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ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


I moved to Denver, joined the new climbing gym with the tallest walls in the country, got shoes and a chalk bag, and am going bouldering tonight for the first time. I am also in my late 30s with bad flexibility so I am prepared to suck.

Am I doing it right?

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ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002



poo poo

Help me do it better

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

Make sure you have fun

Will try my best

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


spwrozek posted:

There is a bunch of cool climbing people in Denver and some not. I don't think any goons climb at Earth treks Englewood though. But yeah, just have fun. That gym is cool.

What a loving blast that was. Failed on this 1.2 a bunch and want to scend it badly.

I could have stayed for another hour or more easy but had to go :(

Edit: Oops v2

ShaneB fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Oct 11, 2018

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Hivemind: I want to get some quickdraws to begin sport climbing. After some insomnia reading last night, it seems the go-to is the petzl spirit xpress. I found them on gear express for like $17-18 which seems great, only a few bucks over the Djinns.

That being said, is there any real reason to get anything else for sport? I think trad is a long while off and I'd likely just rather have great sport and great trad stuff separate in the long run I wager.

Also, what lengths do I want to get? A friend was suggesting just getting some alpine draws for longer needs. Do I want 6 shorter 6 longer, 8 and 4, etc?

Also: rope. For basic beginner sport do I care about dry? I figure it's not necessary and adds a ton of cost. Suggestions on length and a go-to good rope?

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Happiness Commando posted:

My perennial advice for sport gear is:
10 of whatever draws from a major manufacturer that are on sale
2 single length slings
1 double length sling
70m rope (unless you consistently climb shorter routes), non dry, I like Mammut but any major manufacturer is fine.
A few lockers and a few non lockers
PAS - either a daisy chain or slings or whatever
12" (?) of 6mm cord for an autoblock
Rappel gloves

With that, you are equipped for leading many/most routes and cleaning. If you're not doing multipitch, the slings and biners can become alpines ad necessary (rarely for me) The double length can either turn into an anchor for TR or a seat/stirrup for hanging belay on multipitch.

In general, I think that cheap climbing gear is great. As long as it's rated, it doesn't matter if your draws cost $15 each or $7 each, they will still catch a fall. If the cost is worth it to you on account of smooth actuation or aesthetics, well, that's a personal choice.

cool i know what like 3 of these things are so time to read more about poo poo i have to buy.

but in all honesty thanks for the feedback and assistance.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Hauki posted:

and down the rabbit hole we go

:shobon:

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Moosejaw is giving 30% store bucks back and I'm really close to getting the Mammut Infinity Dry and using the like $80 store credit to finishing up the locking biners and slings and poo poo I need to finish my sport climbing rack.

This is, like, a totally good idea right? :|

edit: awwh gently caress the 30% seems to be gone

ShaneB fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Oct 31, 2018

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Yeah I've been about 190 the majority of my adult life, and for a brief period got down to about 170. I remember that feeling drastically different. Then I slowly crept back up to 190ish and stay here all the time.

Now that I'm climbing, this weight is feeling like a curse... I really want to get back down to moderately lean so I'm not hauling these extra lbs up a wall.

And runchild is right, just count the drat calories and get a drat scale. When I was busting my rear end I essentially ate no carbs during the week, and from Friday night to Sunday morning would eat whatever I wanted. It worked great and was a totally necessary mental break.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


jiggerypokery posted:

Being lighter is definitely better for climbing, but getting lighter is definitely worse for training and it's a poor trade off. A good training session > drilling bad, lazy habits because your hungry.

Not sure this is an either or situation.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Very real in here atm

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


I'm gonna brag for my dude Hauki and congratulate him on sending (and basically flashing) his first 5.10a indoors last night. We've been climbing a lot since we caught the bug and I'm proud of him for continuing to be slightly better than me.

I definitely am noticing small incremental growth in my own climbing, too. I was able to send a particularly annoying 5.9 for the second time after failing a bunch on it over the previous weeks, and get a V3 boulder problem first time that I had only sent once before, even after having done a lot of climbing already that night. And I made a lot more progress on a challenging overhang V3 that I think I can get next time.

TL, DR - climbing is fun, feeling like you're getting better is fun.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Hauki posted:

I wanna go back again today, but I think that's a Bad Idea after two consecutive days of climbing already

you fried son

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


spwrozek posted:

Where do you guys climb?

Also nice job Hauki.

Englewood Earth treks. It's awesome.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


spwrozek posted:

I am at Golden ET. I still haven't made it over to the new gym.

Come on in one weekend for a marathon day and show us some stuff.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


spwrozek posted:

I will let you know. I spend most weekends up in Dillon now that ski season is going but I am sure I will be in Denver sometime.

I'm trying hard to avoid getting into skiing.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Thinking about nabbing a bouldering pad during holiday sales.

Opinions on best "all-around" type pad? I'm eyeballing the Drop Zone but hear the padding wears out quickly.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Happiness Commando posted:

My perennial advice for sport gear is:
10 of whatever draws from a major manufacturer that are on sale
2 single length slings
1 double length sling
70m rope (unless you consistently climb shorter routes), non dry, I like Mammut but any major manufacturer is fine.
A few lockers and a few non lockers
PAS - either a daisy chain or slings or whatever
12" (?) of 6mm cord for an autoblock
Rappel gloves

spwrozek posted:

Good advice. Here is my personal recommendation though.

2 six packs of BD Posiwires with a 20-25% off coupon (rarely do you need more than 12 on a 30-35M pitch)
70M rope for CO, I prefer dry as they feed better, fuzz up slower, I use my ropes for all kinds of stuff so I go with BI-Pattern.
2 small skinny lockers for cleaning, 1 spare D locker
PAS is good (not a daisy chain, that is for aid climbing)

Assuming you have harness and a belay device you are good to go.

Always lower, never rap (especially at Boulder Canyon, Clear Creek, Devils Head, Shelf Road, etc). Donate $100 a year to the boulder climbing community for the hard wear maintenance.

Can you help a bro out and give me a shopping list for Cyber sales?

I have a set of draws with Hauki so we are set there, and he nabbed a rope on sale recently.

Beyond that, what slings and such are needed for creating anchors would be great to know.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

IMO if you don't know what you need to build an anchor you should take a class on building them. They're straight forward but you gently caress up people can die, not something you want to learn on YouTube.

Yes, I do not plan on dying.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

Great, please don't.

Seek out in person instruction, doesn't have to be a formal class but you should build a bunch of them under supervision until both you and the teacher feel really good about it. You're gonna make some dumb mistakes when you build your first ones - everyone does - and doing it on the ground with someone to troubleshoot is the difference between the learning process and ending up in an accident report.

Trust me when I say I am a True Goon who overly researches and prepares for everything possible. I appreciate the advice for sure. I have a mentor who trad climbs and gym resources as well. I will not kill myself or others.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


I had 6 or so days off due to the holiday and family stuff, and last night felt incredibly fresh. I was climbing as hard as I ever have been and never got pumped, and even after attempting routes that, for me, were about the top of my ability I felt ready to go again after some short rest. A route that had, a few weeks ago, been out of my abilities was now an easy warm-up.

This makes me think I am either doing something wrong with my recovery or that longer rest periods are just generally good sometimes. I'm leaning towards the former. As I'm hitting my late 30s, I've definitely found that my body is generally shittier. I'm hoping that getting back on the creatine/beta-alanine/BCAA supplementation will be enough recovery help without going into supplementation overdrive or psuedo-science.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Sharks Eat Bear posted:

How’s your sleep usually? That for me feels like the most important factor in recovery and that fresh feeling

7-8 every night. It's one thing I do well.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Suicide Watch posted:

I'll be in Chicago for an upcoming weekend, wondering if there are any good gyms to check out?

There's a big First Ascent in the Avondale neighborhood. Heard good things.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


jiggerypokery posted:

Maybe you do too much in your average session. No heard of creatine being used for recovery, what makes you think it's a good way to go?

It's more just part of an overall performance package, to be honest.

Also nice Red Dwarf av.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


jiggerypokery posted:

Do just train with it and stop taking it before a trip to drop the water weight or do you keep taking it?

There's not really that much water weight in my experience. I'd rather have the muscle endurance and ATP reserves, as I get wiped.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Ubiquitus posted:

This isn't something I've personally researched, but I'm hoping someone else has.

Are glucosamine chondroitin supplements useful for preventing/healing tendon injuries?

I know they are marketed more for dealing with joint health, but I can't imagine they are harmful . . .

All the science on them is same as placebo. I'm honestly surprised they are still considered effective.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


My wife is getting going with climbing and inherited an old unused pair of shoes from like 10 years ago. They are solid looking beginner shoes, but are still 10 years old. Is the rubber usable? Should I like sand off an outer layer of hard stuff?

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Sweet. Free shoes good. No more rentals at the gym!

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Ffffffff that sucks man. Was looking forward to climbing with you soon.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Hauki posted:

they only had the vapor Vs left in bizarro sizes though, which I suppose is just as well because I need a lot of other things before I need a new pair of shoes

I did get a decent gift card to REI for Christmas so I’m trying to get a shopping list going for other gear

More draws and bouldering pads my lad

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


I'm working there with other chonks. Trying to go from 198 back to 170ish, eventually. That will take awhile, but at least I'm back to 193.

Also I bouldered the other day for the first time in awhile, as I've just been top roping. I flashed 2 new v3s and cleaned another, which was new for me. I am now sore and reminded I need to boulder way more.

ShaneB fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Jan 17, 2019

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Partial Octopus posted:

The instincts fit like a dream. Thanks for recommending them.

Since I'm doing pretty much just gym bouldering and gym lead climbing, should I look into the VSR or would you guys still recommend the VS?

Also, how much do the VS break in? They feel a bit tight in my left foot and I'm not sure if I should bother sizing up or not. I went with half a size below street size.

Do you have a wide toebox or just wide foot in general?

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


I feel kind of frustrated that I've already more-or-less plateaued at being able to climb every V2 boulder problem but maybe 33% of the V3s, and every 5.9 but maybe 15% of the 5.10's. I feel like I've been here for 8 weeks or so. The only growth I've felt in that time is being able to get a single 5.10 that was bugging me after failing it 5x or so.

I kind of thought just keeping at it would make me better, but I think my lack of technique is letting me down even more than my generally average strength/fitness, and it's awfully hard to learn technique when you don't know what you are supposed to be doing in the first place.

What are the best ways to push through plateaus?

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


M. Night Skymall posted:

Climbing V7s and V8s that are actually V7s for years now crew checking in..

At 8 weeks you just need to climb more, there's no secret technique or strategy that will unlock some hidden ability. You just don't have enough mileage to be good at climbing. Basic strategies for breaking plateaus:

Wire routes you can already do so they're super smooth. Rethink how you do each move on them, make it efficient. Stop and try moves that feel awkward different ways, different feet, shift your body. You want every move to feel as easy as possible.
Do boulder problems that are near your limit multiple times in a row so you're forced to try to do the same moves when you're more tired so you find more efficient ways to do them.
You can try the various skill drills but I never liked those, they also weren't much of a thing (or I didn't know about them) when I started climbing so maybe they'd have helped me then and I just didn't know it.
Work individual hard moves on climbs you can't do, just jug up to it or whatever you need, set up for it and then try. Over and over until you get it. If you can't do it try using a slightly better foot, make one hand hold easier, can you do it now? Honestly this is totally not necessary at 8 weeks but it can be helpful.

Can also help in general to up frequency, I personally find it really hard to improve unless I climb 3+ days a week, with the best results on 4-5. Remember climbing's a skill sport and the best way to improve is focused practice on making yourself more efficient in your movement.

This is good advice. The pleateau is maybe 8 weeks but I've been climbing for maybe 4ish months. Still not a ton, no.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


At what point should I start thinking about upgrading my shoes from the noob friendly scarpa origins I have? I don't wanna throw money at shoes that aren't going to help me more than just practicing, but I think I could deal with something less comfortable if they perform better.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Slimy Hog posted:

I've never heard anyone say that they on-sighted a gym bouldering problem, and instead have heard flash more often. Is that a my gym only thing or does the community as a whole not say on site for gym problems?

Never heard it for a gym problem ever.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


George H.W. oval office posted:

Speaking of silly sport here’s a fun video of Honnold reviewing movie climbing scenes.

https://youtu.be/R7qSiEKntQA

He is surprisingly charismatic for a guy I originally heard described as Autistic.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Anyone seen/checked out the new Drop Zone pad to compare to the older one? I can't imagine it being WORSE but you never know. Good sale at backcountry right now and I am itching to get on some real rock ASAP.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Also Alex Megos has been showing up to the Englewood CO Earth Treks a bit lately. I watched him lead a 5.13c like it wasn't anything the other day, and now I need to spy on him boulder at the moment.

Working from the climbing gym is fun. I need to do this more often.

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ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Sharks Eat Bear posted:

Exactly when and how much of a limitation it will be may vary from person to person, but my guess is that for most, over-reliance on static climbing would start holding you back around the V4/5.12 level.


Even V3s "at my gym" (the mantra of all climbers, right?) very frequently seem to require some kind of dynamic movement. Or at least do for me, as my static movement isn't great with my lack of core/rotational strength.

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