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RabidWeasel posted:This is going to be kind of an e/n post but here goes: 6a+ lead / 6c toprope indoors isn't too bad after 7 months. And that really isn't that long - basically keep at it with the same frequency and you'll get better. I was pretty dispirited after the first 6-12 months of climbing, as my partner was just naturally better / stronger than me. As it happens, he stopped having time to climb shortly after that, and now 3 years on whenever we climb together I'm a good 4-5 grades higher than him. So keep putting in the frequency of climbing, try and shed any excess weight (I heard for every excess kilogram you lose, you can pretty much gain a climbing grade... Or something like that). And when you're feeling bad about any perceived genetic disadvantages, feel good that you don't have a 5'3 ape index!  Also don't worry too much about grades. The best climber is the one having the most fun.
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Oct 21, 2015 08:45
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RabidWeasel posted:To put it in more detail, the problem I have is this: I need to clip, while doing this I need to have one hand off of the wall for a while. Doing this usually makes my active hand and wrist feel like poo poo, even on relatively good holds, and on some routes I will be feeling weak and unable to grip properly after just a few clips. Sometimes I can position myself where this isn't a problem but I'm not good at being able to judge when this is possible. If I'm feeling totally hosed a short rope rest will always sort things out for the next clip or two but then I need to rest again. Not sure how much option you have, if possible maybe try working less overhanging routes? Very overhanging routes knock my grades down a fair way. Also concentrate on not over-gripping, keeping your arms straight and footwork - the arm holding you to the wall while you clip should be relaxed, you should be in a comfortable position with your feet solidly planted and taking as much of the weight as possible, and your hips angling the weight over your toes rather than hanging off your arm, and your arm should be straight and not over-gripping. Sorry if this is all obvious to you, just stuff to concentrate on to hopefully make clipping easier...
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Oct 21, 2015 17:52
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RabidWeasel posted:Thanks for all the advice, guys. I had a much better session on Thursday, the gym re set a couple of sections of wall which hadn't been touched for a while and I made myself on sight lead all the new routes - a couple of 5s to get in the mood and a feel for the route settings followed by 3 6as and a 6b, all routes clean first time with no beta which I was pretty happy about. They were mostly corner / chimney climbs with natural rest points so perhaps they weren't really working my 'weak points' but I think it did me a lot of good to realise that yes I can actually lead climb decently if I don't let myself get flustered. Great! Onsight leading 6b after 10 months or whatever is pretty good, nice job 
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Oct 24, 2015 14:41
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Planning to go to Canada for 3 weeks next year, in early August, to the British Columbia area. It looks amazing online; especially Squamish. My girlfriend will be with me, we'll be doing a lot of hiking and a lot of climbing. Anything I need to know before I book? I've mostly sport climbed before, but I'm aware that Squamish is mostly trad; I've done only a little trad, I guess a trip would be improved if I spend time early next year improving those skills. Is it a good area to visit?
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Nov 6, 2015 23:06
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:That's great! Climbing outdoors is the best, but you have to be much more thoughtful about it than climbing at the gym. I'll be a narcissist and quote a couple posts I've made in here about the gym-to-crag transition. Hopefully they're at least marginally useful. This is all great advice!
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Dec 3, 2015 14:03
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shabbat goy posted:What's the break-in like for climbing shoes, typically? Between my dividends and end of year clearance, I got a good deal on some Evolv Shaman's at REI and they're quite a bit different from the gym rentals (I am not surprised by this.) It's not a struggle to fit my foot in and I feel like if they break in or stretch at all they'll be perfect, but if that's not gonna happen I may trade them in for a half size larger. They sound ok to me - even synthetic shoes will mold to your feet a little bit, and it sounds like they only need to break in or stretch very slightly to become less uncomfortable. As long as they're not actually painful, perhaps just slightly uncomfortable, you should be good after 1 month or so of climbing. But if they're agonising, they're likely too small.
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Jan 21, 2016 08:33
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Has anyone climbed in Norway, specifically the Rogaland / Stavanger region? I'm heading there for a few days next week, have a guidebook on order, but wondered if anyone has any recommendations (climbing or otherwise).
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May 23, 2016 12:39
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toiletbrush posted:I haven't climbed there but visited Forsand and Preikestolen/Pulpit Rock three years ago and spent the whole time wishing I'd brought my climbing shoes, the place is amazing. Standing on the edge of Pulpit Rock was the first time I got shaky knees from heights! Thanks for the reply! We're definitely going to visit Preikestolen, how did you find the hike there and back? Any other recommendations for non-climbing things to do in the region?
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May 24, 2016 07:21
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Thanks for the recommendations! That all sounds great. The climbing guidebook turned up today and it looks like there's a lot of fun climbing in the area, though not many lower grades for my girlfriend. We leave next Tuesday, I can't wait
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May 24, 2016 22:57
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ButtPoopPoopyyGoku3 posted:is there a thing somewhere for converting different climbing grades etc? for bouldering my gym uses v0-v5 ish same as this thread but for the top rope stuff it's numbered roughly from 10-30 where <13 is probably doable for someone who's never climbed and 21+ is quite hard and 25+ is cool even to watch strangers do, which is nothing like any of the systems i've seen mentioned in this thread. I'm in Australia. This site has grade conversions including Australia: http://www.mec.ca/AST/ContentPrimary/Learn/Climbing/IntroToClimbing/ClimbingGradeConversion.jsp Velcro shoes can be just as high-end as lace-ups, I think it just comes down to what you prefer. Personally I prefer lace-ups as I feel you can get more control over the tightness, but don't have a problem with Velcro, you can get some great Velcro shoes - whatever feels comfy, it's a good idea to try them on first though, as the shape of the shoe needs to be right for your foot shape, moreso than with normal shoes!
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May 27, 2016 07:36
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On a sport climbing trip in Norway, arrived last night and the airline has left all our equipment in London, as well as most of our suitable hiking boots and stuff. And can't tell us when it'll arrive, might be tomorrow or any other time within the next 2 days, we're going home Sunday. Soooo, gently caress norwegianair.
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Jun 1, 2016 16:40
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Well apart from climbing we want to go hiking, and they won't refund us buying hiking boots for my girlfriend, so I doubt they'd cover new rope, harnesses and quickdraws and stuff  Hoping to hear some good news soon though! Apart from the baggage issues, there's TONS of nice looking rock in the area, and Norwegians are extremely friendly!
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Jun 1, 2016 20:52
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