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jackchaos posted:Super excited to be involved In a setting clinic with Timy Fairfield at the end if this month. Are you an Albuquerque local? Not often I find Albuquerque goons, let alone those that climb.
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Feb 6, 2014 06:05
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I've been lurking quite a bit in this thread and have noticed some odd trends. It seems like there's a lot of misinformation being disseminated here, mostly about injuries and training. First of all there are a few different types of holds that can cause injuries and those injuries are not all the same. Tendon injuries typically occur while pulling on pockets and, less often, slopers. There are lots of tendons in your hands and arms. You could pull on a pocket too hard and pop a tendon somewhere in your forearm, or just in your palm. The most common injuries are actually to the annular ligaments and less often the cruciate and collateral ligaments in your fingers. These occur from stress the tendons put on the ligaments while closed-, or even half-, crimping. I think it's really important that anyone posting up here asking for advice should first give us a rundown on how hard they climb (only so we understand what suggestions might be most helpful), how many years, and what they already to for training in addition to the specific things they want to improve. I would be more apt to chime in here and give my $.02, for whatever that's worth, if there was more background being given. Seems like most people are assuming everyone asking for advice is a beginner, which may be a fairly safe assumption, but not always the case. On a lighter note, I'm going to Joe's in a couple of weeks. Anyone else got some good climbing trips planned?
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Mar 4, 2014 01:56
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Baldbeard posted:That's a good point. "Ligaments" and "tendons" are sometimes used interchangeably here and by a lot of climbers in general. I think because both do not traditionally 'strengthen' as regular muscle would, both take much longer to heal than muscle, and both need different care for rehabilitation than muscle. I think the assumption that most questions come from beginners is that the question most often asked is, "What kind of exercises can I do to increase my grip?, and it's usually presented like, "My grip is really holding me back!". I totally agree, and I want to make a point of saying that I generally agree with 90% of what people are saying here. But I think the idea that "hangboards are bad" for beginners or people who can't make it to the gym a lot is incorrect. There's absolutely nothing wrong with using just about any type of training tool if you're doing it in a well-informed and regimented way. With the small exception of campus boards, there's way to use every training tool with a minimal amount of risk. Even a campus board, however can be used properly while minimizing the risk of injury, but I agree that it's a lot more difficult to do and takes a bit more experience to use effectively. If you're a relatively new climber and want to know what else you can do besides just climbing to get a little better I think it's better to ask and get some useful information rather than be told you shouldn't be doing it. It's better if we can steer people in the right direction rather than let them try and figure it out on their own and increase their potential for injury because they don't know what they're doing.
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Mar 4, 2014 02:47
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jackchaos posted:So I have a question as far as injuries go. It's not so much of an injury as much as a tweak. Little background I guess I climb 4 times or so a week, specifically bouldering. I boulder at around v8-9 and I have found out of the blue when I heel hook with my left leg there is a sharp pain in the pit or back side of my leg. Wondering if it just needs to be stretched out more or what. Do you stretch your legs before you climb now? If not, then I would definitely suggest stretching your hamstrings and doing butterflies stretches before you start climbing. If so, is the pain located at your knee, or somewhere else in your leg? if it's your knee then you could have some IT-band issues or something else related to connective tissue, like tendonitis.
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Mar 4, 2014 21:36
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crazycello posted:So I'm a novice climber with what I think is a minor A2 pulley injury on my ring finger. At what point should I be looking to hop back on the wall? I have pretty much full range of motion in the finger without pain when it's not under load, but for example, if I hang off an object there is slight pain, and my hand with the injury opens much much slower than my good hand after holding on a grip. Couple of questions. First: Was there a distinct move you injured it on, if so how, or did you just notice it after a session? On a scale of 1-10 how badly does it hurt, especially when you push on it with your finger? Does it hurt when you grad a particular kind of hold, but not others? How badly does it hurt on that kind of hold? What are you doing to help it recover already?
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Mar 27, 2014 02:10
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crazycello posted:I didn't notice it until after a session so I can't answer if it was on a distinct move. Then I went out and climbed on it another session because I thought, "Well it's just the lower digit of my ring finger", which was probably a bad idea. Luckily, it doesn't seem that much worse off. No worries, that's good info. First off, I've had many pulley injuries anywhere from slight strains to full-on ruptures. I will say every time I hurt myself it was from improper warming up. I will also say in preface to this advice that I come from the Dave MacLeod school of injury rehab. If you don't know who he is check out his blog. In terms of rehab, massaging with heavy pressure is good. When you're massaging it should hurt, but your range of motion, especially with serious injuries should improve after. The idea is that you're breaking up the developing scar tissue. You should also be icing it to decrease inflammation. I usually take a bowl with ice and water and do 15-20 minutes twice a day. Lastly, you should be stretching your fingers. on the injured finger hold your thumb at the base of the finger where it joins the hand at the top with your index finger on the palm side of the injured finger. push the finger back until you feel it really stretching. Then move your thumb and index up to the next joint of your finger and repeat for all three joints. This should also be done every time before and after climbing. Finally, not climbing is the most recommended rehab advice given and in my opinion the most misguided. If you can climb without serious pain, then climb. Be really careful with your warm-ups, NEVER close crimp in an uncontrolled way. And climb until you feel a low level ache, and don't climb above that level. I think the reason people say don't climb is because, at least for beginners, it's very hard to climb in a controlled way that will help them rehab, but not prevent injury. I've tried both climbing and not climbing for rehab. In my experience, not climbing does help the injury come back to 100% a little bit faster and I mean only a little bit. As for climbing while injured I've noticed it takes slightly longer for the injury to return to 100%, but my climbing is back at a much higher level than with not climbing. Just be overly careful and conscious of what you're doing to warm up, what you're doing while climbing, and to recover.
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Mar 27, 2014 17:04
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benwards posted:I've got a really thick flapper because, like an idiot, I didn't file my callus down. Anyone use superglue to take care of one of these? I've heard it's a decent remedy, but haven't ever tried it. My remedy is usually clip it off, new skin, tape. I got a flapper right before a week-long trip to Joe's. The day after the flapper happened I was able to put new skin on and with tape, climb on it the next day with no pain.
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Jun 12, 2014 04:19
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SaltLick posted:Spraying new skin onto my heel after breaking in some boots on a 3 mile run is probably the worst pain I have ever felt. Like acid burning my skin. Sure did help though! Hahaha, yea it definitely doesn't feel good depending on the depth of the cut, but that poo poo works wonders.
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Jun 12, 2014 18:46
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FreakerByTheSpeaker posted:I finished my class series and can't wait to start climbing regularly. I haven't been this excited about picking up a sport since I got back into cycling, and I'm thinking of getting a hangboard to train at home since my old door frames aren't shaped well for using a pullup bar. What are your goals in relation to climbing? Obviously if you're new, you want to improve on some level, but how much of your life do you think this will consume? One day a week isn't much, to be honest. You're going to plateau pretty quickly once you learn some technique. What are your lifting goals? Most climbers I know don't do much with weights and when they do, it's very climbing specific muscle groups. Where's your cardio at right now? If you can run a mile in 7-8 minutes I'd say ditch the cardio as it doesn't translate to climbing improvement in most cases. Obviously cardio is nice for general fitness and that's important for sports in general, but your climbing most likely won't improve with more cardio unless you're really out of shape to begin with. If you're already interested in getting a hangboard (which is awesome), I highly recommend you read the Anderson brothers' book "The Rock Climber's Training Manual." It details training programs for every level of climber and they don't poo-poo the idea of hangboarding when you're a beginner.
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Aug 26, 2014 21:33
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French Canadian posted:I've been lazily climbing indoors twice per week for about 6 years and currently manage V7 indoors and sometimes outdoors. I think climbing more would just result in injury so if I want to get much better I'll need to do climbing-specific training. Do you climb outside too? If not, more than 2 days would definitely not result in injury if you're careful. You should be able to climb at least 4 days a week safely with your foundation.
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Aug 27, 2014 03:52
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French Canadian posted:I only climb outdoors in the spring and fall, mainly because there is skiing and cycling to do in the winter/summer. I mainly feel like my fingers don't recuperate fast enough for the difficulty of stuff I want to work on if I were to climb more frequently. What's your pre and post climbing routine like? It could also be that you've just plateaued in terms of finger strength and need to start a hangboard routine.
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Aug 27, 2014 20:04
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French Canadian posted:Just warming up on easy stuff when I get to the gym. No warm down which I know isn't ideal. I should get a squish ball or other finger thing to squeeze on during my drive home. Yea those grip deals don't do much of anything. You want to make sure you've got something that's fairly systematic with your warm-up i.e. starting at V0, doing at least one or two of each grade up to your project grade and being sure to climb things with different hold types. If I know I will have to be closed-crimping later on (more applicable to outside), I make sure to get on something vertical with good feel and go through the different crimp positions at a hold with steadily more and more off my feet. When you get home stick your fingers in an ice bath for 10-15 minutes, ideally you should do this more than an hour after you work out and, if you can, do it once some other time in the day. I usually just mix 2 parts water to 1 part ice, it doesn't have to be super painfully cold, but it'll probably hurt a little bit.
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Aug 28, 2014 00:41
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dex_sda posted:Any good resources on accessory strength training to improve bouldering specifically? What do you mean by accessory strength?
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Aug 31, 2014 15:37
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dex_sda posted:I'm looking to add accessory exercises to my 3xweek lifting to help my occassional bouldering. I wanna keep focusing on lifting, but as long as I'm in a gym, I want to add some extra work. I would do lots of core exercises like front levers, leg lifts, etc, some one are pull-downs and maybe curls. Not a ton of what you do with normal lifting is going to benefit your climbing. The problem is that most of what our muscles do when we climb are isometric contractions, which you can't replicate without climbing-specific apparatus like hangboards and campus boards.
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Sep 2, 2014 03:31
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Anyone else start making Hueco reservations?
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Sep 22, 2014 01:38
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lime rind posted:Continuing new gear discussion, are there other checks I should make on a new harness other than looking at the stitching? A NEW harness? Make sure you think it's comfortable. There shouldn't be any need to check the stitching unless you're worried about some kind of manufacturer defect.
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Sep 30, 2014 21:55
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CoasterMaster posted:So that being said, this particular route is on a 45 degree roof and the hold I was using was a large jug that I couldn't wrap my hand around (think a sphere, flat on top, mounted in to the wall). I was able to get my hand on top of it (between the top of hold and the wall), but I didn't have a confident grip on it and like I said, my hand slipped and I fell. How the hell are you supposed to hang on to these? Granted, I spent a few precious extra seconds messing with the quickdraw, but I think even if I made the clip perfectly, I don't know if my hand would have lasted much longer. Nice! Soon you'll get a better feel for when you clip and when to shake so that you basically know whether you'll be able to clip or not. Basically you don't want to get into a habit of blowing clips, especially outside. Not really sure what kind of hold you're talking about, but it sounds like a sloper and that just comes with practice. You'll learn what kind of body tension and position you'll need, so that eventually it'll feel like a jug. This is where bouldering on lots of varied terrain so you get used to more and different kinds of holds. Anyone psyched on any projects this weekend? I'm getting out to my 13c project tomorrow, hoping to send!!!
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Oct 5, 2014 05:05
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Words I couldn't have said it better myself. I think most of the people espousing the "traditional wisdom" are a bit misinformed.
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Dec 11, 2014 02:40
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To add a different perspective on shoes to the mix (as I've owned 5 pairs of solutions, 4 pairs of Miura VS and countless other pairs of shoes), there is definitely a difference in performance between the two. The Miura is made to be a high-performance edging shoe, meaning it's sharply downturned, uses XS Edge rubber and more of it, and has a much stiffer midsole than the solution. The solution's flexibility makes it a better smearing shoe and its overall shape makes small footholds on steep terrain more accessible. The Miura VS, however versatile it may be, pales in comparison on steep terrain. Overall, when in doubt I defer to the solution, but on vertical or slightly less than vertical terrain the VS is excellent.
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Jan 8, 2015 23:25
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Uncle Jam posted:I've gotten flappers on every finger after every knuckle. How can I stop this from happening... I hate one by one taping everything up at the gym. I try and mostly lurk in this thread, but I can't help but ask how the hell this could happen? Can we see pictures? I'd also be curious to know how long you've been climbing and how often. That might help figure out what's going on.
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May 7, 2015 05:27
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IrvingWashington posted:Awesome, saving money is a good thing. Usually... Have you tried countersunk bolts? Usually when there's no washer it's because you need countersunk bolts.
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Oct 2, 2015 05:19
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turevidar posted:Can anyone recommend references for setting? The manager at my gym showed me the basics (matching bolts to holds, safety issues, not creating spinners) and let me start setting boulder problems. I'm going to be focusing on putting up training problems for myself. Read "The Art of Coursesetting" by Louie Anderson.
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Dec 16, 2015 19:55
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I'm always looking for sportive solutions, swamis, speedsters, futuras, geniuses, or oasis in my size, 40-40.5!
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Oct 27, 2016 03:54
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Mons Hubris posted:So, my left ring finger is really sore between the first and second knuckles (closest to the palm) if I put pressure on it. It bends fine, seems to have normal strength, just hurts like hell. Almost feels like a bone bruise or something. Could that be a tendon problem? People give horrible advice with this kind of thing far too often. The first thing you need to ask yourself is, can I climb on it? If you can, I advocate not climbing anything super crimpy, but stopping climbing is stupid. Unless it's a stage 3 rupture, there's not really any reason to not just follow an active recovery protocol. Climb as hard as you feel comfortable to the point of it feeling slightly sore, but not preventative. Good idea to do a rehab hangboard routine too.
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Jul 23, 2017 00:47
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tortilla_chip posted:Totally anecdotal, but I stopped having finger injuries after I started incorporating some fingerboard training into my annual regimen. This. There's no reason to be afraid of pockets if you train for pockets. That's true for any kind of hold.
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Jan 17, 2018 22:24
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Ah some much needed sanity in the when to hangboard discussion. Couldn't agree more.
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Jan 20, 2018 07:18
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Blackmage Yapo posted:Just started climbing a month ago and had a few questions for you guys. My belay buddy is way better/more experienced but I've already bugged him a lot about gear. 1. Flappers occur because your hand slides on the hold. On jugs especially, the pinky is going to start sliding first. Use chalk, as much as you want, it's cheap. I've been climbing for a long time and chalk up before every attempt on every boulder, nothing wrong with it. 2. Mountain Project is a good online resource and I used it a bunch when first getting started. In many cases a guidebook is the best place to start if you've never been to an area. I highly recommend going with someone who knows the area, though, for MANY reasons.
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Mar 6, 2018 21:02
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