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I've recently gotten back into climbing after a 6 year hiatus. I have some Evos that have a good amount of rubber left on them from 2007, but they feel awfully slippery even after taking steel wool to them. Is there any hope or does the rubber compound just age beyond salvage? It's not just the highly polished knobs I'm slipping off. Practically everything. I literally can't trust my feet at all on anything but large shelves/jugs when I climb. While it's great for getting my arms back into the swing of things, I'm finding it hard to advance. I was climbing at the V4 level before and now I'm happy just to send a V2... Thoughts? I'm probably going to get some Miuras. Edit: I'm retarded and meant to say Evolv Defys. Dunno where Evo came from. canvasbagfight fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Mar 7, 2013 |
# ¿ Mar 7, 2013 06:51 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 10:33 |
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modig posted:I saw someone recently climbing while holding a fist sized ball in each hand. That's a drill put forward in Self Coached Climber for ingraining good feet movement and showing how much upward progress you can make without pulling with your arms at all.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2013 05:06 |
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I use an emory board to file down the skin before it starts ripping and flapping. I aslo use a lot of lotion/climb on bar and basically try to keep my hands as 'normal' as posible. I have also tried a vinegar/salt hot water soak and found that to be effective especially with a pumice stone or something. Tape is always good if you keep ripping at a certain bit of hand and it's only a matter of time until it flaps away. Getting sloppy on big positive plastic holds is usually what rips my hands up the most
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2013 15:49 |
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Climbing my weakness of severe overhangs via 4x4 routine and resting on the wall has been amazing. As I'm getting more into outdoors climbing, I'm looking into getting some decent approach shoes. I think I'm down to between the 5.10 Guide Tennies and La Sportiva Xplorers. Yes, I realize I probably don't need them. I still want them. Any thoughts? Am I missing a good alternative? I'd love some Gandas but I'm just looking to get my feet wet, here. Castle Rock was fine, but Pinnacles had a lot of hiking both to and down from routes with a lot of sketchy terrain for my sneakers.
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2013 09:02 |
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The guide tennies I ended up picking up are fantastic. As long as the footwork is not too thin or horizontal, I can easily climb 5.10- in them. Wish they had more ankle stability for the actual approach, but they climb remarkably well.
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2013 10:55 |
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I think it's really just about climbing until those techniques you mention become second nature and you apply them/try to apply them in situations without even thinking. Then you can focus on other stuff like the next hold, or breathing regularly, etc. That's what it was for me and inside flagging.
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2013 17:06 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 10:33 |
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Reformed Tomboy posted:Actually, this came up at work today. Soft opening (what ever the hell that means) June 1st, grand opening June 15th.
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# ¿ May 3, 2013 08:24 |