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Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Hi thread. I'm not from Denver or anything but my wife and I started climbing at a gym a couple months ago and I have been enjoying it a lot. I'm still pretty weak and have bad footwork, but I'm tall so I've been able to progress from barely getting 5.5's on my first visit to now being able to on-sight 5.7's pretty regularly. I'm still really challenged by V1's bouldering.

One beginner question regarding bouldering: I'm really bad at actually getting on the wall when your starting position is with two handholds that are like chest-high. In the diagram below, the two handholds are both marked Start.



I assume you're supposed to kind of lean back to keep your arms straight and then get your foot up, but I think I'm missing something. When I try to do that, I'm too far back to reach a higher hold. I usually just have to cheat and reach up to a higher hold to actually get onto the wall.

What should I be doing in this situation?

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Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Thanks! I'll try this out when I go tomorrow and report back.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




I have some Sportiva Tarantulaces and they are getting pretty slippery. Three months old or so. How do I get these things sticky again?

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




henne posted:

What have you possibly done to make climbing shoes not sticky?

I think chalk may just be gummed in the toe part. I'll try washing them, just wanted to make sure that wouldn't hurt it somehow, thanks.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




I saw people climbing at Red Rock last weekend and I was really jealous, it looks like so much fun

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Please tell me that's not a tooth out of your face

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Are there any tricks to keeping your feet on small holds when roof climbing? I've been struggling with a V2 at my gym that starts out really juggy, but then has a roof section with very tiny footholds that are pretty far away, and my feet inevitably slip off and I'm left dangling. Is it just an exercise in core strength to get them back on?

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




I have found the best way to get over the fear of falling with bouldering in particular is just to fall a lot. Try some moves you might not be able to finish so that if you don't make it, you're just going to fall down and you won't be stuck hanging there. Once your body learns it's not actually painful to land on a crash pad, you get over that feeling pretty fast.

On an unrelated note, has anyone here done any outdoor climbing in NC?

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Well I ask about NC because I've heard about this place called Rocky Face Park that's about an hour north of Charlotte, and supposedly it's a great place for beginners to do their first outdoor climb because there are some fairly easy routes and top rope anchors. They have a bunch of 5.10+ lead routes too, though.

Only thing is, I'd like to go with a group who has climbed outdoors before so I don't accidentally kill myself setting up the ropes wrong or something.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Just signed up for a Meetup to go outdoor toproping for the first time at Pilot Mountain in NC next month. Quote this post when I fall off a mountain.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




crazycello posted:

WHAT IF YOU COULD USE AN AUTOBELAY AND AN OCULUS RIFT AT THE SAME TIME???

It would be cool I bet

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Well I survived my first outdoor climbing trip. All top rope but I got a 5.8 so I was pretty happy.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




How long per day should I be using a grip strengthener (I have the Finger Master)? Do they have recommended routines for these things?

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Sharks Eat Bear posted:

To what end? A grip trainer could potentially be helpful in getting your fingers and forearms a bit warm before you actually do your warm up, but they're not going to help you climb harder or make your climbing grip stronger. probably won't be harmful at all either, but don't expect it to make you a stronger climber

Oh. Well, I was trying to get my fingers strong enough that I can at least use a hangboard without hurting myself. I still struggle with crimps and pinchers and it feels like a lot of that is grip, but maybe not?

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




For shoes, just go to REI or something similar and try on everything in your price range. I started out with the La Sportiva Tarantulace but pretty quickly returned them and got Mythos instead, which I found much more comfortable. It's hard to tell what really works until you climb in them a few times. If you have a membership at REI you can return any shoes no questions asked for up to a year (I think it's that long, at least).

Oops I meant Mythos lolz

Mons Hubris fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Sep 20, 2016

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




God I could campus so hard with a robot arm

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Just had a big anchor building class today so hopefully I can buy some gear and climb some drat rocks soon

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




AAB posted:

is it just a common issue that no rock gym has anywhere near enough parking ever? circled the lot for 20 mins tonight and even the fire lanes behind the building had cars parked in them.

My gym only has enough parking first thing in the morning on Saturdays and Sundays and it's basically in an abandoned office park. Any weeknight between 6 and 9 you will be walking a long way.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Most climbing gyms will have a message board where you can look for climbing partners I think.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Sorry to double post but I have a shoe question. I had a size 42.5 pair of Sportiva Mythos that I recently wore completely out (my right big toe was about to come through the end). They fit pretty snugly when I bought them, but after a month or so I had a fair amount of room in the toe box. I got a new pair in a size 42, but they're tight enough that I got a nasty blister on top of my big toe after climbing in them yesterday and today. Does that sound like a hot spot or should I just wait for them to stretch?

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)





RIP

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




UnfurledSails posted:

I wanted to get into climbing stuff so I followed the OP's advice and took a belaying class last week. It was fun but I was the only one in the class hah. Today I took an intro to bouldering class and I think I like it more than top rope even though I'm pretty not good at it. I was again the only one taking the class... There seems to be a thriving yet totally impenetrable looking community where beginners don't really exist?

My gym is weird because it's all either people who are brand new and struggling on V1s or people who are awesome and flashing V6s. Very few in my range of doing like 3s and a very occasional 4. I feel like people must either give up fast or stick with it long enough to get really good with not much in between.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




So, my left ring finger is really sore between the first and second knuckles (closest to the palm) if I put pressure on it. It bends fine, seems to have normal strength, just hurts like hell. Almost feels like a bone bruise or something. Could that be a tendon problem?

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Rime posted:

Tendon sheath issue, yeah. I get that a lot from crimping at work. Take a week off climbing at least, don't do anything that requires "crimpy" movements in real life, if it persists at the same level of pain see a doctor. Can take up to two weeks to recede if it's bad enough.

Once it's healed get a resistance ball (like a stress ball with little rubber bands for each finger) or just stack rubber bands around your fingers and do reverse finger training by opening your fingers against the resistance. This will prevent future injuries.

Thanks! Not as bad as it could be.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




I like the Climb On lotion bar. Keeps your hands soft but maintains your calluses better than regular hand cream.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Is that Austin Bouldering Project?

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)





Yeah that place has really fun routes but they grade softer than any gym Iíve been to. Still pretty great.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Red Rocks is sick as hell, great pictures.

What is the best place to send my Mythos to get resoled?

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Yeah my heels are narrower than average and the balls of my feet are wider than average (a shoe store near me has a magical/horrifying body scanner that scans your feet and tells you all this stuff) and I struggle to find good shoes for my feet. Mythos are the only thing I've found that work. I got some Scarpa Helixes as a backup pair while my Mythos were getting resoled, wore them for about a month, and they still feel awful and seemingly haven't stretched at all.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Hey what's the best way to tape up a flapper and minimize pain if you have to climb on it before it's totally healed? I'm taking a 4-week class at my local gym and Tuesday I got a big flapper at the base of my ring finger. It's healed a little, but still stings pretty bad if you touch it. I've already paid for these classes though, so I'm gonna climb on it tonight if I can. Is there anything better than a band-aid held down with climbing tape?

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




SwashedBuckles posted:

Cut the loose skin off so it can dry out, put liquid bandaid on it (this will sting like a bitch), then chalk your hands up real good when you climb.

Also, since you got a flapper at the base of your finger, that generally means you were overgripping on really incut holds and slipping. Try to grab the hold using your fingers rather than your whole hand so thereís little to no pressure on the base of your fingers. Keeping your feet on the wall with better footwork will also help - think of trying to press the foothold off the wall to put a lot of weight on your feet and take some off of your fingers.

Yeah I slid off a wide but somewhat jagged pinch on a steep overhang and basically unzipped my callus. Iíll have to get some NewSkin, I made do with a ton of tape but it was not pleasant.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Cannon_Fodder posted:

In high school, during soccer endurance training in the pre season, i was doing some suicide sprints in very wet conditions. After an hour or so of practice and mid turn on one of these, I got the worst flapper of my life. The entire ball of my foot below my big toe and almost to my arch came off. It softened as my socks got wet and eventually just ripped. At the base it was prob a quarter inch thick. I made the mistake after practice of gluing it closed with new skin. Holy titty loving christ was that an intense sensation. My girlfriend at the time did me the honor of gluing it together. Woof.

Jesus Christ

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




pr0zac posted:

Meme posting in the climbing thread.



I bought that Horst training book yesterday and hoo boy is this accurate

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




armorer posted:

I'm not familiar with that one, but there are a lot of footwork drills or warmup/conditioning drills that people do. It sounds like that to me.

Yeah itís just a footwork and body positioning drill

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




I'm sick of Alex Honnold. Whatever man you're good at climbing we get it

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




George H.W. oval office posted:

Saw the Dawn Wall last night and it was really good. Absolutely beautiful shots and the story is inspiring as all hell. Pretty cool we are getting two climbing documentaries both about el cap in the same year.

I almost went to see it but I figured I'll wait for Free Solo, cause if I'm going to watch a full length El Cap documentary it might as well be the more dangerous one.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




If I'm on an overhung boulder route I will pretty much always just hang and drop. I can't imagine jumping from on the top of the wall though, that's crazy.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Oh yeah my gym had a member appreciation event with a dyno contest and one dude was clearly getting tired at the end of his run. He lazily threw himself at one of the dynos, landed on padded floor, and snapped his shin completely in half. Not even sure how he did it but that ended the dyno contest real quick.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Gym climbing is fun

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Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




I tried bouldering outdoors for the first time in Red Rocks today. Itís not as much harder as gym climbing as I was led to believe, but coming down is a hell of a lot scarier. Real fun V0-V2 routes out there though.

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