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French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


I've been trying these out (girlfriend gave me one) on my sore fingers between problems at the gym, and it's kind of a nice sensation.

I'm quite sure the benefits are not nearly what they're made out to be, but it does seem to loosen up my finger a little bit each time I use it. It's a given (at least for me) that when your finger hurts you'll usually be massaging it by squeezing the painful section, so this kind of does the same thing but in a more even manner. Looks like an evil cock-ring but you're just supposed to roll them back and forth along the section of your finger that hurts. If you have a torn such-and-such, of course seek appropriate medical attention instead.

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French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


spwrozek posted:

I would guess you are gripping way too hard.

When you eventually get into harder problems you'll only use your finger tips anyway, haha!

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


PYF chalkbags: http://www.yamaclimbing.com/index.html

She's a friend of mine, but they're really durable and the closing mechanisms work very well. New designs are posted all the time and she can do custom stuff.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


The best recovery method is a whole bottle of wine to yourself in the hot springs near Bishop, CA.

With snow on the ground.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Headhunter posted:

'sup climbing thread.

I've recently started going to a bouldering gym in my area and I think this is probably the most fun hobby I've ever had. I've been doing this for about 6 weeks now and I'm starting to hit a wall (heh) with my progress. I can't start problems that begin with an overhang and holds that aren't jugs. Is there anything I can read to help me with this or should I just suck it up and start asking people at my gym for tips?

6 weeks is not a very long time. I imagine you'll get over that issue pretty quickly, poor technique or not, so long as you keep climbing. Still, if your gym is like most gyms, people are pretty helpful. See if you can ask someone for advice when they're working on the same problem or on a problem right next to it, so you don't have to pull him or her away from what they're currently working on.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


My gym got broken in to! :( I think they used a large vehicle...

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


modig posted:

Went to the Reel Rock opening last night. I feel like some of the energy from earlier years was missing, but it was still pretty cool.

Movies include:
Making fun of Daniel Woods vs some badass japanese climber I'm too young to have idolized. Then they go climb together. Funny but I felt like the mentorship part of the story was forced, or just not actually shown very well.

I remember from last year's reel rock there was one about Sharma and Ondra teaming up to climb. Sharma wants to relax and climb at this stage of his life. Ondra only cares about climbing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stQhEZn4RE0

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Wor posted:

Hello climbing thread. Is it too soon to bring the ice climbing and mixed climbing stoke to the thread?

The early season is only a month away in the Canadian Rockies... and usually a 3hr walk is involved, but that's all part of the fun of chasing early season ice. Sharpen those tools and crampons!

None of us are gnarly enough to ice climb (also there is no ice climbing in Southern California). I thought about it once but realized that if I can barely trad climb maybe I ought to avoid ice climbing for now. I do own some crampons for general mountaineering however.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Wor posted:

Your general mountaineering crampons may not be up to the task, but it depends what type of 'pons you have and what boots they can fit on. Generally a stiff boot + rigid crampon combo is the best. The flexible crampons designed for summer mountaineering will cause your heels to lift, front-points to shear through the ice, and instant hilarity on top-rope.

Yeah, my crampons aren't step-in/auto either. They're just regular stainless strap BD crampons. I do have Sportiva Trangos that are pretty light and step-in/auto compatible so I could eventually go that route if I needed to.

Have you been to one of those fancy ice-climbing gyms? They look pretty awesome. Also, do you know a crazy Russian guy named Constantin?

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Southern California climbing season has officially arrived...post your rock climbing destination transportation:




Seats 7 comfortably, 10 uncomfortably, and everyone's crashpad/gear regardless.

French Canadian fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Sep 30, 2013

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Nifty posted:

A few pictures from bouldering these past two weekends at the Palm Springs Tramway, in Southern California

Oh, wow there is snow up there already. I stopped going to tram after I did a sequence of trips one particular year. Got kind of tired and people kept wanting to just project the same routes. Also hate that loving tram music. Fuuuuuuuuck.

Are you new to that area? It's pretty cool in general. Something-something Head of the Dragon is a rad V3/4 and Swing Dance (V7) gave me much grief. I don't think I could ever repeat that latter route. Too sharp. The Cube (V5) is fun to try with no right shoe since you can downward toe hook with just your big toe.

Also got stranded up there once from a broken tram. Everyone had to sit up at chalet and wait for about 3-4 hours, and eventually we started buying bottles of champagne from the bar and getting free ice cream and snacks (the operators saw people were getting cranky) and having an apocalypse party. We determined that Russia dropped nuclear bombs and everything below us was destroyed.

French Canadian fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Oct 15, 2013

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


So uh...who's heading to Bishop this Halloween weekend?

A lot of people at my gym are gonna be out there. Weather looks pretty awesome, with a good high/low temp spread. Might be windy, but no forecast of it. I think the weather system should be burned out by mid-week.

I intend to attempt Disco Hulk (V8) but I don't know if I will succeed. Acid Wash and whatever variations are on it are on the list, too.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Here's a neat panorama of me standing above the Sads in Bishop! From this last weekend...

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


jackchaos posted:

The season for squeezin is upon us already. So post your proj!

I'm looking to get moonraker, soul slinger, and maybe checkerboard. Huzzah Bishop!

Acid Wash right, stand start. Ugh...I keep blowing the last move.

Also Action Figure and Pow Pow (even though I hate it...it's so easy to work on).

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Kefit posted:

If only I wasn't a weirdo introvert with social anxiety issues who considers himself lucky to have friends at all :P

But seriously, yeah the best times I've had at the gym have been when I've joined an impromptu team up to work a tough problem together. Maybe I should properly introduce myself and learn some names next time that happens.

There's plenty of people just like you at the gym.

My favorite climbers to hang out with are the ones that stay particularly modest about their own climbing ability, good or bad.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Ingenium posted:

Been having a issue for a while now when I climb. While I am fine for the majority of moves, if I ever hold myself to the wall with a arm bent to have my hand below my nipples and my chest pulled into the wall, I will feel a sharp pain shoot up across my shoulder when I release. Does anyone know what is causing this and anything I can do to fix the issue?

Lots of stretching before climbing? There are some nerve-related stretches you can do too. Pretend you're holding a tray of food like a server at a restaurant, and while keeping your palm facing upwards, rotate it inwards and under your bicep until your arm is basically reaching straight out and away from your side, and your palm is still facing upwards. Then tilt your head slowly to the left and right and you'll feel a funny little sensation along your neck down through your arm. Do it while standing up!

It's kind of weird but it definitely stretches that region pretty well if you're delicate about it. It's also amusing to imagine people reading this post and doing it at their computer.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Caf posted:

I have my first bouldering competition this coming Friday and I'm starting to get excited.

Any advice?

Really take time to read the problems beforehand, try not to go first on a problem, make sure you have a spotter so you can go full bore, make sure to warm up prior.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


My non-scientific observation suggests that gyms with pads that need to be moved around create more diligent outdoor boulderers, such that they are used to spotting and getting pads in the right place. At my gym, which has a fully padded floor, people rarely spot you unless you ask. I definitely noticed a paradigm shift when said gym opened shop, because a majority of us moved from an older gym with pads, and afterwards it was pretty obvious that we got a little lazy about spotting and pad placement when climbing outdoors.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


4R7 THi3F posted:

Wait, so on some of the paths that I have seen at my gym, you are supposed to use a foothold as both a handhold and a foothold. Does that mean I'm reading the route wrong???

You can do whatever you want...I've never seen a route set that literally prohibits using certain holds for hands/feet/etc. But there will be an advantage to using holds as intended by the setter.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Chris! posted:

It doesn't feel really bad or anything now, just has a soreness if I raise my arm above shoulder height, and I can feel a slight "grinding" when I do that - again, not agonising or very pronounced, so I don't think I've torn anything, but I'm really pissed off about having to have more time off :(

Maybe some swelling is causing things to rub together in a more pronounced fashion. Just go get an MRI or x-ray or whatever they'll give you so you don't climb on an unknown injury.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Chris! posted:

Thank you all for your replies and advice regarding my shoulder injury. I was going to book a doctors appointment, but the injury was on Sunday morning, it's has felt better each day and now (Wednesday evening) it feels perfectly fine - there's no grinding or soreness at all, through any range of motion.

I'm thinking of just taking 2 weeks off and as long as there are no issues in that time, just taking it easy after that. Does that sound sensible?

Just go to the doctor anyway if it's cheap enough co-pay. And yes, more time off is better. A month is pretty reasonable, but you might consider moderate PT exercises (that your doctor can advise upon) during this downtime.

Eat Bum Zen posted:

So I need to work some kind of finger-flicking motion because somehow tendinitis has migrated down towards my wrist. Do you all just use rubberbands or your own hang as resistance or what? I can still boulder v2/3s, but if my forearms are sore at all it translates to some terrible pain if I try to latch onto a pinch or a sloper or god forbid I slip off any kind of curved surface.

For some reason the same kind of problems don't exist when I top rope, but that could just be because the nature of the movement is a little different and my forearms are staying pretty warm throughout the climb.

The rubber band thing has worked for me. Putting it around my thumb and whatever fingers I choose and then doing open-hand motions.

You might consider one of those spinning powerballs. They're pretty nifty, too. Maybe you're not warming up enough, either?

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Baldbeard posted:

Ah so stoked. I had a terrible day at work, and decided to do an impromptu climbing session before going home to crash. Somehow with no caffeine and work jeans, I managed to complete some projects I had been working on earlier in the week. I ended it recording myself doing some routes, but then soon learned how cellphone video of indoor climbing looks super lame and easy, so here's some stills instead. All about dat heel hook.


I recognize that emergency exit door, but I don't quite recognize you...

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


When I started bouldering I had crippling elbow pain in both elbows when I got to V3s (about a year's time). I think my joints just didn't know what the gently caress. Now it's mainly my fingers that bother me, 6 years in.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Colonel J posted:

Is it better to go boukdering every other day or are some consecutive days ok?

Even every other day is kind of pushing it for me. I would say if you're new to climbing, don't do consecutive days. Let your climbing muscles develop over 6 months of every-other-day climbing. If you do a followup day, maybe consider focusing on the training boards or core exercises or something. Does your climbing gym have a classic gym section? Mine does, and there are usually core classes (or even yoga classes, which are great for flexibility) that you can take.

French Canadian fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Mar 18, 2014

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Off to Bishop this weekend! Anyone else gonna be out there?

I'd like to accomplish something in the 6/7/8 scale but I'll probably get shut down.

Maybe something in the Ice Caves in the Sads...there's a cool 10 that didn't seem to bad when I tried it.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


jackchaos posted:

Beef cake get some!

It was a different one, that starts in the same spot but goes right along an overhanging arete. Maybe not a V10?

Also Disco Hulk...that would be rad.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience



Nifty but I wish it were more detailed. Maybe it will be in the next Reel Rock film.

Side note, I sent Acid Wash V7 in Bishop this weekend!

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


deck posted:

The rightward high start, or are you triple-downgrading the full leftward line.

Both answers seem plausible :)

The rightward-heading stand start, indeed. Tried the v9 sit start addon afterward since it's only an extra move or two and I had good beta, but the crazy drop knee kept blowing off. Maybe next time.

I do know the leftward v10...a guy was working it while I was there. A bit beyond me right now!

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Evolv stink is exactly why I switched to Sportivas.

I try not to upgrade but rather resole these days. Unless I actually go through the underlying rand...

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


tynam posted:

On an unrelated note - got my lead cert! :toot: Sent my first 5.10c on lead on the glorious ice cream cone, which felt drat good. Now I just have to hope they add more 10s to that wall, or break into 11s somehow.

Nice. Sender One is a pretty awesome gym. Went to the opening a while back. But the bouldering pads are so dang hard it hurts my knees to drop off the top!

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Sizing number depends on the brand, but dropping three sizes from your street shoe size is a lot. I think I run a size below on La Sportiva but evolvs run equivalent for me.

But yes, outdoor climbing typically benefits from a half size bigger than what's in ideal in the gym. You're in those things for a much longer period of time.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


PYF bouldering slang:

Sun's out, guns out
Spoons, not forks

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Solly posted:

I'm looking for some new shoes since apparently you don't need to break your toes to have an effective climbing shoe any more. Are these shoes with padded heels as much of a gimmick as they look? Seems like the padding wouldn't last that long and it would make using your heels more difficult.

I think that's Mad Rock? Some of their stuff seems gimmicky I think
But if that shoe fits and feels the best then just wear it. My choice for comfy shoe is the La Sportiva Mythos. Only shoe I've never needed to take off to give my feet a break. Having a non-painful shoe also let's me focus on the climbing at hand and rest on footholds more easily.

French Canadian fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Aug 3, 2014

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Speleothing posted:

It's not just stretching to your foot, it's also getting sweaty and losing it'd shape overall. It will stretch out of shape because there's nothing holding the leather in shape. If you buy them, you must get them at least two, possibly three full sizes down. This is essentially the minimum to get a power position out of your foot. Unlike a modern design which will have an appropriate curve and stiffness, and will use its rubber to hold the leather in shape.

I would only recommend the Mythos to a new climber if they were super-dedicated to multi-pitch, crack climbing, on a strict budget, and had funny shaped feet.

Try on more shoes. Look into the Tenaya brand in particular.

I think the general consensus amongst myself and friends who have Mythos is that they (and many leather upper shoes) stretch out about 1/2 to perhaps 1 size from what you bought them at. I don't think they'd stretch 2-3 sizes. A new climber shouldn't get them because they're really nice and your less than stellar footwork will burn out the toe quickly.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


I've been lazily climbing indoors twice per week for about 6 years and currently manage V7 indoors and sometimes outdoors. I think climbing more would just result in injury so if I want to get much better I'll need to do climbing-specific training.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


ConspicuousEvil posted:

Do you climb outside too? If not, more than 2 days would definitely not result in injury if you're careful. You should be able to climb at least 4 days a week safely with your foundation.

I only climb outdoors in the spring and fall, mainly because there is skiing and cycling to do in the winter/summer. I mainly feel like my fingers don't recuperate fast enough for the difficulty of stuff I want to work on if I were to climb more frequently.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


ConspicuousEvil posted:

What's your pre and post climbing routine like? It could also be that you've just plateaued in terms of finger strength and need to start a hangboard routine.

Just warming up on easy stuff when I get to the gym. No warm down which I know isn't ideal. I should get a squish ball or other finger thing to squeeze on during my drive home.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Puseklepp posted:

For indoor bouldering, how many warmup climbs do people do before attacking the problem route of the day?

Zero I just fist bump myself crack my knuckles and start pulling down and screaming.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


pokie posted:

Speaking of which - what is a reasonable number of rest days?

I typically climb in the gym 5 days a week, 4 of which are 1-1.5 hour of bouldering and one is 2 hours of leading. I rest before and after the leading session.

I think climbing more than two days in a row is a bit much (unless you're on a climbing trip and you're pressed for time). You might even find that you perform better with a rest day every other day. But I'm almost 30...

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French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Mad that below the knee prana mojos don't exist anymore! Anyone got a stretchy long short recommendation?

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