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Walked
Apr 14, 2003



armorer posted:

I was hoping someone would spruce this up with some pictures. Thanks for that!

And thanks to Cybor Tap for putting up the new OP!


Now a question for folks:

How is the climate control in your local gym? In my gym it is ice cold in the winter, and extraordinarily hot once you get 10 feet off the floor in the summer. I am wondering if this is the norm given that there is a lot of open space to deal with, or if my gym is just lousy in that regard.

I get that at mine. It's much more pronounced in the summer with the heat than in the winter with the cold, though.

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Walked
Apr 14, 2003



henne posted:

To jump on the hangboard discussion, anyone got recommendations? I've got 10+ years experience an am stating to climb hard again after a few years break from training. Taking it slow and smart with the training but I'm beginning to look at boards. Thinking of the DRCC V5.12 board which I've heard from people can be taken to 5.13/v9 with shims pretty easily. Anyone used one? I've got access to prodeals on metolius, EP, So-Ill and a few other companies but I'm not really liking what I'm seeing, though the EP kine board looks interesting.

I just got the DRCC board the other week. It's awesome as gently caress and I'm very impressed.

Walked
Apr 14, 2003



I'm headed to the LA area next week for work. I'll have my girlfriend in tow which means climbing is a possibility.

Is there any decent outdoor sport available in the LA area? We'll have a car, so driving is no big deal. Needs to have a reasonable bit of 5.7 - 5.9 stuff for her. Prefer not to toprope as its woefully inefficient to do with two people climbing at different grades AND I dont really want to haul that much gear across the country for it.

edit: Echo Cliffs looks good on mountainproject; confirm/deny?

Walked fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Mar 21, 2013

Walked
Apr 14, 2003



Manstrocity posted:

Haven't been to Echo Cliffs, but I'll throw out a recommendation for Malibu Creek State Park. It definitely has some softer routes and there's a couple of top-rope anchors, but most of it is sport.

Cool, thanks.

Is there any good LA area climber's coalition or club that's easy to hook up with if I want to find a group to hook up with for a day? We've got PATC (Potomac and Appalachian Trail Club) out here in the DC area which is great; anything similar that way?

(Or goons who want to hook up first week of April?)

Walked
Apr 14, 2003



seventeen posted:

I went to an indoor facility on Sunday and bouldered for the first time in my life. I can't believe how much fun I had. I'm going to be signing up for a monthly membership through them and I've got a lot of newbie questions.

How many days should I give my muscles to heal when starting out? I used to be a gym rat and swore by the every other day method.

Are there any exercises or stretches I could do away from bouldering that would help improve my ability and strength? I noticed that though I had the strength and flexibility to get through some runs that my grip was poor and my muscles fatigued easily.

I wish I had got into climbing earlier. It's definitely the most fun I've had exercising


Timing varies depending on the person. I think most climb between two and four days a week, but there are definitely a few people at my gym who do more frequently. Listen to your body, and dont overdo it while starting. Bouldering will gently caress up your hands for a while. Generally I dont like to climb more than two days in a row and more than 4x/week.

Yoga for the stretches and exercise question. Otherwise climbing helps climbers. Endurance on those muscles will improve with time and more importantly - technique.

Dont gently caress with hangboards or campus work anytime soon.

Walked
Apr 14, 2003



i81icu812 posted:

Both Malibu Creek or Echo Cliffs are nice and pretty convenient to LA. Bouldering also an option at Stoney Point

Looks like my project got delayed so I will also be around next week. Unfortunately I won't have the opportunity to fly home this weekend so my gear is pretty limited, but shoot me an email (username @ gmail) if you'd like.

Awesome. Ill shoot you an email when I get home. I've got plenty of ropes and draws so I can cover that side if you have your harness/etc

Walked
Apr 14, 2003



I'm looking to buy a set of hexes - I've only ever used the black diamond hexes, but in googling some reviews it looks like slinged hexes are a bit more versatile and higher reviewed.

Looking at the rockcentric set with backcountry doing 20% off one item. Anyone have any input beefore I buy? I'd love to test out others, but there's only two guys I've followed with any frequency.

Walked
Apr 14, 2003



canvasbagfight posted:

Climbing my weakness of severe overhangs via 4x4 routine and resting on the wall has been amazing.

As I'm getting more into outdoors climbing, I'm looking into getting some decent approach shoes. I think I'm down to between the 5.10 Guide Tennies and La Sportiva Xplorers. Yes, I realize I probably don't need them. I still want them. Any thoughts? Am I missing a good alternative? I'd love some Gandas but I'm just looking to get my feet wet, here. Castle Rock was fine, but Pinnacles had a lot of hiking both to and down from routes with a lot of sketchy terrain for my sneakers.

I have the Scarpa Crux. They're GREAT and pretty fairly priced. Guy a climb with wears the Xplorers and seems to love them equally, so I think you're good to go regardless.

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Walked
Apr 14, 2003



SaltLick posted:

Finally getting lead climb certified at my gym next week so that's exciting. Now I just need to find a consistent climbing partner. Bouldering is fun, but I'm getting frustrated at my lack of progress. Granted I've only been climbing for about 2 months now. How fast did it take y'all to start climbing 5.10/V3s consistently?

I dont want to be cliche, but it doesnt matter how quickly it came to someone else. Focus on your own progress.

I found the transition from 5.9 to 5.10 far far more tedious for me than the transition from 5.10 to 5.11+

Probably due to technique being more focal and being able to just muscle through becomes more difficult. Stop stressing about your progress relative to others and just focus on being better and having fun.


edit: Leading will help immensely.

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