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Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Someone recommend me some new shoes. My first and current pair of shoes, Evolv Defy's are stretching out a bit too much and I keep slipping on holds with them. I do bouldering and top roping but mostly bouldering. I would say about 75% of the gym is overhang and the rest is vertical. I climb mostly V3's at the moment. Would something like the La Sportiva Solutions be too aggressive/advanced for me? I don't want to spend $150 on shoes and have them be destroyed in a month due to my sloppy footwork.

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Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Megabound posted:

I bought a pair of Solutions 3 weeks ago, I've been climbing for a little over a year and my previous pair were 5.10 Pink Anasazi that were very loosely fit.

After a very painful break-in I'm in love with them. The shape of the shoe itself demands good foot technique, and punishes sloppy positioning quickly. You'll also be in so much discomfort for the first couple weeks that you'll have no choice but to do very light footwork.

I thoroughly recommend at least trying a pair on, I don't think there's a graduating point that you need to wait for to get into technical shoes.

How much did you downsize? I wear an 41/42 street shoe and could only fit into a 40.5 without extreme pain. I tried the Miura VS and the 40.5 in that was even worse. I have somewhat wide feet but not super wide or anything.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Ended up getting a pair of boostics. They fit so much better than any of the la sportiva shoes I tried. Does anyone know if the boostics will stretch? I'm not sure if I should size down a bit more with them.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Can anyone recommend me a good indoor bouldering shoe with a wide toe box? I've have the 5.10 Anasazi VCS for a few months now and they're causing me a ton of toe pain. I think they may be a bit too narrow. I mostly want to just get something that fits my foot better but I also want something more down turned.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Thanks for the recommendations guys! I ordered a few pairs of the Otakis, Butoras, and Instincts. Hopefully one will work out.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





The instincts fit like a dream. Thanks for recommending them.

Since I'm doing pretty much just gym bouldering and gym lead climbing, should I look into the VSR or would you guys still recommend the VS?

Also, how much do the VS break in? They feel a bit tight in my left foot and I'm not sure if I should bother sizing up or not. I went with half a size below street size.

Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jan 23, 2019

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





ShaneB posted:

Do you have a wide toebox or just wide foot in general?

Wide toes narrow heel. Kind of like a duck but with a high arch. They seem to fit well but my toes are about as curled up as they can be. They're pretty painful to stand completely on my toes. I'm not sure if they will stretch at all considering there is so much rubber on the upper. If they stretched just a few mm I think they would be fine. Would you suggest sizing up half a size?

Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jan 23, 2019

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





So I just got back into climbing about a month ago after a 2-year hiatus. After making some attempts at a very crimpy v4 yesterday, I started getting some pain on the top of my forearm. If my hand is flat on the table its like 4 inches down from my wrist, on the top of my forearm. It kind of felt like my bones were hurting but I'm guessing it's just me overusing my tendons. After it started to hurt I took a break for a few minutes and did some light top roping where the pain came back.

Has anyone experienced this before? Any advice on exercises I can do to help speed up recovery or prevent this in the future?

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





It only hurt when pulling up hard with my right arm on really small crimpy holds. It felt fine with jugs and anything like that. It just happened last night but my arm feels fine now. I figure I'll just take a break over the weekend and pray that it goes away. I just wanted to see if this was a common issue or something I can correct with a workout like golfer's elbow or something like that.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





That sounds exactly like what I'm feeling. Thanks a ton! I'll try that exercise out.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





By trigger point do you mean the area that hurts?

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





So I've been back climbing again for about 2 months now. I was going about every other day for around 3 weeks. Now that I'm back up to V4s I'm starting to get some mild to moderate finger pain when I stop climbing. How concerned should I be? Should I just cut back to 3 days a week or should I consider taking some time off?

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





ShaneB posted:

Any core programs for climbers anyone can suggest? I mean I know i can find something pretty easily out there, just looking for anything anyone can vouch for. My lack of core strength is not helping me.

On a similar note, I'd really like a full workout program that compliments regular climbing. I've found a lot of stuff but some of the core exercises like front levers are way too hard for a relatively unfit person like myself.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





So my friend and I have a lot of experience top roping and lead climbing in the gym but we've never done outdoor climbing. We looked up some beginner outdoor climbs in our area and found some top rope spots.

Is it a terrible idea for us to go and top rope outdoors with only gym experience? I looked up instructions on how to tie into an anchor. It seems pretty simple. Mostly just posting here as a sanity check before I go and get us killed by missing something stupid.

I was planning on using this technique that I found assuming the anchor at the top is similar. https://www.climbing.com/skills/bolted-toprope-anchors/
I would of course practice tying the knot at home or at the gym. I have no experience repelling, so I would hike back down around to the beginning of the climb after setting up the rope.

Please tell me if I'm being dumb.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Thanks for the feedback anyone. I think I'll definitely find someone more experienced to tag along.

If anyone here lives in Philly and wants to climb shoot me a PM!

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





I wanted to say thank you to whoever recommended the Scarpa Instincts for my wide rear end duck feet. They're the most comfortable shoe I've ever worn and fit my feet perfectly.

I also wanted to note that in just two weeks the theraband flex bar fixed my crippling tennis elbow. Can't recommend it enough.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





M. Night Skymall posted:

What color did you get?

Get the green. The red is way too easy. I started doing the tyler twist exercise, 3 sets of 15, 30 second rest between sets, once per day. During the second week I upped it to twice a day, once in the morning, and once after I got home from work.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Sab669 posted:

Like in general? No. But after 2 hours of wearing those shoes yesterday, yea, the arches are still kind of sore today.

My normal shoes are a size 10 mens, so I tried a 10 on Saturday and they were decent. A bit of extra room for the toes so that's why I decided to try a 9 yesterday. I think for the basic stuff I'm climbing I'll be fine wearing 10's so I'm probably just going to do that until my gym gets their merch in and then I'll try/buy a 9.5 and see how that is.

It's pretty normal for your climbing shoes to be uncomfortable after wearing them for 30 minutes straight let alone 2 hours. If you're new to climbing your feet are probably just weak. I would give it a few weeks as the pain will probably go away.


prom candy posted:

Any idea if this thing is good for golfers/climbers elbow (inside elbow pain instead of outside pain)

It is. My friend had it pretty bad and it also cured his inside elbow pain. You want to do this exercise: http://www.thera-bandacademy.com/tba-exercise/FlexBar-Reverse-Twist-for-Golfers-Elbow

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Macnult posted:

I got into rock climbing the other week and I'm having a lot of fun with it. Unfortunately I had a little too much fun yesterday and my golfer's elbow flared up, leaving me in massive pain for roughly an hour after climbing. It feels better now, and currently I'm looking at buying a TheraBand FlexBar to use while I rest up and try again next weekend. I was wondering: which level of resistance should I buy? I never had golfer's elbow issues until I started climbing and it hasn't affected my range of motion, I'm just hoping to strengthen that area and not gently caress myself up.

Get the green for sure. Red is definitely too easy unless you're recovering from something serious.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Baronash posted:

Is there any chance the setter is trying to force a figure 4?

e:
Basically this, you wrap your leg over one arm and use that positioning to reach higher while staying static. It's mostly an ice climbing move, but it can occasionally be useful on overhung routes where you're moving off of a bomber hold.

Seems extremely unlikely if it is a v2.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Macnult posted:

Update: Ordered the green which came in last week. Used it daily and then gave climbing another try on Friday. It works! I had some elbow pain but nowhere near as bad as the week prior. I went climbing yesterday as well with some pain, but itís getting better. Managed to get half way up a 5.11 until my arms gave out.


Iím happy with the progress Iíve been making. Bouldering Iím almost consistent with all V3s and top rope I can do 5.10s without issue. At this point Iím mostly excited by the idea of climbing without golferís elbow trouble

Just some advice, don't be an idiot like me and stop using it when the symptoms go away. They will come back if you don't keep strengthening those muscles for awhile. I stopped after 2 weeks thinking I'd be good and now I'm having issues again and have to start the process all over :smith:

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Mons Hubris posted:

The tennis elbow exercise with the flexbar thing is fine for me, but I feel like I canít do the golferís elbow one right (with your off-elbow way up in the air). The end Iím gripping turns in my hand and rubs the poo poo out of my palm, and then I donít have my wrist at a great angle to actually stretch my elbow out. I watched some videos, idk what is going on there.

This is what you should be doing for golfer's elbow: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9P-QOaCoDWY

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





So I feel like I've been plateauing for a month or so now at V4 5.11b. Am I at the point where I'm going to have to do climbing specific workouts to progress more or can I still see good progression just from climbing 3x a week but at a slower rate?

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





I've been climbing outside almost every weekend for the past month or so. Here are some photos I took of my friends at Safe Harbor and Birdsboro. Both in eastern PA.


I'd much rather fall on slab like this than any of these vertical or nearly overhanging faces with tons of jagged rocks!






Safeharbor was a blast but the rock got so loving hot after around 2PM that it was nearly unclimbable.

Birdsboro is fun too but extremely chossy and it really freaks me out seeing holds literally glued back onto rock.

Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Jun 12, 2019

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





How do you guys fit workouts into your schedule? I can't really figure it out. Currently I climb and then do my workouts after climbing, but I'm often too exhausted to push myself hard or get a real solid workout in. If I workout on my off-days I'm normally too sore to climb the next day.

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Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





So I've been climbing for around 6 years and I've plateaued at around v5-v6. I've decided to start hang board training. I've easily managed to find info on the workouts themselves but I can't find any info on when to actually do them.

Should I be hang boarding on my rest days or on my climbing days?

Currently my schedule is climbing M/W/F, antagonist training T/Th, and rest days on Sat/Sun.

I'm not quite sure where I can fit it in.

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