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asur posted:I also think you have a misconceptions about gym lead climbing. If you fall at the second or third clip, especially if you're attempting to clip, chances are high that you'll either deck or hit your belayer. Even if the bolts are only separated by "two or three moves"? My gym puts bolts on in a similar way and I have fallen at 2nd/3rd clip many times and failed to deck/hit my belayer. Maybe my belayers are keeping me too tight? Unless these routes are really reachy I'm finding this hard to visualize.
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Oct 3, 2014 03:27
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 15:22 |
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spwrozek posted:Or you have a good belayer who pays attention and is making sure you don't deck. Good belaying at times like this is super important. The belayer can't prevent everything but with good foresight they can save you some pain. Also don't be afraid to move past a bolt. If the bolt is at the top of your head you are pulling out 6-8' of rope to clip it, Move up the face and clip at your waste and you only added 3' of rope. Yes, this was the image in my head. I'm a big fan of the "clip between waist and collarbones" rule. I guess I could see the deck happening at bolt 2 if you are stretching above yourself to clip.
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Oct 3, 2014 05:54
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Did a "climb all the V1s and V2s, downclimbing the V1s" circuit today. Hadn't climbed for 2 weeks and I couldn't hold on to anything by the end. I always feel like complete poo poo whenever someone says "V3/V4 /5.11 should be doable in months" because it took me 2 years to get there of climbing 2-3 nights a week. Now I've been stuck in the same spot for a year (I've gotten 1 V5 in that time).
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Dec 18, 2014 08:00
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Papercut posted:If you're talking about indoors then it entirely depends on the setters. I've been to gyms where the V4s would be easy V2s at my gym. That's why you shouldn't really worry about what grade you're climbing and instead just look for problems that you like. This can be hard to remember when one of my male friends goes from 0 to V6 in 6 months and then makes fun of me when I fall on a four for "not wanting it enough."
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Dec 18, 2014 08:25
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My pair before my current (both La Sportiva) fit pretty well except there was one pressure point right on the knuckle of my big toes. My toes responded by growing a little nub of bone - it looks a little weird. The shoes would really start to hurt after about an hour, even though they fit great at the start. My current shoes fit very slightly better and don't have this pressure on the toe. I'm glad I spent the extra $20 on my new shoes because it hurts so much less. So watch out for pressure points I guess?
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Dec 19, 2014 20:41
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Sigmund Fraud posted:File it off! Chances are your shoes will fit great once the extra skin is gone too since they will have stretched to accomody it! Had the same prob. All good now after 20 mins with a glass nail file. I don't think it's just extra skin? If I poke it there's a nice layer of skin on top but a definitely noticeable hard bump of what feels like bone. These old shoes lasted me 1.5 years and finally developed a toe-hole so I'm fine sticking with my new ones. But thank you for the tip! If it happens again I will keep it in mind.
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Dec 19, 2014 22:18
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 15:22 |
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Papercut posted:Is it a bunion? Nope, it's on the joint between the phalanges of the toe, not between the proximal phalanx and the metatarsal. It's not very big
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Dec 20, 2014 07:54
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