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numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant

Disco Pope posted:

North-East Scotland. I found out that a colleague I get on with is an experienced climber today and she's offered to help me get back up to speed! :)

Where abouts in the north east?

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numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant

Disco Pope posted:

Aberdeen in particular.

Same here, i go to transition quite a bit. I you need a climbing buddy let me know.

numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant


It was about here, that i started having to pay attention to technique a lot more(pushing grades is really subjective).
Things like trying different crimping methods, working on balance and figuring out how certain holds can be worked.

As other's have said just watch others do a certain move then replicate it and find out how you can use it yourself in other routes.

Also, i've found it useful to find out who set a route, if it's been a much taller/shorter person, you may have to find an alternative way of doing certain moves.

Brute forcing in the meantime is ok, as you'll improve your stregth while you try different things and suddenly that route you've been pushing will feel really easy.

numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant

I am currently recovering from a pulley injury on my ring finger due to losing grip with the others and momentarily retaining on that one digit and whatever poo poo help the pinkie was giving - which was bad news. I guess the lesson here is that if you are losing grip make sure you disengage them at the same time.

No pockets holds for me for a while yet.

numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant

armorer posted:

Definitely true, but generally speaking after the third bolt something has to go very wrong for you to deck. She basically either had way too much slack in the rope to start with, or she fell while making an overhead fourth clip with a ton of rope pulled out, or her belayer failed to brake properly.


Edit:

In other news, I took a lead fall yesterday in the gym and it broke my belayer's BD Magetron GridLock. It didn't break the actual structural exterior loop (so I was fine, my fall was caught and everything), but it snapped the little retention tab off completely, leaving two sharp aluminum edges where they could have sliced the rope sheath or his belay loop. Close inspection of the soft gear showed no damage, and he put it in for a warranty claim on the biner. We'll see what they say. I have absolutely no idea how that thing managed to snap. I assume that it twisted up on his belay loop or something when he caught my fall, and there was enough force applied to it to break it. I have used a screwgate GridLock for years and had no problems with it at all. He has only had this thing for maybe 3 weeks.

Double Edit (photo!):


I use one of these - which end did he use next to the belay loop?
I use the small end by the belay loop - With it the other way around i might see this happening in a fluke situation. Pretty scarey anyways.

numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant

spwrozek posted:

I lost my new chalk bag :( Seriously confused by where it went though. Must have dropped it in the parking lot of the gym last week. Ordered a new one but just not the colors I had on the old one. Oh well.

Might have been stolen, silly poo poo like that seems to happen in climbing gyms. Maybe it's an honest mistake but it still happens.

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numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant

ShaneB posted:

I feel kind of frustrated that I've already more-or-less plateaued at being able to climb every V2 boulder problem but maybe 33% of the V3s, and every 5.9 but maybe 15% of the 5.10's. I feel like I've been here for 8 weeks or so. The only growth I've felt in that time is being able to get a single 5.10 that was bugging me after failing it 5x or so.

I kind of thought just keeping at it would make me better, but I think my lack of technique is letting me down even more than my generally average strength/fitness, and it's awfully hard to learn technique when you don't know what you are supposed to be doing in the first place.

What are the best ways to push through plateaus?

Me personally, i find trying something really out of my grade as a project really helps. I just batter myself on a route it til it clicks(maybe as a peak in a session). Then all the stuff i may have been having problems with disappears and my ability seems to surge a bit.
Usually its a combination of a move, technique and strength im missing. Lately its my bravery thats stopping me from climbing harder, so there is always something to learn.

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