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Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

My advice is to ignore your street size and try to find a conversion table from the manufacturer if you plan to buy online.

When I bought my first pair of climbing shoes I found a deal on a pair of Evolvs, looked up their totally bananas size conversion table and still love the decision two months later. My foot measured 260mm which is between their 9.5 and 10 (I'm a 9 in street shoes). I went with the smaller of the two and they were perfect.

Maybe I just got lucky.

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Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

modig posted:

It looks like all the upper holds will be useless because your wrists will sit on the giant protruding hangboard.

I think that board allows you to move the holds around at will. They did pick a really stupid set for the demo pictures though.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Baldbeard posted:

1 - When I was just starting, I would first jump down onto the mat after going further than I was comfortable. That way I would know what to expect when dropping from various heights and angles. For example, if there's a sketchy move half way up a problem that I'm going to make a serious project, I would drop off that sketchy move on purpose. Then, in the event that I slipped on the sketchy move on a real attempt, it wasn't really that big of a deal and my body would more or less figure out an okay way to land.

This is what worked for me.

I recently built up the confidence to start climbing on the overhang wall at my gym and having only climbed for a few months the more difficult top-out (and being horizontal that high up for the first time) scared the crap out of me. So I climbed to where I was comfortable and then bailed on purpose to test the fall. When I got used to that I went one move farther and did the same thing until I finished the problem. It was a sketchy finish but at that point I knew that I could handle it and I did it clean on the next attempt.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Headhunter posted:

On a related note I did my first V4 problem today that starts with a pretty big dyno up onto an overhang from almost a sitting start. Felt pretty awesome considering I've only been climbing 2 months.

I finished my first V4 last week after five months of climbing and my friends at the gym all thought it was pretty quick progression. Two months? Holy poo poo.

4R7 THi3F posted:

Is there a correct way to fall when you're bouldering? I almost hit my face against the wall the last Wednesday when I missed a grab, and I was probably lucky that I didn't break my nose. :/

There has been a lot of good advice on this topic already so I would just like to reiterate that practicing falls is the best thing you can do. Practice moves low to the ground and put your body in all kinds of different positions then think about what you would have to do in order to land safely if you fell from that position. Before you know it, you too will be an experienced climber faller and forget what it was like to not know what the gently caress.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

I have my first bouldering competition this coming Friday and I'm starting to get excited.

Any advice?

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

henne posted:

Eat well coming into the comp. Don't warm up too hard, you probably have more climbing time then you can use if you climb like its a workout. Get an idea of the whole comp's point system or whatever and figure out how hard you want to climb and which routes are in that range. Take your time climbing, read the routes heavily as you wait your turn in the stack. Climb efficiently and rest between attempts,and take time to eat and drink throughout the day. Don't get too attached to one problem because it is so close and ignore potentially higher point values. If you can find a route that has a crux that is just your "style" it may be worth more points and more fun to climb. Have fun with it, it's still just climbing which is all because it's so fun.

Thanks for this.

The comp wasn't point based, it was strictly elimination. Finish five problems in the first round (probably V0-V1) to make it to round two. Finish five problems in the second round (V0-V3) to make it to the elimination round. We got three falls to start the elimination round and three more after completing the third problem.

I made it to the elimination round (which was my goal) but due to the unluck of the random draw ended up being the second climber. The first problem was easy but the climber ahead of me had trouble on the second so when I sent it on my attempt I became first in line for the rest. Wasted one fall each on problems three and four (it really was tough going first without the benefit of learning from someone else's attempt). I fell three times on the crux of problem five and when I nailed it on my last try the entire gym started yelling and it felt awesome. Finally eliminated at the crux of problem six but man, that was so much fun.

I can't wait to do it again.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

I assume it works that way for serious business climbing where the number of entrants is already very limited. This was open to anyone (there were ~100 climbers) and focused way more on just having fun and socializing.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Dumbdog posted:

What are everyone's aims for the new year then?

In 2014 I will:

Send my first V5
Try lead climbing
Climb outside!

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

armorer posted:

That's a really big disparity, but grading is often different from gym to gym and crag to crag. My guess is that Sender One is consciously grading hard.

Yeah, some gyms will do that on purpose. My gym is known to set a little hard and when I asked the setters about it they said it was to help make things safer as people transition to outdoor bouldering. If you send V4 in a gym then you're likely to attempt it when you go outdoors but if the set in the gym is easy then you aren't likely to be ready for it and are more likely to get hurt.

In other news the ABS Championships are today and tomorrow and are being broadcast live on YouTube. I watched the women's qualifier round this afternoon and it was pretty awesome.

Women's Qualifiers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1CrbR8hvakY
Men's Qualifiers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7QyxX2lHgo
Open Semis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LB3j39Djzc
Open Finals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l51KxaPHsEw

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned ClimbOn bars yet. A little bit goes a long way and it smells pretty good too.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

^^^Pretty much.

PRADA SLUT posted:

I've used it, it's just as expensive as the other "climber" balms though.

I bought an ounce in September and have only managed to use half while climbing 2-3 times a week. It'll last me a year at this rate. Yeah, it's $10 an once but I couldn't call that expensive on an annual purchase.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

CoasterMaster posted:

I'm going to be in Boston with a few hours to kill Thursday morning/afternoon, so I was thinking about checking out one of the local rock climbing gyms. It looks like there are three:

- Boston Rock Gym
- Boston Rock Spot
- MetroRock

I'm not traveling with anyone else, so I'm really focused on climbing with auto-belays and I prefer taller walls to shorter (duh). I've checked out some Yelp reviews, but it's hard to tell how big each one is and how many auto-belay devices each gym has.

I can consistently climb 5.8s on 'first glance' and some 5.9s on a good day (and possibly even a 5.10) :). Can someone write some words about those gyms and tell me which one I should check out? :)

I go to Rock Spot and their current Boston location is mostly a bouldering gym. They do have a good number of top rope stations and I think 6-8 of them are auto-belay but they are only ~20 feet tall.

I haven't been to BRG in almost a year but I remember their walls being a little bit higher and they had less bouldering. They only had a handful of auto-belays if I remember correctly though. CRG in Watertown is fantastic but lacks auto-belay. And I can't speak to Metro or BKB because I haven't been to either one.

Shoot me a PM if you end up at Rock Spot. I'll be there tomorrow night to try out some new shoes.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

gamera009 posted:

Boston Climbing Goons!

I will be making a handful of trips to Billerica for training, and I figured I might as well see about getting my rear end to a gym to climb. It looks like BRG is the closest outlet, unless someone can point me in the right direction.

BRG a yes or no?

BRG is the best option if you're already in that area. I think it's one or two towns over from Billerica.

I haven't been there since I first started climbing (last year) but it's a good gym. Typical friendly climbing crowd and you shouldn't have trouble finding a belay partner if you need one. If you lead, most of the ceiling in their main climbing area is set as a roof which is pretty cool.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Boston crew, BKBS is hosting a bouldering comp for their first anniversary on August 1st.

I just registered for the intermediate division so come climb with me!

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

pac man frogs posted:

Anyone have thoughts about Sportiva Katanas? Thinking about getting a pair to complement my Mythos for better toe edging.

I got a pair of Katanas when I upgraded from my newbie shoes (moved on to Scarpa Boostics recently). They were comfortable for long sessions and the pointed toe definitely helped as I moved into V4/V5 territory. Word of warning though, the toe rubber wears pretty quickly along the front edge.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

petrol blue posted:

Right, third set of climbing pants I've tried, four if you count trying leggings on and refusing to leave the house. What the gently caress do people wear for climbing?

Prana Stretch Zion pants are the best pants by a long shot. Though sometimes I just wear jeans.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Falkaugaa posted:

So, as the outdoors season is coming up (at least here in Norway), it's time to set some goals for the season. What are you guys aiming for this year? I'm looking to start bouldering Font 7A and beyond, as I finished a weak season last year at Font 6C.

I'm finally going to send Try Again.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Partial Octopus posted:

Ended up getting a pair of boostics. They fit so much better than any of the la sportiva shoes I tried. Does anyone know if the boostics will stretch? I'm not sure if I should size down a bit more with them.

My favorite shoes by far, good choice. The uppers will break in very slightly and I will probably go down a half size on my next pair just to keep a snug fit all around.

Also, enjoy multi-colored feet after climbing sessions for the next month as the excess dye rubs off.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Zephro posted:

Can anyone recommend a good wall near Back Bay, which is where my hotel is?

Rock Spot in South Boston is a quick subway ride (plus a short walk) from Back Bay. It's almost exclusively bouldering and a lot of it. PM me if you decide to make the trip and want a climbing buddy. You can use one of my free guest passes.

Zephro, same goes for you if you decide to give it a try.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Nifty posted:

What exactly does it mean to "stay tight", and what do I do/think about to stay tight?

Mentally replace "stay tight" with "flex whatever you need to flex in order to do the next move in a controlled fashion instead of rocketing off the wall and falling on your face".

As you guessed, this is almost always your core or lower body and early problems with "staying tight" (for me at least) were caused by not breathing properly and running out of gas when I got to a hard move. Focus on keeping your breathing even over the course of the whole problem instead of just before hard stuff and you might find it easier. Every move should be: breathe in before, breathe out during.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

spwrozek posted:

I also don't really get calluses either. Maybe it is from swinging a hammer working construction for 7 years growing up.

Same but I work in IT and had soft baby hands before I started climbing.

I'll use a moisturizer every couple days but mostly, when my skin starts to get sensitive during a long climbing session, I just stop climbing for the day. I don't understand how some people struggle to avoid rips.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

For anyone else who enjoys watching comps (or hasn't watched one before), USA Climbing's bouldering national championship is going on today and tomorrow and it's all streaming live.

Qualifiers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m_m-uWTnbc
Semis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYMjq4_Odkc
Finals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHR63TNGn7o

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

ManMythLegend posted:

I'm almost 36 and while I have my bad days, keeping from self owning is a combination of proper stretching and warm ups on the day of climbing.

I'm not sure what your general physical condition is but at our age it's also important that you are generally fit enough to do it. Younger folks' bodies can still recover easily from pushing too hard too fast. Us old timers need to make sure out bodies can handle the stress.

A lot of good advice so far but I wanted to highlight this. I didn't start climbing until 29 (34 now) and I really needed to pace myself when I started. Once a week for the first month, every 5 days for the second and drop a day between workouts each month until you figure out what you can handle.

I feel like stretching as often as possible was really important to avoid breaking down in the past couple years. If I'm watching TV for a while, I'm probably sitting on the floor stretching for at least an hour of it. At least helps me to avoid muscle pulls and general soreness.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

E: ^Damnit

Unsinkabear posted:

I thought that was called flashing?

Send - Completing a route cleanly after any number of attempts
Flash - Completing a route cleanly on your first attempt
Onsight - Completing a route cleanly on your first attempt with no prior knowledge of the route (not seeing anyone else climbing it or receiving beta)

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Sab669 posted:

Much better & higher res photo that I took tonight, but now it doesn't matter because I finally did it!! ahhh gently caress you boulder you're not better than me!!! Really shocked I managed to do it because I was there for 90 minutes yesterday so I was feeling pretty sore today.

edit; haaa just in time too. They just posted on facebook that they reset the problems today. A few pages back there was a lot of talk about Climbing & "Sadbrains" which I definitely suffer from but I had a stupid smile on my face for a while last night after finishing that problem so that was cool.

Is that a CRG? Looks like one of their walls but I don't recognize the feature.

Congrats on the send.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

rest his guts posted:

In Team US news, I if anyone secures an Olympic invite it'll likely be Drew Ruana and Ashima. They seem to be doing the best overall.

On the men's side, I would have to go with Sean Bailey over anyone at this point. I think he's the only American that I have seen in a world cup final this year. Nathaniel Coleman might have made one in bouldering but I haven't even seen him in even a lead semi yet.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Sab669 posted:

e; Any of you folks in the Massachusetts/Rhode Island area, are you? That's where I'll be for Thanksgiving. I know there's a few gyms in MA but I was hoping to do some outdoor climbing while there if possible

Seconding Lincoln Woods if you're already going to be in that area, weather looks clear but cold on both Friday and Saturday. The warm-up cave almost always has a crowd so it's easy to find people to tag along with.

I don't typically climb outside below 40 degrees so I'll be at a CRG one of those afternoons if you decide to stay indoors.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Typically Randolph and Boston because they are closest to home and work but I've tried all of them except for Worcester and Warwick due to distance.

I've heard good things about the Worcester gym but :effort:

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

SwashedBuckles posted:

Nah, working with Keith at the Randolph gym.

He is a good dude and I was psyched when he started working at CRG. When we first moved out of the city, I was still going to the South Boston gym once a week just to climb every problem with his name on it.

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Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Sab669 posted:

Do you guys have any general suggestions on how to climb while cutting calories?

I'm 5'8 and ~169 pounds. I've been eating about 1500-1700 calories per day since Friday and it's hard getting used to being hungry. I've definitely felt less energetic this week. I walk ~2-3 miles every day and I climbed Saturday and felt kinda weak. I went Sunday as well and felt better but also it was just a kinda chill session. I was thinking about climbing tonight after kickball as well.

I know it's hard to train and cut intake, so other than "don't try hard things" is there anything I should be cautious about? I was thinking just try to focus on climbing easy problems as clean as possible, and hitting the autobelays

Find a gym or health center in your area with registered dietitians on staff and talk to one of them about your goals and your diet.

My fiancÚ does that for work and she's always talking about clients that come in trying to cut calories from their diets while maintaining regular workouts and they don't end up eating enough to make the workouts effective. Don't be that guy. Talk to someone who knows what they are doing so you don't feel like crap from not eating enough.

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