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Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



canis minor posted:

Yearly wall membership would cost me £216 in UK

That's cheap, the two places I've climbed at regularly have both been around £350 for an annual pass.

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Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



I can't imagine doing anything other than downsizing Sportivas massively. I just got a pair of pythons in an EU 40, i wear 44-44.5 street shoes.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



Honnold soloed Freerider on El Cap. Possibly the raddest (I use that word to distinguish it from something more physically groundbreaking) climbing achievement of all time.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



Endjinneer posted:

John Dunne says you can. He was a pioneer of the train heavy, climb light approach.
Necky solo action + yaarkshire ethics start at 3 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D0Mp0RrQRA

John Dunne was a freak of nature. Not sure how much he weighed in his heyday, but no one that shape has climbed that hard before or since. People think Jan Hojer is heavy now cos he weighs about 80kg (176lb) at like 6' 2. Ondra is what, like 65kg, and Megos is 57 ffs.

In my experience, you can definitely stay 'climbing strong' while losing weight, because as much as people like to say it isn't, it's so dictated by your weight. I'm currently heavier and stronger than I've ever been generally, but not climbing any harder than I was five years ago or so, when I was about 8kg lighter. As people have said though, watch out for injuries. Anecdotal evidence only, but I've always felt much more injury prone on a calorie deficit, which I suppose makes sense.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



enraged_camel posted:

Personally, I find that having strong quads, hamstrings and glutes helps me a lot more. I've been climbing for less than a year though so it's possible I'm just talking out of my rear end.

You are. All big legs will do for you in climbing is weigh you down, and anyone who says otherwise is just trying to kid themselves.

That's not to say having a strong posterior chain from squats and deadlifts won't help you toe in on small footholds on overhanging routes, but you'll still be relatively weaker than the 50kg kid with stick legs.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



The limiting factor for a move in climbing is going to be strength in your legs less than 1% of the time. Almost everyone who can climb at all has the requisite strength in their legs to stand up through a movement, it's just knowing to do it that holds beginners back.

If there was a single exercise involving legs I'd recommend to climbers it'd be a deadlift, but I'm still not convinced the gains in posterior chain strength would offset the gain in lower body mass, no matter how small. There are coaches who advocate barbell work, but if you ask most top level climbers how much lower body strength work they do, it's going to be minimal.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



A vertical mouse is a big improvement for me too, much less strain on the forearm than from a regular one.

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Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



If your heel is slipping out of a pair of solutions, they're too big. The heel is by no means amazing, but it shouldn't come off.

To be a bit more helpful, Scarpa instincts are probably the best shoes I've had for heel hooking. I had the old lace up ones, but I'm sure any of the newer ones are as good. Depends though, generally a soft heel like on pythons are good for slopers, harder heel like solution or that cheat ridge on the anasazi heel are better for hooking edges ime.

Still B.A.E fucked around with this message at 08:12 on May 30, 2018

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