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I’m stuck between V1-V2 problems; it feels like things are “climbing a ladder” easy or “gently caress you” difficulty. It’s frustrating, but it’s been really good for my top rope climbing because my body tension and mechanics needed a lot of work. I’m not very good at them yet but overhung projects are super fun!
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# ¿ Aug 15, 2019 21:06 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 05:39 |
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It looks like there’s a hold slightly higher than the one that you put your right foot on, could you use that to get higher?
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2019 05:03 |
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RabidWeasel posted:That seems loving crazy to me, my biggest problem with parkour is that I'd really like to try it out (in a controlled setting, not the classic "just throw yourself off walls" poo poo) and I don't know anywhere local. Feels like it would teach me at least some skills that I lack when it comes to climbing plus it looks really fun. Look at gymnastics gyms, there is usually a fair bit of overlap with parkour. Same if your area has a circus training center.
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# ¿ Sep 14, 2019 19:50 |
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I wear EE or EEE width and have been really happy with the Scarpa Instinct VS. I tried the Vapor V and didn’t like the toe box fit as much; now that the Intincts are breaking in they are great, although I do take them off between routes.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2019 07:38 |
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I haven’t made it climbing outside but I do a lot of canyoneering, and I don’t cheap out on carabiners. Protective gear is not where you want to cut corners on material quality, fabrication or cost. Your life literally depends on it.
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2019 00:28 |
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I’ve been climbing in a Petzl Adjama in the gym on and off for about 2 years, and am converting my BD Momentum, which was my canyoning harness, over to my outdoor climbing harness. Both would be fine for either application. I have too many harnesses.
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# ¿ Jan 21, 2020 21:26 |
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I bought a Trango Rock Prodigy a few weeks ago and started doing hangboard work 1-2x week. After two weeks of relative consistency - along with some their weights and cardio work - I already feel a bit of a difference.
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# ¿ May 4, 2020 03:20 |
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Please also link the company, I would be interested in specifying their work on some projects.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2020 03:32 |
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I also canyoneer and a good waterproof headlamp can get there, but is worth it
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2020 05:42 |
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I have duck feet (EE/EEE) and have to upsize from my regular shoe size, even with a wide shoe. I got some aggressive Instinct VS and they are great for the gym but the sucked really really bad when I went outdoors. They would have also been real bad for multi pitch, so I was glad to have my first pair, some comfortable Black Diamonds, to swap out.
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# ¿ Aug 27, 2020 04:12 |
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Electoral Surgery posted:Sucked really bad like they were painful, or you could't keep your feet on? Painful. What makes sense in the gym - taking the shoes off between routes - was a PITA at the crag. We were also climbing moderates, and the less aggressive shoes were fine. I couldn’t imagine wearing them on a multi pitch route.
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# ¿ Aug 29, 2020 02:12 |
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Spent the weekend at a canyoneering roundup in Red Rock Canyon and went out with a very experienced friend and mentor, who followed me as I led all 5 5.6 pitches of Geronimo. It was my first trad lead AND my first multi-pitch lead - probably a little ambitious but the climb went well and it gave me a huge confidence boost. Before this point I had only cleaned one trad route and done ground school gear placement work once while climbing with guides. Climbing a very mellow route helped a lot - it gave me time to think about placements and take my time - each pitch took me about an hour, so probably twice as long as it should have taken. I had such a blast, I cannot wait to climb more trad. I’d been putting off the lead test at the gym, and definitely need to get that done. I’m fortunate that my wife is my best climbing partner, so we should both be able to work on some skills. My wife and I went out for a crag day in the Calico Hills, mostly hanging out in the Amusement Park and at Panty Wall. I like the sandstone at Red Rock MUCH more than the monzonite at Joshua Tree; it’s a longer drive from coastal SoCal but I think I’ll be coming back here even more often than I already do. Climbing outdoors … good?
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# ¿ Oct 21, 2021 06:03 |
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Niyqor posted:I'm thinking about squeezing in a short trip around New Years somewhere, kind of assuming in the US but I suppose that doesn't have to be since it would need to be a flight anyways. I climbed Red Rock Canyon for the first time about a month ago and really enjoyed it, loads of climbing all over the place. The proximity to Vegas means services are readily available and access is easy, although entry to the park is on a quota system for the foreseeable future. Also the sandstone is fantastic to climb. January is also prime season for Joshua Tree, but it’s a little more out of the way for travelers. I’m becoming less of a fan of the granite in the park as I spend more and more time climbing other places. That said - it’s an iconic destination with tons of classics. Anza Borrego fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Nov 19, 2021 |
# ¿ Nov 19, 2021 04:06 |
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Augster posted:Found a local old quarry wall that hadn't been climbed before so I spent that past couple weekends cleaning it and did the FAs of a few nice lines. Basically highball bouldering on a rope/Brit-style trad. This one was my favorite: This is extremely cool, please post more about it. I’ve been doing the “basic fitness” part of the Training for the New Alpinism routine in preparation for summer alpine climbing, hopefully one of the routes up Whitney. I’m a few weeks in and my climbing has mostly been focused on volume - climbing 2 number grades lower than my limit, and running at least 2 laps on every route. The goal is to climb in Zone 1 and 2, so I’m wearing a HRM while on the wall. It’s taken some time to dial in the pace but all the volume definitely feels like it is helping me out as I start to add limit climbing back in. So far the program is solid, and combined with healthy eating has helped get me in better climbing shape. I’m not sure if I will be able to hit all of the workouts, but if I can do most of the plan I should be prepared for East Buttress and/or Fishhook Arete in July or August. Setting goals and following a training plan… good?
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2022 07:44 |
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Parappa the Dapper posted:The campsite next to us had some old school trad climbers that were fun to talk with. Their gear was 🤯 Was their gear super old? Photos look great, I’d very much like to climb the Valley some day. Led a multipitch trad route in Idyllwild yesterday. Jenson’s Jaunt 5.6 and encountered my first offwidth in the wild. It wasn’t THAT hard but the exposure and trying to REALLY having to figure out how to chicken wing made it spicier than I expected. I was following that pitch and was impressed that my partner was able to lead it without falling. There was still some daylight left by the time we came down the friction route so I ended up leading p1 of The Long Climb 5.8, which is 40m of fist crack. My hands are pretty ripped up but I definitely leveled up on my crack technique. This was a trip of firsts for me: I took my first gear fall, from just a few feet above a BD #2, and bootied gear for the first time: a small ball nut, a brown tri-cam and some Trango runners. We wanted to climb Fingertrip 5.7 but got a late start to the day and there was a lineup by the time we got there. Fortunately the rest of the crag wasn’t too busy. I had hit a bit of a lull in my training lately and this was definitely the shot in the arm I needed to get back into things. I’d really like to lead all of The Long Climb but don’t think I am there physically yet - one of the final pitches has a 5.9 roof that sounds scary - but it’s a good training goal to set. Tahquitz Start of The Long Climb. I think the hand crack (left of the two) is an alternate start? FA went up the offwidth, in 1936. Those guys had balls.
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# ¿ May 23, 2022 05:17 |
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magicalmako posted:Was the approach the worst thing ever? It’s not that bad, about 45 minutes? El Cajon Mountain in SD is WAY worse.
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# ¿ May 23, 2022 15:01 |
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Details on your trip, please. Have considered going there to canyoneer, unsurprising that there is climbing.
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# ¿ Nov 21, 2022 00:45 |
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Saw a good sale so I got myself a lil early Christmas present…. Probably will scoop up doubles after the New Year if the sales are good, also want to get one of the Tommy Caldwell Edlerid ropes but waffling on whether the color version is worth the extra $100 Anyone else filling out their racks with holiday sales?
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# ¿ Dec 20, 2022 00:28 |
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Miyar Adventures and Ascent Outdoors had them marked down 20% or so about two weeks ago, I slept on it and got them for 15% off last week. Miyar is back up to $85 now but it looks like Ascent Cycles has them for $81 but they only have one each of black, yellow and blue. I found em all through Google Shopping, it will find you the cheapest prices. Anza Borrego fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Dec 20, 2022 |
# ¿ Dec 20, 2022 03:20 |
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ploots posted:Always pay for the bicolor rope This is just the kind of push I need Probably wait until after the New Year unless I can find a sizzling deal E: no one has 70m at good prices Anza Borrego fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Dec 20, 2022 |
# ¿ Dec 20, 2022 03:22 |
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Hot take, Red Rock Canyon NCA is a better climbing destination than JTree. Rock isn’t as mean, tons of routes, easily accessible if you just want to sport crag but tons of multipitch out in the backcountry. I also hate runout friction slab, so I am biased. Got a trip planned to RR in May and I hope I can get there sooner.
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# ¿ Mar 24, 2023 07:36 |
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Natty Ninefingers posted:It is annoyingly hard trying to find climbing shoes to fit big wide feet Scarpa Vapor VS have been good for me, a fellow duck-footed person, as a project shoe I got TC Pros for long multipitch days and they are passable but not great, think I’m going to try the Butora imitation when this pair fails
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# ¿ May 15, 2023 04:40 |
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tildes posted:Re: shoes for super wide (or otherwise weird) feet, I would super recommend Acopa: https://acopaoutdoors.com/ Thanks for posting this! I’m starting to wear through my project shoes and will almost certainly try out one of their pairs for my giant flipper feet. If I do I will post a trip report. They also have a bunch of rad custom options!
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# ¿ May 24, 2023 04:54 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 05:39 |
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Slimy Hog posted:This is the advice I'm gonna take. Thanks everyone! User name checks out
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# ¿ Mar 4, 2024 22:06 |