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I loaned the S5 to a friend for some errand he needed to run to the boonies. He thought the gas pedal extension made a huge difference. When rev-matching a downshift, the tip-in response is pretty slow for the first couple cm, but after that, the motor revs so freely. Combined with the 5-speed's widely spaced gears, this thing must be fun to blip on a track where you can brake really hard and drop speed. The rotary is a cool motor 
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Mar 23, 2013 08:43
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Here's another vid of that 6-rotor RX-4. This time on a dyno. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3t3VcEIB-Q 813 horsepower, naturally aspirated, on pump gas, in a street legal 4. Crazy.
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Mar 26, 2013 00:35
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clutchpuck posted:Here's another vid of that 6-rotor RX-4. This time on a dyno. Awesome, but how exactly is it street legal? As far as I know, no 6 rotor engine was ever mass produced, so wouldn't they have to go though like some kind of federal certification process? Or is this just in some state that doesn't give a gently caress and plates anything with four tires?
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Mar 26, 2013 04:37
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Try New Zealand.
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Mar 26, 2013 04:39
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the spyder posted:Try New Zealand. Oh. Of course.
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Mar 26, 2013 04:41
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rotard posted:Are you planning on staying with the same R/E as current day rotary's, same / similar dishing? side or peripheral intake / exhaust? From a few pages back, but I have a couple of early rotary engineering-type books in PDF form on my site that might be of assistance as well: http://wright-here.net/cars/rx7/manuals.html#books (also service manuals, electrical diagrams, and parts fiches for RX-7s, 8s and a few earlier RXs. Sgt. Fox has most of the same on his site, I believe [foxed.ca], so think of mine as a back-up)
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Mar 28, 2013 00:34
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Do rotaries have the same low-RPM requirements when warming up from a cold start? What counts as low RPM? I've been trying to stay under 3k until the temp needle goes normal, but I used to do 2k, which was very luggy in 1st.
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Mar 28, 2013 03:34
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I was always told to keep it under 3k by Atkins & my local rotary guy ( 4kruzn racing ).
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Mar 28, 2013 16:30
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I was always told to stay out of boost, but it was better to warm the car up quickly and get it to temperature (to reduce the time cold) than it was to completely baby it and let it warm up slower.
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Mar 28, 2013 17:41
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The accelerated warmup system (AWS) keeps the revs up to about 3k for maybe a minute after starting, so I would think 3k would be a decent place to shift at while warming up. Staying out of boost is also a good idea. Generally I find my S5 TIIs warm up faster than any other car I've driven. I can't even get to the highway 5 blocks away before they warm up, unless its well below freezing.
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Mar 28, 2013 17:52
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I LOST ONE OF MY GODDAMN ROTORS
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Apr 2, 2013 01:21
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Since the idea wasn't shot down in the stupid questions thread guess it's time to start getting serious about buying a used rx8. Where is my best bet to shop for one with a budget of $12k and what should I expect out of one for that price?
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Apr 2, 2013 14:47
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:Since the idea wasn't shot down in the stupid questions thread guess it's time to start getting serious about buying a used rx8. Where is my best bet to shop for one with a budget of $12k and what should I expect out of one for that price? I got mine for about that much. Its a 2005 rx8 with 22k miles. There were a couple of minor scratches but everything was pretty much in decent working condition from the dealership. In terms of option it has cloth seats, bose stereo and that's pretty much it.
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Apr 2, 2013 15:10
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kcncuda71 posted:I got mine for about that much. Its a 2005 rx8 with 22k miles. There were a couple of minor scratches but everything was pretty much in decent working condition from the dealership. In terms of option it has cloth seats, bose stereo and that's pretty much it. You can easily find one for that much. Personal preference, I like the way the 04-08 looks more than the 09-11 models. I got an 05 with 60k miles about a year ago for $9k. You can probably find a low mileage 2005 manual shinka model in your budget and I think you'd be very happy. Just don't get an 04 or 05 automatic. And if you do get an 06+ automatic make sure to upgrade the torque converter and get a tune so you can use all of the power that's locked away behind the factory 7500 RPM limit on the auto.
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Apr 2, 2013 16:15
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kimbo305 posted:I LOST ONE OF MY GODDAMN ROTORS That's some bad mojo. Last time that happened to me, all of my 13b's bearings decided to return to their raw copper state.
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Apr 2, 2013 16:16
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kimbo305 posted:I LOST ONE OF MY GODDAMN ROTORS I hope that never happens to my keychain! It's my only good way of teaching people how rotaries work. How is it held together anyway?
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Apr 2, 2013 17:19
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SocketSeven posted:I hope that never happens to my keychain! It's my only good way of teaching people how rotaries work. Mine never spun that freely. I kroiled it up but still took huge fingernail effort to spin. Its apex seals tended to catch. The spinner on the back is just wider than the hole. It must be swaged or brazed onto the "eccentric" shaft.
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Apr 2, 2013 18:50
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Is the 2005 shinka the one that came in that beautiful black cherry paint job? I think I'll hunt one of those down.
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Apr 2, 2013 19:50
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kimbo305 posted:Mine never spun that freely. I kroiled it up but still took huge fingernail effort to spin. Its apex seals tended to catch. It's nice to know that they captured the feeling of being pissed at bad apex seals in a key chain.
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Apr 2, 2013 21:28
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How is the reliability and day-to-day liveability in the '09-11 RX-8s? Are you still unable to take them for a quick trip to the store for fear of loving up the engine? Are they still easy as hell to flood?
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Apr 6, 2013 15:57
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VERTiG0 posted:How is the reliability and day-to-day liveability in the '09-11 RX-8s? Are you still unable to take them for a quick trip to the store for fear of loving up the engine? Are they still easy as hell to flood? This isn't a problem with any RX-8s. It's a misconception. As long as you let the temperature gauge get past the first 2 lines you're fine. A quick trip to the store has never been a problem. Turning the car on, moving it two feet, and then turning it back off can be a problem. My startup procedure: 1. start the car 2. wait for the revs to drop to 1250ish before putting it in gear (takes about a minute) 3. drive, but keep it under 3000 until the temperature gauge is right in the middle (takes about 3 minutes to get to the middle) 4. drive like a dickhead and make lots of noise After about a minute (maybe two) of driving during step 3 the temperature gauge moves past the first two lines, meaning it's safe to turn off the car. I don't know if I need to be as careful, but I am. I've never flooded it myself, but a body shop did when they moved it into the paint bay and turned it off without letting it warm up. If you do accidentally turn the car off before it was warm and catch yourself doing it you can quickly restart it again and warm it up to prevent the flooding. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 16:24
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You can also hold the gas pedal all the way down when you start it which kills fuel should it be flooded. Says so in the owners manual. I can't be bothered to look up the exact page but it's in there.
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Apr 6, 2013 21:48
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I believe that's common to all Mazdas (and possibly FoMoCos), actually; my Protege does it for sure. Hell of a handy feature, lets you prime the oil system after an oil change too.
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Apr 7, 2013 04:08
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McTinkerson posted:You can also hold the gas pedal all the way down when you start it which kills fuel should it be flooded. Says so in the owners manual. I can't be bothered to look up the exact page but it's in there. What does that sound like? I flubbed my cold start (my car doesn't hold idle well in the cold) a couple times and was getting no firing. So I did the deflood procedure and got an awful racket when the starter turned. But the thing did fire up after that.
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Apr 7, 2013 05:06
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Fucknag posted:I believe that's common to all Mazdas (and possibly FoMoCos), actually; my Protege does it for sure. Hell of a handy feature, lets you prime the oil system after an oil change too. It's actually just an OBD-II thing as far as I'm aware, every car made after the mid 90s should do this. It's even called "Clear Flood Mode".
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Apr 7, 2013 05:15
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kimbo305 posted:What does that sound like? I flubbed my cold start (my car doesn't hold idle well in the cold) a couple times and was getting no firing. So I did the deflood procedure and got an awful racket when the starter turned. But the thing did fire up after that. Nah, that noise is something screwed up about the starter. Normally deflood sounds identical to normal starting. Whenever I botch a start, I get that starter noise too. I assume that the starter stops in a bad state and isn't happy when you try to start it again.
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Apr 8, 2013 18:12
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Flooding was also a bigger problem on the very early RX-8s. They ran super rich to meet CARB requirements, had a weak starter and RX-8 coils can go bad in under 30k miles. All of these things combined to make the rumors of it being easy to flood an RX-8. Any RX-8 that is in good health with all it's TSB's done (There is an upgraded starter covered under warranty as well as an ECU flash MSP-16) really won't have a flooding problem as long as you let it warm up to the point where the temp gauge climbs off C at all, as Gut said. What not letting the car ever warm all the way up CAN do, is turn your oil into a milkshake. I'm vague on how water gets into the oil, i think condensation, but if you let the engine warm up all the way the water burns off and you never have a problem. Once your oil has become a milkshake, you just have to change it.
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Apr 10, 2013 06:07
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Just dropped a 12mm socket down the drainage hole of the battery box in my RX-8. Tried to fish it out and pushed it out of reach. Continue fishing with a magnet or chewing gum? Or let it fall out on its own?
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Apr 23, 2013 20:25
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I hate losing tools, so I'd probably try to fish it out with a magnet (for hours if need be), but I also happen to have several high powered rare earth magnets sitting around. You'd probably have to weigh the risk of it coming out when you are diving down the road and doing some kind of damage. I imagine the risk is low if its a drain hole, but I haven't seen that particular part of a RX-8 in detail
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Apr 23, 2013 21:02
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I've asked a few other places, Sounds like the drain dumps behind the bumper and should fall onto the undertray or ground when it finishes rattling it's way wherever it's going. I'd try and recover the thing but since I've got a flat battery that's practically brand new, I just want the drat thing starting again. I pulled the battery and it's sitting on a 1 amp slow charger in a ventilated room. I figure I'll give it a few hours on the thing and give it another go. If it starts, time for a long drive. I suspect that my old car stereo capacitor is going bad and causing more parasitic draw then it should. Might be time to swap that out. There is nothing else that has the ability to drain the battery down to 9 volts while sitting around not in use (well, I'm pretty positive nothing else is broken that could be causing the draw.) Alternator puts out good voltage still, checked that when I put in the current battery. She must be angry at me for not driving her enough *sigh* Better go buy some new brake rotors and do that brake job so she'll stop being a moody pain in the rear end.  Edit: For the record, It appears that the hole in the drainage hole at the bottom of the battery box leads to a tube that exits in the mouth of the car, to the left of the radiator. You can see what looks to be a narrow ram air duct type thing on the left. I fear my socket is forever trapped in that tube because there is no way in hell I'm moving all the cooling hoses to fish out a socket from somewhere harmless, and the tube is too narrow for the socket to slide through. The magnet on a string has failed. SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 23, 2013 21:15
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you guys are going to love what I'm going to to do to my b2200 *foreshadowing*
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Apr 24, 2013 01:53
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FullMetalJacket posted:you guys are going to love what I'm going to to do to my b2200 12 rotor?
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Apr 24, 2013 02:58
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I found the rotor from my keychain on my floormat. Did not rebuild with titanoceramic apex seals before throwing it back in.
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Apr 24, 2013 04:40
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So I was was window shopping for a rx7, I should expect anything with over 100k miles to need a new engine soon?
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Apr 24, 2013 20:09
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Your Dead Gay Son posted:So I was was window shopping for a rx7, I should expect anything with over 100k miles to need a new engine soon? Depends on how well it was taken care of. My GSL-SE was around 140k when I sold it, and the engine still compression tested in the mid 100s. There is a guy a couple towns over that has a S4 engine with 200k on it. He's also gotten a S2 engine that blew at 80k. Chances are, if you put aside a couple grand for a rebuild, it'll run a long time just to spite you
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Apr 24, 2013 20:28
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Your Dead Gay Son posted:So I was was window shopping for a rx7, I should expect anything with over 100k miles to need a new engine soon? Need more info. Year, mods, ect.
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Apr 24, 2013 20:31
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Your Dead Gay Son posted:So I was was window shopping for a rx7, I should expect anything with over 100k miles to need a new engine soon? Boosted, probably already done once or will need it, naturally-aspirated will last as long as most piston engines provided that you beat on it every now and then.
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Apr 24, 2013 21:38
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Your Dead Gay Son posted:So I was was window shopping for a rx7, I should expect anything with over 100k miles to need a new engine soon? My '83 GSL had 180k when I sold it running. My '84 GSL-SE had 225k mi before it started mixing its oil and coolant.
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Apr 24, 2013 23:33
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Brigdh posted:12 rotor?
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Apr 25, 2013 01:00
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Your Dead Gay Son posted:So I was was window shopping for a rx7, I should expect anything with over 100k miles to need a new engine soon? My S5 NA has 221K miles on it. Runs great. Turbo IIs and FDs are another story.
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Apr 25, 2013 07:20
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