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You're right: Not having taped holds will instantly cause your onsight grade to drop, until you adjust. How much depends on the area. Some places get lots of traffic and the best holds are chalked up. Usually the lovely holds are chalked up too, so have fun with that. Other places don't hold chalk as well, to the point where onsighting can be extremely hard relative to the physical difficulty. As for jugs, yes there are huge jugs in nature. You'll be glad too, because pitches outdoors are going to be pushing around 80 feet tall, which is twice as tall as your average gym route.
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Jan 31, 2013 00:41
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 23:59 |
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:My problem now is that my cuticles explode from the pressure of full crimps Are you climbing in cold and dry air? This was happening to me until I started using a beeswax balm (Carmex or Climb-On or Joshua Tree) on my cuticles after climbing and before bed. Now I have cuticles like a hand model!
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Mar 23, 2013 00:44
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It's normal if you haven't climbed in a while. Climb more.
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Jul 19, 2013 03:47
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Whenever I grab a "full hand" jug, I always bounce it a couple times for a optimal re-grip. Watch other climbers and you'll see them doing this too. It helps relieve any pressure points (skin folding in a weird direction) you might have caused by gripping something quickly/poorly, so it probably helps reduce flappers. Also, it should be obvious, but lots of dynamic swinging moves can destroy your skin pretty fast and should be avoided when you don't have the calluses for it.
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Aug 23, 2013 18:24
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Now in video form: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sk2Eq7lFYlQ
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Mar 7, 2014 20:23
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French Canadian posted:Side note, I sent Acid Wash V7 in Bishop this weekend! The rightward high start, or are you triple-downgrading the full leftward line. Both answers seem plausible 
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Apr 2, 2014 04:01
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inferis posted:If I've never done any kind of rock climbing before do I need to take a class or can I just give it a shot and figure it out. One of my local bouldering gyms has really cheap rates for first timers and it seems fun. Usually, only gyms that involve roped climbing will require you to pass a belay test, or take an introductory class. If it's a bouldering-only gym, walk in and tell them it's your first visit and they'll have you sign a release form, give you a tour, and hopefully explain the very basics like "don't walk under other climbers". If they don't cover it, it will be worthwhile to ask how their difficulty grading works, and how you're officially expected to start and finish a route. If anything is unclear, just ask another climber or folks at the desk. Expect to rent climbing shoes for your first visit. Some places don't allow street shoes, and "you're gonna have a bad time" in street shoes anyway.
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Apr 13, 2014 06:06
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There's no real rules here. Only you can know if you're overdoing it, and you might not realize it until something pops. Go for it if you think you can be reasonable about it. My worthless internet stranger advice is that you're on a good trajectory, and you should just keep trying hard routes at the gym, and perhaps add some hangboard sets (at the gym) if the routes aren't giving you the finger workout you want. This also saves you from having to buy and put one up at home, where you'll be tempted to use it too often, and only doing it at the gym helps ensure you're getting plenty of recovery time.
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Dec 9, 2014 19:55
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Never too early to learn that grades are dumb and totally meaningless.
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Nov 3, 2017 00:27
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Seconding that those look pretty drat good. If I need a little more sticky, I'll scrub my edges with a nylon brush. The old wisdom claims it removes a layer of hard oxidized rubber, making the surface softer and stickier. I have no idea if that's true, but if all I need is a placebo to stick to a small foothold, I'll use it.
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Nov 3, 2017 09:08
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Hot tip: the Prana Brion pants are the same as the Zions, but don't have the silly thigh cargo pocket, and are thinner through the legs. If you're a skinny climber they will fit you better if you find the right size. If you're not a skinny climber, don't waste your money on expensive pants.
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Dec 5, 2017 05:43
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 23:59 |
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Be paranoid, but not in the gear. Generally the gear isn't the issue when rappelling, it's that people make mistakes because they're exhausted and dehydrated and rushed due to darkness.
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Aug 12, 2018 23:17
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