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Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

So now is where I'll throw in a mention of Self-Coached Climber, the best book that I've seen for climbing and training. It was recommended in the last version of this thread so I know a few others here stand by it, and I've bought it twice now actually because it was so helpful that I needed a new copy after losing my first.


The diagrams can be hard to follow at times, and some of the stuff really requires that you have a moderate baseline of skill established already so a lot can go over the head of beginners, but for me at least it really opened my eyes to seeing movement in a new way. It's a great tool for stressing how important balance and technique are and how they apply to our war on gravity. I think I can attest to that because I'm super scrawny but still manage to climb well. The first few chapters cover movement with a bunch of great exercises and drills that can really help you improve, then it goes on with topics like physiology and training to target specific areas of improvement. If climbing had a textbook, this would be it. If you're a nerd like me then you can take something from it and apply it to the rock with decent results.

There's no substitute for practice and I'd say that it's easiest if you have somebody demonstrating techniques in-person but this is a great addition to that. Things like the traversing drills can really help out and if you spend like 20 minutes doing them as a cooldown after every session then you'll definitely see improvement in footwork and technique.

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Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

Have any REI stores nearby? They've got some stuff to try on at typical retail prices, but their used gear sales have things marked down quite a bit. My buddy got a pair of Evolv Defys for $10 but it's real hit or miss what you can find.

Teeter fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Dec 23, 2012

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

Tropomyosin posted:

Heck yeah it does! And if people ever say, "Wait, aerial gymnastics? What's that?" You just get to say, "Oh, you know that stuff they do in Cirque du Soleil? Yeah, that's what I do." And then strike a rock and roll pose and everyone in the room starts applauding. Hope you enjoy it!

On topic of this thread, what are peoples' feelings about use of bolt holes during gym climbing? I know there's the risk of breaking off a finger if you fall, but is it actually considered a feature if you can pull it off?

Aerial gymnastics seems pretty awesome. I like slacklining, which is great for balance, but wouldn't even know where to start with some crazy Cirque du Soleil stuff. I also ice skate, which is an odd form of cross-training but it's great for legs! I've strange combination of hobbies for being a dude in LA.

I personally don't bother with bolt holes, especially since the last thing I want to do when I'm training is hurt myself. Kinda like open hand vs crimping, if it's a real send attempt then do whatever it takes but for the sake of training it's best to take it easy. Hell, I barely even touch pockets in the gym because it's just not worth it. As for an "official" stance on it, a competition I was at had it in the rules that bolt holes could be used as footholds but not for hands so maybe that's a good way to look at it.

e: Big shoes, little shoes

Teeter fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Dec 24, 2012

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

modig posted:

I hit up Hangar 18 in Upland, which is in LA somewhere. It's not as nice a Movement, but it was a fine gym. The routes were harder for the same grade, though I'm not fully sure why. There were more routes that had reachy enough moves that my wife needed intermediate foot holds that weren't there. The holds are older and more worn out (smooth), and they often paint them to make enough holds of the same color to set a route without tape. Painting them seems like a bad idea to me. I managed to send a V4 that was pretty sweet, with more work and more dynamic moves than a V6 normally takes me at Movement. I'll go back for another day of vacation workout.

This is my spot so it's cool to see someone else post about it. Hangar 18 started in Upland and it's pretty homely to me but it's local and I love it. They've been successful enough to expand to a few other locations, with Riverside being the most notable to me. They've learned a lot throughout the years so Riverside was built from the ground up a few years ago to be a great climbing experience. It makes Upland look ghetto in comparison and I'd recommend checking it out if you're nearby. Upland has high quality climbs but the facility as a whole is lacking compared to others, which is fine for me because my membership applies to all gyms so I can climb daily at Upland but make the trek to Riverside occasionally went I want to spend a whole afternoon climbing with friends.


As for painting holds, I've mentioned it here and people think it's crazy because every other gym uses tape but I just can't see it that way. I have in no way noticed any detrimental effect at all that it could have on the holds, it simply makes the wall look much more organized in seeing how a route takes shape. They benefit because the gym owner also runs Climb-It Holds so there's a wide variety of shapes/colors at their disposal, but a bit of color-coding after the fact works out nicely.

e: found an awesome video tour!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0HXJTtgDsg

e2: I'm looking to go to grad school and Boulder is one of my top choices so hopefully I'll get a chance to check out Movement with some of you CO goons!

Teeter fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Dec 24, 2012

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

A buddy of mine competed on Sharma's team. It blows my mind how good this guy is yet he manages to remain pretty low-key and treat the whole thing so nonchalantly.

I'd love to check the place out but I'll have to spring for a day pass some day when I feel like spending the money. That monthly price is absurd to me but maybe it has some nice perks, who knows.

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

Papercut posted:

LA must be cheap as poo poo if $75 per month for a gym membership is absurd. Brooklyn Boulders is $100/mo, Mission Cliffs is $71/mo, Planet Granite is $73/mo, Portland Rock Gym is $63/mo and doesn't even include yoga without an annual membership (plus their yoga schedule is garbage), The Circuit is just a bouldering gym and is $59/mo, etc.

I've seen these prices thrown up in discussion here before and it's made me wonder why things are so cheap given how expensive the cost of living can be. It should at least be comparable with the Bay Area but hey, I'm not complaining.

I just chose the word absurd because I pay $28/mo at Hangar 18, and that gets me in to any of their FIVE gyms. There's only two of them that I'm close enough to visit regularly but it's awesome nonetheless to have a constantly fresh problems to work on. Threshhold in Riverside is $35-50/mo depending on options, and Rockreation is $50/mo or so. I suppose I'm spoiled overall but that $75 is a lot to me compared to the alternatives here so I don't know what the draw will be aside from a new facility and the Sharma name.

Teeter fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jun 17, 2013

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

Ranma posted:

Those are spandex shorts from SA's very own Queen Elizatits and her Etsy shop, Sexism Is Over. The boulder is "The Fun Boulder", and it is!

drat, if there's anything my friends and I enjoy as much as climbing trips it's acting afool and looking the part. I've seen her thread before but I can't believe I've never put 2 and 2 together. Looks like I'll have a sweet new climbing uniform in a short while...

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

dr.gigolo posted:

Any advice for going up inclines? I am able to do V3s and 11.bs on mostly flat walls. So far I've been practicing at just incline climbs a few grades down, but I'm definitely lacking in efficiency and get burnt out too quick.

It's all in the footwork. Keep your arms as straight as possible and master the use of turning, flagging, pivoting, and drop knees. I'd also recommend going down a few levels and practicing on really overhung V1s. They tend to have big jug holds to hang on to so it's easy to repeat them until you can do them as efficiently as possible and barely use any energy. I've done that at the start of every day in the gym and it's done wonders for helping me.




Unrelated, but a buddy of mine built an extremely badass climbing wall in his pool. It's 12' from top to pads but has 16' of climbable space with an overhung steel frame.





Check out the story and build process here

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

ante posted:

That would be more fun if it were filled with water instead of mats.

Hahahaha he got so annoyed with the first response from everyone being about water since it's in a pool. Even I thought that at first since I immediately asked him about free water soloing possibilities before it was built.

I guess the real reason is that the pool was basically derelict and going to be filled in prior to this idea coming up. Keeping any significant amount of water in there just isn't an option without pumps and all that.

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

We don't really get much rain here but I imagine it's something that's been planned for since they must have dealt with rainwater in the past with the pool just sitting there and all. Some sort of external pump would probably work for the few times it does rain but really I don't think the deep water soloing was feasible whatsoever from the sounds of it. Fixing the pool would be a monumental investment upfront, let alone the cost of maintenance from there. The rig itself is weatherproofed pretty thoroughly but we're in a spot of SoCal where the climbing season never really ends so upkeep shouldn't be too bad as the year goes on.

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

Tramway is awesome. The $50 Summer pass this year was an awesome deal up until the mountain decided to burn and get the area shut down early.

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

Papercut posted:

This is still usually an example of a footwork problem. I see beginners all the time on starts like this with their hips square to the wall, locked off with hands and feet directly in front of them. Usually they should be in something closer to a ninja pose (one leg bent under your body with a straight leg braced way out to the side).

Here's a visual guide to what Papercut described, provided by The Self Coached Climber (a fantastic book if you're good at learning this way):






Keeping your body balanced and your center of gravity in the right position is crucial for things like crimps and slopers. It allows you to use gravity against the rock, providing tension without needing to use any muscle.

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

re: footholds as hands

H's referring to the specific type of hold, i.e. little foot jibs, which are sometimes used by setters in a route to simulate a lovely crimp or whatever. These routes generally aren't anywhere near as fun as an equally difficult problem that instead earns its rating by rewarding good technique. All of my favorite climbs have been ones that utilize creative body positioning or have some quality to them beyond "make the holds shittier or further apart so it's harder."

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

Save me jeebus posted:

The women's ones are bright pink and are ugly as sin, IMO. It was a [poor] joke.

But half the fun of climbing trips is being able to look as dumb as possible!

I really want some of these:

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Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

I realized that I lost a pair of shoes that I have never actually climbed in. It all works out though, because the pair I currently use was given to me by a friend for free.

In other news, I got on a wall for the first time in at least a year or two. Life got hectic with a new job, a new city, and everything else going on, but now I'm super close to the brand new Hollywood Boulders gym and got to check out a preview night the other day. Feels good to be back.

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