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OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


I'm starting to think about upgrading my old TV, a 720p LCD Vizio that I got in 2007. It's served me well, so I'm inclined to stay with Vizio.

Can anyone speak to the differences between the M401i-A3 and the E420i-A0? Both of those are in the $500 price range I set for myself, but the strange thing is that the larger of the two is actually about 50 bucks cheaper.

I'm leaning towards the M401i-A3, just because I like the aesthetics of the TV much more. It's much sleeker looking, and seems to have a thinner bezel, which I love. Although I haven't seen either TV in person yet.

I did read one review that said that even though this TV is advertised as a 120Hz tv, it's actually a 60Hz panel that does tricks to achieve a 120Hz effect? That really sets off warning signs for me, as the only reason I want a 120Hz panel is for smoother playback of 24fps Blu-Ray material. I hate all the tru-motion smoothing effects on most TV's, and would turn them all off on whatever TV I got.

I'm open to other suggestions as well. My main criteria is for picture quality. I don't care about 3D or Smart TV features. I just want a good picture quality with 120hz refresh rate, on a nice looking TV with a thin bezel, and ideally a wide viewing angle, since my TV sits slightly higher than where it ideally would be. Thanks!

OldSenileGuy fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Jan 7, 2014

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OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Personperson14 posted:

I have a 40 inch in the M line and the picture is great, I believe it's better then the E ones from what I've read, and the TV itself is drat sexy. Also the viewing angle on it's great. I can watch it from my chair or my bed and it still looks good.

This is totally the one I'm leaning towards. My only hesitance is that several reviewers have said that the 120Hz on it essentially does nothing, with some of them even saying it's actually a 60Hz panel. But this actually brings me to a larger question:

Can anyone explain or point me to a link that explains exactly how the 120Hz panels remove the 3:2 pulldown of 24fps material? Is there a setting that needs to be turned on that's separate from the setting for Soap Opera Effect? When I try to :google: it, I just get articles explaining the difference between 120/240Hz refresh rate and the Soap Opera Effect, and how one doesn't necessarily cause the other. As I said earlier, I hate the SOE and plan on turning that off on any TV I get. But when removing the 3:2 of 24fps material, how does that work? The movie encoded on the disc is 23.98. Does the player add a 3:2 pulldown to transmit the 1080p/30 signal over HDMI, and then the TV detects the pulldown and removes it, to display true 24? Or does the Blu-Ray player detect that the TV is capable of displaying true 24, and then send a 1080p/24 signal over the HDMI?

My reason for going through all this is to try and determine how often I will actually use the 2:3 removal portion of a 120Hz panel. The majority of content I'll be watching is from an AppleTV (Netflix, HBOGo, iTunes downloads, ripped DVDs, etc), and I assume most of it is from a 24fps source with a pulldown added by the AppleTV to get it to 1080p/30. Will a 120Hz TV benefit from this content, or only from Blu-Rays?

OldSenileGuy fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jan 8, 2014

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


I'll be getting a SmartTV soon for the first time. I have an AppleTV, so I won't be using most of the actual TV apps, but out of curiosity - how does the audio get to the receiver? Do I need to hook up a separate toslink cable from the TV to the receiver, or does the HDMI input of the TV actually send audio in the other direction when using the on-TV apps?

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Petey posted:

I ended up going with the PN51F4500, but sit close enough (within 7") to my TV that I wish I had the 1080p.

Did you end up keeping this tv? Wondering what your thoughts are on it after a week or 2 of use.

I've had my heart set on the new 2014 E-series 42" Vizio, but only because the Panasonic 42" S60 is impossible to get anymore, and there really aren't any other 1080p plasmas in this size range.

My Vizio isn't supposed to arrive until somewhere between the 5th and the 14th of February, so I was considering picking up the Samsung PN43F4500 since it's cheap right now, and then doing a head to head comparison with the Vizio when it arrives, and keeping whichever one I like better. I had initially dismissed this tv for not being 1080p, but everyone raves about the PQ anyway, so I'm thinking about giving it a shot.

EDIT: Does the Samsung have any kind of 24p mode or accept a 24p signal?

OldSenileGuy fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jan 23, 2014

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


My tv started exhibiting some problematic behavior a little over a month ago. It's a 43" Samsung Plasma that's about two years old. Recently I've been noticing whenever there's a stark white or any bright color on screen, there is sometimes a ghost image of it that extends to the right or left. I know that's a terrible description, so I'm including a screenshot.

At first I thought it was burn-in, but it moves with the picture. It's practically impossible to see in any live action footage, but very apparent if I watch anything with bright, simple colors like the AppleTV menu, playing Super Mario Maker, or watching animation like Futurama or South Park.

In the attached picture, you can see how the outline of the white box extends off to the left. Any ideas what this is, and if I can expect it to get worse?

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Slowhanded posted:


e: Looking closer at your problems, it's more than likely a panel issue in this case. Try to ignore it if you're not looking to shop around for a new TV, as it's not worthwhile to repair.

That's the plan. Thanks for the info! I was hoping to get at least another year out of this TV while I wait for prices on the 1080p or 4K OLEDs to drop another level. Sounds like I should be able to do that, as long as this issue doesn't get any more extreme.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


The E6 also is still pretty bad off axis for accurate color. It's just not nearly noticeable as LED tv's which are bad off-axis for contrast/brightness.

I actually wonder if the curve of the C6 does anything to help the off-axis color accuracy, or if it's just as bad as the E6 (which is still better than the EF9500 or whatever last year's model was).

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


So with all these new hot poo poo TV's coming out, when will I be able to get a B6 for 800 or less?

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Made a trip to Costco (PBUC) yesterday, and front and center at the entrance they had the LG B7 55 inch for $1799.

I'm not currently in the market for a new tv even though my current tv is coming up on 5 years old. It took a LOT of willpower to not buy it right then and there. If/when these things drop another couple hundred dollars, they will be impossible to resist.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


If I run an optical cable from a C7 to my receiver, with it send through whatever audio it receives? Or is there some kind of copy protection bullshit that will force it down to a 2.0 signal?

I'm planning on updating to a C7 in the near future, but I don't really see a need to update my receiver just yet. I just want to make sure that if I connect an AppleTV 4k directly to the TV, it will pass through the audio signal to the receiver unaltered. I'm not worried about any kind of Dolby Atmos or Dolby X or anything like that, just regular DD5.1.

I guess I'd also want to make sure the internal apps of the TV can send their audio to the receiver, but as far as I know the only TV app that's not on the AppleTV is YouTube with proper HDR.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001



I saw this when it was in stock earlier, and would have been all over it, except for I don't know if I really trust a refurb from WalMart.

Still encouraging to see them finally start creeping down into this price range.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Ugh, I hate the stand for this yearís version. The C7 is much nicer. Unless I hear something else about how much of an improvement the C8 is over the C7, Iíll probably pick up a C7 once the price gets right.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Ok great now when is the LG B8 coming out :mad:

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


bull3964 posted:


It does seem though that you should avoid the B8 if your budget can step up to the C8 because the Alpha 9 is worth it.

I donít know that thatís necessarily a judgement you can make at this point. Itís true that the B8 doesnít have the Alpha 9 processor like the rest of the lineup, but it DOES have the Alpha 7(?), which I think is still a step up from the B7/C7 line of TVs.

Though to be honest it seems like no one knows much about the B8 at this stage of the game. I just hope it has black frame insertion like the rest of them.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


weaaddar posted:

I'm not sure about on the b6, but for the c7::
Motion eye care off. This seems to really just be a crappy power-saving setting
Use technicolor expert or one of the ISF expert presets and
Real cinema on
Trumotion (User):
De-Judder:0
De-Blur:0

This seems to only be good for 24hz content. For 30/60hz content you probably want to turn trumotion off and leave real cinema on. You may want to just have an identical preset if you watch both movies as well as tv shows on the same input.

Also doing this introduces lots of lag, so def don't do this for gaming.

I wanted to get into this a little more:

I've been watching the LG OLED we have at work a lot to try to discern how much the motion handling is going to bother me, and one of my biggest gripes with the LG OLEDs is that they don't tell you what refresh rate you're currently running at. On my Samsung plasma, hitting the info button tells me if I'm running at 1920x1080/24p, 1920x1080/50p, or 1920x1080/60p depending on what kind of content I'm watching. No such feature on the LG OLEDs. (Side note: Does the Sony A1F/A8F have this?)

Of course, when I'm using my Samsung at home, I'm also using my AppleTV which is set to match the frame rate of the content. When I'm watching the LG, I'm using the internal apps, so I have no idea what frame rate they're running at. I have RealCinema turned on and TrueMotion set to User/DeJudder:0/De-Blur:0 because I've read on AVSForum that even though RealCinema is the setting that allows for 24hz playback, you need to set TrueMotion to those settings to actually get 24Hz playback. But with no on screen display for this, I have no idea if it's actually working. I do know that the motion still looks weird in any fast moving scenes.

I'm very aware that it's possible that the internal apps ARE playing at 24p, and the odd motion I'm seeing is just the way OLEDs handle motion as compared to plasma. This is why I'm adamant about getting one of the OLEDs that includes black frame insertion. (I have no interest in using any motion interpolation to smooth out the motion). I've heard some people say that the flicker introduced by BFI can possibly cause headaches or eye strain or something like that? Is that something to worry about, especially as someone who's been watching a plasma for the past 5 years?

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


I'm unsure - where would I be getting 24fps material in a 60fps input? Only from live TV or any of the live streaming apps? I do have DirecTV Now....now, but I don't plan on keeping it. So that's not really an issue for me.

So if I'm only ever watching material from Netflix, Plex, Hulu, HBOGO, possibly UHD BluRays, etc, then I don't need to worry about the TV doing any reverse telecine, is this correct?

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


If I want to go directly from my AppleTV 4K to the TV, will any old HDMI cable get me full 4K + HDR? Or does it need to be some kind of fancy hdmi cable that supports some newer hdmi spec?

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Do all Dolby Prime theaters have the seats that vibrate? Or was that just at the one I went to (Times Square to see BR2049).

Because the picture and sound was amazing, but the seat vibration poo poo suuuucked

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Don Lapre posted:

You can buy the costco warranty for a tv bought elsewhere




Isn't the Costco warranty just a SquareTrade warranty?

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


I have a LG C8. I love it dearly. But there's one thing I hate about it and I don't know if there's a way to turn it off.

Most of my components are connected to the TV through my receiver. But my AppleTV is connected directly because my receiver isn't a 4k receiver and I'm too cheap/lazy/poor to upgrade it. So the ATV is connected directly to the TV, and the TV outputs audio over optical to the receiver. And it all works fine.

EXCEPT, when I turn on my system with the Harmony, the TV detects the receiver as being "on" before it detects the ATV. And the TV then automatically changes the input to HDMI-2 (the receiver). Is there any way to turn this behavior off? I've heard people suggest it's some kind of CEC thing, but I have that turned off as I don't use it anyway.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


EL BROMANCE posted:

I remember when I bought my OLED, it ended up sitting at my friends house for 3 months because we hadn't moved house yet. I think that might've finished this dude off.

I feel like there's gotta be some kind of middle ground because this is also insane.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Random question:

On the LG C8, if Iím on HDMI 1 using the ISF dark room setting, and I click the ďcopy these settings to all inputsĒ button, does it only copy the ISF dark room settings to all inputs? Or does it copy the settings for every mode to all inputs?

IF it only copies the ISF Dark Room settings (or whatever mode youíre currently on), how can I copy Dolby Vision and HDR settings to other inputs without triggering them on the original input first?

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


BFI seems useless on my C8. All it does is dim the screen. When I turn it on and then go to examples of judder I see absolutely no improvement.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Not sure if this is the right thread but -

Is there any third party solution for programming Logitech Harmony Remotes? I've been using their remotes for over a decade now, and the software to program them has been getting shittier and shittier. And the latest update to the software for my Harmony 655 has taken away 90% of the customization ability, which really sucks.

I've looked around to see if there's any alternative to the Harmony remotes themselves, but they seem to be the only game in town. Sevenhugs smart remote looks nice and sleek, but I'm not crazy about the lack of any physical buttons, and the $200 price tag is pretty steep given that my current remote still works, just annoyingly.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


The software for those fancy remotes with hubs probably does suck, but the new software for my 665 REALLY sucks.

The old software was kinda crappy but got the job done. The new software removes 90% of the ability to customize, I assume to try to push you towards the more expensive remotes.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Taima posted:

Best to just set a B9 deal alert on slickdeals. I'm not aware of any current "good" deals on the B9.

If you want it now, I would say sign up for Greentoe and put in a bid for $1600 or so. Wouldn't be surprised if you get it.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


My receiver crapped out on me tonight. Everything was fine and then all of a sudden I got "AMP ERR" and shutdown and blinking "MCACC" light. It will not power back on, no matter what button combinations I try. The manual says " The receiver may have a serious problem. Do not try switching the receiver on. Unplug the receiver from the wall and call a Pioneer authorized independent service company."

There's a service company not far from me, so I might give them a call tomorrow, but unless they say it's gonna be like 50 bucks or less to fix, I think it's dead. RIP Pioneer VSX-1020. 2010-2020.

So, that being said, anyone have any Receiver recommendations? Wirecutter says to go with the Denon AVR-S750H, but it's a little pricey at $500 from Amazon or $430 from Costco. I only need 5.1, though I think in the range of receivers I'm looking at, 7.1 will be standard. If I found one with 7 HDMI ports that would be ideal, though I know that's asking alot. Even the Denon only has 6 (5 in the rear, 1 in the front). And I need one with a phono input. I already have a preamp, but I'd like to reduce the amount of wires and boxes to plug in I have around.

Is it a standard feature now that receivers will take any non-digital input (ie component or composite video) and output it over HDMI? When I got my VSX 1020 in 2010 that was a fancy feature, but I imagine it's standard now? Regardless, I don't currently have any component or composite devices to plug in, but it would be nice to know it would be easy if I needed to use one.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


qirex posted:

For what you want maybe look for a used 2016-2017 flagship model? The Yamaha RX-A1050, 2050, 1060, 2060 or Denon X2400, 3400, etc. have component switching. Of course if it dies you'll be in the same boat but it's probably the only way to get what you want well under a grand. Don't buy Onkyos from before 2018.

Meh, that feature is not really a dealbreaker for me, just something I remember being a hot poo poo feature in 2010 and that would be nice to have. Not something I really need given that I have zero component/composite devices now and no interest in serious retro gaming or anything of that sort.

Right now I'm basically ready to pull the trigger on Wirecutter's recommendation, the Denon AVR-S750H. Anyone got any strong feelings one way or another on that receiver?

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


KS posted:

Recommended the AVR-S750H to my mom for her new TV and was super impressed with its capabilities when I messed with it. I have a 4400H and it's probably not worth the price difference.

Note it dips below MSRP routinely. She paid $350. https://camelcamelcamel.com/product/B07QQ87Y6M?context=search Refurbs are $340 on A4L.


Paul MaudDib posted:

receivers seem like something you might try Greentoe on, also.

Thanks for the info and the Greentoe recommendation. I used Greentoe to get my C8 and it was great, and then I totally forgot about them. I've got a $350 offer in to them now and if that gets rejected I'll probably just order from Costco for $429. It's more expensive, but I'll get 3 extra years of warranty plus theoretically infinite warranty due to Costco's generous return policy.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Is there an iOS app out there that will help me set the proper audio delay between my receiver and my TV? I searched and found one that costs 20 dollars and has bad reviews.

For now I just set it by eye and it looks pretty close but every now and then I'll see something that makes me think it's still a hair out of sync.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


bull3964 posted:

That's likely because audio sync isn't static between sources and programming so it'll change on you.

Not being static between sources I can understand, but it really should be static between programming, no? Content is either in sync or it isn't. I'm not talking about instances of loose ADR here.

And as for different sources, 95% of my TV watching is done with my AppleTV, so once the delay is properly set for that, it should be good for all my TV-watchin'.

Like I said, it seems pretty drat close at the moment, I was just looking for some confirmation to erase any doubt.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Josh Lyman posted:

Are you using ARC or is video going into your receiver then your TV?

ATV 4K -> Receiver -> TV

I have ARC set up for the rare occasions I want to use the built-in TV apps, but it's not the majority of my viewing.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Number_6 posted:

If anyone doesn't have anything better to do, please check out the first minute of Season 1, Episode 21, and let me know if the lipsync is way off.

The whole episode looks out of sync to me. It's worse at the beginning, but I skipped to the end and it's still not right.

Switched to another episode and it's much better so I know it's not just my TV.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


I don't think it looks terrible but I'd be constantly concerned that the whole thing was going to tip over.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


My C8 has a few dried waterspots on the screen. They arenít visible during content, but when the screen is off and the light hits it just right, you can see these waterspots.

Dry microfiber cloths donít help here. Whatís safe to use on the screen? Water? Distilled water? Lens cleaning solution? Infant blood? Something else?

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Lights posted:

My fiance Animal Crossed my old TV into its grave.

I'm worried about my wife doing this to our LG C8. Especially with her habit of just putting the controller down and dicking around on her phone or walking out of the room for 20 minutes at a time.

Fortunately the TV (or the Switch?) goes into a super-dim mode after like 5 minutes of inactivity and I have to assume the burn-in damage being done in that super-dim mode is negligible.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


FBS posted:

I managed to throw my phone into my X930E and shatter the screen (on the TV, the phone is fine) :sigh:

Geez I was upset when the Rangers lost, but not that upset.

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Is there any way to turn off the setting where the LG OLED slowly gets dimmer and dimmer if the TV hasn't detected a scene change? It's happening to me a lot watching Doom Patrol, where a scene will start in the dimly-lit mansion, then slowly get dimmer until by the end of the scene it's super-dim, then pop up to normal brightness like a second into the next scene.

Or, if there's no way to turn it off, can I at least alter the threshold at which it starts to dim the display?

OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


bull3964 posted:

Service menu is the only way I know of. It involves setting TPC Enable to "Off" on my C6. I'm not sure if its the same in the newer models or not. Do a search for disabling ASBL (Automatic Static Brightness Limiting) for your model.

Yeah, i knew it could be disabled in the service menu, but no one on the internet seems to know for sure how potentially dangerous this is for the tv. Guess Iíll live with it for now.

Just out of curiosity, do the Sony OLEDs do this too, or is this just an LG thing?

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OldSenileGuy
Mar 13, 2001


Inner Light posted:

No. Price adjustments and price matching are a Big Deal for retailers and fine print. Each will have different rules that you need to check out. Otherwise everybody would claim ridiculous deals and retailers wouldn't make as big a profit, boo hoo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbC0-tuYE2o

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