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gently caress, my '91 FC has been setting off its alarm again. For a long time at midnight and starting back periodically just now. Not full-on like when I first bought it, but the periodic beep...beep...beep burglar alarm, somehow. Last time I had this problem, the car was running and the horn started beeping periodically of its own mind, for maybe a minute, regardless of what I was doing. It stopped and I assumed things were ok. Now apparently it's back. Is there any way I can disable the subcircuit the alarm is on without taking out the horn to narrow down on the issue? I can't find many references to this particular issue, but it could be because I'm half awake. Being doorbelled at 4 in the morning by the cops threatening a tow is bad, and so is pissing off everyone in the neighborhood. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 10:55 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 10:52
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kimbo305 posted:gently caress, my '91 FC has been setting off its alarm again. For a long time at midnight and starting back periodically just now. If I remember correctly, on the S5s the alarm is integrated into the body computer (next to the clutch pedal) so its just about impossible to disable. On the S4s, its a separate computer that you can yank out. My S5 was doing similar things, and I think it was a grounding problem. It used to be you had to unlock the car just before opening a door or the hood (even if the car was already unlocked) otherwise the alarm would go off. At one point, I replaced the negative cable up to the drivers side strut tower since the battery connector was corroded and flakey as hell. I also cleaned up nearly every ground connection in the engine bay I could find. I also did a few other things at the same time, so its tough to say exactly, but my alarm problems went away around the same time. I used Aaron Cake's write up on his website for cleaning the grounds, although the write up is primarily focused on S4, and the S5 has some minor differences.
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Feb 28, 2013 18:27
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I made some progress. Fired it up and drove it, and the alarm started going off middrive. I pulled over and went to pluck out the horn fuse. In front of that footwell fusebox is what I assume is the integrated ECU box. I accidentally brushed the harnesses going into the bottom of it, and that seemed to reset or stop the alarm. I tried to push some harnesses more firmly into the box, and that got the alarm to quit. I drove around some more and it didn't act up. Hopefully it's as simple as a flaky connection at the box, not wires leading to there.  The harness I touched the most is to the right of the metal tab that sticks out at the bottom of the box labeled J.  That purple wire is for the PO's audio setup. Not the most encouraging of signs, but it doesn't like it hacked up anything around it. When I parked, I decided to unplug the horns, so that if it did go off, I could come back to the car and maybe hear the relay ticking. I found one horn in front of the coolant overflow tank. Took the tank off and got it unhooked. Are there two stock? Cuz I hit my wheel horn and it beeped a single note still. So I gave up and unhooked the battery. I threw a tub of DampRid in the driver's footwell to try to dry it out more. It's been snowing/raining the past couple weeks, so I'm not surprised grounding issues have arisen.
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Feb 28, 2013 23:12
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The "J" box looks like its in the right place to be the body computer, but it doesn't look like mine, although I haven't taken off the trim like you have so my confusion might just be a trick with perspective. Actually seeing that reminded me, that 3 pin connector should be a check and diagnosis connector for the alarm. You might want to look it up in the FSM to see if you can use it to figure out why your alarm is freaking out. From what I remember visually, my S5s also have two horns so that sounds about right.
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Mar 1, 2013 03:39
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What the heck is that intake? http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/cto/3663335577.html
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Mar 10, 2013 12:01
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Why would you sell that car for a dollar? Looks like there are a few parts in there that have some resale value. I'm actually close enough to check it out...
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Mar 10, 2013 16:37
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kimbo305 posted:What the heck is that intake? A fuel injection system designed to convert carbureted V8s, why that is stuck to a carb manifold in a car that came with fuel injection, I don't know. It really looks like one of the Puerto Rico rotary deals, stuff from there is sometimes totally wacky like this.
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Mar 10, 2013 19:45
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SocketSeven posted:Why would you sell that car for a dollar? Looks like there are a few parts in there that have some resale value. To show up near the top in "sort by price." It's not actually for sale for a dollar
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Mar 10, 2013 20:16
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Better then being a stolen car I guess. I haven't dealt much with craigslist. Forgot how things worked over there.
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Mar 10, 2013 20:22
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kimbo305 posted:What the heck is that intake? Looks like a Jaytech or knockoff. You can stuff more than 8 injectors on that style intake.
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Mar 10, 2013 23:28
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So, I've more or less confirmed that my oil control rings are worn in my '85. It is not nearly as bad as some I've seen, but when I let off the gas at more than 6k, there's a bit of smoke. A couple questions: For one, is there any way I can make them wear less quickly? They aren't to the point of smokescreen yet (it really isn't all that noticeable unless I am stopped and revving in neutral) and I would like to try and extend their lives a bit if I can. For two, how big an issue is this, even? With the engine already having oil being pumped into it, I am not sure if worn rings should be a major concern yet.
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Mar 11, 2013 15:29
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There are two parts to the oil control rings. 1) The carrier- a hard metal tray that the orings sit in 2) The orings 90% of the time the o-rings dry up from being cooked (ran hot/low on oil) or age. 10% of the time the carrier cracks or wears out- destroying the orings even faster. There is nothing you can do to prevent it it, and the only thing that might extend your driving is switching to a thicker oil (20w50) which will do pretty little. You can make sure your PCV valve is working and clean- which can help. I would start planning for a rebuild or swap. The problem with 12a's is the chrome flaking usually means $$$- since new housings no longer exist. I personally would swap a 6 port 13B from a second gen that has been freshened up. Those cars with ~160hp are super fun.
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Mar 11, 2013 19:31
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the spyder posted:There are two parts to the oil control rings. I decided a while ago that when the time comes for a new motor, I was just gonna go for a 13b. It seems like a better idea (cheaper, more power, more easily available, parts more readily available) and the swap looks straight-forward enough that even a lovely mechanic like me could do it. That said, about how long will the engine last from here on out? I've read that it could still chug on for years if the seals aren't totally shot, which they don't seem to be (yet). Not that any of this matters at the moment, since my car decided to poo poo on me this morning with whatever the hell is going on here, causing me to miss class and park the thing again until I figure out what's wrong.
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Mar 11, 2013 19:39
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I think this belongs here..
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Mar 11, 2013 23:43
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Professor Bling posted:Interesting question: the rotary in my RX4 is completely borked; water seals are gone and the champagne test results in a nice geyser of coolant. Everything I can find about the US-market cars is that they ran a 13B throughout their production run. Is any 13B a plug-and-play affair as far as the motor's concerned? Basically, can I swap in a 13B from a late-model RX7 (not doing any sort of fuel injection swap, just gonna re-use the carb'd intake system)? Yes, you could. You will have to find some other parts though. Best to get something pre S5, as S4 still had mechanical oil injection although the OMP follows with the front cover so... Off the top of my head you will need a GSL-SE front cover and oil pan (motor mounts on the front cover instead of on the oil pan), a carb manifold for a 13B and 13B headers. Make sure to keep flywheel/counterweights matched to the motor. The dizzy can also be swapped in to replace the efi. There are a few posts on rx7club.com about similar swaps. Might be a good time to go 5 speed. Sgt Fox fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Mar 12, 2013 |
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Mar 12, 2013 01:48
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Phone posted:I think this belongs here.. WHAT THE gently caress! I can't see any rhyme or reason to the way those valves are opening and closing. The single piston with scotch yoke besides being a mindfuck if it's put in 3D is a clever idea if it's physically possible. otherwise A layout like a Bourke engine makes a bit more sense for the pistons. e: payoute, what the gently caress is that? Fixed.
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Mar 12, 2013 04:18
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General_Failure posted:WHAT THE gently caress! I don't think you could assemble an engine like that physically, in our boring old 3d space. You'd have to elongate the piston so that its face didn't overlap with the crankshaft, and then you just have a weird method for dealing with a flat engine layout.
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Mar 12, 2013 04:24
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Update on my shenanigans. Bought a $1500 FC with a Mikuni carb/rb adapter/rb full exhaust/tokico's and eibachs/new wheels and tires/black interior/clean title 126k. Planning selling the catback, carb, and wheels, putting it back to stock and selling it after a quick polish.   Another weekend at Pineapple.  RX4 engine swap? S5 13B- sounds amazing.  I have back problems, turns out rotor housings are the best jack stands ever. 
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Mar 13, 2013 05:46
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the spyder posted:Update on my shenanigans. White is the best color on an FC
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Mar 13, 2013 06:46
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Typical sod's law - my RX8 has been virtually trouble-free almost the entire time I've owned it, and the week where I'm due to part exchange it it starts playing up (check engine light is on and the car stutters something rotten). Local garage reset the engine yesterday, which lasted fine until I drove along a speed bump-infested road and the problem came back. Having a coil replacement this afternoon, which should hopefully do the trick, at least enough for me to do the 50 mile trip to the dealership tomorrow to make the trade. She's pissed me off this week, but overall has been a very fun car to own and drive, and has ably accommodated a car seat to transport my daughter around for the past year. Time has come for more practicality, though. Hope she goes to a good home. 
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Mar 13, 2013 15:08
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6 Rotor RX4 official unveiling: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKLCTDDBV1c That thing revs like a Makita.
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Mar 13, 2013 17:50
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People with fingers in their ears: pussies
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Mar 13, 2013 18:03
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Nodoze posted:White is the best color on an FC And an FD. EightBit posted:People with fingers in their ears: pussies I bet that thing creates a rupture in space-time when you drop the clutch.
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Mar 14, 2013 22:10
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Whats the average mileage you're seeing on FD's these days?
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Mar 14, 2013 23:49
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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clutchpuck posted:That thing revs like a Makita.
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Mar 15, 2013 00:19
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It sounds so... eager. I love a lumpy port job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZGq-q6ag0o
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Mar 15, 2013 18:13
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I'm planning to refresh the rear suspension on one of my FCs, and looking for another opinion. The main thing I want to do is install DTSS eliminator bushings, but it makes me wonder, what to do about the rubber tri-axial and spherical bearing bushings that connect the rear hubs to the arms? The Mazda training manual explains that the three bushings work in concert to implement the DTSS system. As near as I can figure, once you have DTSS eliminators, the other two bushings become pointless, and you might as well have solid replacements, or as near as possible. I figure I'll throw a poly or delrin replacement in to replace the rubber one, and maybe a custom delrin sleeve to replace the spherical bushing. The only issue is that a guy who I bounce ideas off of who also races FCs is recommending I either replace the rubber bushing with an OEM replacement or a specific aftermarket solution which is a big spherical bearing (illegal under the racing rules I'm under) to prevent binding that occurs with ploy or delrin. I'm not sure I agree with this assessment, isn't eliminating the DTSS basically introducing bind? Am I perhaps missing some critical information that makes me wrong, and my colleague right? Edit: nevermind, we were discussing different bushings Brigdh fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Mar 15, 2013 |
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Mar 15, 2013 20:18
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Whats the average mileage you're seeing on FD's these days? 100k 80k add 2k in price 50k add 5k in price 20-30k add 10k in price $10k FD = 120-150k.
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Mar 16, 2013 05:20
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Brigdh posted:I'm planning to refresh the rear suspension on one of my FCs, and looking for another opinion. The main thing I want to do is install DTSS eliminator bushings, but it makes me wonder, what to do about the rubber tri-axial and spherical bearing bushings that connect the rear hubs to the arms? Is there a link to a diagram of how DTSS is implemented in the rear suspension? The idea fascinates me, like the Weissach axle.
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Mar 16, 2013 05:43
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kimbo305 posted:Is there a link to a diagram of how DTSS is implemented in the rear suspension? The idea fascinates me, like the Weissach axle. In the OP is a link to the FSMs. In the Second Gen section, under Other, the first link is for the Training Manual. Take a look at the Suspension section. If you are interested in the actual bushing composition, I thought I saw a resource describing it that I could probably dig up again.
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Mar 16, 2013 06:33
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Sweet, thanks! I guess I can bleed my eyes out reading those wiring diagrams to try to figure out this alarm issue, too.
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Mar 16, 2013 06:44
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Brigdh posted:If you are interested in the actual bushing composition, I thought I saw a resource describing it that I could probably dig up again. Found it. In the RX-7 book by Jack K. Yamaguchi (published in '86 I think), the composition and design of the main DTSS bushing (the one everyone replaces) is described for a few pages starting on page 54.
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Mar 16, 2013 06:58
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Bad news. I found standing water in the hatch area of my FD. I also found the starting of a rust bubble at the base of the rear hatch window. With a slight break in the march oregon weather I started taking things apart to find the issue. The water is clearly coming up from above the spare wheel well. The puddle starts about the center top of that picture. Just under this fitting:  Which is a plastic wedge with threads on the inside. There is a gasket between it and the body but wait, why is it painted? Its used to mount a little black plastic piece of trim up there. Also, clearly water has been pooling under the brake light. Maybe getting in around there? Wait why is there so much seem sealer in that corner?  Ohh cock. Its been in an accident and repaired. Is this my leak? From the placement of the puddle, it seems like a stretch. It clearly needs some attention. The other side has a similar leak, maybe not as bad. That supports the little plastic fitting theory. Or the hatch. Did I mention the inside of the hatch is leaking? Probably from the base of the window (the rust bubble) or the wing. Maybe both. This is going to end up costing me a lot of money isn't it.
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Mar 22, 2013 03:31
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They didn't even prime over the welds  .
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Mar 22, 2013 19:44
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Man, FDs even come apart sexily. I'd say sand it back, get some metal ready and POR15 back there to rust proof the welds a bit. Can you remove the fitting or is it kind of stuck in there with paint?
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Mar 22, 2013 20:13
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As it turns out, FC's like to be fuel injected VS carb'd.    Did some porting for a friend. S4 13B 6 port with Stage 2 street port and oil mods.       I'm going to be blowing black snot for the next week. God drat it. the spyder fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Mar 22, 2013 |
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Mar 22, 2013 20:23
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Man, FDs even come apart sexily. The little plastic fitting just snaps in. I made a "gasket" out of a glove finger and it held! It rained all last night and that side was dry. Maybe its time to goop it up with some RTV or just order a new one. The rest of the area needs some love though. I constantly hear about POR15 in AI its probably time for me to learn about it first hand
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Mar 22, 2013 21:17
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I've used Rust Bullet before. How's that vs por-15? All I know is that it took weeks to get Rust Bullet off of my hands.
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Mar 22, 2013 21:35
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You can buy a "starter kit" from Eastwood that has the prep chemical, some throwaway brushes and some POR15. I think it's slightly cheaper than buying everything separately. The New England crew swears by Chassis Saver as being much cheaper than POR but I've only ever used POR. Make sure you wear a respirator and gloves and ideally some thick clothes (it cures with moisture, so don't get it in your very wet lungs). Follow the instructions and don't paint directly out of the can (as a drop of sweat will ruin the entire can). And try to keep it out of places people might see. It's practically a high build primer and a pain in the rear end to sand.
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Mar 22, 2013 21:36
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parid posted:The little plastic fitting just snaps in. I made a "gasket" out of a glove finger and it held! It rained all last night and that side was dry. Maybe its time to goop it up with some RTV or just order a new one. I would not recommend it for this, Por15 is good at sealing/stopping rust. In this case, some scotchbrite/epoxy primer/paint would make more sense. Then again if you want to just slap something on it, use Por15. Make a gasket with RTV and you should be good to go. the spyder fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Mar 22, 2013 |
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Mar 22, 2013 22:22
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