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Blog Free or Die
Apr 30, 2005

FOR THE MOTHERLAND

Petey posted:

What's the best way to buy new shoes? My climbing buddy told me he just orders anything promising off Zappos and then returns the rest. Anyone else have other ideas, trusted brands, state of the art suggestions, etc?

Does your gym not sell shoes? I got my first few pairs at mine; they were a little more expensive than online (even with 10% member discount), but it's great to be able to try different sizes/models on and then immediately attack some boulder problems with them.

You could even act like they don't fit and then order them online

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Blog Free or Die
Apr 30, 2005

FOR THE MOTHERLAND

Yeah, I like to do that whenever my gym puts up new stuff. Try to send what I can with whatever crazy/stupid beta I can, then check out alternate approaches on subsequent visits. I've noticed I've started climbing a lot better because of this, using a lot more backsteps/hand crosses and clean static moves than I would normally.

Plus it's fun striking up conversation with people on what beta they prefer on weirdass problems that don't seem to have any 'proper' route.

Blog Free or Die
Apr 30, 2005

FOR THE MOTHERLAND

Pander posted:

I went again yesterday and did better. The one odd thing is still on overhangs when I have NO idea where my feet are going, whether the footholds I use are legal or not. I suppose more communication with my belayer is required.

If you see a big overhang coming up, it's useful to take a few seconds when you can and try to figure out your feet ahead of time, like, "Okay, I can start with my feet there, then once I start moving up there's that jug I can move a foot up to."

Or just do so many pullups you can just campus 'til you're above the overhang

Blog Free or Die
Apr 30, 2005

FOR THE MOTHERLAND

RE: Foot holds, drop knees, flagging, I've found this guide has some good advice. Other sections are good too.

Blog Free or Die
Apr 30, 2005

FOR THE MOTHERLAND

Kylaer posted:

Ugh. That's what I was worried about. I know muscle pain, I'm well accustomed to that, and this isn't it. I figured it was either the tendons or the tendon sheaths, I just wasn't sure whether it was a sign I was overdoing things or if it was normal and expected. Thank you for the confirmation, even though it isn't what I wanted to hear.

Some advice I wish I'd taken earlier was to crimp as little as possible. It makes using tricky holds a lot easier at first, but seems to lead to finger injuries a lot faster as well. Using an open grip is possible/better 90% of the time; it just takes some getting used to at first. Consider doing some open hand only days, although you'll probably have to climb a few grades lower than usual for a while.

Blog Free or Die
Apr 30, 2005

FOR THE MOTHERLAND

Bouldering is like top rope climbing, except final destination, crux only.

If it feels too hard, just do the easiest stuff there is until you can do it. When you see people climb problems you're working on but can't do, watch how they do it, and ask them for advice.

Keep going a few times a week and you will get strong and send hard.

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Blog Free or Die
Apr 30, 2005

FOR THE MOTHERLAND

I like Moccasyms as well, but be aware when fitting that they'll stretch a whole bunch.

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