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Sharks Eat Bear posted:That's an unduly short-sighted view IMO. Forearms might be small muscles relative to glutes and shoulders and so forth, and it may be harder to achieve meaningful hypertrophy, but if you want to make gains in finger strength over the long-term, you're going to need to build some new muscle and not just recruit whatever muscle you have today. If you're losing weight specifically for climbing, you need to shift thigh and glute muscle mass too. Long term finger strength gains are to be found in increasing the strength of the signal your nervous system sends. This is why a max-hang protocol is the best way to increase finger strength, rather than a repeater protocol which would produce far more hypertrophy in the forearm.
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Nov 15, 2018 18:52
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:What? This is off base. Yes recruitment is important and max hangs > repeaters for that purpose, but long term gains absolutely require hypertrophy as well as recruitment. You can argue that hyp can be achieved without needing to hangboard, but that’s true for recruitment as well. Strong climbers’ forearms do not look like normal people’s forearms, and that’s not just because of neuromuscular adaptations. We started talking about this because I said that I think a lower protein intake wouldn't be the worst strategy for losing weight for specifically for climbing. Losing weight shouldn't be a long term strategy to begin with, and not getting enough protein means muscular atrophy. The heaviest muscles being the biggest ones being things like glutes and quads. If you're already in reasonable shape, lowering body fat percentage alone won't make as much of a difference to your power to weight as atrophy of big useless muscles. I'm not saying at all that bigger forearms aren't (probably) better, I'm just saying that smaller legs objectively are.
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Nov 19, 2018 18:04
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ShaneB posted:I had 6 or so days off due to the holiday and family stuff, and last night felt incredibly fresh. I was climbing as hard as I ever have been and never got pumped, and even after attempting routes that, for me, were about the top of my ability I felt ready to go again after some short rest. A route that had, a few weeks ago, been out of my abilities was now an easy warm-up. Maybe you do too much in your average session. No heard of creatine being used for recovery, what makes you think it's a good way to go?
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Nov 30, 2018 23:35
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Do just train with it and stop taking it before a trip to drop the water weight or do you keep taking it?
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Dec 1, 2018 07:14
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Incoming Chinchilla posted:Got some questions about wrist pain. Do you work at a computer? I have the same problem when I get a bit keen on slopers. Do lots of this bullshit now and then https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ex3TXMwSltU
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Dec 1, 2018 18:21
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He's talking about on climbing trips. He literally names local projects as an exception
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Mar 10, 2019 22:25
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Finally saw Dawn Wall yesterday. Flawless...
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Mar 11, 2019 16:09
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enraged_camel posted:I watched Dawn Wall and Free Solo back to back. It was an interesting experience, but not because of the climbing. Most people never find out what their priorities really are, and either assume or, worse, lie about what them to those closest to them. Knowing yourself, and being honest about it, isn't ruthless in a relationship. It's a kindness. jiggerypokery fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 17:17
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It's important to keep it in the context of him knowing he is extremely likely to die.
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Mar 11, 2019 19:48
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I mean, being a oval office to stop people getting close to him isn't an unreasonable coping mechanism. Cold as it seems
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Mar 11, 2019 19:50
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I dunno. How he copes emotionally with that level of risk is pretty fascinating in a macabre sort of a way.
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Mar 11, 2019 19:57
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The scene in free solo where Tommy justifies why he is ok with helping Alex was intense.
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Mar 11, 2019 21:44
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Jason Kehl's youtube channel doesn't get nearly enough love https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsiGq8nkPJs The man is a true legend
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May 18, 2021 00:12
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Ratho is a world class climbing gym and has really high quality instructors available. One of the guys who grew up in the Ratho climbing team - Will Bosi - recently became one of only 6 people in the world to climb 9b+. Safe to say they know how to teach!
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May 19, 2021 10:54
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https://www.edinburghleisure.co.uk/venues/edinburgh-international-climbing-arena/coaching#EICAAdults Looks like improvers stage is what you are after!
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May 19, 2021 12:59
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Sab669 posted:Would love some beta for this slightly overhung assholes of a problem: Look where your hips are at 0:28 It's really hard to tell from the camera angle, but as a general rule you want to rock up when you are in that position with the heel. Drive your right knee rightwards and try to get your hips/rear end directly over your right ankle. From there you should be able to relax, find the flagging position for your left leg (maybe straight down, maybe a little to the right, feel it out) and be well in balance to match your hands or bump your right hand right. This might be BS for this specific problem, it's really hard to tell. It just looks like your soul is telling you rock up but you don't have that motion in your repetoir jiggerypokery fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Jul 13, 2021 |
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Jul 13, 2021 13:31
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MockingQuantum posted:So it seems like the general advice for starting out is "just go climb" but is there anything that I should be thinking about or focusing on right off the bat, in the interest of developing good habits (or avoiding bad ones)? I can already tell I'll need to log some mileage before I'm even going to know what questions to ask about technique. It's hard to work on technique when trying things that are hard for you. Treat your "warmup" time like practice time and have a theme for every warmup. Silent feet, straight arms on steep terrain, flagging, outside edge... there are so many. Pick one per session and really enjoy the first 20-30 mins or so of climbing where you just concentrate on using it. I still do this after 10+ years of climbing.
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Jul 14, 2021 15:13
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Also, just climb is good advice but doing some really basic conditioning can make a huge difference in terms of injury prevention and general progression early on. You don't need to even do anything as strenuous as pull ups. A couple of times a week of 10 or so scapular shrugs, both from a bar and in press up position, and 30s - 1min of core holds (plank, hollow body will do). How much it will help depends a bit on your background but a simple routine like that is going to do no harm but prepares your body well. If you feel any sort of sore after, it's probably too much.
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Jul 14, 2021 15:27
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Doubt it matters much unless it is for a really long time. I keep old ropes coiled in boxes. Sunlight isn't good for them, that's for sure
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Jul 19, 2021 20:42
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UV treating isn't really a thing afaik, but obviously sunlight isn't getting to the core of your ropes wherever they are. Still I wouldn't hang them anywhere they might see daylight. Something I only learnt recently how much nylon slings degrade. A 17kn rated sling can drop as low as 2 within just a few years. It's shocking how little it takes to snap old slings
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Jul 19, 2021 22:52
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You are much more likely to pick up injuries on a calory deficit. It's a good time to shift gears to volume rather than pushing your top grade
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Aug 19, 2021 09:56
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Saying coordination problems don't prepare you for outside because you never do things that dynamically is like saying campus boarding doesn't prepare you because you never have to pull that hard on rock.
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Sep 14, 2021 08:55
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Lor Sabourin film is out now on YouTube. 5.14 trad in Arizona. Looks unbelievably cool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahuiQT4xMdw
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Oct 9, 2021 11:38
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Anyone been to the Dominican Republic? I hear it's good but internet info is thin on the ground
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Oct 22, 2021 16:58
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Try repeating easier stuff with different beta
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Nov 9, 2021 03:37
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I've had a lot of luck buying 2nd hand holds. Lots of people make home walls then never use them.
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Dec 30, 2021 16:13
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It's just what you are used to. I have a much worse time indoors because I don't climb indoors much. Other people bother me much more than bolt spacing or whatever.
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Jan 18, 2022 19:49
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Pads are Super Effective! You can do a lot with not many
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Jan 18, 2022 20:37
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I tried that while climbing but curling up in a ball and making fleshy fists turned out not the be the beta
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Jan 25, 2022 02:19
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Wrist strength is sloper strength but most people do wrist curls with dumbells if anything at all, but that is normally aimed at forearm hypertrophy. Honestly it's effectiveness is questionable.
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Jan 29, 2022 14:12
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Muira lace ups are the best shoe in the world for slab/vert in my humble opinion. They fit me extremely well at least
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Feb 4, 2022 17:54
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Used ones are the way to go for home walls. If you really don't want to, otherwise try to buy local. They are very heavy. I'm not sure where you are but I'd get whoever makes the best holds nearest rather than asking who makes the best globally. There are lots of good manufacturers and a mix is best anyway
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Feb 27, 2022 22:50
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No ifs, just butts.
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Jul 2, 2022 11:41
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Sab669 posted:drat, excited to see more of Project Big. I've missed Ondra on the pro circuit lately. He's just been doing a new 9b+ and a 9a onsight. Keeping it casual this year
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Dec 2, 2022 14:30
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spwrozek posted:Typically they are bolted ground up using aid techniques from what I understand. You can do it either way. The same aid techniques let you get in by rapping down but its super hard work. I've never bolted new steep routes but I've worked deep water solos on a gri-gri and re-bolted steep routes. Dave macleod has a video on self belay with a shunt which shows various ways you can get into a steep wall without bolts in it already. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4N2WGcABLo
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Dec 5, 2022 11:54
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 15:35 |
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I always use a gri gri. I caught a lead fall recently that caused me to trip over a rock as I stepped to give a softer catch. In that moment I let go of the dead rope. Absolutely nothing bad happened. Use a gri gri.
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Jun 19, 2023 13:59
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