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Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Does anyone know of ridiculously easy routes around Denver, or suggestions for particular places to look? I'd like to take my boy scout troop climbing - they are skinny little 13 year olds with no climbing experience, so I am looking for something equivalent to 5.4 or 5.5

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Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



I started climbing at a gym again after a year and a half break. Some guy said "nice" several times at my moves while I was traversing, and two girls who were bouldering 5.6s asked for help. Once I got over the "Seriously? Me?" in my head, it was pretty cool.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



spwrozek posted:

I appreciate the 7.50 bouldering at rock'n & jam'n. Still considering a monthly at the new movement in Denver though.

I'm pretty happy bouldering at Thrill Seekers. Movement's website is pretty light on details, is it worth the extra money?

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



I'm climbing V0s and 5.8s now. Will The Self-Coached Climber help me, or should I just keep climbing until I'm closer to 5.10s?

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



RabidWeasel posted:

I want to take a good hand repair / recovery solution with me for when my skin inevitably explodes into tiny shreds, any suggestions?

Bag balm

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Apparently some people are totally against belay glasses when lead belaying - what's the reason?

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



spwrozek posted:

If you are around for thanksgiving we are planning on going to shelf unless it is snowing like mad, with goons I think.

Psshh. Everyone is going to be climbing around thanksgiving. The smart move is to go to Shelf the weekend of the 14th. If its still doable, we might do Devil's Head instead though.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Got really annoyed at my belayer on Sunday, didnt talk to him about it :(

I took a take on the second to last bolt and he locked me off and sat down and looked off into the distance instead of paying attention to me. Granted, the roof obscured a fair bit of vision, but he just completely checked out. He didnt hear me yell to him so after two attempts at climbing with 6 inches of slack, I gave up and yelled to the ladies next to us to have him lower me.

Dissapointed in both of us.

Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Nov 3, 2015

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Awkward Davies posted:

I just got diagnosed with a mild meniscal tear and I might be out for 6 weeks. Fuuuuuuuuuckkkkkkkkk.

I took a lead fall and for some reason decided to catch myself knee first instead of feet first. I might be back after 3 or 4 weeks, wearing a knee pad. Injuries suck :(

Also there are some cool people who climb DBC Tuesdays.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Bud Manstrong posted:

Sorry, man. I've tried to break a lead fall with my shin bone. It went about as well as you'd expect.

If one of those people has a beard and brings a corgi sometimes, one of those people is me.

I'll keep my eyes out for corgis, I haven't noticed you before. I climb with the meetup weirdos.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Siamang posted:

I've heard a lot of people complaining about the Evolv shoe smell, though, and from my experience with synthetic materials + exercise, they tend to really reek.

My Evolvs smelled like rear end. I replaced them with Cyphers that I keep charcoal sachets in. I climb more than I used to and they still smell fresh

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Led like a boss tonight. I've been struggling mostly mentally with sending 10b routes on lead and did my first one tonight. Right after I led an 11a.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



I'm having a really hard time finding people to climb with in Denver. Facebook is trash and I'm still mostly sketched out by going outdoors with randoms for the first time. I guess I need to be less of a goony goon

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Ice is even dumber

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



My perennial advice for sport gear is:
10 of whatever draws from a major manufacturer that are on sale
2 single length slings
1 double length sling
70m rope (unless you consistently climb shorter routes), non dry, I like Mammut but any major manufacturer is fine.
A few lockers and a few non lockers
PAS - either a daisy chain or slings or whatever
12" (?) of 6mm cord for an autoblock
Rappel gloves

With that, you are equipped for leading many/most routes and cleaning. If you're not doing multipitch, the slings and biners can become alpines ad necessary (rarely for me) The double length can either turn into an anchor for TR or a seat/stirrup for hanging belay on multipitch.

In general, I think that cheap climbing gear is great. As long as it's rated, it doesn't matter if your draws cost $15 each or $7 each, they will still catch a fall. If the cost is worth it to you on account of smooth actuation or aesthetics, well, that's a personal choice.

Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Oct 23, 2018

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



[quote="runchild" post="489142143"]
PAS - either a daisy chain or slings or whatever - a Personal Anchor System is for clipping yourself to the anchors while you clean. Having 2 is a good idea. DON’T loving USE A DAISY CHAIN.

Sorry! I was thinking specifically of the Metolius PAS, I didn't realize that it was explicitly called that. Please only use gear rated to save your rear end if you fall on it. Also don't fall on a PAS, they don't stretch.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



I've been cutting lately in an unhealthy fashion, running anywhere from a 300 to 1200 calorie deficit every day. I wasn't climbing on the nearly fasting days though.

My pump has gotten so loving fragile. Before I could be getting tired and still put in another 30-45 minutes of effortfull climbing. Now, as soon as I feel it in my forearms I need to drop 2-3 grades and be done in 2-3 routes or I'll just peel off in the middle of a 10b that I have sailed up many times before.

I dropped 10+ pounds though, and I'm wondering how I will feel and train when I'm getting plenty of calories.

I'm so excited to go back to eating normally in a few days.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Cannon_Fodder posted:

This doesn't sound real healthy. Why are you pursuing this so aggressively?

It was a keto experiment. In general I found that I wasn't super hungry, and when I was, it was mostly ignorable and not particularly intrusive. Part of it was also that the experiment had a very real time limit - intentionally maxing out around two months - and I wanted to push it for what gains (cuts) I could.

I haven't been back to the gym yet, loving people and their 'well I might be at the gym at this time, hmu' responses to clear requests for committed plans for training...

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



I'll be taking a new leader outside soon and teaching her all the skills for sport. In the past I've taught how to rap after cleaning, but my thinking has evolved on the subject and maybe it's more appropriate - at least in the beginning? - to assume appropriate anchors for lowering and prioritize that. We will be climbing in Clear Creek which is very well maintained. I don't think I've ever had to rap there.

What is the current status of the lower vs. rap slap fight?

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



It looks to me like you need to heel hook the leftmost part of the volume near the point and layback while getting your right foot on the chip at the center of the bottom edge. Try moving your right foot down to the starting foot chip to establish the left foot, then go right foot on the volume chip?

It's possible I'm reading that completely wrong.

Edit: missed the video. I think I'm reading it correctly.

Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jun 4, 2019

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Sab669 posted:

That makes way more sense :) And yikes, those start to get expensive fast. How often do you need to replace stuff? I mean, obviously if you're climbing 3 days a week every week all spring - fall you'll replace it much more regularly than once per month... But I imagine the "tether" on the quickdraws / rope itself will eventually start to fray over time?

Soft goods have a lifespan, sure, but that lifespan is measured in years. Draws will last several years easy. Ropes can last that long too if you don't store them near solvents and take big falls regularly. I think there are formal guidelines on when to replace ropes, not sure.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



I like the megajul which you can also rap with, but I think every single strand assisted brake device is roughly equivalent. I don't like grigris and would advise against buying one, but I've also not put in the time to get the muscle memory down for lead belaying with them.

In other news, I sent the roofed 10d at the gym that I've been projecting for 3 weeks.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



spwrozek posted:

Grigri's are good and the best assisted device of the all. Completely worth the money for the reliability and ease of use.

Sorry, this is bad and wrong. Grigris use a mechanical camming device to brake assist. Mechanical devices fail.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Make one of those dumb videos where you use an ice axe and tricams to traverse your kitchen cabinets

Edit: I've seen images. I want the real HD deal.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



I have a long backpacking trip planned in 2021. I dont know if I'm going to start up at the gym again whenever they open, just so I can be super anxious about getting sick while struggling my way back to where I was in terms of climbing fitness and then as soon as I get there take months off and lose it again. I might not climb until the end of next year :(

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



The PCT

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Having a solid lead head outside is way harder.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Easy multipitch is super fun. There's an 18 pitch 5.9 in Washington that's on my tick list.

Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Aug 10, 2020

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Taking a single fall for a lead test has a different effect on a rope than and whipping on a rope multiple times in rapid succession for falling practice. Also just from a numbers standpoint, there are likely to be more unsafe catches/falls if there are more lead climbers taking falls. That's probably a real business/insurance concern.

Falling practice is great and everyone should do it, but I can see it being less than desirable from a business/liability perspective. I saw people starting a route at a gym in CO on half ropes, and the employees asked them to stop for (supposedly) insurance reasons. A gym is literally the best place in the world to practice climbing on half ropes, but business.

Edit: To be fair, only 1 of the 5 falls in the original post could be even considered a whip.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



I used to climb in Prana Zions. They make a different one thats identical fabric but slim fit if that's your jam. I like them, and I still use them outdoors. But in the gym I just climb in whatever $5 thrift store pants are my current favorites.

I'm the only guy in the gym who climbs in wide leg, flowy linen pants. gently caress the haters.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



If you're giving a top rope belay, a power grunt when you give your climber a dyno assist is also acceptable.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Blackhawk posted:


I think the experience reinforced to me that my 'ideal' climb is a really long but really easy multi-pitch. I love getting out on the rock and having big exposure in beautiful places but I'm not so keen on really pushing hard to scaring the poo poo out of myself.

I don't know when I'll ever get out to Washington, but there's an 18 pitch 5.9 that I'd like to climb one day.

Royal Flush was pretty fun, although my buddy didn't drink enough electrolytes and turned into a zombie on the walk down

Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 13:18 on Jul 5, 2021

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



You only need, I dunno, 5 feet of tail for clipping practice. Ask around Facebook or your local gym if anyone's got a retired rope you can have a chunk of. Alternatively, lots of places sell cordage by the foot. Find the chunkiest cord you can and or braid a few of them together to approximate a climbing rope diameter.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Just like in many regions its acceptable to to put in bolts for sport climbing, some local land management groups are ok with pneumatic tubes for pooping.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



alnilam posted:

Is there a good way to take info for an area from mountain project for offline access?

Like, for looking at the info on a phone while at the area

You could have a three ring binder of MP printouts, like I saw a couple people with. Really thought it was odd, but hey, whatever works for you.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



I went to the gym yesterday for the second time since COVID started. Wow am I out of climbing shape.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Before this past week, I have gym climbed once since COVID started. I got two gym sessions in this past week and was about to reactivate my membership, when my city announced that it was ending the mask mandate.

I am not reactivating my gym membership :(

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Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



I've barely climbed since COVID. I went to the gym and did an hour of bouldering on Monday. It's a good thing I don't care about any of the gymbros judging me as I muscle my way up a V1!

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