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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Blackhawk posted:

I couldn't see a mountaineering thread so I figured this would be the most appropriate place to post about alpine climbing.

Some friends and I headed out to Mount Ruapehu on the north island of New Zealand last weekend, a large active volcano which is host to three ski fields (although it's too early in the season here for there to be any skiing). We hiked up to a hut owned by the NZ alpine club Friday night after work and got there at about 9:30 pm which was nice for a change (we usually arrive way later).

The next morning was perfect, basically zero wind, quite warm, no cloud at all above ~1500m. For reference the hut was at just over 2000m. You might recognise that peak sticking up out of the cloud as mount Doom from the Lord of the Rings movies, correctly known as mt Ngauruhoe.





It was a roasting hot slog up a pretty gentle ridgeline to get to our objective of the day which was Te Huehue, one of the 14 different summits of Ruapehu, which is at 2732m.



We then dropped down from Te Heuheu along another ridgeline to the summit plateau, with the intention of skirting around to the south face of Te Heuheu where we thought we'd find some good routes to climb as it would be in shade all day and so the snow and ice conditions would probably be ok. This is the south face of the ridge we walked down, you can't actually see Te Heuheu in this picture but the most prominent peak shown is Tukino which is a little lower.



The climbs weren't very good yet as there was still hardly any snow but we scoped out what looked like a nice line and went up. We got the rope out and ready in case we needed it but the snow conditions weren't great for a stake and the ice too thin to take a screw, plus the slope never really got about 50 degrees so we just soloed up.



We dropped back down to the plateau again to try a different line along the same climb again as we had plenty of daylight left but by this time thick cloud was rising up from the base of the mountain. Luckily we were just re-tracing our footsteps so having <20m visibility wasn't really a concern but it was very eerie making our way back to the base of the climb.



As luck would have it the cloud started to clear off just as we were starting up the second route so we could see where we were going. The second route was actually a bit easier than the first although it looked worse from a distance and the runout was a bit more considerable. Didn't get any photos of that ascent as I was more concerned with getting it done so we could get back to the hut before sunset.

The hike down was in stunning conditions, again with the cloud receding back down the mountain nearly as fast we we walked so we didn't really drop back into it until just about sunset.







We had planned to try to find a line up the Pinnacles (those sharp peaks in the last few photos) the next day but the weather was coming in and we decided it was probably better to hike out before it started raining and get home at a reasonable time. Hope this wasn't too outside of what the thread was intended for! I also go rock climbing but it's just coming into winter here now which means I'd rather get out and hit up the alpine routes while the conditions support it.

Very cool stuff! I don't think I'll ever get into mountaineering but this is rad. Also, this makes my discovery of a guy on youtube much less interesting.

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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Thinking of getting some Scarpa Vapor Vs for my second shoe after trying on a few different pairs today. Does anybody have them or have strong opinions on them?

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I decided on La Sportiva Miuras instead after trying them, Instincts, and Vapors in a smaller size. My stupid high instep wouldn't even let me get into Instincts.. I went to the gym and played around on the spray wall today to see how well my ankle would hold up and took some falls without pain, but some pivoting on foot holds was a bit weird feeling.

Being on the wall feels pretty great in these shoes, except for some pain in my toes pushing up against the inside of the shoe. I managed to wear them for about 45 minutes before they had to come off... It's a far cry from my comfy Scarpa Helix pair which I could wear forever but I feel so much more precise already

I got them at MEC so if they don't break in as well as I hope I'll just return them.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Jun 20, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
For me it's moreso that my middle and index toes are longer than my big toe, so they press on the roof of the shoe since they are curled up, which I think should be alright as the toe box expands a bit to fit my foot.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Jun 20, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
After talking a bit with climbing friends about what type of pain I get and when with these new shoes, I decided to return them and try out Vapor Vs instead

Also MEC apparently is getting rid of their return policy and it's becoming 30 days instead so I never really have a reason to shop there again

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jun 21, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
After a month and a half of not climbing, I feel bad at climbing now.

I was always bad at climbing, but now moreso. And my fingers feel delicate. And my big toe hurts from new shoes.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
The semis for boudlering at Innsbruck last weekend go taken down from youtube because they were too horny

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
It's reuploaded now

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
My dream climb is any V5 that I can actually send :shobon:

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Argh I wanna get this mantle so bad. This was the sort of thing that I saw when I first started bouldering and thought would always be too hard for me

https://streamable.com/7sc1kw

Tomorrow I'm gonna try to switch my right hand to a mantle while locked off with my left, then push a bit and switch my left to a mantle, and then I should be fine.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Jul 9, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:

we have a similar build/height do you want me to take a vid of this next time im in north van

That would be awesome, thanks!

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I went to Squamish today. I didn't see a bug, but I saw a dog, so I love climbing outside now.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:

https://streamable.com/9gv0th

annoyingly someone bumped the camera but i think the big difference is that 95% of my forces are oppositional between my foot and right arm. the left arm is almost just guiding me upwards but im not really doing any mantling

edit my friend just did it with a full left arm mantle and it looked a lot harder that way

Thanks for this! Looks like there are a lot of small things I can improve on that would make this problem much easier for me.

armorer posted:

Squamish is amazing. I definitely need to get back up there for like, a solid week or so. I was only there for two days when I was there, and the biggest cam I had was a single #4 C4.

Did you do any bouldering there? Pretty rad environment, and very different from the gym (right now at least) socially. I got a couple of moves into a really tough V6 (Minor Threat) which feels like my biggest accomplishment ever.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Jul 11, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

MockingQuantum posted:

was able to finish (send? do I get to use bouldering slang now?) all three of them.

You are going to have to start learning to be a true boulderer and begin complaining that the 3 problems you couldn't send were sandbagged

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:

https://streamable.com/9gv0th

annoyingly someone bumped the camera but i think the big difference is that 95% of my forces are oppositional between my foot and right arm. the left arm is almost just guiding me upwards but im not really doing any mantling

edit my friend just did it with a full left arm mantle and it looked a lot harder that way

Got it finally, the big change I had to make was take my left foot off of the hold where I put it before I make the big move, and consciously push up with my right foot instead of at the wall.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Jul 14, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

MockingQuantum posted:

So it seems like the general advice for starting out is "just go climb" but is there anything that I should be thinking about or focusing on right off the bat, in the interest of developing good habits (or avoiding bad ones)? I can already tell I'll need to log some mileage before I'm even going to know what questions to ask about technique.

Here are some things that will be helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2v4brHpdxY

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Sab669 posted:

Nice nice nice. I love that you two can do beta-by-video-sharing like that :D

I actually pulled up the video on my phone between burns yesterday to have a look before I attempted. Got it on the second try of the day. I flopped my gut onto the top out like a beached whale instead of mantling like a normal person, but whatever, I sent it.

I ran into Verviticus on my way out of the gym to let him know too haha :)

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
https://gripped.com/news/another-huge-squamish-rockfall-on-the-chief/

The first boulder pic in this article is right beside a problem I was doing last weekend. Those rocks were not there before :ohdear:

The part that came down was a part of a bunch of popular trad routes too I'm told. Dreamcatcher is right there too.

I hate it when they reset an area right before I send my project...

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jul 27, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Welp my recovering ankle hit a downclimb jug as I fell on a vertical wall and I'm injured again lmao gently caress everything

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:

that fuckin sucks dude. what problem was it so i can fall and hurt myself on it in solidarity

The purple 3 at the front of the gym that they set a couple of weeks ago

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I can stand on my toes on one foot with minimal pain already so it looks like I mostly just aggravated by recovering injury and didn't re-damage anything, as far as I can tell.

I was supposed to go here to sport climb for the first time today:



So I guess this was fate deciding I should never sport climb

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

spwrozek posted:

I am sure there is an "olympic thread" but man what a stupid format for climbing. The winner could lead ok is but couldn't even boulder at all. Good thing he could run up at 10c............

I'm glad they hired a goon to set B3 so that the entire planet has been goatsed

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Slimy Hog posted:

This is a good point. I'm not a fan of speed climbing but was super into the close ending between Mawem and Coleman (I think?)

The speed part of the combined thing does make for some good sports drama, I gotta say. It was also adorable seeing Ondra and Seo celebrate their PBs while losing, too :)

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Juche Couture posted:

I started climbing about 2 months ago now, my local gyms great (and open late) but man, Im finding the jump from the V1-3 to the V2-4 circuit enormous. I finally managed this one today, which I think is meant to be the easiest of the circuit :)

That seems especially odd since the circuits should have like 75% crossover with eachother in the ranges of grades they set. Do you struggle with most of the 1-3 grade still?

I find that a gym using circuits/ranges doesn't really change the subjectivity of grades. Also in a worst case scenario you end up with a setter who has to set 3 V1-3 problems and 3 V2-4 problems, and ends up setting 3 V1 jug ladders and 3 V4s

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

tildes posted:

I just started bouldering again after a very, very long break and have a few bouldering questions!

Two sort of mild injury related ones:
1- sometimes my right wrist will hurt during climbing/after. Ive been doing wrist stretches (I think intended to avoid carpal tunnel) and this seems to help, but wondering if this is common enough that there are specific things I should be doing?

2- the skin on my hands seems to be my big barrier right now, Ive been occasionally getting skin scraped off enough Ive got to stop. Ive mostly just been waiting ~2 days and using a bandaid next time, and am also trying to be more conscious about not scrabbling for holds when I gently caress up (which seemed to be when my hand would get messed up usually). Is this about par for the course? Also if so, are there especially sticky bandaid brands which would be recommended?

Also, I should probably get climbing shoes to start avoiding rental fees. Are there specific better brands to look for (for someone with narrow feet), or am I probably fine with whatever fits in the store?

Lastly, is there a good resource to read/watch re: climbing form/technique tips? Ive been picking some up just from watching/talking to people, but wondering if theres a recommended source.

Ty for any advice on the above! Have really been enjoying climbing again.

I dunno about your wrist thing other than if it hurts, stop

If I get a flapper or cut my finger with a dull bread knife last weekend while trying to open the tube that weed comes in at the weed store, I will usually use sport tape to cover it while climbing. As your skin gets tougher, it'll happen less.

Buy the shoes that fit you, basically. Don't worry about aggressively downsizing or anything like that for now, you want something that won't make you miserable.

I think that the "Movement for Climbers" youtube channel has some really helpful stuff that isn't available in the "Top 10 tips for beginner climbers" lists. Also Neil Greshams Masterclass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkfUqdr-0zk

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I hate bouldering problems where I get shut down on the starting holds but can breeze through the rest of it.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:

theres a yellow 4 just to the right of the entrance in NV that goes to the very top of the wall and ive fallen on the last move like four times and i gotta say... ill take a bad start over that because goddamn i hate that fall

Ah, is that on the overhang in the corner beside the slab that I'm always reluctant to try anything on because it always seems so high and scary?

Also, toe hooks feel so cool (please ignore how badly I climb the rest of this): https://streamable.com/jknwv2

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
There's a rumor going around that my gym hired Sonnie Trotter to set for them :aaa:

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:


lol yeah im sure he wants to be paid minimum wage and to be treated like poo poo to set for them

I think a lot of the new crimpy stuff is his. The brand new pink to the left of the entrance on the wall I last hurt my ankle on is named "from a Trotter to a gallop" in the Venga Climb app, which I also just learned existed.

He signed for a 3 month contract so I would guess he is working on something in Squamish this fall also

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Verviticus posted:

that app fuckin sucks lol

Yeah it does lol

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Slow News Day posted:

My philosophy is that if it's not the type of problem one is likely to encounter outdoors, it's dumb and also a waste of good wall space.

My philosophy is I like to have fun at the climbing gym

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Nerd guy from that meme: noooo you can't set dynos it's not real climbing

Chad beard guy: I like to go up

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I'm watching this video about coordination dynos :twisted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOcybemmTms

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


what a name

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
I bought a harness and like sport climbing now :twisted:

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mU_dOcZgu2A&t=475s :twisted:

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Was doing a problem where I gotta get a pretty high heel and then rock over all of my weight onto it and then do a pistol squat with no other feet available and a lovely concrete wall I can't smear well on while using pretty lousy slopers mostly just for balance and now one side of my butt is sore :(

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Liquid chalk is not nearly as brutal on my skin as powdered stuff, so I like it good enough

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Went climbing yesterday for the first time since November. I still suck

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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Sab669 posted:

It really really depends on the specific climb / crag. Some have great flat clean landings, otherwise slide down a short hill. And yea some very sketchy top outs can be very unnerving, even if the climb itself was easy.

I down climbed my first V0 outdoors instead of topping out because the top of the boulder was dusty and I got scared of slipping lol

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