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Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~
Neat, a climbing thread! I recently (November-ish?) started climbing in a local gym. I've been doing only bouldering so far, but there's a roped gym that I have access to that I'll be checking out at some point.

There's a Metolius wooden hangboard at work that I use sometimes. I'm still new so I don't do pull-ups or anything on it, just hang for a bit.

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Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~

Wow, I totally want a buffalo one. This is awesome.

Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~

canvasbagfight posted:

I've recently gotten back into climbing after a 6 year hiatus. I have some Evos that have a good amount of rubber left on them from 2007, but they feel awfully slippery even after taking steel wool to them. Is there any hope or does the rubber compound just age beyond salvage?

A number of things can degrade the rubber on shoes. Plenty of places will resole them for you, and it's way cheaper than getting new shoes. Unless you want new shoes anyway. And if that's the case, there are few places you can donate you old shoes so they can recycle them to make new ones.

Niyqor posted:

Completely anecdotal but my backup pair of shoes are pretty ancient (actually unsure how old, just know at least 6 years..

hahaha those aren't old! My dad uses pair of La Sportiva shoes he bought in '79. Those are ancient shoes. Of course, he's had them resoled a few times, but still.


In shoe-related talk, I have a longer second toe that smashes in the front of my shoes. I'd been waiting for it to happen, but today my nail finally fell off. It didn't hurt, but it definitely gave me the willies. Anyway, does anyone else experience this? What shoes do you use? Or are my mutant toes doomed? For reference, I have Mad Rock Banshees.

Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~

Recycle Bin posted:

I'm trying to learn proper technique/footwork. I saw some videos on drop knees and flagging, but none of them really discuss when to use one over the other (or neither). As near as I can tell, you drop knee when you have two footholds, and you flag when you only have one foothold?

You're right on flagging, it's to help you balance against the wall when you only have one foot hold.

But as far as I understand it, drop knee is more for pushing off sideways, or at an angle where you need the extra leverage. For example, you wouldn't drop your knee if you just needed to stand up onto a foothold, unless the hold was at your hip. It's not dependent on how many holds you have, it's about how it affects your body movement.

Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~

Irving posted:

Anyone in southern California know when Sender One is opening? They've had some preview events, but I can't seem to find out when they're actually doing their grand opening.

http://www.senderoneclimbing.com/

I heard a rumor they'll open in late May. Which seems to be supported on their calendar for yoga classes, which begin the last week in May.

Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~

Irving posted:

Anyone in southern California know when Sender One is opening? They've had some preview events, but I can't seem to find out when they're actually doing their grand opening.

http://www.senderoneclimbing.com/

Reformed Tomboy posted:

I heard a rumor they'll open in late May. Which seems to be supported on their calendar for yoga classes, which begin the last week in May.

Actually, this came up at work today. Soft opening (what ever the hell that means) June 1st, grand opening June 15th.

Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~
Earlier today I checked out the Sender One grand opening. I signed up as a member at one of their preview tours so I got to skip the line to get in. It was so packed! About 80% of the areas are open and ready. They have a ton of roped climbs up, the bouldering area was finished, but only half of it was set. I stayed for a while but didn't climb, as it was just too busy. There were little lines set up at each climb as people waited. Chatted with some of the product reps outside, saw some cool gear, etc, etc.

I don't know who else is local, but you should definitely go for a day to check it out.

Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~

Petey posted:

Mine - which are 6 years old at this point - seem to be permanently dusty / chalkdusty to the point where the traction seems to be suffering. However, if this isn't a straightforward question, then there may well be something wrong with my shoes as opposed to them being dirty / dusty / etc.

To answer your question, water (and maybe some mild soap) is usually enough to clean soles. However at 6 years, they could also be getting worn out. Clean them first and see how they do. Otherwise get them resoled or replace them.

Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~

triskadekaphilia posted:

I just bought some La Sportiva Cobras size 38.5 off backcountry, because I have nowhere to try them on locally. I'm a women's 9.5-10 typically, so that's putting me down 2-2.5 sizes from my street shoes, but the reviews all range from saying to get them from 2 sizes down to 4 (which sounds really extreme to me, but I am far from an advanced climber so...).

I have Five Ten Rogues right now that I think are equivalent to a women's 9, and I never liked the way the fit/they didn't stretch like I thought they would. Am I going to be miserable in the Cobras? How painfully tight should they be when I first put them on, so I know if I need to go up or down with a return? I really like the idea of the slip-ons, because my gym is almost exclusively bouldering and I moved to FL so it's not like I'm going to be climbing trad, or outdoors period, anytime soon again.

My guess is that the reason the Rogue's didn't stretch out as much as you thought they would is because the tops are synthetic, not leather (synthetic stretches less and differently than leather does). The part around your foot is leather, but not the tops. Expect the Cobra's to break in very well and stretch out nearly a full size. This is because they are fully leather and unlined. That is probably why people are saying 4 sizes down, because after they break in they'll be closer to only 3 sizes down.

As for fitting, they should be very tight and slightly uncomfortable, but not painful. You basically want them to feel on the verge of pain, but without pain. This ensures the fit will still be good after they stretch, but not cause injury before hand. The un-comfort will lessen as they stretch out. Just make sure your toes are not too pinched as the toe box (and anywhere that is covered in rubber) won't stretch.

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Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~

tynam posted:

Question - when did you all start training on hangboards? (If at all?)

I'd hang on a hang board at 3 months, but not attempt to do any 'proper' exercises on it.

tynam posted:

snip - I want to see if I can get to a point where I can even attempt crimpy holds.

Ask your gym to put up a crimp ladder - V1, all crimps, straight up a wall. It helps beginners learn how to grab crimps without also having to focus on other stuff as when working on a real problem. My gym had one up for like 4 weeks, and every time I'd just work it until my arms gave out. I was really sad when they took it down... I should see if they'll do it again.

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