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REI has a 20% off one item sale plus they just sent out their dividend checks for members. I just picked up a Petzl Xion Rope for under 150.
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Mar 26, 2013 21:19
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| # ¿ Jun 4, 2023 22:33 |
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New backpack time! I'm looking for a new backpack. What size and recommendations do you guys have for someone who is starting to get more into trad and needs an all purpose backpack. For instance, I'll probably be doing snakedike in yosemite later this year so I'll need to be able to carry my gear and food. Also, being able to truck around to various multipitch routes is needed. Would I need a bag that separates into a smaller wall bag?
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Apr 3, 2013 03:58
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MMD3 posted:Drove through Joshua Tree NP yesterday. No time to climb on this trip but it was certainly inspiring. I've only been once but I've climbed half the routes on that rock. I love that place.
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Jan 6, 2015 09:07
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I just switched from my home gym PG SF of four years to Dogpatch/Mission Cliffs because my climbing partner changed and all my coworkers go there. At first I was upset but the place owns to be honest. Features everywhere, taller walls and all sorts of interesting stuff to play on.
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Jan 6, 2015 09:11
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Some photos from our attempted Royal Arches => North Dome, South Face linkup Started with an alpine start. A lot of scrambling and pitches that looked like this. We simuled all of royal arches for speed.  This fixed pendulum was way too fun.  Topping out around noon. The route pretty much just ends up in a trail.  We didn't plan for how hard it was to find this route. We saw a feature from a far that looked like the line and walked towards it and ended up more on the west side rather than the south side. We bushwhacked all the way around and finally found the route. This is two pitches up and slightly off route. We had to call a retreat as this route called for another 4-6 hours of climbing and we were (rightfully) worried about descending north dome gully in the dark. Of course, we ended up on the death slabs so calling when we did was a good thing!  The view from north dome SplitDestiny fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 05:41
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A few images from the last few weekends Corrugation Corner and Surrealistic Pillar Linkup at Lovers Leap   Nutcracker in Yosemite. We did the 5.9 variation and tried to pass people. Still encountered a massive traffic jam.  I promise there is a third anchor point here. I just ended up not belaying in the same direction I decided to sit.  The top 
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Apr 7, 2015 23:02
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Had a day trip to Yosemite on Sunday to climb a route or two and didn't check the weather because it was 80 degrees and we were just doing easy 5.7/5.8 stuff. Should be fine right? 300 feet up and my newly experienced partner gets to experience a thunderstorm and rappelling in the rain on slick granite. And of course on the last rap, the rope doesn't reach the ground when I thought it would and I had her go first. Since she didn't know what to do and stayed there weighting the rope, I couldn't actually get down to assist. Eventually, I was able to walk her through finding a place to unweight the rope (a bolt) so I could assist in the end. Even casual climbs on a sunny day can be an adventure!
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Apr 20, 2015 22:32
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A few pictures from the last few weekends: Bishop: First time!    A FA? The Washroom Traverse  Phantom Spires: Ticked fear of flying and a few others   Mt St Helena: Ticked everything on the bubble 
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May 12, 2015 06:45
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I pulled this guy on a flaring arching finger crack. I knew it wouldn't likely hold a big fall but my next piece, a .2, held like a champ. I've never seen a bent axle like this before though. Crazy. 
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Aug 18, 2015 19:58
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Last week we attempted to climb the Palisade Traverse, which is 5 14'er peaks in one day. We got 3 and it was insanely hard. I don't know how people do all 5 car to car. Starlight Peak with Mount Sill on the left  Trying to negotiate back to the ridge  More Starlight Other Climbs:  Matthes Crest   Tuolomne climbs
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Sep 15, 2015 08:29
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jackchaos posted:Any goons in j tree for thanks giving? Yeah maybe. There or Red Rocks.
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Nov 24, 2015 08:47
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I learned how to trad climb outdoors on my own without a mentor and I wouldn't really recommend it unless you are extremely detail oriented and really practice everything on the ground and get your poo poo dialed before going up. It's scary enough on your first lead without having to remember everything. Even so, a proper mentor would have gotten me moving along much faster and if I were to do it again, I would find one if possible. In other news, I onsighted a 12a for the first time this last weekend (sport) in red rocks. Excited to be pushing my grades there but I've really got my eyes set on some big wall ascents in spring in Yosemite so I need to get back to crack...
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Dec 3, 2015 00:17
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Sitting here pouting because I have an entire big wall rack packed and ready to go but the rain is not cooperating at all. Got a ton of aid practice in last week so we were psyched to head up our first wall this weekend. Next weekend maybe!
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Apr 10, 2016 22:00
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Completed our first big wall this last weekend on Washington Column, South Face. We freed everything 10b and below and aided everything else. Everything generally went really well except for one rope that got stuck on rappel. Really stoked on getting back out for another wall! Some photos: Really love this photo of pitch 5 Video: https://vid.me/s7En  The Kor Roof!  Obligatory anchor pic 
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Apr 18, 2016 21:12
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Rime posted:He ran off to pair up with some girl, she fumbled the grigri, and he decked from the 5th bolt during a practice fall. Ultra cushy mats so he was fine. It's really hard to deck someone with a grigri. You basically have to be clamping the poo poo out of the cam and also probably holding on to the climber side of the rope. Also don't climb with cocky assholes ever.
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Apr 19, 2016 01:40
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Actually it can be super fun climbing with cocky assholes because they are either really good and hike yosemite 5.11+ and then you get to follow hard poo poo without the fall or they struggle up 5.8 and you get to make fun of them (obviously only if they were an rear end in a top hat about it). Speaking of which, I'm really fuckin stoked because El Cap is getting closer to be a possibility. Just need to be a little faster to make it a 3 day climb or less.
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Apr 19, 2016 19:25
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Yeah I tend to take way bigger falls on trad than sport because the best trad placements are usually the best foot/hand placements as well! I generally just double up the placements before a crux with deck potential if it pulls and you are good to go.
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May 3, 2016 21:09
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Press harder with your toes than you think you might need to and keep yourself as static as possible/tighten your core during moves. It's better to use your mid section and legs to force yourself to stay on the wall than to try and catch a swing so don't be afraid to tense harder there.
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May 6, 2016 19:29
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Perfectly sunny and the crowds were out in force last weekend in yosemite but we still managed to get ~20 pitches of climbing in so it was a good weekend
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May 17, 2016 02:25
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The general rule with top rope soloing on a fixed line is to use two auto locking devices. A grigri works well with any sort of traxion but the traxions can shred the rope on any sort of fall. Grigri's also don't freely feed rope well. If you do use a traxion type device, make sure it's the backup to the grigri. This is the best piece of gear for feeding and not shredding the rope. https://www.amazon.com/Kong-Duck-Rope-Clamp-Ascender/dp/B0184EKMM4 Two of those are great and they are perfect for simuling as they can be placed on bolts/anchors/after a crux and prevent the follower from causing a factor two fall. Also, anyone frequent Yosemite area much? I need some suggestions of 10c-11b crack lines that aren't blazing hot this weekend to prep for an ascent of the rostrum.
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Jun 29, 2016 21:28
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Climbed the East Buttress of El Cap this weekend and made great time since we simuled most of it. Then went and cragged in Tuolomne for the rest of the weekend because it got way too hot by noon in the valley. https://vid.me/sMFi
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Jul 6, 2016 19:34
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These are photos of me trying to make it part way up the nose on el cap to see if we can do it next week but go to the top. Trip report: We'll probably get benighted on a less than ideal spot but we're gonna try anyways!  
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Oct 3, 2016 23:46
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We climbed the big rock! We did it!    
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Oct 13, 2016 02:23
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Definitely. We arrived Friday morning and fixed three lines to sickle ledge. We then hailed our bags up there and rapped back down to get one last warm meal and sleep on the ground. That's when I realized that I left the car key in the haul bag 500 feet up... fortunately jugging doesn't take too long and I was up and back down in less than an hour, in time for some pizza. The next morning we woke up at 4am and started jugging back up when I heard a large crash! The compression sack on my sleeping bag had exploded and my sleeping bag fell to the ground! That was just as I was about to toss our third line to the ground too so back down and up I went, dropping the third line to recollect later. Crazy start to the route but we finally started climbing. Eventually we made it to dolt tower that night ( being passed by a very rude party who demanded we let them pass instead of asking and climbing alongside as is tradition ) That night we realized we were too slow for our three days of water and decided to bail. The next morning, another party that had reached us told us they smashed their water and were also bailing so we offered them ours. Instead, they gave us their water and told us to have fun! So we had a late start that morning but eventually made it to camp iv way after dark. That ledge also barely fits two people and is super sloping so my rope was taught all night keeping me in place. We hit camp vi the next day and enjoyed a good night sleep before topping out. On our last few pitches, we got passed by a day team that was at 3 hours 20 minutes... amazing. It was crazy tiring but super fun.
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Oct 13, 2016 18:33
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Nice. Selaginella is especially stout for 5.8 if you aren't used to offwidth and awkward chimneys or squeezes. After Six is the toughest 5.6 in the world on that first pitch. The only sad thing is you were so close to nutcracker which is sooooo good.
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Oct 30, 2016 07:38
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My rule of thumb for that kind of thing is to warm up thoroughly and if it still hurts after that then more rest, otherwise more climbing. Fingers are weird.
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Nov 2, 2016 06:22
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That’s a pretty common wall to take beginners but you still need to lead the routes first. I’m pretty excited because I feel like I’ve finally broken through a very long plateau of 12- climbing and now I’m starting to see 12c onsights. 13a might be doable over a weekend trip soon!
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Dec 8, 2017 20:17
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If you are getting flappers, it’s almost entirely because your skin is too soft and hasn’t built calluses yet. Just climb more and take it easy when you see flappers starting. I also got one of my 13a gym projects today so that is exciting!
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Dec 14, 2017 06:31
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nacon posted:As I've been jumping into more committing trad/alpine climbs, my perception of anchors and anchoring (and where our priorities should be) has been radically changed. This article along with my experiences has really changed my view of anchors: This is a good article and I've heard many guides say similar things such as "You don't have to worry about shock loading and extension if your placements don't fail." Your anchor is only as strong as the placements you make.
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Sep 22, 2020 19:04
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Verviticus posted:when i dropped 15lb from 210ish to 195ish i jumped two grades but this time i've gone from 195 to 185 so far and havent seen any improvement... hoping that last 5lbs makes the difference I used to cycle up and down around 10 pounds and ultimately ended up giving up on worrying about it in 2019 and had the best climbing season ever with multiple onsights at 12c and my first 13a send. I think this was because I was able to constantly focus on and having the energy to just try harder.
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Apr 21, 2021 19:22
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I tried a 2016 moonboard setup for the first time today. I built a personal mini moonboard last year and so I was curious to try other setups and see if they are just as sandbagged. It turns out that the mini is just insanely sandbagged (at least for my body style) by at least 1-2 V grades compared to the 2016 set benchmarks,
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Jul 11, 2021 03:50
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Went to Yosemite last weekend for the first time in years. I forgot just how amazing the climbing is there. I hadn't been back in a while due to a combination of covid, reservations, dog, and a lack of climbing partners. Not dealing with the reservation system is great but still lacking partners for some of the bigger stuff I want to do like the Rostrum, Astroman, and NIAD. All of my friends have pretty much given up trad climbing  That said, for not placing a single cam in the past 2 years, the single pitch stuff I did felt great and didn't punt off anything (though only climbed up to ~11a this weekend) and was able to lap generator crack without wanting to puke so I consider that a win.
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Oct 13, 2021 22:21
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spwrozek posted:After a month and half of long nights and not being able to climb I was able to get out to the gym tonight. Hands sore and feels good. Need to be more consistent. Take it from me, ramp up volume first for a while before going ham on limit bouldering as nursing those finger injuries sucked over the summer (though I can't complain as the mountain biking was fun that replaced it)
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Oct 21, 2021 21:16
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M. Night Skymall posted:Does anyone have much experience putting stuff up on mountain project? I've been going out to this area with no guide book and basically no information on MP, and I'd like to get some stuff up on there so other people start climbing in the area. If nothing else so I spend less of my time scraping moss off holds. The problem at the moment is there're something like 7 or 8 "regions" according to the guy developing it we've talked to, but we've only managed to find 3, and MP only has 1. There're no real trails going out to the areas either, so my plan was to use GaiaGPS to plot some likely paths to get out to places and then post those with pictures of the main boulder and gps coordinates and whatever lines I can figure out from ancient instagram posts. I would get a hold of the person developing it first to make sure they are ok with the routes being posted first. There might be access issues or other things to be aware of first.
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Nov 3, 2021 06:19
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| # ¿ Jun 4, 2023 22:33 |
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I climb fairly consistently every other day. If I am feeling rough or tired from whatever, I'm not afraid to take an extra rest day. Those times when I take the extra rest tend to be when I send the hardest (~V9-10 in my gym) but I also find that I need more frequent climbing consistency for a while (several weeks worth) before the rest helps.
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Feb 12, 2022 06:32
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