:no vids of myself climbing until literally just yesterday when i climbed outside. my phone was too poo poo to take video for a long time. As someone else mentioned - being head route setter doesn’t mean poo poo for understanding physiology or how to make a climber better. Finger strength has a very low likelihood of being the limiting factor at 5.11. I would suggest getting a coach, they will be able to give be you the best targeted, personalized training for maximizing improvement and overcoming your plateau. improving your technique /endurance on the wall should easily see you to 5.12 - if you can’t afford a coach get a training plan from a reputable coaching company - power company, lattice, or a myriad of others out there. If you can’t, then mix in a day of limit bouldering, and a day of doing sport laps , Keeping 1x/week of max hangs, one day of trying to max routes. Then once ~ 4-6 weeks is up, take a deload and mix up the routine Hangboarding 3x a week is not what any coach would prescribe for you Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Mar 18, 2024 |
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Mar 18, 2024 05:52
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Verviticus posted:hangboarding can be free with a gym membership. i dont think coaches are free. it takes a long time to benefit from tendon hypertrophy. why discourage someone from starting it if they're interested? I’m not saying don’t hangboard, I’m just saying 3x a week is overkill for almost anyone except maybe Alex honnold
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Mar 21, 2024 06:13
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:i agree, but it's not an option, as i mentioned, which is why i hangboard. i'd rather not hangboard at all Oh wow, totally glossed over the having kids part. Can you build a home wall? Get the kids into climbing? Skipping climbing every other week is 100% the limiting factor here - consistency is king for gains
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Mar 22, 2024 07:35
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