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spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

Podcasts about climbing? Sure, why not.

I like these two, if anyone has others please add to the thread:

http://enormocast.com/

http://www.dirtbagdiaries.com/

Also, I miss the pictures from the old thread, but I guess most were broken.

Random Google image serch for trad climbing:



My rack when it was mostly new:



Me @ Lincon falls Colorado a few years back:

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spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

pbpancho posted:

I'm the opposite, I like that I don't have the crutch of taking to rest so I have to send the route in one go, and the ones at my gyms (Vertical Endeavors) work in a way that if you fall on a sketchy move, you are just slowly lowered to the ground. I don't use them all the time but they are lifesavers for when I just want to run laps or practice a little early in the morning.

EDIT: Also, our autobelays have alarms that sound if you go more than 8ft up or so and are not clipped in.

On a different note, got to ice climb for the second time today! The Minnesota Climbers Association partnered with a local town the last few years to get permission to install an ice farming system in an old quarry (there is some natural flow here but the farming makes it a really great spot. They also have a bunch of bolted rock climbs here, and most of the flows have bolts at the top for easy anchors too, so it's a really great place to learn ice climbing.

Warming up on the "bunny hill"


Rapping down the "bunny hill" after cleaning or anchor


On to the real deal!


The guys that run the farming have also been experimenting with LEDs embedded in the ice. Here are some results so far:


Awesome pics! I would love to get more into ice but it is pretty intimidating. I have been 3 - 4 times top roping with the Colordao Mt Club. I have been looking for some tools on craigslist. I have pretty much everything else I need. I think I would feel good setting up topropes on ice, I have set up a few v-threads for practice and trees are abound. I know a few places in Colorado to try to go, but most ice climbers here are secretive, not enough ice to go around and all that. Leading on ice.... that will have to wait a few years or forever. I started leading trad last summer and it's more then enough to get the old heart going. Leading ice, talk about nerves!

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

ZeroDays posted:

One thing that I've found pretty annoying is that my regular climbing partner is about 6'3" and I'm only 5'7", and it sometimes seems like we're doing different climbs.

6'3" here, with long arms to boot. Sometimes I feel like I am cheating, especially when I am climbing with my son. He is 10 and tall for his age but I doubt he is 5' yet. One of the kid coaches at the gym said it's about 1 - 2 grades harder for kids based on hight / reach alone.

I am jonesing to get outside. It's been unseasonably warm in Denver the last month or so but still to cold to climb... at least for me. The few days it has been really nice I have been busy. Oh well, I need to be a better climber anyhow, most of the climbs I was to do are lead / trad and I'm just not that confident in my leading and endurance yet to climb much more then 5.7 trad multi-pitch. Starting to lead 5.10 in the gym so, hey, progress!

Anyone else intimidated by an area? I have been climbing in Eldo / flatirons / Boulder canyon and I always think I suck to much to be climbing here. It is true that there are always incredible climbers out everywhere here, but it's not the people, more that I need to be better just to deserve to climb here. Last time I was at Eldorado three different parties had flown in from around the country just to climb here. All I did was leave work 30min early. Maybe I feel weird since I started doing the trad thing having never really climbed a sport route outside, top-roped plenty but never clipped bolts. It's like I skipped a step. I guess I'm saying I need to get my rear end climbing more so my skill match what I think they should be. My climbing partner said something to the effect of he will consider himself a "real" climber when he can lead 5.11 (we did not specify, but I'm pretty sure he meant in a gym) I don't know, on the other hand at the end of last year I felt like a pretty awesome a.k.a. "real" climber leading a 4 - 5 pitch trad route even if the climbing was easy.

TL;DR Thinking to much, not climbing enough

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

PRADA SLUT posted:

Is there a video detailing the correct way to belay a toproper using an ATC? Ive been told I'm doing something wrong but half the loving videos are people arguing about where you put your hands.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-a0FLqwPL8

I was taught the another way, that sucked. Pinching slide with your breaking arm not locked off much of the time. I was converted, BUS is much better since you are locked off by default. Break under slide for life!

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib



Only one option, lycra!

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

pbpancho posted:

Got to do my first-ever trad lead today! It was just a slabby 5.5ish corner crack but it was still pretty cool. I'm out in Red Rock Canyon with a couple buddies and tomorrow we're tackling Cat in the Hat, at 650' 5.6 multipitch! I may even give the 50' 5.5 pitch a shot at leading, we shall see!

Leading Trad is awesome! I started last summer and remember my first lead like it just happened. I'll bet if felt like a 5.ohshit placing gear and being on the sharp end the first time. Gives you a different perspective, don't it?

I have heard a general guideline is to climb 1 to 2 grades lower then you lead sport in the gym for outdoor sport and then 1 - 2 grades lower then that for trad. Seems about right, I can sport lead 5.10 in a gym and the hardest pitch I lead trad was 5.6. Never sport climbed outside but I would like to give it a go this summer. I will have to beg Goons to teach the noob sport climbing in clear creek this spring, I'll trade leading multi pitch trad in Eldo / flatirons. I can't wait to get back outside. We've had some good weather in Denver but I have not been climbing outside in months. Now we have 12"+ snow forecast for the weekend

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

Got off work early Firday and went to Eldorado, first time outside since the fall. It was awesome, 70 degrees out and great climbing. I lead Calypso "only" a 5.6 but a classic Colorado climb I have wanted since I started doing the trad thing. The first pitch was amazing.

Everyone likes pictures right?

The "Wind tower" in Eldorado, lived up to it's name that day, communications were harder then we thought they would be due to wind / river noise:



Bottom of Calypso, totally run out for the first 15' but not scary:



My buddy following / cleaning:



This next piece of gear was stuck from someone else, he wanted it bad (free gear!) but could not get it out.



Me, goofy as hell at the top of the first pitch, Bastille crack in the background. I was feeling (and looking....) pretty rad:



Get outside everyone.

What a day, felt great to be outside again. I can't wait for the some more nice days and the season to kick into gear. I have a list a mile long of 5.6 - 5.8 in the frontrange I am ready to lead all spring / summer long!

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

PRADA SLUT posted:

I've got this blister on my ankle from my shoes. What can I put on it so it doesn't bother me while I climb? Tape isn't cutting it.

moleskin should do the trick.

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

tortilla_chip posted:

Why? Are you concerned with weight? If not, then cams are way more versatile.

I've got to agree. I can't see the use of hexes over cams unless it's for nostalgia factor or I guess cost.

On the topic of over specialized trad gear I bought myself a #2 Trango Bigbro. I wanted to add a big piece to my rack and was looking at a #4 c4 camalot but they are huge / expensive / heavy. I got the bigbro, let's see if I can find somewhere good to place it. Seems like folks love or hate the Bigbros, guess I'll find out soon enough. Hope to take it to Vedauwoo in a few months.

I'll probably get the #4 C4 anyway, and a #5 and some of the new X4's .... who needs to pay mortgage?

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

gamera009 posted:

You can find cheap as hell Evolvs online. Same with 5.10s. Keep an eye on Steep/Cheep and the like. You'll see stuff for cheap (sub-$80) eventually.

To add to cheap shoes, https://www.theclymb.com has some great deals if you feet are the right size. It's gilt.com for outdoors stuff, if anyone wants an invite PM me or email me I guess. myusername@gmail.com

I'm going camping / climbing at Vedauwoo for the first time this weekend, super psyched! Off-widths here I come

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

For content, I was in St. George, Utah visiting relatives a few weeks ago. I have driven though Zion national park a few years ago and wanted to go back so... I hired a guide and took my son and myself canyoneering! It was awesome, we technically were not in Zion as the park does not allow guided trips (sounds dumb, but whatever). We did two canyons, a total of like 10 repels and a bunch of downclimbing and slot squeezing. It was amazing, like nothing else like I have done on rock. Our guide even put up a top rope for us, we did not have shoes but climbed a few easy, fun routes nonetheless.

This is the only pic I have handy, my son got better ones:



I would love to go out and do more someday, those guys do some crazy stuff. Any canyoneers in this thread?

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

Found a great video on trad leading / swapping leads. This is the best thing of the sort I have seen online so far.

Want to know how those guys climb without bolts in the rocks? This is pretty much exactly how I was taught and what I do (You could argue that the first belay station was not very multi-directional and I have never cloved in one of the points of my cordellet, but these things are always debatable and there are 100 ways to skin a cat)

http://vimeo.com/33940152

In other news I climbed the 1st flatiron. I lead the first pitch of 5 and on the second pitch it started raining like a mother fucker. Not a little drizzle, a full on downpour. We thought of trying to bail but decided to just go for it. My partner lead the pitch in the rain and I followed, that was something else.... the climbing was easy but it's mostly run out (like 4 or 5 pieces of pro for a full 60m rope length) slabby friction climbing. After around 20 - 30 min it stopped and we had a great time topping out. We each got to lead 2 pitches and did a little simul-climbing at the end. I did not like climbing in the rain but it was not as bad as I would have thought. Would have been better if I had not forgotten a rain jacket climbing 4 - 5 pitches and 1000+feet is pretty cool. 1 down 4 to go (I would like to climb all the named flatirons this summer)

Have fun, stay safe, and dry!

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

modig posted:

Going into your story I thought you were this guy. I'm glad you weren't that guy.

Yall should strive to avoid being that guy, unless you really and in a bad situation, then definitely call rescue, but try not to get into horrible situations.

Wow, we were on Fandango as well. We got off route half way up and probably switched the the direct face. What's the story with that group? But drat, those kids had no idea did they? That guy was not even wet.... we were climbing in a straight up downpour, not hiding under a flake The lighting was a little scary, but I have been in much worse in high alpine hikes (ozone smell, hair standing up, ice axe buzzing) They also have the same rope I have. I hate it, it's to stiff and handles like crap. You think things like that won't bother you much but they do, should have just spent the extra $40 and got a 9.8 or something.

pbpancho posted:

What a bunch of goddamn morons.

Yep, I don't understand the rescue thing, I mean they had lights or at least one light and it stopped raining... should have just rapped down. Oh well hope they learned something and take the opportunity to become better prepared next time. Who am I loving kidding that guy has no chance, I mean he was practically bragging about getting rescued.

So, in addition to technique, strength, climbing skill and all that, please try to know what you are doing out there. Self rescue is the best rescue.

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spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

^ We went across the street from you to Cob rock Sunday morning.

Climbed "North Face Center" (lamest name for a climb ever) with the 5.7+ crack finish.

Holyshit! this was my hardest trad lead yet. 5.7+ my rear end. If you ever find yourself on a Layton Kor route remember he was a known sandbagger in the 50s and 60s when 5.10 was the hardest climb around. FYI this is the Second Layton Kor 5.7 that kicked my rear end, I can't wait until the next!

This route humbled me and my partner. I have been thinking I need to push my trad leading and get up a grade or two. "poo poo, I'm leading 5.10s in the gym and top roping a few 5.11s" I am now in no rush to get past of 5.7 / 5.8. Good bye ego. It was the perfect combo of physical and mental challenge. The second pitch, my lead, was a awesome hand crack with good pro, but just hand / fist jams. No face holds and no real feet, just smears and a few toe jams. Very exposed. Pucker moments for sure!

Cob rock:


Panoramic image from bottom of climb:


Starting up:


Can't help but cheese it up with instagram:


Topping out the hand crack:


Creek crossing, never done one of these before, it was fun!

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