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Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
The Self-Coached Climber is free for Kindle.

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Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
It's region specific and only works on US-registered Kindles.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
Denver Bouldering Club. Or rent/borrow a car; there's excellent bouldering in Morrison, Evergreen, and Boulder.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

spwrozek posted:

Did send major Tom though which was good.

A7-v1 though still alludes me....

pull harder <3

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

spwrozek posted:

Also trying to throw together a last minute trip down to Shelf Road before ski season gets going.
When were you thinking? I've been thinking about a weekend down at Shelf after we get back from the Red.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

spwrozek posted:

It seems like a good place, the Golden one is pretty sweet.

My planned schedule looks like this:

Monday Night Climb
Tuesday Night Yoga
Wednesday Night Climb
Thursday Night Drive to Vail
Friday Work/Ski
Saturday Ski
Sunday Ski

Basically I need to be able to get the climbing and yoga in Monday to Wednesday to make it worth it. Also need to find a partner or two willing to go to the gym.

I'll burn out my punch pass there. Not sure how many I've got left.

Oct. 31 would probably be better for me for shelf, but let me know either way. It's always fun to have a big group to hang out with at the end of the day, even if you're splitting up climbing.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

gamera009 posted:

Gotta wait for Budmanstrong to bring my cots back from the red. :negative:

holy poo poo that was fun :smug:

Probably had the most fun on Gettin Lucky in Kentucky - classic, perfect pockets and plates - but everything was a blast. Stayed in Muir Valley for a week, and I don't think we even scratched the surface there.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

MiamiKid posted:

Muir Valley is excellent, particularly the wall that Gettin' Lucky is on. Great 10 wall. The climbing is so dense and accessible in the valley, although I will suggest you did yourself a slight disservice in not getting to the PMRP for a day. Some fantastic climbing in the low/mid 10's there. Heading to the Red again this weekend to work on some routes that have been dreams thus far. Really looking forward to it, assuming the forecast holds up.

Yeah, that wall and the crag right next to it had a load of fun 10s. Really fun, really representative of the area.

Lots of "should haves," I know. I really wanted to get to PRMP; there were a few four star routes there on my get-on list. It just worked out that we stayed in Muir. Like you said, it's a little hard not to. One of us had been before, but even then there wasn't a lot of experience with the area. I'll definitely go back next year sometime. It's a 16-hour drive from here, but it was worth it.

Good luck this weekend.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
Let me know. I've got punches at ET and I'm up for trying the new Movement. Still love me some DBC, though.

The weather may be crap for this weekend, but maybe not for SHELFSGIVING.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
Harness chat.

It's time to retire my old harness, so I picked up a Petzl Adjama last week. Hung in it in the store and everything, and it felt great. Took it out this weekend for a couple of days and discovered a couple of problems that made it less than ideal.

Use would be sport climbing, about 60/40 outdoors/gym. Weight isn't a huge consideration; just no big wall rigs or super light alpine setups. I've been trying on harnesses the last couple of days. I'm leaning towards the Mammut Togir Slide - nice gear loops, fits well, comfortable, reinforced lower tie-in point - but the retailer doesn't allow returns or exchanges. I get it, but I'm hesitant. I didn't discover the issues with the Adjama until I got to climb in it.

I've always had friends recommend Misty Mountain, and I like the idea of supporting a smaller company who makes their gear here by hand. I'd definitely shell out for one of the harnesses if I could try it first. No one on the Front Range stocks them, though, which seems insane. I called Misty Mountain today, and they'll return or exchange harnesses if the harness is just tried on.

Anyone have any other recommendations? Cost isn't a factor (read this as "I'd pay for dead bird if they make the best harness out there"); I kept my last harness for 6-7 years, and I'm planning on the same. Anyone climb in a Misty Mountain? I'm thinking about the Sonic, or maybe the Bolt.

Also considering the Edelrid Orion; I might be able to get one on pro deal.

Bud Manstrong fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Dec 2, 2014

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

Headhunter posted:

Everyone has been describing it as 'free climbing' but my understanding of free climbing was that it was climbing without ropes? Can someone explain to me how what these guys did was different to normal lead climbing? I've only ever bouldered so have no idea!

Bloody impressive achievement though, without a doubt.

Free climbing is your standard sport/trad climbing. Ropes are used only to catch falls. This is in contrast to aid climbing, where you'll use different devices (aiders, daisies, ascenders, etc.) to get through tough parts. The Dawn Wall was aid climbed a long time ago. This was the first free ascent.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

Sound_man posted:

I'll be in Denver on the 26th and would like to get some climbing in. Is Movement Denver any good? Any Denver goons want to get some mid day climbing in? I have dinner plans that night but will be free all day.

Movement is great. Go there if you're downtown. If you're in the suburbs, there are a few other gyms that might be closer. I'm working that day, but we've got a few other climbers downtown who might be available. Have fun.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
Yeah, the Momentums are fine harnesses. I had one for entirely too long, and it was comfortable and well made. No problems with it at all; go for it.

Just got a Misty Mountain Sonic, and I love it. Comfortable as hell, light enough, made in :911:. I dig the gear loop design. They sit vertical, but they hold gear a little out from the harness when they're loaded. The loops are a little thin, so it can be tricky if you're trying to pull a notch-gate biner quickly.

I tried an Adjama. It fit great in the store, but after a weekend of climbing, it definitely wasn't right. Leg loops just didn't work for me. If the leg loops are comfortable to sit in, go nuts. It's a great harness.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

Speleothing posted:

^^ Balm ^^

I've had a Momentum and an Adjama. The adjama is much more comfortable, but I definitely agree about having to cinch it down way too far.

The cinching and resulting imbalance of the gear loops is one of the reasons the Adjama didn't work for me, so third on that, I guess. The other reason is that no matter how I adjusted it, the leg loops destroyed my gentleman's region. So there's that.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

chami posted:

Those cheese grater callus shavers work wonders. I think there are narrower ones that can help you out.

This:

http://www.amazon.com/Microplane-Colossal-Pedicure-Rasp-Foot/dp/B008A1TI4K

A thousand times this. There are smaller ones that do a better job getting the ones that form at the top of the palm, but this thing is amazing. And horrifying.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

IrvingWashington posted:

Amazon warehouse deals have some decent reductions - http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dwarehouse-deals&field-keywords=climbing+shoes - I got some open box shoes for around $25 recently, and some nice Scarpas for the missus. Or look at the closeout sections of most manufacturers, e.g. http://shopfiveten.com/C-45/Climbing - if you're lucky with the sizes you can find some great deals that way.

Sierra Trading Post as well. Order through the app for free shipping, and there is always a code for at least 35 percent off. If there isn't, wait for one.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

pac man frogs posted:

Anyone have thoughts about Sportiva Katanas? Thinking about getting a pair to complement my Mythos for better toe edging.
I've owned Katanas, and they're great shoes. If you want an edging shoe, you want Miuras.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

henne posted:

Deny. It adds a lot of friction when catching a fall but doesn't lock up to the same degree as a grigri. I find that with no hands holding a climber it will slowly creep rope through, though touching the rope will cause it to stop creeping. It certainly is noticeable when catching a lead fall when compared to an ATC though.
Agreed. It's also very on/off as far as lowering or rapping. It's great in theory, but it doesn't really live up to the potential.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

spwrozek posted:


Looking at dates for my trip to Ouray in August I hope. Have to work on a crew for that one still.

holla

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

spwrozek posted:


Also it is agreed by all us plebs that those problems are cray and much harder than V3-4.
Pleb. Second. Honestly it's much more about the warming up than anything else. Most of those moves are finger and/or shoulder intensive, and my broke down-rear end body needs some warming up before I ask those particular parts to do anything too interesting.

Also, I think the problems on your wall are closer to outdoor 3-4 than gym 3-4.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

spwrozek posted:

Rock and Resole in Bolder CO is were I send mine.

Two-day turnaround if you're local!

Miuras. If they fit, buy Miuras. I also really liked the Oasi, and I can get good pricing on them if you do too.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

Fixit posted:

the rule they should be uncomfortable

This is not true, especially for new climbers. They should be snug, but not uncomfortable.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

Tots posted:

Is tying into top rope bolt anchors doable/safe with static rope instead of a sling?

A bolt hanger? Like this?

No. What kind of anchor do you mean? Static rope is fine for setting up a top rope, but don't put anything soft through a bolt hanger.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

spwrozek posted:

Crimps for life. Sloppers are the worst.

jug life

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

Save me jeebus posted:

I highly recommend practicing clipping in all four configurations (outward facing gate left hand, inward facing gate left hand, outward right, inward right).

http://www.climbingtechniques.org/clipping-bolts-on-lead.html

I actually just set up a QD on the back of one of my dining room chairs and practiced clipping for a few hours every night in front of the teevee.

Agreed. I'd add clipping on a free-hanging (not resting on a wall or chair) draw. You'll be surprised how much you rely on having a wall behind the draw to hold it for clipping.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

Siamang posted:

I dunno...climbing hard 4+ days a week as a beginner sounds like a lot of wear on the joints and is pretty much how I got elbow tendonitis.

Yes. So many people get stoked on climbing right away and destroy their fingers, tendons, and elbows by going as hard as they can right out of the gate. We're just not built to do that. Hell, I'm pretty sure we're not built to do this at all.

Did some bouldering up at Guanella Pass today. We got rained out, but we managed to get on some fun stuff.





Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

IrvingWashington posted:

There's a crazy good sale on at Gear Coop at the moment - you need the link from the email they sent out though:

Here's mine

It's not an affiliate code, I promise. They have a bunch of 5.10s at 50% off, and most La Sportiva is 40% off, as well as other gear. I was bummed because I bought some used Team 5.10s from Amazon but the sizing was way smaller than I'm used to from 5.10. Then I found some Hiangles for less than I paid for the Teams, and they're gonna get here just in time for my trip to take the kids bouldering/top roping next weekend. I almost bought some Dragons too, but I can't quite justify another pair of non-velcros right now :(

Hey, thanks for this. Bought a new puffy.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
I really dig my Misty Mountain. Neptune has them to try on. They have the best selection around if you want to go hang in a bunch of em.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

spwrozek posted:

Says the guy who apparently only boulders now....

Want to come work my 12a project with me this fall? I think I picked a good one. Should have trained more though.

[bicycle excuse 5B]

Happy to come out and work it with you if I've got the weekend free. Just holla.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

spwrozek posted:

I rope climbed there and thought MP was OK. I have a hard time using MP for bouldering most places though. Not sure which book is good. Red rocks is really cool climbing though. Enjoy!

I think when you're bouldering somewhere new, you just have to accept that about half your time will be finding the problems and complaining that the topo or line photos look differently in that light/planetary alignment/whatever.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
I'm going to be down a hand for the foreseeable future. Probably at least another three weeks. I'm doing one arm dead hangs and core work. Any other ideas?

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
that's a really specific smiley

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

compton rear end terry posted:

Never been up to Colorado. Is it possible to boulder in the Denver area in early March or is it too cold?

I assume it's pretty easy to rent pads up there? Suggestions for good V2-V3 climbing spots in the area?

Depends. March and April see the most snow around here, but usually it's doable. The Morrison boulders are climbable year round on the north side in the cave, and March might be okay for the Dark Side (south side). If you're lucky, Three Sisters will be clear. It's about 35 minutes from Denver, but there's a ton of good stuff in that range. The Satellite Boulders are up in Boulder, about a half hour drive and a nice 20-minute approach hike up a hill to get you warmed up. They're usually climbable in March; gamera009 would know better than I would. I usually don't make it up there til April or so.

Denver Bouldering Club rents mats, and if the weather is garbage, it's a fun gym.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

turevidar posted:

Hey CO goons, I might be interviewing for a job in Denver. What do people go for bouldering? I'm assuming everything is snowed in - would I be able to hike around and check things out at least?

When are you interviewing? There's a storm coming in today that'll leave some fresh snow most everywhere. I mentioned a page ago or so that Morrison's north side "cave" is climbable year round even when it's snowing, but the problems are polished as hell and everything is massively chalked. I've sent everything in there I think I'll ever send, but it can still be a good experience to climb and drink coffee (and/or whiskey) in a sheltered cave while it's snowing. I don't love climbing below 40 unless the crag is sun-facing; I tend to hurt myself because I can't feel my fingers anymore. Otherwise you could just drink beer and climb indoors. Three Sisters has enough stuff that's sheltered and overhung that you might be able to climb if you're really interested and it's not insanely cold. The trick will be hiking there; it can get pretty snowy. It's usually good a couple of days after a storm, after the snowshoes and fatbikes have packed it down a bit, and it's a nice hike in any case.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

Happiness Commando posted:

I took a lead fall and for some reason decided to catch myself knee first instead of feet first. I might be back after 3 or 4 weeks, wearing a knee pad. Injuries suck :(

Also there are some cool people who climb DBC Tuesdays.
Sorry, man. I've tried to break a lead fall with my shin bone. It went about as well as you'd expect.

If one of those people has a beard and brings a corgi sometimes, one of those people is me.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

FiestaDePantalones posted:

I too have a beard, climb at a gym, and have a corgi. Are you my brother?

It's not outside the realm of possibility. You could also be me, and now my head hurts.

Happiness Commando posted:

I'll keep my eyes out for corgis, I haven't noticed you before. I climb with the meetup weirdos.

I don't know them necessarily, but I'd probably recognize you guys. Feel free to come say hi or spray beta or something.

Bud Manstrong fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Jan 8, 2016

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
Black Diamond is recalling a bunch of biners and runners. Check your gear.

http://www.climbing.com/news/black-diamond-carabiner-and-runner-recall/

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
It's crazy to wait to test that high. I'd want climbers to learn the fundamentals of leading as soon as possible before they start going outside, but not until they've gotten a solid foundation. 9/10a seems reasonable because the gyms can set overhung routes with cleaner falls. If you wait until they climb 11b (even inside), you're losing a lot of time. I completely agree that the best route is to find a mentor, but there aren't enough trad graybeards to go around :(

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
Call Rock and Resole. If anyone can, they can.

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Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

turevidar posted:

It's happening, I bought my first piece of trad gear today. In a few short months I'll grow a potbelly and beard and my transformation will be complete.

may I interest you in a pair of Keens and some spring/summer 2016 white tube socks

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