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Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



I went to the Sender One grand opening on Saturday and saw the pro competition, which was really impressive and inspiring. Sharma was there but he definitely wasn't the best climber, I wish I remembered the other guys' names. Also Ashima Shiraishi was there, the little Asian girl who is super good. The format of the competition was really cool, as there was always someone climbing at any given time.

Actually the whole gym was impressive, everything was so new and fresh. Membership is $75/month though which is pretty crazy.

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Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



idiotsavant posted:

Also cardio. God drat, do I have to start doing way more freaking cardio.

Would you mind explaining why?

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



A few pictures from bouldering these past two weekends at the Palm Springs Tramway, in Southern California




Hueco Shuffle, V0


V3 highball


Attempting second ascent of Slippery Salamander, V2+ slabalicious


Emerald City, V0 highball

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



French Canadian posted:

Oh, wow there is snow up there already. I stopped going to tram after I did a sequence of trips one particular year. Got kind of tired and people kept wanting to just project the same routes. Also hate that loving tram music. Fuuuuuuuuck.

Are you new to that area? It's pretty cool in general. Something-something Head of the Dragon is a rad V3/4 and Swing Dance (V7) gave me much grief. I don't think I could ever repeat that latter route. Too sharp. The Cube (V5) is fun to try with no right shoe since you can downward toe hook with just your big toe.

Head of the Dragon or whatever it's called is awesome! One of my buddies sent it this weekend. Also one of the guys in our group is projecting The Cube, I'll pass along the no shoe concept next time I talk to him. I'm not new the area but I'm relatively new to climbing, I climb V2-V3 in the gym and project V2s outside. Worked on a V2 on the same boulder as Paul's Roof for a while, but its so sharp it's terrible.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Malibu Creek State Park in So Cal.. this dude just waltzed up while my friends and I were climbing and hopped on the wall and free soloed this 5.11b, a 5.10a, and about half of 5.12a.. He's a 5.14 climber that we have seen at the gym but it was way trippy seeing this dude just get on the walls without a rope.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



armorer posted:

Not that I would free solo stuff anyway, but I've been stung by a wasp twice now while climbing. In both cases I was pretty lucky that the nest I happened on was really small, I only got one sting, and it didn't make me fall. I've also been hit by rockfall while climbing, although again it was a small stone and basically just startled me. It's one thing to believe in your ability (and maybe with good reason!) but it's another thing entirely to trust mother nature not to mess with you.

I actually asked him if he got scared when he was climbing this stuff that is really easy for him, and he said the one thing that he gets scared of is holds breaking off. I noticed him knocking a little bit against each hold before he would grip it and put his weight on it.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Well how he got down from all of them was down climbing, so yeah if I remember correctly he didnt think the pinch was a solid hold on the crux of the 12a so he just down climbed.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Anecdote: I broke my foot climbing last week! Everyone, when you are climbing at gyms with moveable crash pads, PLEASE make sure you move the crash pad to exactly where it needs to be. I just got back from getting surgery to put three screws in my foot, and there is a possibility of arthritis after breaking my specific bone (though thankfully doctor said I should be okay).

My friend just found this article, which is also basically verbatim what happened to me. Recommended reading:

http://touchstoneclimbing.com/news

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Manstrocity posted:

Double post, but are there any Orange County-area climbers who want to hit Riverside Quarry next week? I have the Wednesday through Friday (26 - 28th) that I can get out there by about 3-4.

When my broken foot completely heals I'm down to go out there! (no that won't be by next week unfortunately)

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



spwrozek posted:

IFC building works cup

ISFC bouldering world cup

How did you manage so many typos in these short words!

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



I'm traveling to Denver and gamera009 and I are going to meet up and go climbing out of Boulder, CO. This is in two weeks, on Saturday Sep 13th mid-day. Any other goons want to join send me a message!

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Still B.A.E posted:

Very Good UK bouldering film Life On Hold is currently (today only I think) free to rent here: http://steepedge.com/categories/bouldering/life-on-hold.html

This is cool and worth watching. Thanks for sharing

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Climbed at a crappy little SoCal spot, the quarry in Riverside. Second time leading, and the first time was with someone experienced belaying. Did some super easy routes (5.6 & 5.7 routes) and felt good on them. But mantling onto slabby ledges is scary!

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



I just bouldered at Red Rocks for the first time last weekend too. The rock is great. Perfect Poser looks so easy and I feel like I can totally do it but I'm too much of a pussy.

I notice the ratings on easy stuff is softer than at Bishop. Lots of problems rated V1/V2, which would definitely be V0's at Bishop. Interesting how that happens

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Some photos from Joshua Tree trip this weekend

Me sending False Hueco which starts way down in that cave and is apparently a V1 but gently caress J tree ratings


Wide shot of some other V1. My foot cut when I was topping this out and i slide straight down and tore my legs all up. Good spotting saved my head from slamming on that big boulder in the fall zone


Dragonscale, super easy but cool looking


Satellite left, a v3 but so committing at the top

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Only input I can have is on the bouldering.. sounds like you are bouldering every weeknight, and go outside on the weekends. Often with system board stuff. That might be over training. Your actual routine sounds varied enough, with a buddy setting different problems, but I'd may be cautious on the amount. Don't forget stretching and some sort of opposition training as well.

Side note, gamera spwrozek or any other Colorado goons.. I'll once again be in Denver weekend of April 18th and 19th. Anyone up to boulder or if not, let me borrow crash pads?

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Couple pictures of sharp bouldering with gamera


This wall is hard


Monkey Traverse. It's a ~V4 and that counts if you just do the traverse in sections with long breaks right



A muscly little V3 i think. Heel hook is good, long arms definitely help

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Red Rocks has my favorite rock quality. So solid but doesnt kill your hands

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



If you refuse to rest on off days, just do core exercises those are really good for climbing and you probably wont hurt yourself doing them

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



By "caught his foot coming down" do you mean he hit it on the ground, or what?

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004





Got this classic highball to finish weekend after next at Palm Springs tramway. It's actually not that hard for an outdoor v3, and well within my range, but still the height is psyching me out :eyepop:

It's funny how high I already felt at that point in the route, when in reality I'm only 1/3rd of the way! That's the crux though

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/white-flight/107674829

edit: I uploaded this photo to mountain project, now I'm famous!

Nifty fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Aug 6, 2015

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



I remember neither us sent either of those last time.. Nice!

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Recycle Bin posted:

Any climbers in the Los Angeles area? Getting tired of going climbing all by my lonesome.

Heading to Black Mountain with some friends probably weekend of 9/19 if you like climbing in the woods!

Nifty fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Sep 15, 2015

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Pink crack, ~v3 at Black Mountain, SoCal. while staring at this problem a shirtless guy smoking a cigarette comes up and says "ooooh yeah this one is fun" and proceeds to climb the boulder WITH his cigarette still in his mouth, and no pads on the ground. And then I chickened out and didn't finish the top out :(

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



magicalmako posted:

Oh hey I was there on Saturday! I couldn't get my hands to stay in the crack :(

Um yeah that pic was taken on Saturday, was at Pink Crack around 5pm hah

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



compton rear end terry posted:

Going out to Vegas in December. Would like to spend a morning bouldering.

A simple google comes up with a ton of different guide books. Any of them worth purchasing or should I just use mountain project and ask http://www.desertrocksportslv.com/ these guys?

I rented a pad from the guys you linked to. It worked fine. Also I'll be at Red Rocks this weekend wooooo and This is the guidebook you want http://www.snellpress.com/snb/purchase-southern-nevada-bouldering-guide.html

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Red Rock , NV is awesome.


Shut up and Climb


Potato Chips

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Sharks Eat Bear posted:

:agreed:

That's Sonic Youth wall, yeah? Trying to remember from the picture, is the climber on Sonic Youth? Agent Orange just to the left? Those are such amazing climbs, great place to escape crowds in my experience too, which is weird given how short the approach is.

Yes indeed, climber is on Sonic Youth. Super fun route, lots of interest moving and great rock

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Fun trip to Red Rock NV this weekend


Pork Chop, v2/3. Fun movement and standing up on the left foot to reach for the left side of the arete is committing. Boulder looks like a pork chop obviously


Jack of all Trades, a v5. My new project. Left hand two finger pocket is sick. The rail feature I'm pinching is surreal. Starts matched on the crimp on the bottom right, with little slab-ish feet. I did all the moves individually, and by the time I figured out the beta it was starting to rain. Psyched to get it next trip

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Nifty posted:


Jack of all Trades, a v5. My new project. Left hand two finger pocket is sick. The rail feature I'm pinching is surreal. Starts matched on the crimp on the bottom right, with little slab-ish feet. I did all the moves individually, and by the time I figured out the beta it was starting to rain. Psyched to get it next trip

Well a few months later and got back to this project I've been training for and... the hold broke. This little pocket had a fully formed base, now its useless and you have to try some ridiculous gaston or something. What a heartbreaker

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Its sandstone, so easily breakable. It hasn't been raining so I don't think it was that, I think the hold just had its time.

A jam is theoretically physically possible but not really doable/positive. And unfortunately the discovery of the broken hold was just after the ~30 minute approach, I came upon it and had to scream in sadness. Didnt even get to work it again.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Haha the Pearl is hosed up, I gave that problem like two goes and hated how it made my left fingers feel and have had no desire to touch it again. Glad you sent it, you earned it on that shallow lovely pocket and lovely feet

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



turevidar posted:

Just booked my ticket for a week at Red Rocks :dance:

Is anyone familiar with the bouldering there? I would appreciate recommendations.

Kraft and Gateway Canyon (next to each other) are the classic areas. If you are there a week though you'll want more, but it depends on what grade you climb

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Joshua Tree's easy stuff is generally really hard. False Hueco in the outback is gym-y, though

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



My gyms color circuit ranges are sets of three: 2-4 (green), 3-5 (red), 4-6 (blue), etc. The intention is so that people will try things outside their comfort zone. Unfortunately what ends up happening is everyone just thinks all the greens are 3s, all the reds are 4s, so the colors are simply proxies for specific grades. I hate colors.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



I just bought shoes on ebay and it went fine. Thats the way everyone else sells stuff person to person online

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Sorry to hear man, hope you recover quickly and can get back to it!

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



I'm plateaued at V5 outdoors. I exclusively boulder, and generally on steep problems. I've tried to analyze it and I think my weak point is my core. Its hard to tell if its just cause my core is weak (which I think it is) and/or if my technique is bad enough that I'm doing using it correctly.

Lots of opinions welcome!

People always talk about body tension - should I actually be flexing my core on hard moves? What exactly does it mean to "stay tight", and what do I do/think about to stay tight? I know one strategy is to inhale before a hard move, so at least the core isn't "loose"
I understand good footwork is key to utilizing the core. Should I be thinking about pushing into the wall with my toes, or more like pulling my body into the wall with my toes, so therefore pulling in as opposed to pushing in to keep the body on? Or, second guess, if the foot placement is a smear, then push into the wall, if its actually a sizable foot chip, pull in and down with it?

Sorry, this post may be written poorly, I just got back from waking up at 5am today to do a day trip 3.5hr each way drive to Red Rocks and failed on something I definitely should have done (Monkey Bar Traverse)

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Endurance/finger strength I suppose. I flailed around on the first 6 or so attempts (even though I thought I had ironed out the beta last trip), and by the time I figured it out and could get to the end, I would fall on usually the last, powerful move to the pocket jug.

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Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Sharks Eat Bear posted:

Not trying to be harsh, but I think the vast majority of solid V5 climbers should be able to send MBT off the couch without much effort, especially if your preferred terrain is overhangs. This says to me that maybe you haven't actually plateaued at V5. I also wonder whether core is really the weakness you should be focusing on -- if you were too gassed to do the last move of MBT, I think finger strength/endurance is probably the more pressing weakness. What made you self-assess core as the key weakness?

Even though you exclusively boulder, there can be a lot of benefits for building more endurance/capacity. It can help directly with having enough left in the tank to do the last moves on longer problems like MBT, but can also help indirectly by increasing your stamina & ability to recover in between attempts. Also, most exercises for building endurance/capacity entail a high volume of low intensity climbing (e.g., ARCing), which is a great way to practice movement skills and work on things like being mindful about engaging your core, foot placement, etc.

Agreed that the problem is fairly soft, which is what prompted enough frustration to post on here. Also agreed that core isn't all that important on that problem.. What prompted the self assessment of core weakness is that is the limiting factor for me on a lot of other routes. Thanks for the suggestion on Endurance training, that would kill both the movement and strength birds with one stone

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