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SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


REI has a 20% off one item sale plus they just sent out their dividend checks for members. I just picked up a Petzl Xion Rope for under 150.

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SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


New backpack time!

I'm looking for a new backpack. What size and recommendations do you guys have for someone who is starting to get more into trad and needs an all purpose backpack.

For instance, I'll probably be doing snakedike in yosemite later this year so I'll need to be able to carry my gear and food. Also, being able to truck around to various multipitch routes is needed. Would I need a bag that separates into a smaller wall bag?

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


MMD3 posted:

Drove through Joshua Tree NP yesterday. No time to climb on this trip but it was certainly inspiring.


I've only been once but I've climbed half the routes on that rock. I love that place.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


I just switched from my home gym PG SF of four years to Dogpatch/Mission Cliffs because my climbing partner changed and all my coworkers go there. At first I was upset but the place owns to be honest. Features everywhere, taller walls and all sorts of interesting stuff to play on.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Some photos from our attempted Royal Arches => North Dome, South Face linkup


Started with an alpine start. A lot of scrambling and pitches that looked like this. We simuled all of royal arches for speed.


This fixed pendulum was way too fun.


Topping out around noon. The route pretty much just ends up in a trail.


We didn't plan for how hard it was to find this route. We saw a feature from a far that looked like the line and walked towards it and ended up more on the west side rather than the south side. We bushwhacked all the way around and finally found the route. This is two pitches up and slightly off route. We had to call a retreat as this route called for another 4-6 hours of climbing and we were (rightfully) worried about descending north dome gully in the dark. Of course, we ended up on the death slabs so calling when we did was a good thing!


The view from north dome

SplitDestiny fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Mar 19, 2015

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


A few images from the last few weekends

Corrugation Corner and Surrealistic Pillar Linkup at Lovers Leap





Nutcracker in Yosemite. We did the 5.9 variation and tried to pass people. Still encountered a massive traffic jam.



I promise there is a third anchor point here. I just ended up not belaying in the same direction I decided to sit.


The top

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Had a day trip to Yosemite on Sunday to climb a route or two and didn't check the weather because it was 80 degrees and we were just doing easy 5.7/5.8 stuff. Should be fine right?

300 feet up and my newly experienced partner gets to experience a thunderstorm and rappelling in the rain on slick granite. And of course on the last rap, the rope doesn't reach the ground when I thought it would and I had her go first. Since she didn't know what to do and stayed there weighting the rope, I couldn't actually get down to assist. Eventually, I was able to walk her through finding a place to unweight the rope (a bolt) so I could assist in the end. Even casual climbs on a sunny day can be an adventure!

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


A few pictures from the last few weekends:

Bishop: First time!




A FA? The Washroom Traverse


Phantom Spires: Ticked fear of flying and a few others



Mt St Helena: Ticked everything on the bubble

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


I pulled this guy on a flaring arching finger crack. I knew it wouldn't likely hold a big fall but my next piece, a .2, held like a champ.

I've never seen a bent axle like this before though. Crazy.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Last week we attempted to climb the Palisade Traverse, which is 5 14'er peaks in one day. We got 3 and it was insanely hard. I don't know how people do all 5 car to car.


Starlight Peak with Mount Sill on the left


Trying to negotiate back to the ridge


More Starlight


Other Climbs:

Matthes Crest



Tuolomne climbs

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


jackchaos posted:

Any goons in j tree for thanks giving?

Yeah maybe. There or Red Rocks.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


I learned how to trad climb outdoors on my own without a mentor and I wouldn't really recommend it unless you are extremely detail oriented and really practice everything on the ground and get your poo poo dialed before going up. It's scary enough on your first lead without having to remember everything. Even so, a proper mentor would have gotten me moving along much faster and if I were to do it again, I would find one if possible.

In other news, I onsighted a 12a for the first time this last weekend (sport) in red rocks. Excited to be pushing my grades there but I've really got my eyes set on some big wall ascents in spring in Yosemite so I need to get back to crack...

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Sitting here pouting because I have an entire big wall rack packed and ready to go but the rain is not cooperating at all. Got a ton of aid practice in last week so we were psyched to head up our first wall this weekend. Next weekend maybe!

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Completed our first big wall this last weekend on Washington Column, South Face. We freed everything 10b and below and aided everything else. Everything generally went really well except for one rope that got stuck on rappel. Really stoked on getting back out for another wall!

Some photos:

Really love this photo of pitch 5
Video: https://vid.me/s7En


The Kor Roof!


Obligatory anchor pic

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Rime posted:

He ran off to pair up with some girl, she fumbled the grigri, and he decked from the 5th bolt during a practice fall. Ultra cushy mats so he was fine. :shrug:

I sort of wish he'd at least had whiplash because the dipshit is proud of having walked off a decking, and spent yesterday telling me that the routes I was sweating bullets leading were "so easy" and he could totally have lead them and cleaned the anchors ( because he watched some YouTube videos) he just didn't want to because he wasn't confident in my lead belay skills. While he lead belayed me...

Now, I took the lead course with him to brush up from being rusty and because I wanted to keep an eye on the cocky dumbass before we climbed outside. I've been leading for a year and building anchors for three, and I lead and set the topropes the git was gravy climbing on all day. :argh:

Needless to say, when my actual climbing partner gets back from abroad we will not be inviting Mr. Decking on our multipitch adventures.

It's really hard to deck someone with a grigri. You basically have to be clamping the poo poo out of the cam and also probably holding on to the climber side of the rope. Also don't climb with cocky assholes ever.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Actually it can be super fun climbing with cocky assholes because they are either really good and hike yosemite 5.11+ and then you get to follow hard poo poo without the fall or they struggle up 5.8 and you get to make fun of them (obviously only if they were an rear end in a top hat about it).

Speaking of which, I'm really fuckin stoked because El Cap is getting closer to be a possibility. Just need to be a little faster to make it a 3 day climb or less.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Yeah I tend to take way bigger falls on trad than sport because the best trad placements are usually the best foot/hand placements as well! I generally just double up the placements before a crux with deck potential if it pulls and you are good to go.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Press harder with your toes than you think you might need to and keep yourself as static as possible/tighten your core during moves. It's better to use your mid section and legs to force yourself to stay on the wall than to try and catch a swing so don't be afraid to tense harder there.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Perfectly sunny and the crowds were out in force last weekend in yosemite but we still managed to get ~20 pitches of climbing in so it was a good weekend

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


The general rule with top rope soloing on a fixed line is to use two auto locking devices. A grigri works well with any sort of traxion but the traxions can shred the rope on any sort of fall. Grigri's also don't freely feed rope well. If you do use a traxion type device, make sure it's the backup to the grigri.

This is the best piece of gear for feeding and not shredding the rope. https://www.amazon.com/Kong-Duck-Rope-Clamp-Ascender/dp/B0184EKMM4 Two of those are great and they are perfect for simuling as they can be placed on bolts/anchors/after a crux and prevent the follower from causing a factor two fall.

Also, anyone frequent Yosemite area much? I need some suggestions of 10c-11b crack lines that aren't blazing hot this weekend to prep for an ascent of the rostrum.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Climbed the East Buttress of El Cap this weekend and made great time since we simuled most of it. Then went and cragged in Tuolomne for the rest of the weekend because it got way too hot by noon in the valley.

https://vid.me/sMFi

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


These are photos of me trying to make it part way up the nose on el cap to see if we can do it next week but go to the top.

Trip report: We'll probably get benighted on a less than ideal spot but we're gonna try anyways!


SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


We climbed the big rock! We did it!









SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Definitely. We arrived Friday morning and fixed three lines to sickle ledge. We then hailed our bags up there and rapped back down to get one last warm meal and sleep on the ground. That's when I realized that I left the car key in the haul bag 500 feet up... fortunately jugging doesn't take too long and I was up and back down in less than an hour, in time for some pizza.

The next morning we woke up at 4am and started jugging back up when I heard a large crash! The compression sack on my sleeping bag had exploded and my sleeping bag fell to the ground! That was just as I was about to toss our third line to the ground too so back down and up I went, dropping the third line to recollect later. Crazy start to the route but we finally started climbing.

Eventually we made it to dolt tower that night ( being passed by a very rude party who demanded we let them pass instead of asking and climbing alongside as is tradition ) That night we realized we were too slow for our three days of water and decided to bail. The next morning, another party that had reached us told us they smashed their water and were also bailing so we offered them ours. Instead, they gave us their water and told us to have fun! So we had a late start that morning but eventually made it to camp iv way after dark. That ledge also barely fits two people and is super sloping so my rope was taught all night keeping me in place.

We hit camp vi the next day and enjoyed a good night sleep before topping out. On our last few pitches, we got passed by a day team that was at 3 hours 20 minutes... amazing.

It was crazy tiring but super fun.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Nice. Selaginella is especially stout for 5.8 if you aren't used to offwidth and awkward chimneys or squeezes. After Six is the toughest 5.6 in the world on that first pitch.

The only sad thing is you were so close to nutcracker which is sooooo good.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


My rule of thumb for that kind of thing is to warm up thoroughly and if it still hurts after that then more rest, otherwise more climbing. Fingers are weird.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Thatís a pretty common wall to take beginners but you still need to lead the routes first.

Iím pretty excited because I feel like Iíve finally broken through a very long plateau of 12- climbing and now Iím starting to see 12c onsights. 13a might be doable over a weekend trip soon!

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


If you are getting flappers, itís almost entirely because your skin is too soft and hasnít built calluses yet. Just climb more and take it easy when you see flappers starting.

I also got one of my 13a gym projects today so that is exciting!

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


nacon posted:

As I've been jumping into more committing trad/alpine climbs, my perception of anchors and anchoring (and where our priorities should be) has been radically changed. This article along with my experiences has really changed my view of anchors:

https://americanalpineclub.org/resources-blog/2017/7/31/anchors

There's a lot we're taught about equalization/extension/distribution of load on anchoring systems that may not always be explicitly true, as it turns out.

This is a good article and I've heard many guides say similar things such as "You don't have to worry about shock loading and extension if your placements don't fail." Your anchor is only as strong as the placements you make.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Verviticus posted:

when i dropped 15lb from 210ish to 195ish i jumped two grades but this time i've gone from 195 to 185 so far and havent seen any improvement... hoping that last 5lbs makes the difference

I used to cycle up and down around 10 pounds and ultimately ended up giving up on worrying about it in 2019 and had the best climbing season ever with multiple onsights at 12c and my first 13a send. I think this was because I was able to constantly focus on and having the energy to just try harder.

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SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


I tried a 2016 moonboard setup for the first time today. I built a personal mini moonboard last year and so I was curious to try other setups and see if they are just as sandbagged. It turns out that the mini is just insanely sandbagged (at least for my body style) by at least 1-2 V grades compared to the 2016 set benchmarks,

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