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Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum
Hey all, newbie climber question here.

I've recently gotten into climbing a lot, mainly indoor bouldering at the moment. I'm looking to get my first pair of shoes rather than renting ill fitting smelly ones from the gym. I went and tried on a few pairs from different brands like Scarpa, Red Chilli, Evolv etc but I seemed to have a similar issue with all of them. That issue being they were all pretty uncomfortable and constricting at the toe end, but had a lot of excess space at the heel end. I tried on models that were marketed more towards comfort with flatter soles but they all seemed to have that issue.

Is this something that will change as I wear the shoes in, or am I missing something about the sizing of climbing shoes?

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Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

Falkaugaa posted:

The lasts vary between manufacturers and even individual models, so your best bet is just to try on a ton of different shoes. I didn't find a heel that felt solid until I got La Sportiva pythons, 4 (EU) sizes smaller than my street shoes.

Yeah I suppose I just need to try on a lot more. Comfort really is my main priority to be honest, I'd rather have a nice fitting pair of shoes to start with and be slightly less good at climbing than have crazy uncomfortable shoes that actively discourage me from putting them on.

chami posted:

What Falkaugaa said, plus uncomfortable toeboxes may or may not break in depending on the material of the shoe and the last, but dead space in the heel will always be a problem. What style of shoes were you looking at (aggressively cambered or symmetrical, downturned or flat-lasted) and have you measured your feet? Do you have wide feet or Morton's Toe?

I was looking at less aggressive ones with a more natural shape and fit. My feet are size 11 (UK) and are fairly wide. I'll try and find someone in store who can point me in the right direction probably.

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

crazycello posted:

The old Scarpa vapour V's were great for my wide size 11 feet. They've now moved onto a new model that may not be as comfy, but it could be up your alley.

Thanks for the heads up, I checked some out today but they were a little out of my price range. Picked up some Boreal Jokers though and they're great. Really snug fit which feels tight but not uncomfortable, and there's almost no excess space in the heel. Can't wait to try them out!

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