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Impromptu Flip posted:Couple of newbie questions: Seconding these newbie questions. I'm 29 and around 200 lbs, and starting to get into bouldering after an inactive january and february that left me with noodle arms. I'm really struggling to do anything except the easiest climbs, and don't know where to start improving my technique and strength. Also: I got size 12 shoes because I have extra-wide size 11 hobbit feet, and I couldn't find any brands that catered to that. How can I tell if these are too large? Opinions on shoe tightness seem to vary, but I never feel like I need to take them off. Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Mar 7, 2018 |
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Mar 7, 2018 15:01
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gamera009 posted:InjuryChat: Got to the topout section of Resonated, and ended up cranking on a dynamic move enough to tear the nail bed away from the nail on my right middle finger. separate about 2mm of the nail bed from under the front edge of the nail. Bled all over the place and made cranking painful as gently caress. Superglued it down and hopefully it will heal up in the next couple of days so I can crank on it some more. I groaned out loud reading this, jesus gently caress.
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Mar 19, 2018 11:48
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What's a send? Completed route?
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Aug 3, 2018 13:37
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armorer posted:Completed route, from the ground to a controlled finish, without any falls or takes. I thought that was called flashing?
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Aug 3, 2018 14:23
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armorer posted:To the best of my knowledge there is no specific term for completing a route if there were takes/falls involved. and in this context a "take" is what? like a redo on a grip or foothold if you slip, or is it backing up to try a different angle of attack?
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Aug 4, 2018 20:00
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armorer posted:"I've one hung that route 3 times now l, but still can't stitch it together past the crux". COME ON. At this point you're just going out of your way to not use plain english. 
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Aug 9, 2018 14:08
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Totally. Every hobby community has its slang, that's natural and I get it. But at a certain point it starts to feel like jargon for jargon's sake, and that can make even the most wonderful and welcoming community off-putting and insidery. If I need to learn a second language before I can start participating socially and getting tips on technique, that's an annoying barrier to entry.
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Aug 9, 2018 15:52
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Cannon_Fodder posted:It's a slippery slope.  Hope your finger bounces back! Ubiquitus posted:Reading comprehension is hard. Try again; the words were pretty simple but its seems you didn't understand what was written. But like, nuance is hard, man.
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Aug 9, 2018 22:02
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He wasn't, but the reply stands either way. Both of us already made it clear that we understand some jargon is necessary and good. It was literally the second sentence of my post 
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Aug 10, 2018 02:33
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 How does someone end up in that situation?!
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Aug 14, 2018 14:13
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You guys are nuts. Today I dragged my wife to the climbing gym and felt like Tarzan for making in to the top of an autobelay 5.6 without chickening out. My unironic goal for next time is to jump off the top instead of climbing halfway down before I trust the autobelay to catch me.
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Aug 18, 2018 03:01
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I'm sure. I went to the gym twice a couple weeks ago and couldn't stay on the wall. You're monsters. You and me both, buddy.
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Aug 20, 2018 15:39
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The rand is the upper to guard bit?
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Aug 21, 2018 14:03
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Jumped off the top of several autobelays today 
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Aug 24, 2018 02:11
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Wrr posted:Had to train myself to not fear the auto belay by climbing the baby-wall nonstop and jumping off progressively higher and higher. For whatever reason placing a hand on the auto-belay cord helps mentally, but I guess maybe thats not a great idea? Works for me. For me it's a combination of the auto belay and heights in general, but this is exactly what I did too. 
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Aug 24, 2018 16:42
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Tactical Lesbian posted:I think I like autobelays more than human belayers tbh Me too, but if you're a person who's bad with heights, letting yourself fall backwards onto a line that feels completely loose and unanchored until it catches you is an interesting experience. It's a mini leap of faith every time and I'm pretty sure the more experienced climbers around me think I'm batshit, because I'm gasping and laughing and grinning like an idiot every time I make myself do it and don't die.
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Aug 24, 2018 18:09
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Rime posted:As someone who lives in a van and climbs too much, there's a shocking number of women who think it's frickin' awesome. It's wierding me out. Of course they do, pursuing your passion is romantic and sexy when you're looking at it from the outside and not seeing the sacrifices involved yet. Humans are great at zeroing in on superficially attractive things that are worthless or actively bad for us in a partner. Like Honnold's "shrill" girlfriend probably doesn't think of herself as the girl trying to hold back Alex loving Honnold, Mountain Sperg God. She thinks of him as "my boyfriend Alex, who I actually ended up caring about so now I sort of wish he would stop doing this thing that is guaranteed to eventually kill him." Both pretty human imo.
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Oct 12, 2018 14:59
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I took a leap off the top of the bouldering wall during a class and one of my knees made a knuckle crack sound (normal for me but horrifying to a normal person). The class instructor visibly winced and begged me not to do that anymore. I think the habit comes from when climbing trees as a kid, because children are made of rubber and can leap out of trees and roll the landing with no damage, and when you're a kid you cling to whatever tiny dumb thing you think makes you cool. In hindsight this is probably why my knees are already garbage at 30.  Tl;dr: Climbing back down is good and advisable.
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Oct 12, 2018 18:00
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My gym that I jumped at has padding that's more than a foot deep in the bouldering area. What loving monster uses SAND AND GRAVEL
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Oct 13, 2018 00:13
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Rime posted:"So how about a season of mixed climbing and ski mountaineering ascents in the Rockies this winter? ", says the text from a kid ten years younger and infinitely bolder than I am. And we never heard from him again.  I finally made it official and signed up for my local gym's starter package. Got a month membership, a harness, chalk, bag, and shoes that fit properly (uncomfortable). Also ordered a nice yoga mat because they have classes every Tuesday and Thursday evening, and I want to climb and then do that twice a week. Let's do this poo poo for real!
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Oct 17, 2018 13:00
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Autobelay might also work, if you have them? To me those feel like nothing is there until you fall/jump, much closer to bouldering psychologically
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Oct 18, 2018 13:42
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 18:19 |
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I'm never climbing outside. 
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Mar 5, 2020 22:43
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