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matryx
Jul 22, 2005

I think I just had an evilgasm...
I'm at the biscuit factory 2-3 times a week [Bermondsey Tube Station is the closest tube btw] and would recommend it as much if not more than my previous favourite at Mile End Climbing Wall. I used to live closer to there so it was more convenient, and the walls are higher, though the setting tends to be more brute-force at ME over the biscuit.
I climb Tues/Thurs after work and often first thing on sunday morning so give a holler if you see me (Male, 6'2ish, usually long bright purple hair) as I'll always climb with anyone. Though right now I'm wussing out of basically everything as I don't want to risk injury before I get married next month.

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matryx
Jul 22, 2005

I think I just had an evilgasm...

azreal posted:

So went to the indoor gym today and hit the bouldering area pretty hard...tore up my hands pretty good. Is this normal, and what's the best way to treat it?



If you're new to bouldering then yes this is somewhat normal. You may be gripping too hard and causing blisters which are then ripping, so you could practice being alittle more relaxed with your hand work.
Best way to treat it though is to keep climbing (though stop if you end up bleeding until healed and stuff).
This was said just above, but please never ever wear rings while climbing. I'm hoping they're just back on for this photo but if they are not I'll just suggest you never research "de-gloving" and hope that just the name of the injury will be enough to gut-wrenchingly inspire you to always take off your rings. Even if just bouldering you can totally get a ring snagged on something. This is not just for your benefit. I wouldn't wish just witnessing that on anyone let alone experiencing it.

matryx
Jul 22, 2005

I think I just had an evilgasm...
I love it when that happens. Being a tall and lanky git and continually staticing bits designed for dynoing I inspired a couple of akward angle dynos (including backwards) to specifically stop stetch bastard from just reaching over and avoiding the problem.

matryx
Jul 22, 2005

I think I just had an evilgasm...

gamera009 posted:

Personally, I try to set a mix of problems so "lanky tall people" aren't always simply reaching and "winning." We have a reasonably tight cave-ish area and I set fairly compressed, tight balance problems that all the shorter people love, but the tall people hate. But I also always set a few that require strong reach and lock-offs.

I try to avoid setting dynos as the area is a little small for anything crazy. They can be fun, but I'd hate to think that I can't get around a tall person's reach without resorting to awkward dynos.

This is v good and I appreciate the extra effort.
My favourite route I've attempted so far was a sideways traverse with really really low down sections. I had to crab that for sections and use terrible technique heelhooking other bits just to keep my legs up off the floor. Even started it with a fig-4 (which is my only legit use of one ever to date).

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