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pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

modig posted:

You might bet better localer recommendations, but I think Hueco Tanks is in Texas and it is definitely one of the premiere bouldering destinations in the US. They only allow a limited number of people into the area per day, so look it up and plan ahead.

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Jasper, AR is just 9hrs from Houston, probably closer than Hueco and has a ton of sport and trad. Wichita Mts. Wildlife Refuge in Oklahoma has climbing too, only 7ish hours away. I'd choose HCR though.

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pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

B3dl4m posted:


On the subject of auto belays,I will not climb on one no matter how many times i've checked myself. I can't yell at that thing to TAKE when i'm tired or unsure about my move. They just frighten me.

I'm the opposite, I like that I don't have the crutch of taking to rest so I have to send the route in one go, and the ones at my gyms (Vertical Endeavors) work in a way that if you fall on a sketchy move, you are just slowly lowered to the ground. I don't use them all the time but they are lifesavers for when I just want to run laps or practice a little early in the morning.

EDIT: Also, our autobelays have alarms that sound if you go more than 8ft up or so and are not clipped in.

On a different note, got to ice climb for the second time today! The Minnesota Climbers Association partnered with a local town the last few years to get permission to install an ice farming system in an old quarry (there is some natural flow here but the farming makes it a really great spot. They also have a bunch of bolted rock climbs here, and most of the flows have bolts at the top for easy anchors too, so it's a really great place to learn ice climbing.

Warming up on the "bunny hill"


Rapping down the "bunny hill" after cleaning or anchor


On to the real deal!


The guys that run the farming have also been experimenting with LEDs embedded in the ice. Here are some results so far:

pbpancho fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jan 20, 2013

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

spandexcajun posted:

Awesome pics! I would love to get more into ice but it is pretty intimidating. I have been 3 - 4 times top roping with the Colordao Mt Club. I have been looking for some tools on craigslist. I have pretty much everything else I need. I think I would feel good setting up topropes on ice, I have set up a few v-threads for practice and trees are abound. I know a few places in Colorado to try to go, but most ice climbers here are secretive, not enough ice to go around and all that. Leading on ice.... that will have to wait a few years or forever. I started leading trad last summer and it's more then enough to get the old heart going. Leading ice, talk about nerves!

Yeah, there's no loving way I'll be leading anytime soon. Luckily we have Sandstone Ice Park (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sandstone-Ice-Park/318485004840616) about an hour and a half north, and it's very convenient with bolted anchors you can set a toprope from for 90% of the climbs there and it's all piped up to farm ice so as long as it's cold we can climb(there's another part of the park with a bunch of sport lead climbs for the warmer months too). There's also some short stuff in the Twin Cities themselves, and plenty more up on Superior.

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Here's some pics from an ice climbing outing this weekend. The guys that run the ice farming at our local park buried ropelights in one of the flows, and haul a car battery out now and then to light them up. Really cool experience, and no headlamp needed!





This one is lit by the bonfire as well

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Got to do my first-ever trad lead today! It was just a slabby 5.5ish corner crack but it was still pretty cool. I'm out in Red Rock Canyon with a couple buddies and tomorrow we're tackling Cat in the Hat, at 650' 5.6 multipitch! I may even give the 50' 5.5 pitch a shot at leading, we shall see!

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

evol262 posted:

It depends where you're going to be.

Taylor's Falls (an hourish north of the cities) has a lot of variety and a wide range of grades, but it's crowded as hell, especially on weekends (or whenever school's out).
Barn Bluff (near Red Wing -- an hourish south of the cities) also has a lot of variety, but it's a little further away, routes take longer to get to, and it's a lot of tiny holds on limestone.
Willow River (near Hudson -- 15 minutes away from the cities if you're on the east end) is much harder routes with less variety, but it's an easier drive and not nearly as well-known, if you can hack the routes.

Failing that, there's a Vertical Endeavors. Or stop by Midwest Mountaineering and ask for advice - there's actually a reasonable amount of places to boulder in the city.

Taylors Falls has climbs on the MN and WI side though, and it's usually not TOO tough to find a less busy spot.

Willow, Barn Bluff, and Sandstone MN are the only sport climbing options.

3-4hrs north of the cities is the north shore of Lake Superior with some really amazing climbs, especially at Palisade Head or Shovel Point.

4hrs SW is Blue Mounds, a ton of quartzite routes

3.5hrs into WI is Devil's Lake, more quartzite

I'll likely be spending Memorial Day weekend in South Dakota in the Needles and such, drop me a PM if you'd like to know more, I'll be headed out there with a bunch of Meetup climbers and friends.

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Went to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch this weekend, did a little night climbing and brought my camera and 100 glowsticks along...




pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Spent last weekend climbing in the Black Hills of South Dakota. At Mt. Rushmore, the Needles, and Spearfish.









On the summit of Spire One


Definitely need to go back. Lots of easy but really exposed trad like we did on Spire One, and Spearfish was amazing for sport.

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Teeter posted:

I've seen these prices thrown up in discussion here before and it's made me wonder why things are so cheap given how expensive the cost of living can be. It should at least be comparable with the Bay Area but hey, I'm not complaining.

I just consider it absurd because I pay $28/mo at Hangar 18, and that gets me in to any of their FIVE gyms. There's only two of them that I'm close enough to visit regularly but it's awesome nonetheless to have a constantly fresh problems to work on. Threshhold in Riverside is $35-50/mo depending on options, and Rockreation is $50/mo or so. I suppose I'm spoiled overall but that $75 is a lot to me compared to the alternatives here so I don't know what the draw will be aside from a new facility and the Sharma name.

Yeah, in Minnesota we have 3 Vertical Endeavors locations that I pay $32 a month for (I did get the 1-year membership on sale, but it's an annual sale so I'll always pay that lower rate). $100ish sounds nuts!

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

modig posted:

Going into your story I thought you were this guy. I'm glad you weren't that guy.

Yall should strive to avoid being that guy, unless you really and in a bad situation, then definitely call rescue, but try not to get into horrible situations.

What a bunch of goddamn morons.

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

modig posted:

You know, I've heard this about slab falls, but all my actual slab falls have been totally chill. I've never taken a bit slab leader fall, but like a 6-8 foot fall has been fine. Has anybody actually seen the dre aded cheese grater fall?

Fell at least 30ft at Joshua Tree, on an insanely runout slab. It wore the toes of my shoes to nothing, tore up a knee without tearing my pants at all, and wrecked the forearms of the hoodie I was wearing. I was very glad I wasn't in short sleeves. Slid perfectly on my toes and forearms the whole way.

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Save me jeebus posted:

They take a few seconds to engage. So you're freefalling a bit before the mechanism kicks in. They take some getting used to, well, for me they did anyways.

Not all of them do that. The Nicros (I think) ones at Vertical Endeavors have a gentle upward pull all the time and lower smoothly. I would not like ones that took a second to engage!

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Sigmund Fraud posted:

No climbing vacation for me and my main climbing buddy this semester due to incompatible schedules. :( Buuut me and another friend might go on a 3 week car trip centered on California in June. I've never been to the US so which crags would you recommend? It wouldn't be a dedicated climbing trip but we could perhaps squeeze out 5 days at one crag and a couple at some other. We'd be looking for sport pitches in the 6a-7b range (font).

On another note I think we should be posting more videos!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvJK5IuS5Z4

If you're after sport Red Rock Canyon outside Vegas has plenty. Joshua Tree has some sport as well, and bouldering. Yosemite and Joshua Tree have TONS of trad though.

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

LarryCsonka posted:

At every gym I have been to you need to bring your own rope to lead climb. They may have some loaners if you want to pay to rent them

The gyms in Minnesota don't let you bring your own rope. Lead and topropes are provided.

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pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Endjinneer posted:

What? So what do you do with your old ropes if you can't use them indoors? You know, the ones so furry you could wear them as a scarf? The ones that handle like a rusty bike chain.

Yeah, I wouldn't climb on those indoor either... Hammock hanging and dog leashes so far.

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