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www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I just started rock climbing at an indoor gym near me. Triangle rock club near the raleigh / RTP area of nc. I have a birthday coming up so I was thinking of asking for a harness or something not crazy expensive. I don't currently own any gear and the gym offers free rentals for the first month, but im not really even sure of what would be the more important thing to own for yourself instead of renting. I feel like shoes and a harness are probably the first things you would want to get but I don't really know. I've been climbing for all of about 2 weeks now and am still a complete beginner. I've seen this harness mentioned a few times in this thread: http://gearx.com/petzl-sama-harness and thought it would be a good option that was relatively inexpensive. Is there anything I should know about it or is there something that would be a better choice. I've never really tried anything on other than what is available as a rental.


Also as a side note. I would like to find someone in the area that I could climb with. I'm belay certified but not for lead climbing or anything. I've been going to meetups at this place but I would like to go more often than the meetups are scheduled.

www.amazon.com fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Feb 2, 2015

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www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


Well I plan on going to REI in the next couple of days but I don't know that they have any petzl harnesses in store where I am according to the find in store function on their website. I think I need to put the price point at about $60 or so if I want it as a birthday gift. From what I have heard mentioned on here the petzl adjama is the same as the sama except with adjustable leg loops. I couldn't find it on sale for anything less than msrp which i guess is why i was looking at the sama instead. I guess my thing is I don't really know what the major differences are between harnesses. I only really see myself climbing inside for the foreseeable future. So I basically just want something that is comfortable to wear for a while at a time. The only real preference I think I have at the moment is that is has the vertical belay loop, instead of just one single loop at the top for tying in and belaying. And it has to have an extra loop or two to clip a carabiner and a place to eventually connect a chalk bag in the back.

I'm about a 32" waist. I just sort of assumed that since the size of that harness I was looking at was sized for up to 33" that the legs ought to fit. I don't really know much other than it might look cool. A girl I talked to had the black diamond siren which as far as I can tell is the female version of the black diamond flight harness which looks good but I don't really know how different it is. other than adjustable leg loops. and it being 70 bucks vs just over 50.


Let me edit this again. I see on REI and a couple other sites some harnesses are offered as packages that come with a locking carabiner, belay device and a chalk bag. any opinions on these packages.

www.amazon.com fucked around with this message at 08:21 on Feb 2, 2015

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


Does that mean you don't like the petzl brand harnesses?

According to REI what they have in store from black diamond are the:

Black Diamond Momentum and that's it. along with the momentum kit with the belay package and chalk bag.

It seems what is available to try on might be somewhat limited. unless I wanna bother with rei return policy and online order some stuff just to try it on and maybe return it in store. which doesn't work at all if I ask my grandma for something.

www.amazon.com fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Feb 2, 2015

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


as far as package deals. I see this
http://www.rei.com/product/880934/black-diamond-momentum-climbing-harness-package-mens black diamond momentum package

Then I look on the black diamond website and see they have what they call the momentum ds harness available as a package or just harness:
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/momentum-ds-combo-BD651064_cfg.html#start=13 Momentum DS combo package http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-Momentum-DS-Combo_10235667_10208_10000001_-1_ just because black diamond doesn't have the smaller size in stock.
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/momentum-ds-harness-BD651065_cfg.html#start=14 Momentum DS just harness

edit again;
guess I have a thousand questions. I see this momentum SA harness from black diamond as a package. can anyone tell me what are the real differences between these options.
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/momentum-sa-harness-package-BD651041_cfg.html

www.amazon.com fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Feb 2, 2015

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


Ya i'm thinking I'll spend some of my tax return to grab some shoes. I was thinking to keep it around 100 bucks or so hopefully. the gym I joined gave me a 20% off coupon for any one item which I was thinking to use for shoes. They have a small selection to try on but I'll have to see if they will order something to use my coupon towards if I can find more selection to try on elsewhere. would the sportiva tarantulace or nago; or oxygym which don't seem to be listed as in store at rei, shoes be a decent option for something cheap to get the job done. At this point I would rather just have something I could wear the whole time im climbing without having to take off every time I get off a climb so my feet aren't murdered.

www.amazon.com fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Feb 2, 2015

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I got around to stopping at rei today to try some harnesses on and of the bunch I tried on the black diamond momentum turned out to be the one that seemed to fit the best. I posted up above about a few momentum harnesses that were somehow different. ie the DS and SA. Would it be safe to assume that they should fit the same. I'm still not even really sure what the differences are after looking at specs and stuff.

Edit... Maybe that question is not on point considering the DS version only comes in 2 sizes s-m and l-xl whereas the SA version has all the individual sizes listed. crap.

www.amazon.com fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Feb 3, 2015

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I tried on some harnesses and now some shoes. The only two that REI really had that were in the 100 or under range were from la sportiva. The Tarantulace and the nago. On the specs it lists it using the same shape and last although I think it is a bit difference. The nago seemed like the toe was downturned a bit more and the heel seemed to have a lot better hold although at the top it felt to dig into my heal a bit. They do list a different rubber on the sole. vibram XS vs. frixion RS for the Tarantulace. I don't really know anything about the different rubber types but the Tarantulace seems like it would be a bit more comfortable to just wear and never take off and the sportiva Nago seems like it might be a little bit more aggressive, if not slightly more uncomfortable for long times.

Do you think that is an accurate perception. I think I just want to get my first shoe from a place I can try on all different sizes and before I waste my tax return on something totally useless.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


So I ordered these shoes on closeout. I tried on 3 different styles of evolv shoes and the 9.5 or 42.5 felt the best on all three styles so I hope these work out well.
http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/closeout/geshido/

I'm still a beginner and 90% do top rope stuff and im starting to do a bit of boldering when im not dead tired. I'm hoping these are a good balance between flat general purpose shoes while still not being super aggressive. It seemed to be a good deal anyways.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I ran across a bunch of those videos on youtube.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I got beet up by two 5.8's today. The first was going good until the last 2-3 moves where my lack of crimp ability (maybe some lack of trust in my foot grip) stopped me in my tracks. The second just left me confused. Although the fact I thought they might be possible for me was great. Progress has felt almost exponential up to this point where just 3 or 4 weeks ago the easiest felt like a struggle, if i could even make it up a 30 foot wall rainbowing. It's nice to go back to those after a short time and wonder how those were ever difficult in the least.... 5.5 to 5.7 doesn't seem to be as big a difference, in hindsight than, of 5.7 to 5.8 because of a higher number of crimps. Keeping the goals small and attainable I think in 2 weeks I would like to be able to clean most 5.8's just as most 5.7 have started to come more easily and natural.

TLDR:
I'm stoked on what seems to be great progress in only 4-5 weeks.


Any gear suggestions were appeciated. I bought everything I needed for my birthday and I'm happy with all of it.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


armorer posted:

Nice work! This next bit I am saying, not to be a downer, but just to set expectations:

At some point your rapid progress will plateau, and you'll have to start working harder to push up through the number grades. A lot of early progress can be made through better technique, which can be learned pretty quickly. At a certain point though you really do need more strength (finger/back/arm/etc), or conversely to lose some weight, and those things takes time. You need more refined technique as well, and things like "efficiency of movement" which take longer to develop. You are actually burning in new reflexes.

Your 2 week goal to be sending 5.8 may be totally realistic. But (again - this is entirely to set expectations) 6 weeks to go from 5.5 to 5.8 definitely does not equal 6 more weeks to go from 5.8 to 5.11. I don't think that you have that expectation, but it can be frustrating when you get stuck on a grade for a while. When your progress does slow, and "the next number grade" feels really hard compared to whatever you are climbing, the satisfaction when you finally progress is that much better.

Oh for sure. I imagine I'll be stuck for a while after this jump.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I waited like 3 weeks and totally don't regret it. It probably depends on where you climb. The place I go to gave a month of free rentals with joining. In my case it gave me a good bit of time to get a feel of things and not feel a need to rush into buying anything. I bought something online that didn't really fit me and it didn't really matter because I still had free rentals to use. Having my own now they are much better than the beet up rentals, but I think there is a value in giving a bit of time of find and figure out what will work out good for you rather than rushing out to get something, then feeling like you need to keep them even if their might be something else.

I ended up just getting a basic pair of tarantulace shoes in the end for 85 bucks but they feel nice on my feet.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


E/n

I've noticed in the past few days my left elbow getting sore. More so than I would say is normal. It's not something I would say is painful at all but it's different than something where I would just be like oh it's just muscle fatigue from working out really hard. I am pretty sure i've read somewhere before that in imbalance in muscle strength from working one set of arm muscles a lot more than the other can cause the elbow to be sore. I forget what name was possibly mentioned where ever I read that.

It's nothing I would worry about now, but it might be a sign I should work on other exercises or something. Figured I would see if there is any experience here to help ward off anything I really ought to be bothered with. I've been climbing till absolutely dead but still only 2 times a week now. I've done 3 time a week a couple times but just taken it easy on 1 of them trying not to beat myself up too bad.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


Falkaugaa posted:

This could be the beginning of climber's elbow (or medial epicondylitis? I think that's its name). Dave MacLeod recommends eccentric wrist curls as pre/rehab for this condition, but I find incorporating a daily wrist sequence of wrist pushups and first knuckle pushups works well to keep it at bay. Start working them on the wall before you move to a kneeling position. I work up to 5x5 before I increase load by leaning further forward. Antagonist training is also a good idea, especially working band pull-aparts, band reverse flies and other external rotations of the shoulder, this helps for avoiding shoulder impingement.

(Hey climbing thread!)

So, as the outdoors season is coming up (at least here in Norway), it's time to set some goals for the season. What are you guys aiming for this year? I'm looking to start bouldering Font 7A and beyond, as I finished a weak season last year at Font 6C.

Am I right in that you seem to say just doing various types of pushups should be a good thing to try out. I don't really have any free weights on hand at home, but i guess the climbing gym does. it would be more convenient if I could just work on it at home.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I accidently clipped into an auto belay they other day using only the belay loop on my harness. Something felt off when I did it but my mind just never noticed it until I got back down and thought about how it has never been that simple to unclip before.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


That was my thought after thinking about it. I was like a lead climbing fall should put way more force on it by many multiples. On the auto belay it basically just needs to hold your body weight for less than 10 seconds on the way down. I was still like wait a secondl; did I really just do that.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


Honestly I'm not even sure what the policy is on the auto belay where I climb. the only time it was mentioned I i was still using the rental harnesses which only have 1 loop anyways. After I got my own harness I just started naturally clipping the locking biner through both loops just how I would route the rope if I was tying in.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


It feels like a while ago that I barely climbed a 5.8 for the first time. finally it feels like I can make it up most 5.8 that are put up. I think for the first time I can start looking for some 5.9 to start working into.

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www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I'm starting to feel really comfortable with 5.9 level climbs. flashed a 5.10 today so I need to finally try some more of those. feels like im atleast ready to try out lead climbing. is there a consensus. The gym says they recomend being comfortable with 5.9 before doing the lead climbing class and getting into that ish.

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