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The Momo Commando someone was selling on SAMart. Kinda ricy, but I just one want that's small. Having a flat bottom helps even more. The off-center tab on my horn button has the ground symbol. Maybe that one plugs up to the black wire in the hub? The hub has a copper ring on the back side, which I presume grounds it. To finish off, plug the hot wire from the column into the center of the horn button? This leaves the chrome ring unplugged which I assume is fine.
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Jan 16, 2013 21:58
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kimbo305 posted:The Momo Commando someone was selling on SAMart. Kinda ricy, but I just one want that's small. Having a flat bottom helps even more. Sounds ok to me. I'd probably unplug the battery and triple check everything with a multimeter before hooking the battery back up just to be paranoid.
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Jan 17, 2013 00:03
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GutBomb posted:The RX8 autos really aren't so bad if you do your spirited driving with tiptronic. There's no kickdown. All of the auto RX8s (even the unfortunate 4 speed model like I have from '05) have tiptronic and paddle shifters. My big problem with Tiptronics and autos in general has never been kickdown (Of course I've never driven an auto RX-8 hard), but the fact that when you let off the gas or downshift, the car just keeps coasting thanks to the torque converter. There's no way to engine brake properly at all. I just stick autos in D, and drive em like a granny. The auto RX-8 I drove before buying my stick shift certainly was plenty fun on the upshifts in Tiptronic mode.
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Jan 17, 2013 05:41
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SocketSeven posted:My big problem with Tiptronics and autos in general has never been kickdown (Of course I've never driven an auto RX-8 hard), but the fact that when you let off the gas or downshift, the car just keeps coasting thanks to the torque converter. There's no way to engine brake properly at all. I just stick autos in D, and drive em like a granny. In 3rd and 4th there's definitely a very smooth coast but in 2nd it catches and slows down fairly well.
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Jan 22, 2013 19:19
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So the prices of FD RX-7s (in the SF bay anyway) seem to have come down a lot in the last 2 years or so. I used to always see them between $15k and $20k but now they're like $9k to $12k (which is incidentally the price of an RX-8 with similar miles). They all have north of 100k miles and look a little tired. How much trouble am I in for? So, FD vs RX-8 as a cheap-ish track car and occasional grocery getter? I'm far, far less excited about the RX-8, but I assume it handles better and might be more reliable than the FD.
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Jan 30, 2013 01:21
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What's the deal with RX-8 prices these days, anyway? They seem way too low for what the car is (or at least what I understand it to be). Just the fuel efficiency numbers driving people away?
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Jan 30, 2013 02:30
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an audible groan posted:What's the deal with RX-8 prices these days, anyway? They seem way too low for what the car is (or at least what I understand it to be). Just the fuel efficiency numbers driving people away? Aren't they also known for engine issues if not well maintained? Also they're kind of ugly.  IIRC the Mazda upped the powertrain warranty to 8 years ... so I figure alot of '08s have come out of warranty now and might be on their last legs (if the engine hasn't been replaced)? (I'm not sure if the average buyer is doing this kind of science) e: I meant to say "a lot of '04s have come out of warranty" Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 02:35
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I've been looking at the upkeep stuff and it doesn't seem THAT bad (coming from 80s german motronic nightmare). Apparently if the engine has been replaced you're good to go, otherwise just get a compression test, though that could get expensive if you're seriously shopping for them. And I think they look good 
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Jan 30, 2013 02:40
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For an FD, you are probably looking at rebuilding the turbos, possibly rebuilding the engine, refreshing the suspension, and dealing with whatever stupid mods the previous owners did. As far as I know, only the early RX-8s had engine issues, an '08 should be fine. Still fun, a little bit more practical. I'd probably go for a RX-8 over a FD, unless I was planning on spending 20k to build the FD up into a track car or something. I think RX-8 look great until you look at the back. The rear window seems too short to me.
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Jan 30, 2013 02:49
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Has this been posted yet? Not many words are required:  OK, words: 13b, BMW rearend, hashtagholyshit
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Jan 30, 2013 02:54
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clutchpuck posted:Has this been posted yet? Release clutch, buy new rear tire.
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Jan 30, 2013 03:45
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EightBit posted:Release clutch, get re-incarnated. Fixed that for you.
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Jan 30, 2013 03:53
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I was trying to figure out how you'd even sit on that thing without some part of it trying to eat / incinerate you.
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Jan 30, 2013 04:02
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Winter killed my FC's battery. I jumped it and then drove it around for a long while, but at low RPMs, the alternator had trouble powering everything. I fear electrical gremlins, given the cold soldering issues that I inherited when I bought it  .
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Jan 30, 2013 04:11
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kimbo305 posted:Winter killed my FC's battery. I jumped it and then drove it around for a long while, but at low RPMs, the alternator had trouble powering everything. I fear electrical gremlins, given the cold soldering issues that I inherited when I bought it Hey dead Mazda battery buddy.  I'm afraid to take the Deka off the motorcycle charger and see if I can get the Miata out of the snowbank it lives in. Even though the charger (now) says it's OK I'm worried that I'm gonna be stuck with buying a new battery.
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Jan 30, 2013 04:23
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Hog Obituary posted:So the prices of FD RX-7s (in the SF bay anyway) seem to have come down a lot in the last 2 years or so. I used to always see them between $15k and $20k but now they're like $9k to $12k (which is incidentally the price of an RX-8 with similar miles). Now that my brain has stopped exploding, let's go over what you will need to do to a 100k FD. First off- if the engine has not been rebuilt and the turbos are original, prepare to spend $6-8k fixing this. This includes having to clean the injectors, replace the fuel filter above the loving diff, tons of gaskets, oil metering lines, all engine block coolant hoses- might as well do the waterpump/thermostat while your at it. We haven't even gotten to the rats nest, turbo control solinoids, or crispy as gently caress wiring harness. Make that $10k. Next up- Suspension, every bushing is going to be shot. The struts will be blown and springs weak. The top hats will also be blow, the swaybar endlinks shot and mounts bent. If it is a 93- The interior plastics will be peeling, the passenger door handle broken. The glove box may or may not close. If it has the stock cooling system still, prepare to spend $600 replacing it with a good radiator/ast/oem hoses. The main befit the RX8 has is the engine rebuild will be only real expense compared to a 20yr old car like the FD. Why do I love these cars again? the spyder fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 05:44
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Does anyone know where I might be able to find some publications, papers, or just equations on how to draft the form the rotor path takes? I think once I figure that out, it will be easier than designing a V8. The "simplicity" of a rotary would even allow me to build a prototype.
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Jan 30, 2013 06:22
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the spyder posted:Now that my brain has stopped exploding, let's go over what you will need to do to a 100k FD. So what you're saying is I should just buy a C5
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Jan 30, 2013 06:50
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Hog Obituary posted:So what you're saying is I should just buy a C5 No. Yes. gently caress. Long day. You could be insane like me and take a shell, 20b, widebody it, and track it.
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Jan 30, 2013 06:55
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Hog Obituary posted:So what you're saying is I should just buy a C5 If driving feel is what you're looking for, the C5 doesn't have it.
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Jan 30, 2013 06:58
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the spyder posted:No. Yes. gently caress. Long day. How many laps before you have to rebuild it? 
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Jan 30, 2013 06:58
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rcman50166 posted:Does anyone know where I might be able to find some publications, papers, or just equations on how to draft the form the rotor path takes? I think once I figure that out, it will be easier than designing a V8. The "simplicity" of a rotary would even allow me to build a prototype. Mazda has some, but I don't know of any off hand. Looking up hypotrochoid stuff in a high level math textbook might also help. I thought FSAE didn't allow rotaries? Hog Obituary posted:So what you're saying is I should just buy a C5 Sounds like you want a generic track car that is easy to own rather than a rotary, in that case then sure, get the C5. You probably won't be disappointed. If you do, actually dive it on the street like it should be, too many Vette owners show off the looks but don't actually drive em. As the spider says, you have to be a bit insane to own a rotary, but if that's your thing, then you get immense satisfaction from it.
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Jan 30, 2013 07:33
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the spyder posted:No. Yes. gently caress. Long day. And blow the gently caress outta the water anything that tries you on. 20B powered RX7's or RX8's are deeply impressively mindblowing fast.
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Jan 30, 2013 10:24
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clutchpuck posted:Has this been posted yet?  This would be unusably loud
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Jan 30, 2013 12:27
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Brigdh posted:Mazda has some, but I don't know of any off hand. Looking up hypotrochoid stuff in a high level math textbook might also help. I have seen it stated on other forums. I'm not sure how they got that information but the rules don't make any specific mention of it. Unless it counts as a two stroke, which it shouldn't. Whether I can or can't I still want to design one.
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Jan 30, 2013 15:25
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rcman50166 posted:I have seen it stated on other forums. I'm not sure how they got that information but the rules don't make any specific mention of it. Unless it counts as a two stroke, which it shouldn't. Whether I can or can't I still want to design one. Literally the first rule in the IC engine section: FSAE 2013 Rule IC1.1.1 posted:The engine(s) used to power the car must be a piston engine(s) using a four-stroke primary heat cycle with a displacement not exceeding 610cc per cycle... Unless you feel like arguing with the design judges about what defines a piston as opposed to a rotor I think you're out of luck.
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Jan 30, 2013 15:46
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jammyozzy posted:Literally the first rule in the IC engine section: Oh well, all it means is that I'm going to design it for the displacement I want. Does anyone have any reccomendations?
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Jan 30, 2013 18:12
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the spyder posted:Now that my brain has stopped exploding, let's go over what you will need to do to a 100k FD. If you look hard, you might be able to find a car that's had most of this done. It's a fine line between mod abuse and respectful maintenance but they exist. For example, I'm considering selling mine. Avoid any car that shows signs if ignorant ownership. Parts are far too expensive to make financial sense for "restoration". Just find a complete car and save a boat load of time and money. Even after everything wrong has been "fixed", other things will continue to go wrong. Its not bad but you will need to spend more time with this car than most other cars. Parts are harder to find and more expensive than normal. Time has left these cars behind. They were fast at the time and now.. not so much. If you did a quarter mile drag race with a stock new v6 mustang you would be neck and neck the whole way.
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Jan 30, 2013 21:40
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Well all I really want is a 2-seat or 2+2 coupe of predictable reliability* and modest power that I can track cheaply. I'm pretty close to going back to a Miata except I never really did fit in it right. I'd have to go through the whole roll bar, seat lowering, hard top, mess again... and well, I kinda hate convertibles. I used to lust after the FD, but the RX-8 seems like a practical alternative as long as its reliable. I mostly just really really hate those huge rounded fender flares (same as on the NC miata, CX-7, etc) * By predictable reliability I mean it won't be like "surprise! i'm breaking down mid-corner just because i feel like it even though you just recently went through the whole car"
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Jan 30, 2013 21:50
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Have you driven an rx8 yet? I'd still take my FD over one. Personally, the better looks + more power + less weight was well worth the extra trouble. Don't daily drive an FD though. If you have to daily drive, the RX8 is the better choice.
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Jan 30, 2013 23:54
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parid posted:Have you driven an rx8 yet? I'd still take my FD over one. Personally, the better looks + more power + less weight was well worth the extra trouble. Don't daily drive an FD though. If you have to daily drive, the RX8 is the better choice. I haven't driven one yet and I don't daily drive. In fact I sold my last car (evo) because I realized I hardly ever drove it... but well, grass is always greener and all that.
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Jan 30, 2013 23:59
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stevobob posted:
Obviously you're not a golfer.
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Jan 31, 2013 00:30
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rcman50166 posted:Does anyone know where I might be able to find some publications, papers, or just equations on how to draft the form the rotor path takes? I think once I figure that out, it will be easier than designing a V8. The "simplicity" of a rotary would even allow me to build a prototype. After doing a little research on the matter, I have found a publication on how to design the rotor and accompanying housing. It is below if anyone is interested in the matter: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~kenneth-weston/chapter7.pdf There is also a bunch on apex seal design etc. This brings me back to the other question now, how big should I make it? I was thinking a 2 rotor 600cc version. The logic is just because smaller than a 13b would make it cheaper and potentially more useful as a project engine. 600cc is admittedly still the FSAE displacement limit even though it's against the rules to use a rotary. Part of me wants to dream 
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Feb 1, 2013 20:24
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600cc would be a good choice I think, both because it's FSAE sized and because you could theoretically replace a good number of motorbike engines with it. 
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Feb 2, 2013 00:54
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Are you planning on staying with the same R/E as current day rotary's, same / similar dishing? side or peripheral intake / exhaust? If your really looking to build one, id look for a copy of "The Wankel Engine" by Jan P. Norbye ISBN 0-8019-5591-2. Ebay seems to have a bunch for under $50, which is a steal given the massive amount of information it contains.
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Feb 2, 2013 01:26
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rotard posted:Are you planning on staying with the same R/E as current day rotary's, same / similar dishing? side or peripheral intake / exhaust? I haven't read into much other than how to make the geometries of housing and rotor. So simply put, I'm not sure yet. But hey, thanks for the book recommendation. I'll need learning material to catch up to Mazda's 50 years of rotary research.
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Feb 2, 2013 01:37
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kimbo305 posted:Winter killed my FC's battery. I jumped it and then drove it around for a long while, but at low RPMs, the alternator had trouble powering everything. I fear electrical gremlins, given the cold soldering issues that I inherited when I bought it Got in it last night, and there was enough juice to power lights and belt, but not to crank. Just gave up (it was a nice yellow top) and threw in the battery I bought. First start, the horn started beeping itself, irregularly at first and then nonstop. I turned it off and tried again, still blaring. I gave it a rest, thinking the Mazda curse had settled in, but one last try and the horn stayed off. I wonder where the issue is. I drove around for a long time. Managed to run into an NSX and tell an old guy his ride was awesome.
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Feb 2, 2013 01:42
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kimbo305 posted:Got in it last night, and there was enough juice to power lights and belt, but not to crank. Just gave up (it was a nice yellow top) and threw in the battery I bought. First start, the horn started beeping itself, irregularly at first and then nonstop. I turned it off and tried again, still blaring. I gave it a rest, thinking the Mazda curse had settled in, but one last try and the horn stayed off. I wonder where the issue is. Bad ground messing with the body computer and setting off the theft system?
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Feb 2, 2013 03:13
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/3597355844.html This FD's been on CL for a while now... it's not the cleanest (peeling clearcoat, meh interior), but the owner claims a full engine rebuild (for $14k  ). Based on the ad, I would have expected it to have sold quickly, but I assume something isn't right. Assuming he has paperwork on the rebuild and a PPI checks out... well... how bad could it be?  quote:Im selling 1994 Mazda Rx7 Fd. Clean Title. 159xxx miles. 5speed manual. Power windows and sunroof. I have many service records for the car. In 2007 we did a full engine rebuilt at specialty rotary mechanic shop and payed over 14k for it. Changed all the seals, upgraded turbos, much more. Title in hand. Looking to sell for 8500. This car is super fast with twin turbos rotary motor. Mechanically the car is in great condition. The car is 19 years old and there are some cosmetic flaws but nothing to major. Interior is clean just tear in driver seat from normal wear and tear. Please only serious inquires. Please do not low ball there some on craigslist that are asking a lot more then I am. Cash in hand for test drive.
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Feb 6, 2013 08:36
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Hog Obituary posted:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/3597355844.html Seems to be about $2k under the market value for beat up FDs around me, and I think I see rust on the interior (WTF?), so something seems up. Assuming the engine is good, and the rust is just a bad picture, you'd probably have to still refresh the entire suspension, probably want to refresh the rats nest, maybe address some cooling issues FDs are known for, and a bunch of maintenance items that you'd normally have to do for a 19 year old car. If you are seriously looking for a FD, I know one that is basically a collectors item, '93 base with 10k miles on it and it looks like it just rolled off the assembly line for $25k
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Feb 6, 2013 19:09
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