|
Since I’ve got three different goons emailing me with rotary questions, it’s become apparent that I’ve somehow become known as an expert on rotaries (how the hell did that happen? I’m not sure I’m qualified…) It looks like we might benefit from a rotary megathread, as it seems a few rotary project threads are attracting random questions. So, here is my (probably lame) attempt at supplying the demand. I feel moderately qualified to answer questions about first and second generation RX-7 as I used to own a 1985 GSL-SE, and currently own two TIIs. I'm good friends with people who own and race FDs and RX-8, so I can probably point to the right answers for questions on those. History: The wankel rotary engine was invented by a German engineer named Felix Wankel. The design supposedly came to him in a dream one night in the summer of 1919 when Wankel was 17 years old. For the next few years, Wankel would tinker and refine the design over time, even establishing a small R&D lab to work on projects related to his new engine design. During World War 2, Wankel worked for the German military, butting his engine work on hold, but designing valves and seals for aircraft and marine applications which would feed back into the rotary engine design. Unfortunately the rotary engine design nearly died at the end of the war. Wankel was imprisoned by the Allies, his work confiscated, and his lab shut down. He was also prohibited from working on his engine designs for several years afterwards. Finally getting back on his feet, and able to resume work on the rotary engine, Wankel attracted the attention of NSU, a post-war engineering outfit with radical ideas and the means to pursue them. Wankel was first put to the task of designing a supercharger for a 50-cc motorcycle that would later set the world speed record of 120mph. The supercharger became the first practical application of Wankel’s new engine design and its success convinced NSU to allow Wankel free reign to work on his designs. The first testable prototype of the rotary engine design was the 1957 DKM. Although too complicated for commercial use, it was followed by the 1958 KKM, which was unveiled to the world in 1959. While NSU would soon put the rotary engine in one of their own cars, they had interest from all over the world in the new engine design, and eventually several companies would license the design for their own use including Curtiss-Wright, Daimler-Benz, Ford, Toyota, GM, Volkswagen and Toyo Kogo (Mazda). While the other companies did experiment and produce a few commercial applications of the rotary engine, Mazda opened an entire R&D division dedicated to improving the known flaws of housing chattering (seal harmonics) and high seal wear (seal composition). By the 1970s oil crisis, many companies had abandoned the rotary design, and the rest (save Mazda) abandoned it shortly after due to the high fuel consumption. Design: The rotary engine consists of one or more triangular hypotrochoid rotors (a shape that maintains a constant width in two dimensions, for any orientation), positioned around an eccentric shaft. The eccentric shaft rotates with the movement of the rotors creating torque to a flywheel, much like a crankshaft does in a piston engine. Since two apexes on a rotor placed in the housing form a sealed working chamber, a single rotor is able to have three separate working chambers, each in different stages of the Otto cycle, at any point in time, without the use of valves. The benefits are an extremely simple design, with high power to weight, and low inherent vibration. The draw backs include different emissions problems when compared to a piston engine, the inability to repair most failures without a complete engine teardown and rebuild, and the necessity to inject oil into the combustion chambers so that all the seals are properly lubricated. I think I’m being fair and balanced when I say that overall, rotary engines are not better or worse than piston engines. Rotaries are better in some respects, and worse in others, but on the whole, they are just different. Every make and model has their own quirks (For example, BMW electrical systems which lock down the car for unrelated minor faults), so while owning a rotary may not be for everyone, they are certainly not automatically inferior to a LS1. Present: Mazda’s most well known rotary engine vehicles are the three generations of RX-7 and the RX-8 The first generation of RX-7 covers 1978-1985. It includes Series 1, 2, and 3 (sub-generational model indentification) and is commonly refered to at the SA or FB after the chassis code in the VIN. The first gen RX-7 started with a 1.1L 12A carbureted engine making about 115 hp, and ended up with an early production 1.3L fuel injected 13B making 135 hp in the US, or a turbocharged 12A in Japan (and possibly elsewhere?) in the luxury S3 models. In an attempt to keep costs down, many parts-bin items were chosen, including a reticulating-ball type steering system, and a 4-link live axle rear end. Depending on the specific year and model, power steering, AC, automatic or manual transmission, rear disk brakes, and a limited slip differential were all options. The second generation (FC) covers 1986-1992, and includes S4 and S5 models. Refined NA fuel injected 13Bs made 146 hp (S4) and 160 hp (S5). Turbo 13Bs made 182 hp (S4) and 200 hp (S5). Reticulating ball steering was replaced with rack and pinion, 4 wheel disk brakes were standard, and the live axle rear end was replaced with an independent trailing arm rear suspension. A special 10th anniversary edition turbo model came out for the ’88 model year (S4), is highly desired by collectors. The ’92 model year was almost completely unsold ’91 NAs, with the exception of a special interior for the convertible line. The third generation (FD) covers 1993-2002 (S6, 7, and 8), but the last US model would be the ’95. A complex twin sequential turbo system on a 13B-REW produced an amazing 252hp in the initial ’93 model. With additional suspension improvements over the FC, the FD won many accolades as the “perfect” sports car. The RX-8 marked the rotary’s return to the US, spanning 2003-2012. Departing from the two-door RX-7 predecessors, the RX-8 had suicide style four doors with back seats standard. The RENESIS 13B-MSP has a number of advancements over the 13B-REW including side exhaust ports which eliminated port overlap and helped with unburned fuel scavenging and revised fuel injection system. The NA only RX-8 launched with 238 hp in the performance model. Racing: The rotary engine has arguably been the heart of Mazda’s racing programs. The first and second generation RX-7s have won numerous IMSA titles, year after year. The famous quad-rotor 787B outright won the 1991 Le Mans resulting in the first and only Japanese Marque win in Le Mans history and an immediate ban of the rotary engine. Mazda continues to race in other circuits, and has started the Formula Mazda program, a spec open wheel racing class built around the 13B-MSP engine out of the RX-8. Future: Despite no current production vehicles, the rotary is not dead. Due to its high power to weight ratio, Mazda has announced a rotary hybrid to arrive in 2013. Mazda has also announced a 16X based RX-7 to arrive in 2017. Resources: Books- Mazda RX-7 Performance Handbook by Mike Ancas -out of print by now, if you come across a used copy it might be interesting to pick it up, but I wouldn’t go on Amazon and pay $100+ for a used copy. Provides a detailed history of the rotary engine, and modification suggestions with generation specific information, but some of the suggested parts are out of date, and may be no longer available. Street Rotary by Mark Warner -Should still be in print. I would consider this superior to the Ancas book. The history section tends to be more Mazda specific and focuses on engine developments from the first gen RX-7 to the RX-8. Each chapter covers a different system (fuel, oil cooling, etc) with theory and practice (and sometimes a little basic math) explaining how things work, why they are designed that way, and concerns about upgrading the system. Less “buy part X” and more “this is how you would engineer a replacement part” Rotary Forums- https://www.ausrotary.com https://www.nopistons.com https://www.rx7club.com https://www.rx8club.com https://www.rotarycarclub.com Parts- https://www.mazdatrix.com https://www.pineappleracing.com https://www.atkinsrotary.com https://www.banzai-racing.com Factory Service Manuals - https://rx7.foxed.ca Brigdh fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jan 7, 2013 |
#
?
Dec 25, 2012 22:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 04:14 |
|
|
Slightly off topic, but Randcam Rotary Diesel caught my eye some time ago: http://machinedesign.com/article/rotary-engine-burns-diesel-0707 
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2012 22:11
|
|
|
I recently read this neat (but definitely not comprehensive) look at air flow considerations in rotaries: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/2645/rotary-radness-mazdatrixs-13b-rewmsp-hybrid.aspx Read the comments and links therein, too. The author goofed and didn't cleanly correct the differences between an old bridgeport and what is done to the hybrid motor there, but it's still neat to see what did and didn't change between the old motors and the Renesis.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2012 22:27
|
|
|
Does anyone use aftermarket pedals or extension for their FC? The FC is just like my Miata in that the gas pedal is out of reach unless I precariously dangle a mere 1/2" of shoe on the brake pedal. I found these: http://www.autovation.net/products/Mazda/FCRX7/FCRX7_pedals/repo/No_logo_MT_4pc.html But am not sure what's out there. Buggin the Miata thread to see if FCs use the same pedal, since Flyin Miata has just a gas pedal cover.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2012 02:35
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Does anyone use aftermarket pedals or extension for their FC? The FC is just like my Miata in that the gas pedal is out of reach unless I precariously dangle a mere 1/2" of shoe on the brake pedal. Never had that problem with mine. How tall are you?
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2012 03:40
|
|
|
Devyl posted:Never had that problem with mine. How tall are you? 5'10", 33" inseam. I practically drape myself over the wheel in the FC; it's an interesting riding position. I wear a wideish size 11 Piloti, and maybe it's cuz my right knee is tilted to the right by the wheel, but I can't move my heel over very well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2012 03:47
|
|
|
I've been reading the hell out of this site for the past week: http://ateupwithmotor.com/sports-cars-and-muscle-cars/287-mazda-rotary-part-1.html I never even knew the original Luce was a FWD rotary.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2012 06:05
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Does anyone use aftermarket pedals or extension for their FC? The FC is just like my Miata in that the gas pedal is out of reach unless I precariously dangle a mere 1/2" of shoe on the brake pedal. In my chump car, we just took the stock pedal out, heated it with a torch, bent it to where I wanted it to be, and reinstalled. It may not be super fancy and cost money but it sure got the job done.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2012 06:38
|
|
|
Excellent timing finding this thread! My buddy's dad (a 55 year old guy who maintains his cars well but drives a ton) just got a new car and is getting rid of his 2004 RX-8 with 230,000km on it. He'll give it to me for $2500. I should buy this right? I figure worst case scenario I have to buy a new engine for 2k and I'm still ahead. I was planning on getting a safety inspection first to make sure all the tie-rods aren't smashed to pieces and it doesn't need brakes on all corners first.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2012 21:06
|
|
|
Corrupt Cypher posted:Excellent timing finding this thread! My buddy's dad (a 55 year old guy who maintains his cars well but drives a ton) just got a new car and is getting rid of his 2004 RX-8 with 230,000km on it. He'll give it to me for $2500. I'd personally go for it. You could probably part out the car for more than you'd pay for it assuming the engine was blown and you had the paitence. At ~150k miles, the engine should still be good, if its been maintained. You could get a compression test done on it and check it against the FSM, which you can find free at http://foxed.ca/ (putting this link in the OP since I forgot) A compression test won't tell you everything, but it'll give you a general indication of how close the engine is to rebuild status or not. The RX-8 is a fun little machine, that is fairly practical (I'm 6'2" and fit in the back seat), just don't expect stellar fuel economy. Edit: I think the '04s are the ones with the transmission extended warranties, you might want to take the VIN to a dealership to see if all the warranty/recall work was done. Did the owner keep a bottle of oil in the trunk? I generally find the best maintained rotaries have a bottle or two of oil somewhere in the car so what the oil can be topped off when the level is checked filling the tank up for gas. Brigdh fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Dec 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2012 21:37
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:I'd personally go for it. You could probably part out the car for more than you'd pay for it assuming the engine was blown and you had the paitence. At ~150k miles, the engine should still be good, if its been maintained. You could get a compression test done on it and check it against the FSM, which you can find free at http://foxed.ca/ (putting this link in the OP since I forgot) Thank you good sir. I haven't gotten out to see the car yet but with random-guy-from-the-internet's concurrence that will probably be enough for me to make an irresponsible decision.  I know for certain that it has been maintained at the dealer so I'm pretty sure all the warranty work has been done. It's a 5-speed as well so I don't think there should be any transmission issues. New clutch 3 years ago as well. Summer/Winter tires (I live in Canada), starting to make it seem like a no brainer. Ahhh way loving excited.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2012 21:58
|
|
|
parid posted:In my chump car, we just took the stock pedal out, heated it with a torch, bent it to where I wanted it to be, and reinstalled. It may not be super fancy and cost money but it sure got the job done. I've got some notion of keeping the car as close to stock as possible. Drilling a pedal beats hauling the whole arm to bend it. I'll try to take a look to see what the pedals look like when I get back from xmas vaca.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 11:08
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:I've got some notion of keeping the car as close to stock as possible. Drilling a pedal beats hauling the whole arm to bend it. I'll try to take a look to see what the pedals look like when I get back from xmas vaca. For whats its worth, I have that same website bookmarked. Someone must have recommended it to me. I've never bought anything off of it as I don't seem to have much issue covering the pedals with my size 13 wide shoes, I tend to have problems getting my knees under the steering wheel so I'm not contorting in uncomfortable positions to do heel-toe. Eventually I think I'll install a racetech seat and a smaller diameter aftermarket steering wheel to open up some room. Have you checked that the stock wheel is all the way up? Most likely it is (and will most likely surprise you how low it goes, WTF was Mazda thinking?), there is a lever under the column that runs most of the length of the column. You need to pull that down maybe 1.5 inches, and then the wheel will move.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 19:22
|
|
|
I'd adjusted the wheel to suit my upper body with no compromise given to my legs. Can't remember if I left any upward swing on it. But yeah, it goes really far down.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 22:10
|
|
|
I can see this being a great thread. I've always had a soft spot for rotaries despite reliability issues. If I had the tools, money and know-how, I'd buy an RX7 or Starlet to play with. The rotary wankel design was first drafted to be a supercharger. With the introduction of fuel and an ignition source, almost any pump can be turned into an engine. Makes me wonder what a rotary vane supercharger would sound like as an engine. Anyways I digress. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UO-8jaJb0I Gotta love the sound. rcman50166 fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Dec 27, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 22:27
|
|
|
I read this and was left with two questions. What about the RX-3 and RX-5? And is there a 1, 2, 4 and 6? I've never seen them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 22:29
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:I read this and was left with two questions. What about the RX-3 and RX-5? And is there a 1, 2, 4 and 6? I've never seen them. http://ateupwithmotor.com/component/content/article/287.html rcman50166 posted:The rotary wankel design was first drafted to be a supercharger.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 22:32
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:Slightly off topic, but Randcam Rotary Diesel caught my eye some time ago: Holy hell that thing will be impossible to oil and cool properly  I used to own an FC convertible. I may grow impatient and get an RX8 rather than waiting for 2017 for a new RX7. EightBit fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Dec 27, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 22:53
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Holy hell that thing will be impossible to oil and cool properly Yeah, I cannot see how its supposed to get its oil supply or maintain lubrication.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 23:02
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:I read this and was left with two questions. What about the RX-3 and RX-5? And is there a 1, 2, 4 and 6? I've never seen them. Mazda started with the R100 and R130, then "jumped" to the RX-2. After that was the RX-3, RX-4, and RX-5 (Cosmo). I haven't seen anything on a RX-6 but there were a couple prototype cars between the RX-5 and the RX-7, so maybe one of them was supposed to be the RX-6 and never went into full production? There was also a Rotary Engined Pickup (REPU) that has a very loyal following I don't know much about them, and generally have very little interest in researching much about them. Most resources seem to gloss over them. If someone knows more than I, and wants to write something, I'd be happy to put it up in the OP somewhere Brigdh fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Dec 27, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 23:34
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:Yeah, I cannot see how its supposed to get its oil supply or maintain lubrication. Reminds me a lot of academia. Usually a project goes as far as it needs to in order to solve a specific problem or prove a concept, then gets dropped because its no longer interesting and any remaining problems can be solved by "someone else".
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 23:43
|
|
|
I used to have an FC3S ('90 RX7) GTU. Base model, non turbo. I had to sell it because of school and extremely poor financial management.  Rotaries are delightfully smooth and are very easy to wind all the way out without realising it. Such a fun car to drive, I look forward to having another rotary-powered vehicle in the future.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 23:57
|
|
|
I fear (hope) that some sort of rotary powered thing will be in my possession in the coming months. Watch me end up with a snowmobile.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 00:00
|
|
|
I'd love to pickup a rotary, perhaps an 80s Mazda, but time and money are not on my side, and my Audis have to come first... ...seems like everyone wants a mint for their old RX-7s anyways.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 00:08
|
|
|
I am, by the way, still putting that 12a in my Sprite. The project is in standstill for the winter months, though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 00:53
|
|
|
I have another question. How long are the Mazda rotaries normally? I mean like crank pulley to bellhousing? It's just idle curiosity but I've been wracking my brain trying to think of a motor in the smallest package possible.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 00:56
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:I have another question. How long are the Mazda rotaries normally? I mean like crank pulley to bellhousing? It's just idle curiosity but I've been wracking my brain trying to think of a motor in the smallest package possible. Went and did a rough measurement on the '89 TII in the garage, the front housing to the bell housing is about 16 inches. Add maybe 3" to that for all the pullies and belts This one-rotor motor would probably be only 2/3rds to 75% of that: http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=14
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 01:25
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:I have another question. How long are the Mazda rotaries normally? I mean like crank pulley to bellhousing? It's just idle curiosity but I've been wracking my brain trying to think of a motor in the smallest package possible. Subaru motors are shorter but wider incl the heads. The H4 shortblock is remarkably tiny. And lighter which is the single motor I've ever played with that can boast that over a rotary. Did you know there was a Holden with a rotary? It was sold in Japan as the Roadpacer - 13B. With the weight it kinda didnt go well. Also in rotary history you have the later Cosmo, which had the 20B twin turbo in it. That.... didnt have the same problem as the Roadpacer I really gotta do a few more RADL titles.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 01:55
|
|
|
The REPU and Roadpacer are briefly explained halfway down this page: http://ateupwithmotor.com/sports-cars-and-muscle-cars/288-mazda-rotary-part-2.html?start=3 Where did poster JnnyThndrs go? He was big into the early rotaries, iirc.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 02:03
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:Mazda started with the R100 and R130, then "jumped" to the RX-2. After that was the RX-3, RX-4, and RX-5 (Cosmo). I haven't seen anything on a RX-6 but there were a couple prototype cars between the RX-5 and the RX-7, so maybe one of them was supposed to be the RX-6 and never went into full production? The REPU is pretty commonly thought of as the RX-6. At least that was the consensus among the rotards I hung out with when I was playing with my 7s (used to have a '83 GSL and a '84 GSL-SE). And as far as I know, either the R100 or 110s (not yet mentioned in this thread as far as I can see) could be considered the unofficial "1" model. 110S (so tiny!):  I love early RX-7s partly because of the lack of "proper" aftermarket support - lots of cutting, grinding, test-fitting, and welding happened with my pair. I even blew up the -SE's 13b, found a FC engine, and swapped it and a new clutch in without the luxury of a manual. The cross-compatibility and dead-simplicity on these cars are great for shadetree engineers. Of course they also look, sound, smell, and drive like demons. I used to take my GSL on mountain twisty drives and would calculate economy out to like 8mpg... it LOVED being wrung out all the time, every time. I'll pick up another rotary one day... maybe a Suzuki RE5 (that radiator!) 
clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Dec 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 02:29
|
|
|
I've thought about picking up a rotary something or other, but I have to rule out an SA/FB (which would otherwise be my first choice based on looks alone) due to me being a giant, which I found out a few months back when an ultra-clean one stopped by my shop to have the charging system looked at. My old coworker who's going into the army is selling his modified turbo FC, but he wants $4,500 absolute rock-bottom minimum, which is way out of my price range, and all the ones I find on craigslist that, y'know, have an engine are the same story.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 02:32
|
|
|
Have you actually sat in a gen1? No back seat means you actually do get a lot of space to stretch yourself out. At 5'10" I always had a few more inches I could scoot the seat back when I was in "driving position"; you pretty much sit on the rear axle. If you did sit in it and it had leather seats... try out cloth seats. I HATED the leather in my GSL-SE, it sat entirely too high and was WAY too slippery for the kind of driving I wanted to do. The cloth seats from my GSL were a million times better not counting the gigantic tears in the upholstery.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 02:36
|
|
|
Yeah I drove the one at my shop, with the seat all the way back and wheel as high as it could go my knees barely fit, and I still had to hunch down up top so it was way uncomfortable. Cloth seats too. I'm 6'5", so it's a problem with just about every sports car I've ever been in.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 02:40
|
|
|
What's going on in here  Second and (primarily) third gen "expert" reporting for questions. Don't forget https://www.rotarycarclub.com I should see if I can get Rob@ Pineapple to setup a 10% discount for forum members. the spyder fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Dec 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 03:05
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:Went and did a rough measurement on the '89 TII in the garage, the front housing to the bell housing is about 16 inches. Add maybe 3" to that for all the pullies and belts Okay that one rotor motor is very cool. Thanks for the measurement by the way. I just need to dig up some other measurements and compare. Sorry I don't really have a massive interest in the cars but the engines intrigue me. Also if you are wondering it's not so much figuring out if a rotary will fit something, but whether it can potentially fit something with a transmission. I'm considering options on butchering another vehicle, but it's not for me. The big issue is it needs to be auto but that option doesn't exist. The OE manual is very short and it's impossible to have a longer transmission unless the engine is moved forward. So just considering things. y'know? Nothing immediate anyway.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 03:07
|
|
|
Can't mention Wankel without mentioning the Wankel seatbelt tensioners: http://www.google.com/patents?vid=USPAT5485970&id=N6QhAAAAEBAJ&dq=5485970  A small charge is fired that turns the rotary and tightens the seatbelt when a crash is sensed.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 03:12
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:The REPU is pretty commonly thought of as the RX-6. At least that was the consensus among the rotards I hung out with when I was playing with my 7s (used to have a '83 GSL and a '84 GSL-SE). Thats odd, because the REPU was from '74-'76 and the RX-5 was '76-'78. Based on years alone, I wouldn't necessarily consider it the RX-6, but eh, whatever. Yeah, the sources I have suggest that the RX line started at 2 because Mazda didn't want people confusing a RX-1 with the R100. Seems plausible to me. Fucknag posted:I've thought about picking up a rotary something or other, but I have to rule out an SA/FB (which would otherwise be my first choice based on looks alone) due to me being a giant, which I found out a few months back when an ultra-clean one stopped by my shop to have the charging system looked at. My old coworker who's going into the army is selling his modified turbo FC, but he wants $4,500 absolute rock-bottom minimum, which is way out of my price range, and all the ones I find on craigslist that, y'know, have an engine are the same story. I'm 6'2" and fit ok in my SE with the stock seats (which due to the tilt mechanism, end up being the highest sitting). I put in some base model second gen seats and ended up having enough head room to have a helmet on for autocrossing while just barely brushing the roof. The sunroof on the SE was fairly wide, so you could gain an extra inch by leaning your head over just a little. Assuming that the Turbo FC is S5, and not beat to hell, $4500 is about fair, sadly. $3500 for S4 (a hell of a lot more common in the US). Brigdh fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Dec 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 03:19
|
|
|
the spyder posted:What's going on in here Huh. I don't recall ever having visited that link. Its going in the OP General_Failure posted:Okay that one rotor motor is very cool. Thanks for the measurement by the way. I just need to dig up some other measurements and compare. Sorry I don't really have a massive interest in the cars but the engines intrigue me. I've never seen an automatic first gen, but I know swapping auto-> manual is popular in the second gen world, so you might because to satisfy that automatic requirement by getting someone's used and unwanted post-swap parts. Automatics on a rotary are generally a bad idea because an automatic will try to keep the revs down, while a rotary really likes the revs high. One of the reasons why early automatic RX-8s were particularly susceptible to engine/tranny failures that eventually had the extended warranty.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 03:26
|
|
|
Compared to an I-4 of comparable power, does the rotary engine have more depth below the centerline of the e-shaft compared to the inline? It seems maybe a bit thicker in that respect, but then rotary oil pans seem super shallow. In the past, people discussing rotary swaps into the Miata have been shot down on the basis of the engine sitting too low (without some sort of offset gear). I paid $4500 for my stock S5 Turbo, and then put a ton of money in when its electrics acted up right after the sale (I handed the cash over and the car decided right then to have wiring troubles and fire the horn continuously until the fuse was pulled). I think I overpaid a tad, but the interior is in amazing shape and there's no rust which is great for a NE car.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 04:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 04:14 |
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Compared to an I-4 of comparable power, does the rotary engine have more depth below the centerline of the e-shaft compared to the inline? It seems maybe a bit thicker in that respect, but then rotary oil pans seem super shallow. In the past, people discussing rotary swaps into the Miata have been shot down on the basis of the engine sitting too low (without some sort of offset gear). I will measure the 2.3 and the REW in the shop tomorrow. I would guess that the rotary would be smaller, at least when using the REW and renisis pans.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 04:56
|
|