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Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Al-Saqr posted:

I am interested in doing indoor rock climbing as a sport a friend has been hyping it up to me, so I have a couple of questions:-

1- is it a legit good way to burn calories? I'm currently running 3 miles four days a week and dieting, and I'm looking to add something that would work and burn my muscles as well, does this do the job?

2- will this cause numbness and pain to my hands/fingers beyond normal fatigue? I am an artist, and I had a bad experience with boxing where every time I would end the session my hands would shake uncontrollably for a few hours afterwards and I wouldn't be able to draw for half a day, does the same thing happen with rock climbing?

I know these are simplistic questions I just haven't found good answers elsewhere.

Thanks

1. It's a great exercise, with the benefit that it's (in my opinion) way more fun than running or going to the gym! Meaning you're more likely to stick with it.

2. Shouldn't make your arms shake, however at the beginning, the day after a good climbing session your forearms will be very sore. This can be minimised with stretching before and after, and gets much better with time, I rarely get very sore these days.

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Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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I pay £8.95 to rope climb indoors (with a £12.50 yearly membership fee) at High Sports, and loving £11.50 to boulder at Boulder Brighton. I used to pay £44 for unlimited monthly membership at BB which worked out a lot cheaper but I mostly lead climb these days so it's not worthwhile. So expensive.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Mahlertov Cocktail posted:

No, I typically downclimb. I jump a couple times per session, but never from very high and I've never felt any problems from it. And again, this wasn't something that happened right after climbing, I was just fishing around for reasons when it probably is just having slept weirdly one night.

Hopefully it's just that! Maybe double check you're warming up, stretching before and after and warming down enough as well :)

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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I'm looking to buy some new climbing shoes, but struggling to find something I'm happy with.

My main climbing shoe has been Red Chilli Spirits, which I've been really happy with, but the rubber has worn completely away and I think I need something a little more technical now - I wore a friend's shoes and found I could heel-hook far easier in them (but they were too narrow).

I'm currently climbing in my backup pair, Boreal Jokers, but they're not really good enough I don't think - they feel way too stiff for me, like I can barely feel holds under my toes.

Last night I climbed in La Sportiva Miura lace-ups, found them decent to climb in but way too narrow for my feet.

I'd like something that I can climb for long periods in and are still fairly comfy. I mostly lead climb, with some bouldering, mostly indoors (due to location), but take several climbing holidays throughout the year, where I climb on limestone, gritstone, granite etc, and climb on the southern sandstone regularly throughout the summer.

Essentially I want something that's good at everything but mostly leading, technical, comfy for long days and also reasonably wide-ish at the front. Am I being a picky bitch, dreaming of a wonder shoe that doesn't exist?

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Thanks for all the replies!

Still B.A.E posted:

Try some scarpa vapours, scarpa shoes tend to be quite wide and by all accounts they're a great all round technical shoe.

These look pretty perfect actually, I'm going to try some on at the weekend, hopefully they fit well.

armorer posted:

If you are in the US and don't have a store nearby with a wide selection, try Zappos.

That sounds great, but I'm not in the US. I'm going to have to resort to trying them on in a shop then buying online I think, if there's a big saving.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Shoe update: after advice in this thread, I went with the Scarpa Vapour v's. Thanks for your recommendations!

Tried a bunch of shoes on but they seemed to fit me best, they were a really comfortable fit but I bought them smaller than I'm used to so hoping it works out.

Trying them out indoors tomorrow, I'm going on a 5 day climbing trip to Poland in May so hoping to have them broken in by then.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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borapt posted:

Wooo, Vapor V buddy!

I bought mine a size down as well, didn't take all that long to break in nicely. Maybe two, three weeks at 3 sessions a week?

I'm reeeally hoping these break in quickly. Tried climbing in them for the first time this morning and it was fairly agonising - I could only manage 3 climbs before I had to switch back to some old backup shoes. But they're leather, so should have some stretch in them... Hopefully in 3 weeks I'll be able to go a whole session in them! (And will actually be able to feel climbing holds under my toes again. I hate breaking in new shoes).

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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FiestaDePantalones posted:

Thanks for the advice! I ended up going for the Black Diamond Posiwires since I could get 12 for $108 and haven't really heard any negative things about them.

That's a ridiculously cheap price..! I wish draws were that inexpensive in the UK.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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I wear shorts or, when it's cold, some baggy hiking trousers. The other day I forgot to pack shorts so climbed in some tight-ish jeans, which didn't hinder me as much as expected. But I probably looked like a bellend.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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big scary monsters posted:


On the upside I've convinced some friends to come down and visit me and we're going sea cliff climbing for five days in a couple weeks.

Sweet, where are you going sea cliff climbing? I'm going to have my first go at trad in a couple of weeks, in Dartmoor.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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big scary monsters posted:

Haha, funnily enough I'll be in Devon too. I learned the ropes on Dartmoor granite and haven't climbed over that way in years so it's a bit of a homecoming for me. We're hoping to go to Blackchurch in North Devon, then maybe down to Bosigran and Sennen in Cornwall. I'd like to stop in on Dartmoor too, maybe hit the Dewerstone or Sheepstor. We're going on the long bank holiday weekend, how about you?

Oh cool! I'll be there sometime between 31st March - 3rd April, my girlfriend's cousin is getting married there that weekend so we're going to take the preceding week to do some climbing and kayaking. I've climbed at Dewerstone before, but only top rope, it was outstanding and I'm hoping to go there this time!

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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big scary monsters posted:

Cool, maybe we'll see you. We'll be a group of two girls and two guys talking a big game and climbing really badly. If you're solid at HS get on Central Groove, definitely the route of the crag at around that grade. Otherwise Colonel's Arete and the imaginatively named Route B are two really nice V. Diffs there.

Cool, I'll be a short guy with a tall girlfriend, mostly standing at the bottom of the routes looking confused at the British adj grading system, then climbing something wildly inappropriate!

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Fatkraken posted:

I booked my intro course at the Foundry in Sheffield. I'm excited!

That looks like a really nice gym, have fun!

gamera009 posted:

Spontaneous trip up the first flatiron.

People were on the East Face route, so we connected Silk Road to the North Ridge and had a blast. Long-rear end hike there from the house, and a long-rear end hike back, but overall an awesome trip.



I wish I had that view within hiking distance of my house! Looks awesome.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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big scary monsters posted:

Haha, funnily enough I'll be in Devon too. I learned the ropes on Dartmoor granite and haven't climbed over that way in years so it's a bit of a homecoming for me. We're hoping to go to Blackchurch in North Devon, then maybe down to Bosigran and Sennen in Cornwall. I'd like to stop in on Dartmoor too, maybe hit the Dewerstone or Sheepstor. We're going on the long bank holiday weekend, how about you?

Hey big scary monsters, how was your Devon trip?

We got rained off most days so went climbing indoors at The Quay, which is a great wall with some fun high lead problems. We tried bouldering on hay tor one day, but it was just too wet and slippery for our liking, then got one full day trad climbing at Chudleigh rocks, which was really great, and pretty sheltered from the rain thankfully!

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Oh cool, sounds like you had a good trip! Where was that climbing picture taken?

Yeah we were pretty unlucky - we were in the area for a wedding, and every day there was nice weather we had other duties. The free days the weather sucked, so only got one morning of slippery climbing in :(

Where were you climbing in Poland? I'm going for a 5 day climbing trip there in May, to Jura, only rock, no ice.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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I have a similar problem, in that the Scarpa Vapour Vs I bought about 2 months ago are still very painful - I have to take them off after each climb as my feet begin to cramp up. In hindsight I should have bought half a size up, but there you go. They've stretched out a bit, but are still too painful to wear for extended periods of time.

I've heard that wearing them in a hot bath can mold them to your feet and stretch them out a little... Anybody have a good experience with that? I don't want to ruin them, but I'd also like to be able to wear them without feeling like my toes are breaking.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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I always just use the belay loop, that's how I was shown back when I first had my induction at a climbing gym.

I'm ice climbing for the first time today, only indoors unfortunately (at Vertical Chill in London), but with the hope to learn some techniques ready for a winter trip to Scotland at some point (which would be guided until my friend and I have learned enough). Anyone ice-climbed inside before?

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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So I finished my indoor ice-climbing session at Vertical Chill in London. Holy poo poo, my arms haven't been this pumped since I first started climbing - I mostly lead climb, including a lot of overhanging stuff, and don't have a big problem with getting pumped, but after only 20 minutes my forearms felt like concrete. Climbed for an hour in total, the girl belaying was really friendly and let me have a little longer than I was meant to.

Obviously my technique sucked, I was consciously trying not to overgrip and to focus on my footwork, but I guess I wasn't doing enough to avoid a mega pump.

I expected it to be easier, both physically and technically, but I'm pretty happy that I managed to climb all of the routes, including their overhang (which I climbed about 5 times, though only once clean). I really enjoyed it, and can't wait to get a chance to do a winter climbing trip somewhere!

Chris! fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Apr 25, 2015

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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compton rear end terry posted:

On the same topic, what are the widest shoes out there?

Scarpa Vapour Vs are pretty wide, and comfortable (mine are painful because I bought half size smaller than I should have, but they are finally breaking in).

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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benwards posted:

I have stupid-wide feet, and la sportiva miuras are the best fit I've found.

This is really interesting to hear as I've just bought a second hand pair of Miura laces (because a mate only wanted a fiver for them) and they're so narrow I can't even get my feet inside (despite them being half size bigger than my usual rock shoes). They're so narrow around the toes!

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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gamera009 posted:

For references, I wear 8.5EEE in mens' shoes (Allen Edmonds).

I am incapable of anything that isn't either one full size larger than I need, or Evolvs. Scarpa Helix isn't a bad fit, but I have to keep it barely laced up front and about a half-one size larger than I typically use. Acceptable for casual multipitch, but terrible for bouldering.

La Sportive used to make the Tora, which was awesome, and then for some reason they decided people with wide feet don't climb and went back to making narrow as gently caress shoes.

Maybe I'll look into something less heinous eventually, but I was getting the Evolve pro-deal so I ended up with something like five pairs of Evolv shoes. Not running out any time soon.

I didn't realise Evolvs were particularly wide, I don't think I even tried any on when I was shopping around for mine. Is there any you particularly favour for sport climbing? Although the Miuras I have are too narrow for me, I have to say the rubber feels really sticky compared to my Scarpas.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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GoodbyeTurtles posted:

I've been putting off climbing for nearly a year, mostly due to injury and partly because I can't seem to find anyone willing to come to the gym with me, but I think this week I'll just head in there and ask people if they don't mind me tagging along. Failing that, I'll just hit the bouldering walls solo.

I'm also considering getting a crashmat for a spot of bouldering up on dartmoor at some point soon, though the real dream is to do a bit of deep water solo around the Devon coast.

My climbing gym has a pin-board that's always full of people looking for climbing partners, listing their ideal climbing grade etc. Failing that, asking at the desk might result in them hooking you up with someone in the same situation.

Good luck with the DWS at Devon, that would be amazing, let me know how you get on!

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Meatbag Esq. posted:

Planet granite had a climbing comp a couple weeks ago. After a few climbs I got bored of waiting in lines and busted out my camera. 600 photos later....

These were about 100 of the better ones.

https://www.dropbox.com/l/2VTkUzzpHKFfaqgmxBufir

Check out the bat hang in the men's finals route.

Looks fun, great pictures!

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Ravenfood posted:

Looks fun as hell. What's the deal with what looks like a tandem climb? I've never seen that: you have to hold onto your partner's arm at all times?

Thanks for the pictures.

They're gaining popularity in climbing comps at the minute, check out this video for an example. I think there would be a lot of pressure not to drag your climbing partner off the wall... I'd like to give it a try!

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Tots posted:

To be clearer, I want to use static rope instead of a sling in the following picture:



Yeah, absolutely fine.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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I usually tie a figure of 8 into one of the anchors, a figure of 8 on a bight in the centre to attach the carabiners for the climbing rope (which I usually clip in and throw down at this point), then a clove hitch on the other anchor, as it's easy to equalize and get enough tension through it.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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toiletbrush posted:

Does anyone have any tips for knowing when pain or discomfort means 'take a break for a few days/weeks' rather than it just being standard aches after training? I've got a really, really mild finger niggle but I seem to have broken through a plateau and I'm smashing v4-6's all over the place (indoors :() so I'd rather not take a break unless I had to...but I'm paranoid about a niggle turning into a proper injury.

How often are you training and how long have you had the problem? If you've had 1 or 2 rest days and it's still there, I'd say it needs more rest. If it's new, then hopefully it'll go soon. I personally try not to climb on anything more than normal muscle aches, because I'd rather have 3-4 days off than have to stop climbing for a month or 2.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Great picture, looks like fun...!

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Had a really fun day climbing at Horseshoe Quarry in the Peak District, until my climbing partner broke his ankle falling on the second bolt trying to clip the 3rd. He didn't quite deck, but caught his foot coming down. 5 hour drive there, did 5 climbs, 5 hour drive back. Still fun, at least it didn't happen on the first climb of the day.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Nifty posted:

By "caught his foot coming down" do you mean he hit it on the ground, or what?

No it hit a feature on the rock as he fell. It turns out it was a worse injury than we thought, he's broken both his fibula and his tibia and has ruptured a tendon, and at 3am on Sunday developed compartment syndrome, which is a build up of blood in the fracture which he says was pretty agonising. That necessitated emergency surgery, and he's having another operation today to put some steel pins or steel plate or something in his ankle.

In hindsight there are a couple of things he should have done - most importantly, clipped the 3rd bolt, which he could have reached but didn't notice until just before he fell. Also kicking away from the wall when he fell would have prevented his foot catching. I was belaying, and if I'd paid more attention I could have told him about the bolt next to him. It was one of the last climbs of the day, only a 6a+ so we didn't expect him to get into difficulties or slip. We'll both pay more attention in future for sure. Maybe we got complacent. If he'd clipped in he'd have been fine, as it is it's going to be a while before he can walk again, let alone climb.

Chris! fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Jun 8, 2015

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Ladies and gentlemen, the climbing picture of the day.


(This is me at Harrison's rocks in Sussex. Leading isn't possible as the rocks are soft sandstone. My face doesn't always do that).

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Haha, I know. Unfortunately it's the only rock within a reasonable distance to me, except chalk. For those who haven't climbed on soft sandstone, it has so few positive holds, and any pockets tend to be really slopey and smooth... In the picture, I'm trying to climb a finger/hand crack, but the crack flares out and is so smooth that I just don't see how it's possible. There's nothing to hold! It makes climbing on limestone etc seem so much easier though...

You can pretty much see my feelings about sandstone written over my face ;)

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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That looks like a great time! I'm really keen to do a big multi-pitch climb like that. Good going!

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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magicalmako posted:

Does anyone have crack climbing tips? I'm bad at it.

Last weekend I attended a "crack climbing masterclass" run by the Wideboyz (famous for the first ascent of century crack, and a bunch of other good routes, and who were featured in the awesome Wideboyz climbing film (which is highly recommended)). The course was great, I learned a ton. See some pictures below.

Rather than regurgitating the stuff learned from there, search "Wild Country crack school", they've released some really helpful videos walking through crack climbing techniques. Even with my hands covered by tape gloves (which they show you how to make, and are invaluable I've realised), I'm still missing a fair bit of skin at the moment!

Chris! fucked around with this message at 09:17 on Jul 23, 2015

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Still B.A.E posted:

Yeah these are really good videos. Also cool pictures, I bet that was well fun.

It was great! If you're in the UK, I think they do those classes semi-regularly around different locations, so look out for it. Really good value.

In other news, I'm going on a 3 week climbing holiday, leaving tomorrow, and my beautifully broken in La Sportiva Miuras got a split in the toe box last night. I've bought a new pair but really don't fancy the thought of having to break them in on an actual extended climbing trip... haven't got much choice, I'm wearing them around the office today!

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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Still B.A.E posted:

Is the split on the inside edge of the shoe, next to the big toe? Both mine and my mate's split there, kinda poo poo.

It's here:

I bought them second hand so can't complain, but it's really annoying the day before a big trip. I think it was all the torquing and jamming at the crack climbing masterclass that did them in.

The new ones are the same size but feel slightly more baggy, even though they're not broken in, plus are obviously less comfortable and less sensitive because of the more pronounced edge. I wanted to try the new "edgeless" style shoes, but can't experiment with a new make of shoe during a trip I've been waiting ages for. Plus the climbing centre didn't have any in last night. Bah :(

Chris! fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Jul 23, 2015

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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spwrozek posted:

If you aren't going to resole them I would just climb in them.

Yeah I've no problem climbing in them over here for single sessions until they're in much worse state, but I'm going away tomorrow to climb on basalt (which is apparently very sharp, never climbed on it before) for 3 weeks, and can't really risk it getting much worse over there without being able to buy new shoes. Hopefully the new shoes will break in without too much hassle or pain...!

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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I'm on a climbing / hiking holiday in Reunion island at the moment, and it's pretty amazing. The rock is basalt, which i'd never climbed on before, but which is super hard and often sharp. I'm still here but here are a few photos:






The middle two images are from yesterday - It was late in the day and the crag was entirely deserted. I did a long, hard route which used almost all my 60m rope (we tied a knot in the bottom of the rope just in case). I didn't quite have enough quickdraws so made an alpine quickdraw out of a sling and 2 spare carabiners. While I was climbing a heavy mist rolled in out of nowhere and engulfed us. I was preoccupied and didn't notice until I got near the top, and looked down into milky white cloud... My girlfriend lost sight of me entirely. The photos don't really do the mist justice!

The bottom picture, with the waterfall, spot the climber! (Not me, just some random guy on a big multipitch route).

Chris! fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jul 30, 2015

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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DMM have issued a product recall on some of their carabiners.

http://dmmclimbing.com/documents/dmm-product-safety-warning-11-09-2015.pdf

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Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

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SplitDestiny posted:

Last week we attempted to climb the Palisade Traverse, which is 5 14'er peaks in one day. We got 3 and it was insanely hard. I don't know how people do all 5 car to car.


Starlight Peak with Mount Sill on the left


Trying to negotiate back to the ridge


More Starlight


Other Climbs:

Matthes Crest



Tuolomne climbs

Oh my God, Matthes Crest looks so good to scramble over. That all looks incredible.

I think I've trapped a nerve in my shoulder or neck (again) - I've had mild shooting pains down my right arm on and off for about a week. Taking a break from climbing until it hopefully sorts itself out. I had the same thing earlier this year and it lasted a couple of months then went away. I just overdid it indoors last week, I'm training for a trip to Spain next month and really wish I had taken it easier :(

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