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Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


So I'm pretty green to climbing, started going to a local climbing gym with a friend that's qualified instructor about 6 weeks ago. I'm loving every minute so far!
Bouldering is definitely my jam, comfortably clearing most v3's and cleared my first v4/6b earlier this week.
Finding top roping far more awkward, just about clearing most 5b's and the odd 5c. Only had one session top roping so far.

My biggest struggle at the moment though is belaying my friend who is around 16stone. I'm 12st and I'm having to anchor to a 25kg bag which is making rope movement from the ground quite tedious.
Heading to Spain for a long weekend in September and will be doing my first outdoor lead climb at a couple of pre pinned cliffs near my friends apartment. Safe to say I'm making GBS threads myself already.

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Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


Endjinneer posted:

There's often more friction in the system than you expect. l've definitely belayed people that are 4 stone heavier and while you get airtime when they fall, lowering is still nicely controllable.
You could get an edelrid ohm if you're really concerned. It clips onto the first bolt like a quickdraw and stops the belayer from shooting off the ground.

Its not holding him that's really the problem. More that I end up half way up the wall if he takes any sort of uncontrolled fall.
The 30kg bag is working wonders to stop this but I am probably going to invest in a weighted vest so that I can move around on the ground more easily.
Top roping hasn't been so much of an issue, only lead climbing.
Thanks for the recommendation of the elerid ohm though, it's probably something we will give a go.

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


Apparently I'm a boulder bro now. I'm only allowed to wear vests.
Must get more tattoos

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


I've got a big ol' bag of chalk for bouldering but apparently it's different to the little bag of chalk we use for lead/top?? Idk
Apparently I'm doing it right though, I come out of every boulder session covered in chalk from head to toe.

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


First outdoor climb done :sun:

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


Five routes bolted on that face, then four more bolted around the right hand side.
There is a ravine around the corner with some 50m routes and also other routes dotted around the edge of the town.
We started off on a 3c and a 4b then moved onto the 5b on that face. Everything was 100% more difficult because of the 30°c heat but was soo worth it.
When we get back to England (specifically home in Cornwall) we are mostly confident about hitting some of the outdoor climbs on the cliffs.

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


Endjinneer posted:

UKC is your friend! Filter by sport climbing routes and go wild. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/?q=CORNWALL&x=-5.048&y=50.265&z=10
Then find yourself a friend with a trad rack and get involved with Commando Ridge at Bosigran next spring, before the grockles arrive.

My buddy has full trad gear, Bosigran is on our radar for when we get home since it's within pissing distance from us.
There is climbing everywhere for us in Cornwall and nothing is more than an hours drive or so.
Another month or so of reasonable weather and trmhen it's back to the gym for the winter

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


Can you not smear the left foot instead of trying a toe hook and then have to generate less momentum for the dyno?
I'm only 5ft8 and I've got stubby strong arms and long legs so I try to use my legs where I can to dyno up to holds instead of relying on brute strength.

E. I mean smear on the hold you are trying the toe hook

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


KingColliwog posted:


Did my second outdoor V5 so I'll shamelessly share the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0xI0MSG3s4

Grats. That looks like a pretty fun route

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


Has anyone here been out to Fontainebleau? We are looking at booking a lodge out there for late summer or early autumn for a week of nonstop bouldering chaos.

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


e. wrong thread

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


Scheduling to go next weekend if the weather isn't total poo poo :sun:

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


Hitting this tomorrow :sun:

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


Endjinneer posted:

Love me a bit of Cornish granite. The Dewerstone is good if the sun is a bit much.

It's on my list although it means getting my passport out to go over the Tamar.
We are climbing again this weekend but haven't decided where yet

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


Dodos delight is a fantastic episode.

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


I heard a funny thing at the climbing gym yesterday, there’s one climb that a few people were struggling to do, then this guy just came along and smashed it but then someone took the piss out of him and said "we’re in Cornwall mate, we dont accept the London match" so had to do it again. That is when you reach the top hold with one hand then just touch your arm with the other hand to match instead of touching the hold

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


It was something witnessed and overheard, nothing to do with me, just to clarify. Although I've been on the receiving end of some sledging where no one saw me complete a climb so had to do it again with a witness for my own sanity. :smith:

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Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.


I have a pair of Simond edge v2 that I really rate, they were not a horrible amount of monies (bought in a decathlon in Spain)

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