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modig posted:Any Boulder goons want to get out on Sunday? Depends on the time but I might. I'm busy until 2pm though. 
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Jul 7, 2013 04:26
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Modig and I went up to upper satellites. Super fun. Super uncharted. Super "I suck at climbing" session. Good times. I'll post pics soon. edit: Alas, the only really good picture:  P1020287 by  , on Flickr
gamera009 fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 05:08
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evol262 posted:Side pulls and heel hooking -- exactly the way the image shows. I'm not sure how I'd get over nose (not that great of a boulderer), but it doesn't look impossible. This is verbatim what our discussion was and then we tried the problem. Laughter and crying ensued. edit: I like that Modig called this problem a V3 when some other climbers stopped by. gamera009 fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 22:19
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modig posted:Every problem is V3, because the parts I can do are about V3, and I can't rate the parts I can't do. This is a philosophy I can get behind. The two guys that came after us were working on Yo Adrian after we left and looked very very confused. 
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Jul 9, 2013 15:05
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Nothing wrong with spotting, even in the gym. Even with big pads and floors that are nice mats, things go wrong. Having a spotter on taller problems or ceilings where turning an ankle, or landing on the neck and head is possible is essential. I have seen far too many people, even incredibly gifted climbers, take a bad fall without a spotter and end up with an injury (torn ACL in one case). Then there's the issue of climbing in an environment where there are people around - not everyone is going to fall directly down below themselves, so it's a good idea to have someone around to ensure nobody lands on a bystander. Bad spotting is bad, and there's no disagreement with that statement, but I argue that a good spotter is an effective way of reducing the chances of serious injury. You want them outside, there's no reason to avoid them inside if you're climbing just as hard.
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Jul 11, 2013 20:49
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Spent the morning with spwrozek at Cascade Crag. Super relaxed.    P1020319 by , on FlickrNot shown afterwards: Avery beer and food at the tap room and discussing the perils of snowboarding.
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Jul 21, 2013 00:16
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modig posted:I just looked that place up, gamera knows how to rock the buisness casual climbing for real. You know I am king of biz-caz. I even brought donuts!
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Jul 21, 2013 01:04
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I have been climbing for about five+ years now. I'm a solid V4/5.10- climber. I set at the campus gym and I try to set what I think is interesting, along with stuff I know I need to work on. It seems to work well, between my relative inability to climb well and my utter lack of strength. I end up setting fairly easy problems that have one technical crux. gamera009 fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jul 29, 2013 |
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Jul 29, 2013 03:15
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matryx posted:I love it when that happens. Being a tall and lanky git and continually staticing bits designed for dynoing I inspired a couple of akward angle dynos (including backwards) to specifically stop stetch bastard from just reaching over and avoiding the problem. Personally, I try to set a mix of problems so "lanky tall people" aren't always simply reaching and "winning." We have a reasonably tight cave-ish area and I set fairly compressed, tight balance problems that all the shorter people love, but the tall people hate. But I also always set a few that require strong reach and lock-offs. I try to avoid setting dynos as the area is a little small for anything crazy. They can be fun, but I'd hate to think that I can't get around a tall person's reach without resorting to awkward dynos.
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Jul 31, 2013 13:42
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Tarnien posted:I spray mine with a little Lysol and put a dryer sheet in them every couple of uses, which holds off the smell for a while. You'll want to wash them eventually, though. I wear Evolvs. I manage the odor by shoving them in a pillow sack and washing them with towels. Cold/gentle cycle with mild detergent. Hang dry. Between washes I use the stuff for athlete's foot/jock itch (the spray). Keeps the odor minimal for a month or so between washings.
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Aug 2, 2013 16:38
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Went climbing with modig at Satellites today and promptly embarrassed myself. News at 11. Had a lot of fun though! I just wish my hands weren't so baby smooth and weak.
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Aug 4, 2013 06:33
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Got on The Young and The Rackless on Blob Rock to practice for Royal Flush. Excellent climbing early in the morning with perfect weather - not too cool, and we got to see the sun peeking over the canyon walls as we hit the last pitch. Gorgeous stuff. A definite must if you have the time to run up (around 3 hours car to car). Also, climbed right past a raptor nest. Empty, but you could see all of the craziness you'd expect in a raptor nest. Thankfully, the eagle had flown past us about thirty minutes earlier while we were on the first pitch. And now, terrible photography: View from the top.  View from the last anchors.  View from the bottom:  Here's a look at the nest:  gamera009 fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Aug 9, 2013 |
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Aug 9, 2013 19:54
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Welp. Booked the day off on Thursday to go do this thing. We're planning on the Aces High start early in the morning to link into the rest of Royal Flush. Shouldn't be too hard, hopefully. I just want the endurance training.
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Aug 13, 2013 15:50
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JustAnother Fat Guy posted:That route looks unironically awesome. I rarely get to see many sports multi-pitches in the UK as we are a trad mad nation when it comes to our climbing. The whole idea of alternative pitches for harder climbing alongside a generally cool route is really nice, and the belays look tres excellente. I do get tired of trad multi pitches sometime, they're just so much faff with directional pull pieces and such. Multiple climbing goons out this way. I'm sure someone can guide you around. My money is on modig since he is all up in the climbing of rocks and has superior gear to many of us. Also, he is tall and can reach difficult first clips without a stick-clip. Barring that, maybe spwrozek. Don't trust Discomancer. He will give bad beta and then make you haul him up the rock. And then he will eat a Builder bar and comment on how relaxed the pitch was. (He will climb hung over)  I will get you lost, climb poorly, and increase your risk of having to bail or dying by 3. But I am an excellent fishing guide!
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Aug 14, 2013 15:26
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who cares posted:Last night I got a flapper on my hand below where my pinky finger starts. Here is a picture. I have been starting to work on more problems with slopers and this was the result. If you haven't cut off the flap, then use superglue to put it back in place. Works fine for me and most climbers I know use it. If you already cut it off and cleaned everything, I would use some NuSkin or superglue to make a patch that covers it well. Taping over it is possible, but it typically means wrapping the whole goddamn thing. I prefer to either lay off it or just put a new "skin" over it with superglue. YMMV
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Aug 14, 2013 17:30
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Discomancer posted:Hey come on, half of that is a lie, my beta is okay heel hook it To be fair, it is an acceptable bouldering beta crutch.
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Aug 15, 2013 02:45
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Finished the Aces High variation of the Royal Flush. So it went really well. Pretty cruiser - we managed to use all of the 5.10 variants when we could, particularly the Aces High variant at the headwall. Verdict: classy and well worth the effort. And now, the photojournalism: View from the parking lot:  View from the base of the first pitch:  We ended up having to wait for two parties before us. Not too bad though - both were fairly quick. Not much to say, other than the view was amazing from nearly every set of anchors:      But especially the summit block:  Anyone that wants to hit multipitch and be greatly rewarded should do this climb. You will regret not doing it. It is more fun than you think.
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Aug 16, 2013 03:54
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modig posted:I clicked through for more beta, but all I got was some fool fishing. Protip: Stick to the set labeled "Mount Royal."
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Aug 16, 2013 18:55
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guppy posted:I am introducing friends to the hobby, with some success. A lot of them are fit and take to it no problem, but I have one friend who -- although she has been very gung-ho -- is having a lot of trouble getting going because she's out of shape. She isn't even doing routes right now, just using whatever handholds are handy, and still can't reliably get up the wall, and generally only manages 1-2 attempts per evening. Just be supportive. That's all you can really do, honestly. If they get discouraged, try to be supportive. Don't start with gastons or stepthroughs or any of that poo poo. Just encourage them to give it another go. If they're cashed out, hang out with them and stretch or grab some beers or something. In general, it seems like people who are serious about it will figure out that a lot of the game is mental and working through it is part of the process.
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Aug 18, 2013 03:53
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Today I set some routes, and managed to have an extendable ladder de-extend itself onto my hand, chipping off part of my thumbnail and ripping a huge chunk of skin off my middle finger. Then my manager decided to throw a bolt into a bucket, just as I was reaching into said bucket. Needless to say, I'm out of commission for a little while. Also halfway through putting up a route the head setter took the ascender I needed. No problem dude, I'll just do one arm pull ups on the rope, dunno why I bother with that thing anyway. The good thing about setting here is it's just two dudes, one ascender for setting rope, and enough area to ensure the other has plenty of time to work bouldering problems. Still a small as hell area though. A good place to cut your teeth on setting though.
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Aug 21, 2013 13:58
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modig posted:I've done some tricep stuff on and off, and its never been clear if it was helping or not. I might start trying again. Never really did dips. Skullcrushers are better and less likely to exacerbate internal rotation.
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Aug 24, 2013 02:43
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spwrozek posted:Any Colorado folks want to get out this weekend? Might be game for Saturday afternoonish. Maybe. Depends on if my bike ride gets canceled.
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Aug 24, 2013 07:15
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Basically all of the basics for knots, belay commands/response, hardware terminology, climbing terminology, and then a safety checklist of some kind. Maybe research out of class on different areas globally for climbing, the features and type of rock, or the different styles of climbing? Maybe a history of some of the more iconic places to climb? El Capitan was (re?)released and the restored movie is beautiful. Not necessarily a must-see, but definitely a great climbing movie. Artsy, at times (in a not-so-great way) but the time it was accomplished and the cinematography given the limited equipment was amazing.
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Sep 10, 2013 04:28
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modig posted:You know, I've heard this about slab falls, but all my actual slab falls have been totally chill. I've never taken a bit slab leader fall, but like a 6-8 foot fall has been fine. Has anybody actually seen the dreaded cheese grater fall? Nope. Even when I've hit 5.12a or .11b/c slab, falls aren't a big deal since you instinctively push out with your hands. I've taken a 10 foot leader fall before with no real ill effect, other than a little roughing on the palms and a knee.
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Oct 7, 2013 00:46
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VagueRant posted:I'm doing some indoor climbing tomorrow and it's been a while, so I had a couple of questions. I remember my double figure of eight knots and belaying safety stuff. I pull at least one arm's length of rope and tie the knot off there. I keep the knot tied through both loops (that secure the belay loop to my harness) tight enough that I can't shove a fist through the rope loop I'm being belayed on. As for the tag end of the rope, I keep enough that when I use a Yosemite finish, I have at least 5-6 inches of tag end left. To each their own. Some people say to never use the Yosemite finish and tie a fisherman off the tag end. Up to you/your gym.
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Oct 8, 2013 13:43
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Any of the Boulder goons that actually climb rocks have plans this fall? Probably going to be looking at a trip to Empire/Ra if it's clear this fall. Probably got room for another set or a middle. Also, going to be forced to choose a gym for the winter. Sucks that all the Boulder gyms raised rates or are losing all of the good staff. Last thing I want is a gym rep watching some reckless rear end in a top hat climb dangerously, dyno into some other climber, then play it off as "that thing that guy does."
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Oct 9, 2013 22:25
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modig posted:I'm thinking Penitente Canyon over Veteran's Day weekend. I just bought a new guide book for bouldering in the front range, so probably some more exploring of bouldering areas. I've been happy with Movement. I like Movement for the roped climbing, but there isn't much for bouldering. My winter schedule doesn't overlap with anyone I know, so no belayer. And Movement got rid of the autobelays. Bouldering this winter sounds like a good idea. After the flood, there should be a lot of new exposed stuff along the flatirons. Too bad the canyon won't be open anytime soon.
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Oct 10, 2013 13:28
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Speleothing posted:RE: climbing in Denver - I'm down to gym climb Tuesday or Wednesday nights. My work gets me into the Spot in Boulder and Rock'n & Jam'n in Thornton for free. Tuesdays I could do. Is the new gym the EarthTreks?
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Oct 10, 2013 19:46
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Cybor Tap posted:Forgot to update! I got back from the Red. It was AMAZING. I climbed in Muir a bit, and the PMRP. Led Breakfast Burrito at Drive By. That was heady as poo poo. Drive by is incredible. We didn't do quite as much climbing as I would have liked, but I got 3 good days in. It's possible. Just be sure to pick and choose. I know people who have gotten by on less. I know people who have gotten by on less in Boulder (including me). If you need a place to crash just give a call. I don't know if you still have my number, by you can PM me here.
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Nov 3, 2013 07:24
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Could be tendonitis, could be a minor tear. Hard to say. Go to a doctor or PT.
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Nov 12, 2013 16:06
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Any boulder goons climbing indoors tonight? I was thinking of hitting The Spot later tonight for a business casual session and then try my hand at the beastmaker app.
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Jan 23, 2014 16:57
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Finally managed my first 5.12 on lead. Indoors, but this felt much much harder than anything I'd ever done outside, so I'll buy it. Absolutely wiped after the effort.
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Feb 1, 2014 06:47
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Chris! posted:Me too, I thought I had adequately warmed up but it was extra cold on Sunday and I have hurt my shoulder Holy poo poo grinding is usually a terrible indicator. 
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Feb 18, 2014 16:20
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Are those a new line of evolvs? They look pretty sexy. I will go out on a limb and say that if a beginning climber wants to start hand exercises, there's nothing wrong with doing so as long as you're "doing the right thing." There's some terrible idea going around that you need to pinch or grip harder and while I can see the as an issue later on, say at V4, I doubt anyone is falling off a VB because of pinch strength. On the other hand, I would definitely recommend very light resistance exercises for opening your hand to work and train your tendons for opening your hand. They're just as important and many injuries can be mitigated if your hand is "well-rounded" instead of being burly in just one lop-sided fashion. I wouldn't recommend going out and starting the beastmaker routine right away, but every climber of every level can benefit from keeping your hand a balanced machine. If you're still climbing and are topping out at V3/4, then go ahead and fire up something like the beastmaker.
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Mar 3, 2014 15:05
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Baldbeard posted:Don't use fingerboards or any other bullshit. I don't know if I'd go so far as to say fingerboards are bullshit. I've gotten a lot of gains out the beastmaker, but I suppose I'm not technically a "beginner." I sometimes think I climb like one though. 
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Mar 3, 2014 18:20
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Manstrocity posted:Well that's Sidney Trinidad at the Bouldering nationals two weeks ago, and she climbs for evolv, so probably. Look like they could be a new Optimus? Guy in the background is what makes that photo though. I feel bad that when people are climbing, I really only notice the shoes first, beta second. I am a giant shoe whore. 
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Mar 3, 2014 19:43
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ConspicuousEvil posted:On a lighter note, I'm going to Joe's in a couple of weeks. Anyone else got some good climbing trips planned?
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Mar 4, 2014 02:20
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PRADA SLUT posted:I have some Metolius hand balm, and while I like it, it doesn't seem to be the cheapest around. Is there anything similar that anyone would recommend that I could throw in my climbing bag and put on after I leave the gym? Bee bar. From Honey House.
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Mar 5, 2014 14:55
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Boston Climbing Goons! I will be making a handful of trips to Billerica for training, and I figured I might as well see about getting my rear end to a gym to climb. It looks like BRG is the closest outlet, unless someone can point me in the right direction. BRG a yes or no?
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Apr 13, 2014 17:35
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dewer posted:Central Rock Gym in watertown isn't that much further than BRG and it's a much nicer gym. How is the bouldering?
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Apr 16, 2014 13:45
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