|
I just started bouldering again after a very, very long break and have a few bouldering questions! Two sort of mild injury related ones: 1- sometimes my right wrist will hurt during climbing/after. I’ve been doing wrist stretches (I think intended to avoid carpal tunnel) and this seems to help, but wondering if this is common enough that there are specific things I should be doing? 2- the skin on my hands seems to be my big barrier right now, I’ve been occasionally getting skin scraped off enough I’ve got to stop. I’ve mostly just been waiting ~2 days and using a bandaid next time, and am also trying to be more conscious about not scrabbling for holds when I gently caress up (which seemed to be when my hand would get messed up usually). Is this about par for the course? Also if so, are there especially “sticky” bandaid brands which would be recommended? Also, I should probably get climbing shoes to start avoiding rental fees. Are there specific better brands to look for (for someone with narrow feet), or am I probably fine with whatever fits in the store? Lastly, is there a good resource to read/watch re: climbing form/technique tips? I’ve been picking some up just from watching/talking to people, but wondering if there’s a recommended source. Ty for any advice on the above! Have really been enjoying climbing again.
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2021 02:56
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 16, 2024 07:30 |
|
|
Thank you for all the tips and suggestions, I really appreciate it! The bandaid + movement tips are super helpful, looking forward to trying these out more soon. Ubiquitus posted:Do antagonistic workouts to help your wrist, and body. Push-ups, bench, shoulder press The pain is not really present normally, unless I use my other hand to push the wrist all the way down or up. Side to side is generally fine. I actually also notice the pain when doing pushups, but not when doing bench/shoulder press/rows/pull ups/any of the other exercises in my routine. I also notice it sometimes when I am attempting difficult routes -- I will work on being a bit more conscious about when it is flaring up. It's a somewhat sharp pain more than an ache, and usually stops after I stop doing whatever caused it pain, but sometimes it will persist a bit after. Usually once it has happened once in a session it is more likely to happen again later on. I've been doing a 3/week lifting routine for awhile which includes bench and shoulder presses, but got a bit lazy about it the past month or two, so I'll be sure to keep that up more carefully. I guess I could always just schedule a checking with a doctor on this, it felt excessive but maybe better safe than sorry given that I've got good insurance. E: also my elbow joint is hurting/feeling tight. Probably should just check in w a doctor and see what’s up/maybe climb a bit less often than the 4/wk I have been doing. tildes fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Aug 22, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2021 23:40
|
|
|
Any recommended stretches for like, my forearms? They’re getting super tight moreso than just tired after some climbs. I’ve been doing just 3/week along with sticking with general lifting + stretching beforehand and that’s made it feel a lot better afterwards apart from that. Also, any recommended short stretching routines I could do every day? It feels like flexibility is still also an issue for me when trying to do some of the harder (for me) routes, even if it’s not hurting anymore.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2021 01:12
|
|
|
KingColliwog posted:Why don't you like V6s with a big dynos followed by 2-3 V2 moves? How else would I claim my V6 climber status? 😬 hitting pretty close to home here. My technical highest difficulty problem completed is 100% just because I could do the first running start move, and everything after was v3ish.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2021 04:26
|
|
|
Apart from doing antagonist exercises like bench press to keep healthy, are there specific exercises which help for climbing? Obvi core I assume, but like for forearms etc?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2021 04:15
|
|
|
Ah good call re: yoga/stretching, my flexibility definitely could be better. Especially being tall there are some routes where it’s just hard to get to footholds etc. I suppose it is hard to imagine a workout which helps climbing but doesn’t slow recovery even more — with my current climbing schedule I’m already pushed the time between sessions about as low as it’ll go. Maybe will keep forearm things in the back pocket then if I hit a stretch where I can’t climb for some reason.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2021 08:49
|
|
|
For some additional context: I’m lifting weights 3/week as is for general health reasons, so I was mostly curious if there are eg one or two lifts/accessories I can tack on to that which would be useful. Not really imagining I’d start doing super intense climbing specific training, though I really should start doing yoga anyway for general flexibility. Idk if that changes anyone’s thoughts. Has been interesting reading! Also, when y’all are talking about weighted pull ups or system boards or hangboards, what level of climbing were you at when you started doing this? I imagine probably y’all were at a higher level than I am (v5s are pretty much my limit atm)?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2021 10:22
|
|
|
One of the public libraries near where I live is apparently widely known to be a V2 bouldering route to get to the roof and I’m very tempted every time I walk by.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2021 20:15
|
|
|
Has anyone hosed around with making resin climbing holds? I’ve semi gotten into resin casting recently and apparently some people do this, but I don’t really get if it’s similar or not. I’m not sure it has any practical purpose without a home climbing wall, but neither does making another set of dice/keycaps/tiny dishes out of resin so 🤷🏻♂️
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2021 08:07
|
|
|
Hi five to all the members of the 2021 first time climbing a v5 team.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 28, 2021 20:08
|
|
|
I have a few goals which are not at all hard to do, but I just need to actually go ahead and do them. 1) Start bouldering outside. 2) Start top roping at all, maybe outside. Then some more goal goals. I have no idea how reasonable the grade goals are but hey, only one way to find out (all indoors): 3) Lose 10lbs, and then stay at that weight UNLESS I’m super making progress on weightlifting. 4) Get it so that I can reasonably expect to do most v5s after just a few attempts. I’m not really at this point with v4s yet so this will be a journey. 5) Do a single v6. This seems incredibly impossible to me right now but hey, might as well give it a shot. 6) Stick with a consistent weightlifting routine 3/week, physical therapy those days plus the ones I climb. Eventually it would be nice to be able to climb more often - right now 2-3 times a week seems to be about the cap for recovery time/I’ve been told I’ll get tendonitis, but it seems like that’s something I just have to wait and see on.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2022 17:56
|
|
|
What are the biggest rock climbing shoe brands/makes? A size 13 tarantulace fits, but those are getting worn down and I’d like something more aggro. I tried a size 14 butora and size 13.5 Evolv X1 and both are distinctly too small, I can barely get them on and my toes are all entirely curled up to the point the front is like bulging on the top lmao. A lot of brands seem to just not sell anything larger than this, and they aren’t stocked in stores near me in this size often (even when ordering for In store pickup). It seems like Sportiva would be the best bet given that the tarantulace fit, but a lot of their models don’t seem to go above 12.5. Eg the solution 12.5 is the max tildes fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Mar 13, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2022 00:36
|
|
|
There’s a used hold sale at the gym right now and even tho I have zero chance of living somewhere that I could build a home climbing wall in for quite awhile I’m so tempted (Also ty for shoe advice! Going to see if the solution fits)
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2022 22:43
|
|
|
In the context of gym bouldering, how do y’all break up time between trying the very hardest stuff vs something else? I feel like I usually do like ~5 easier climbs maybe with pauses before holds etc and then spend the rest of the time just trying hard stuff (which for me are v5s or tougher v4s). So I usually end up only completing like ~1 of these routes per time I go to the gym but trying maybe ~3. Curious if there’s a more structured way to approach this- I’m sort of wondering if I am not using my time that efficiently by mostly failing/working on things longer term.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2022 05:38
|
|
|
KingColliwog posted:Depends. Thank you, this was helpful! I think I will try and integrate a bit more of this conscious structure in. Adding the hard problem repeat makes a ton of sense too- I do worry only doing stuff once and never again makes me not internalize what I learned.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2022 22:10
|
|
|
I have like the mildest ankle sprain in the world tho unsure why - it’s more likely to get sprained since it got really badly hosed up a few years ago, so I guess I wasn’t careful enough at some point. I guess I’ll be RICEing/checking in with my physical therapist again. Previously I was doing calf raises/spelling the alphabet with my ankle/a resistance band per PT recommendation. Wondering if anyone else has had particular luck with some other approach to helping strengthen a lovely ankle? E; rip us with the back to back injury posts
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2022 03:50
|
|
|
TIL on a Kilter board I am like a v1-2 climber tops- I feel like I’m just used to better holds on that level of incline? Or every gym I’ve been to has been seriously sandbagged or both. It did feel helpful though, going to try it more often but maybe on lower incline to start.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2022 03:28
|
|
|
Ubiquitus posted:Awesome thanks! I’m 100% interested in bouldering, and I’m near Union square so looks like dog patch might be my best bet? Dogpatch is 100% bouldering so seems up your alley if you decide to go to a gym- it’s like 20 mins away from Union square with public transit I think. If you end up in Berkeley outside you’ll also be reasonably close to Bridges in El Cerrito if you end up wanting to combine it with a gym. Haven’t been but it is rly well recommended. None of these are super close to other non climbing destinations tho so I guess it depends how much else you’re trying to fit in. asur posted:I've never been to any of the Oakland gyms and don't see any reason to visit. You should give pacific pipe a shot if you live in the bay imo. The scale of it is kind of crazy.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2022 00:26
|
|
|
Any Manhattan gyms for bouldering y’all would recommend? Ideally south of Central Park just given the rest of the schedule, but if there’s somewhere great elsewhere I’m interested!
|
|
#
¿
May 14, 2022 02:52
|
|
|
Ty for the Vital recommendation! The roof view was a pretty amazing background for climbing.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2022 12:36
|
|
|
In college they had a set list of problems from v1-13, and then each team tried to finish as many as they could, with the caveat that each person could only do one. I don’t think this would work for beginners necessarily, but it was a fun way to have everyone be able to contribute something and try to push beyond whatever grade you were at.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2022 02:10
|
|
|
Any recommendations for freestanding home wall plans to use? Interested in making a small freestanding spraywall, but nothing super crazy. So far I've found this set of plans: https://sites.google.com/view/climberdad/plans, which seem all right, but I'm not sure if there is something obviously better out there that I am missing.
tildes fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Jun 2, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2022 20:52
|
|
|
Ordering factory seconds online/getting used holds from gyms is really heavily tapping into the same psychology as gacha games for me. Real exercise of self control to not just get a million holds. E: Also on this, right now the plan is to use a black diamond mondo pad as the thing to fall on for our little outdoors home wall. Are old mattresses actually good to use for falling on? Trying to figure out if it makes sense to go find some of them instead/in addition. tildes fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Jun 17, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2022 20:16
|
|
|
X-posting from the DIY forum! (https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3944478&perpage=40&noseen=1&pagenumber=135#post524254666). I am puttering along with the planning for the freestanding wall, and I think have arrived at maybe the most idiot proof approach possible? But I am not sure - unsure if anyone has experience w this stuff. tildes posted:I am not sure this is the right thread for this, but I am making a homemade freestanding climbing wall and am curious for some advice.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2022 19:30
|
|
|
Yeah, the fact that no one else is using these does make me wonder if I'm overthinking how difficult making the frame is going to be (or that there is some reason they aren't good for this). I was planning to use 4x4s probably -- hopefully sort of equivalent improvement in sturdiness. I guess I'll be able to report how it goes in a bit.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2022 03:57
|
|
|
the butt detail on the fourth to last panel is just a+
|
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2022 18:02
|
|
|
Does anyone have recommendations for a good beginner hangboarding routine which is maybe 10-15 minutes (though if it has to be longer that's ok, my perception was just that short is usually OK)? I can't climb for maybe a few weeks to a few months, but would like to at least keep some finger strength. Normally I don't hangboard since I've only been climbing for like a year, so I'm not sure what is best to do. I have 30, 20, 15 and 10 (mm?) edges, but i am weak and have big hands so I really only use the first two. I've also got a slightly bigger one I use for pullups.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 18, 2022 19:45
|
|
|
bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:Me last night (rubbing hands together): ok time to send this problem and finally get to the next grade I would definitely recommend going to a PT at least once just to get a stretching/recovery routine if you’ve hurt yourself a bit. This is kind of a half formed shower thought, but I really feel that the harder thing to do is not giving it your full effort, but having self control/taking care to not push yourself too much + do the warmup/support exercises. I feel like it’s a form of willpower in physical activity which doesn’t feel like it’s emphasized as much as it should be. At least for me it was not that hard to really push myself with eg running to the point where I’d give a bunch of effort consistently, but so much more difficult now to limit myself/do all the boring support exercises. Probably doing the former when younger contributes to the need for the latter.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2022 20:33
|
|
|
I feel like you really can’t go wrong with strengthening your core, both for climbing and just general health in life, so why not? It can also be really fast- my impression is that there is not much benefit to doing a longer low difficulty/high reps core workout over doing fewer harder exercises, which rly makes core workouts such a minimal time investment. E: fwiw I do kneeling cable crunches/weighted incline sit-ups/ab rolling mostly - my impression is that lower reps exercises and progressive overload just like any other muscle makes sense? But also I’m mostly not doing this for climbing so much as holding my aging body together. Will definitely try the stuff below, sounds fun. tildes fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Sep 26, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Sep 26, 2022 17:29
|
|
|
Any climbing gym recommendations in Denver? It seems sort of hard to go wrong. Fwiw near the city center (civic center park) is most convenient for me.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2022 00:44
|
|
|
Ubiquitus posted:Any Chicago goons? Can anyone recommend me a gym for bouldering near downtown? Not from Chicago but I’ve been to maybe ~5 gyms there altogether and from what I’ve seen: First Ascent Block 37 is literally in the middle of the Loop and is probably the best bet? It was all bouldering and a small weight section iirc, but I liked the setting and it had a decent amount of square footage. I think that’s where I’d go if I was around the Loop/Chicago often. Movement Lincoln Park is like ten minutes north on the El- it had a bit more workout stuff. The actual bouldering was about on par or maybe a bit less good than First Ascent, with one big exception: it has a really sick roof section where the floor goes up at an angle to match the roof, so you can do this really long roof route without ever having to fall more than ~5 feet. Haven’t seen anything like it before and I think it’s maybe worth at least one visit just for that. Brooklyn Boulders West Loop also exists, but it’s not as easy to get to as the above i think, and I didn’t like it a whole ton.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 4, 2022 22:29
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:Movement opened a gym in Chicago? They are really expanding the gyms they own. Two gyms actually 👍🏻
|
|
#
¿
Nov 5, 2022 04:08
|
|
|
armorer posted:If it's someone you don't know, 100% let them do their own thing. If it's someone in your crew, or someone you don't really know but you've been projecting with for the session, 100% give them poo poo for every little dab. (Edit: unless they're new/newish. New folks get a pass.) Honestly people starting to jokingly give me poo poo more instead of being only verbally supportive was one of the main ways I realized I was getting better
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2023 20:38
|
|
|
Augster posted:The plan is to tape up my tips and give that move 110%, catching that crimp even if it rips my tips off. Getting secondhand concern for your tips from this
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2023 00:46
|
|
|
Re: shoes for super wide (or otherwise weird) feet, I would super recommend Acopa: https://acopaoutdoors.com/ They do half size/split sizes, and you can email them to talk about sizing beforehand/get exchanges for other sizes. Just way closer to getting custom shoes than normal, for not thaat much more.
|
|
#
¿
May 18, 2023 18:44
|
|
|
Is there a good super simple hangboarding routine? I seem to keep intermittently injuring my leg, so something I could do in weeks when I can’t actually climb would be great. Not really trying to go crazy with it, but at least retaining my finger strength would be nice.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2023 08:50
|
|
|
I’ve been doing hangboards on and off when I injure myself too much to climb, will try these out! I like the idea of sub max stuff you don’t need to be as worried about resting with.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2023 03:05
|
|
|
Baddog posted:Yes/no? I support it! Having a child in flip flops campus my project with zero effort is just part of the charm of climbing.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2023 22:26
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 16, 2024 07:30 |
|
|
Mezzanon posted:Can anyone describe why a tweaked rotator cuff feels like? I get light pain and a slightly reduced range of motion in my right shoulder. I hurt my shoulder relatively badly while mantling poorly awhile back. I got pain in certain positions, decently reduced range of motion, and it would hurt if I ever slept on that shoulder. It seems like yours is probably more chill than that, so I'm not sure if this is actually relevant. FWIW I found this to be very treatable by PT. The only routine I have saved with the actual names is from when I first got the injury, but then I did standing shoulder flexion wall slides and the standing shoulder posterior capsule stretch. This was mostly from when it was at its worse. Everything below here I am not sure if it will be helpful, but here is my attempt to describe what I was told to do: Then I worked my way up to a bunch of stuff with bands -- especially like starting with both hands straight out in front of me with a band between, and then pulling them out into like a fly. Or to do one where you start out with arms forward and out a bit, and then rotate your arms all the way up over your head and behind you, then all the way forward again, and repeat. I am sorry these descriptions are bad - I'm not sure exactly what the word is for it, but the idea was to sort of activate my shoulders/back before climbing in particular. I also did low weight military press. Even once the pain went away, my range of motion was smaller, especially reaching the injured arm behind my back. Instead of being able to get up to my shoulder blade it would stop somewhere around like the small of my back. To fix this I would gently stretch it by using a towel or band to be able to kind of pull it upwards with my other hand. To long term improve mobility I found the stuff this trainer did incredibly helpful- she would run workshops at my climbing gym specifically on joint strengthening/health for climbing: https://www.nhandiimanfitness.com/mobility-training-1. I realize the chances you live near her specifically are low (tho she also does online I think), but I think that the keyword for her type of training is functional range conditioning: https://functionalanatomyseminars.com/frs-system/functional-range-conditioning/. The URL makes it look sort of gimmicky, but I really liked at least her version of it. The idea is working on mobility, but also strength at the very edge of your mobile range, which felt very applicable to climbing. Doing her workouts regularly really made my shoulders feel so much more safe/strong long term when doing sketchy stuff. e: Also lots of shoulder CARS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvPBEieIsWw tildes fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Mar 12, 2024 |
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2024 19:52
|
|