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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Dutymode posted:

For a lot of people gym time is their "climbing experience", not "just training" and that is absolutely OK.

That's all I get currently. I'm so keen to try some outside, and get to lead but with time and gear both at a premium all my friends and I get is 3 hours a week in a gym top roping.

So, you know, that's for not making GBS threads on my experience.

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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



gamera009 posted:

Are you close to any bouldering? As long as you have shoes, and some chalk in a ziplock, most boulders are perfectly happy to let you crash on their pads.

Or at least, I've always welcomed people who wanted to climb and also be safe, and let them climb with me so they have access to a pad.

I've got a few very nice people who want to take me out, but I univeristy Mon-Fri and work every Saturday and about every 3rd Sunday and they almost always have meets on days that aren't copacetic.

It'll get better during uni holidays, but right now I'm still having a blast indoors, luckily I'm spoiled for choice with gyms.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Oh good, shoe chat. Does anyone with Morton's Toe have a good recommendation for a technical pair? I tried some Tenaya Oasi but my second toe wouldn't let me wear them for 5 seconds.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



^^ So incredibly jealous

chami posted:

Morton's Toe and slightly wide feet - I regularly wear Instinct VS and Miura VS before that without too much issue. My index toe is only about 1cm longer than my big toe though, so the wider and higher volume toeboxes in both those models really help with comfort.

I actually also have a pair of the Tenaya Tarifas; they're less aggressive than the Oasi but Tenaya lasts are just too narrow for me. If you've got narrow - normal feet you might want to give those a try.

Thanks for the advice, I ended up getting a pair of Solutions. Doesn't seem to bother my Morton's at all. They're going to be a pain to break in and I thought I did myself a disservice when I hit up some top roping this morning, but I got onto some overhang bouldering problems and it made me feel like I was cheating.

I traded out for my comfy Pink Anasazis after a few climbs and the amount of slop in them blew my mind. They're definitely going to bring my climbing game up.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Mons Hubris posted:

I have some Sportiva Tarantulaces and they are getting pretty slippery. Three months old or so. How do I get these things sticky again?

Wash the rubber with soapy water, should being them right up again, or if you need too give them a very light go with some coarse sandpaper, just enough to restore the deep black they should be.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Partial Octopus posted:

Would something like the La Sportiva Solutions be too aggressive/advanced for me? I don't want to spend $150 on shoes and have them be destroyed in a month due to my sloppy footwork.

I bought a pair of Solutions 3 weeks ago, I've been climbing for a little over a year and my previous pair were 5.10 Pink Anasazi that were very loosely fit.

After a very painful break-in I'm in love with them. The shape of the shoe itself demands good foot technique, and punishes sloppy positioning quickly. You'll also be in so much discomfort for the first couple weeks that you'll have no choice but to do very light footwork.

I thoroughly recommend at least trying a pair on, I don't think there's a graduating point that you need to wait for to get into technical shoes.

Megabound fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Mar 17, 2016

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Partial Octopus posted:

How much did you downsize? I wear an 41/42 street shoe and could only fit into a 40.5 without extreme pain. I tried the Miura VS and the 40.5 in that was even worse. I have somewhat wide feet but not super wide or anything.

44 street to 42.5. La Sportiva size large in general. I tried a 43 but it had quite a bit of slop in the heel. Now that they're breaking in I kind of wish I went a half size smaller again. Seeing as it's unlined leather there's a lot of stretch in them, a half-size at least.

If you do end up getting solutions you're only going to get a wall or two out the first time you put them on, and in some pretty bad pain. The three other people I know who own them had the same issue, and you'll probably think you've done yourself a disservice with sizing down so far. I ended up warming up in my old shoes until my feet got sweaty, then switched over as the moisture helps the leather expand.

E: I'm climbing twice to three times a week currently, focusing on bouldering and overhung problems and it's only taken 3 sessions to get them comfortable enough where I'm thinking about technique and not pain, but they'll take another week or two for me to learn how to use them correctly. There's a world of difference between highly technical shoes and non.

Megabound fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Mar 18, 2016

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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Ravenfood posted:

Wooooo shoe chat! I'm looking to upgrade my nagos 41.5. Thing is, every single shoe I tried on has a large pressure point/hot spot on the medial side of my big toe on the first knuckle. It's been so long since I bought my nagos that I really don't remember if they had it and I just stretched them out. I tried solutions, futuras, shamans, katanas, vapor vs, miuras, and they all had it to some extent. The katanas were the most comfortable, and weirdly the 41 vapors didn't have the toe issue but instead were really tight on the lateral side. The 41.5s did, though. How much is that going to stretch out? Should I just grab some katanas and see if it goes? And it seems like the katanas will stretch more than the nagos (which already stretched a bit too much for me), anyone compared them?

Or, does anyone else have that hotspot and find a shoe that worked?

E: vapor v and katana were the least pressure-pointy there, and I am wanting a more aggressive shoe than the nago.

I've got that same hotspot and I'm using a pair of LaSportiva solutions. I didn't find out about it until a month or so in but right now I'm just dealing with it. Some medical tape and it's all good.

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