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Fo3 posted:Lots of rotaries were auto. My rx3 and many 1970s cars had a 3sp Jatco. The triple rotor cosmo was auto. The RX8 autos really aren't so bad if you do your spirited driving with tiptronic. There's no kickdown. All of the auto RX8s (even the unfortunate 4 speed model like I have from '05) have tiptronic and paddle shifters.
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Jan 15, 2013 23:14
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SocketSeven posted:My big problem with Tiptronics and autos in general has never been kickdown (Of course I've never driven an auto RX-8 hard), but the fact that when you let off the gas or downshift, the car just keeps coasting thanks to the torque converter. There's no way to engine brake properly at all. I just stick autos in D, and drive em like a granny. In 3rd and 4th there's definitely a very smooth coast but in 2nd it catches and slows down fairly well.
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Jan 22, 2013 19:19
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SocketSeven posted:Why would you sell that car for a dollar? Looks like there are a few parts in there that have some resale value. To show up near the top in "sort by price." It's not actually for sale for a dollar
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Mar 10, 2013 20:16
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kcncuda71 posted:I got mine for about that much. Its a 2005 rx8 with 22k miles. There were a couple of minor scratches but everything was pretty much in decent working condition from the dealership. In terms of option it has cloth seats, bose stereo and that's pretty much it. You can easily find one for that much. Personal preference, I like the way the 04-08 looks more than the 09-11 models. I got an 05 with 60k miles about a year ago for $9k. You can probably find a low mileage 2005 manual shinka model in your budget and I think you'd be very happy. Just don't get an 04 or 05 automatic. And if you do get an 06+ automatic make sure to upgrade the torque converter and get a tune so you can use all of the power that's locked away behind the factory 7500 RPM limit on the auto.
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Apr 2, 2013 16:15
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VERTiG0 posted:How is the reliability and day-to-day liveability in the '09-11 RX-8s? Are you still unable to take them for a quick trip to the store for fear of loving up the engine? Are they still easy as hell to flood? This isn't a problem with any RX-8s. It's a misconception. As long as you let the temperature gauge get past the first 2 lines you're fine. A quick trip to the store has never been a problem. Turning the car on, moving it two feet, and then turning it back off can be a problem. My startup procedure: 1. start the car 2. wait for the revs to drop to 1250ish before putting it in gear (takes about a minute) 3. drive, but keep it under 3000 until the temperature gauge is right in the middle (takes about 3 minutes to get to the middle) 4. drive like a dickhead and make lots of noise After about a minute (maybe two) of driving during step 3 the temperature gauge moves past the first two lines, meaning it's safe to turn off the car. I don't know if I need to be as careful, but I am. I've never flooded it myself, but a body shop did when they moved it into the paint bay and turned it off without letting it warm up. If you do accidentally turn the car off before it was warm and catch yourself doing it you can quickly restart it again and warm it up to prevent the flooding. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 16:24
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DD one and track the other one
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Apr 26, 2013 19:48
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SocketSeven posted:Finally. How do I get all this grime and poo poo off my hands? dish soap does most of it but my girlfriend wont let me near her with black fingernails. Paint your fingernails metallic green and she'll never be able to see what's under them.
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Jun 9, 2013 03:43
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How bad of a decision am I making? I'm looking for a convertible FC for a summer fun car. Bad choice? Should I get a miata or MR2 instead?
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Apr 21, 2015 21:06
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treizebee posted:An NA vert is a ridiculously great and enjoyable summer car. Thanks! Is the chassis similar enough that aftermarket suspension and the like is compatible with both the coupe and convertible? I'm hoping to make this a project car and try stuff I don't dare try on a car with a warranty.
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Apr 21, 2015 22:25
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Wow that's really informative. I'm not concerned with fast I just want something fun and interesting with an open top, and I miss the noise my old rx8 made. Plus I'm finding a bunch of them used from between $2000 and $4000. All really high mileage though so it's going to be a project. I think the project aspect of it will be more fun than an mr2 and miatas are so reliable that I probably wouldn't have much to do. Having learned how to drive manual (my rx8 was an automatic) I've really wanted to get back in a rotary and drive it properly. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Apr 22, 2015 |
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Apr 22, 2015 00:54
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Quite A Tool posted:Weren't all the convertibles automatic? Or am I just making that up. I'm seeing tons of manual convertible FCs in my search.
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May 16, 2015 14:17
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Cat Hatter posted:Well I'm not concerned with mileage too much since this would be a third car for when I don't feel like driving my Jeep, or if my wife doesn't feel like driving her Jeep. I'm just concerned by how many <$6000 RX-8s there are because for that price I would expect the engine to fall out on the way home. I promise this long post that looks like manual transmission elitism isn't manual transmission elitism. The automatic rx8 really is a bad car because it's basically half of an rx8, you get all the looks of the rx8 and some of the sound, but that's it. As a former owner of an automatic rx8 take my advice. Don't. Instead, but a manual one and learn on it on the drive home. It's not as hard as you think. It's how I learned when I traded my automatic rx8 for a manual FR-S. I'd never driven stick before. Within a week I was fine, within two I stopped having panic attacks when approaching hills. 2 years later I'll never go back to an automatic. Keys that helped me learn quickly: Having the clutch pedal pushed in takes the car out off gear so you will roll freely just like you are in neutral, so in case you didn't know how it worked, now you do. If you let off the clutch too quickly the engine will turn off and your car will stop. This is called stalling. It's going to happen a lot. It doesn't do any damage. If you stall at a stop light people will honk at you. gently caress them. Stay calm and restart the car. Eventually you'll stop stalling. The hardest part is setting off from a stop. You probably don't realize that you can set off from a stop with no gas. Go to a parking lot or empty street that's flat, hold in the clutch, put the shifter in 1st, start the car, and then extremely slowly lift the clutch pedal until the car starts to move. Note the feedback you get from the pedal like its slight change in resistance. This is where in the pedal travel the clutch is actually engaging and it's called the "bite point". Let the clutch out the rest of the way very slowly and you should be rolling at idle. Push the clutch back in, and use the brakes to slow to a stop. Now that you've done it in 1st gear, put the car into reverse and do the same thing. Do that a bunch of times to get a good feel for where the bite point is. It's all about feeling and will eventually become second nature. Once you are successfully backing up and going forward and generally looking like an idiot to anyone witnessing you doing this, it's time to add some gas pedal into the mix. Do the same thing but this time when you feel the car start to move add the tiniest portion of gas. I mean really slightly feather the throttle. Then try a little more. Eventually you'll get smooth. If you're on an uphill incline it's the same concept, just give more gas. Congratulations, you're driving a stick shift. While driving you'll need to shift gears to efficiently use the engine. This is the easy part. Compared to taking off from a stop this is a piece of cake. When it's time to shift push the clutch in, take your foot off the gas and coast, while holding the clutch in move the shifter to your desired gear, then slowly let the clutch out and put your foot back on the gas. If you're downshifting give it a blip of gas before pulling up your clutch foot slowly. This gives the engine some revs back because they dropped while your foot was off the gas and the clutch was disengaged. A little blip should be enough. As for when to shift, it's also all about feeling but when driving on the street it's pretty normal to shift at the following speeds; 1st gear: 0-10 mph 2nd gear: 10-20 mph 3rd gear: 20-30 mph 4th gear: 30-40 mph 5th gear: 40-50 mph 6th gear: 50+ mph. When you're on city streets you'll never go above 4th. You'll only use 5th and 6th on the highway. Those are not maximum and minimum speeds for each gear, those are just recommended shifting points for sensible driving. Spirited driving (which is actually good for the rx8) you'll shift at higher speeds. For spirited driving you'll pay attention to the noise the engine is making and the tachometer. It marks a red zone of "the rev limiter is about to cut in so you should probably upshift" Now if you read all that, that's really all you need to know. You'll get good at it and you'll kick yourself for waiting so long to learn because it's just too easy. Look at it this way: your grandmother knows how to do it. so can you. As for why to completely ignore an automatic rx8: its peak power is very low compared to the manual. Torque the same and this car is already low in torque as it is. The rev limit is low too. The way the automatic shifts gears is too conservative and can ruin an engine (rotaries need to be driven hard one in a while). The paddles for manual shifting are mere suggestions, rather than commands. It might downshift to the gear you selected a couple weeks later. It's slow, don't use it. Fuel economy is horrible in the auto. 12-15 mpg combined for me. The manual can get that low too if you drive hard all the time but at least with the manual you can shift to a higher gear sooner if you're wanting to save fuel. The 04s and 05s have 4 speed autos that REALLY suck. 06 onward had 6 speeds which were better, but still suffer from everything mentioned in this paragraph. TL;DR: don't buy an automatic rx8 because the auto is a legit bad car. Buy a manual and learn to drive stick with it. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 15:56 on May 17, 2015 |
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May 17, 2015 14:53
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I decided against the FC convertible, MR2, and Miata and instead when the new baby is done with rear facing seats just trade my car in for a used RX-8 R3.
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May 28, 2015 15:41
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GutBomb posted:I decided against the FC convertible, MR2, and Miata and instead when the new baby is done with rear facing seats just trade my car in for a used RX-8 R3. Well, I did it after all. I bought a '90 convertible. Even though the steering wheel barely clears my legs (I need to do something about that) I love it anyway. The blue interior is so deliciously 80s.
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Jun 28, 2015 22:08
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Sorry for the double post. I can't seem to find OEM FC seat brackets anywhere. All I find are ones intended for aftermarket seats. My driver's side one is absolutely destroyed by rust on the front left so it's basically like I'm driving while sitting in a rocking chair. Also I've got a weird coolant leak from around the oil pan that just showed up yesterday after adjusting the TPS. Oh and the TPS adjustment was completely trial and error. While adjusting the screw I'm supposed to see around 1000ohms on the multimeter but the most I ever saw was 70, so I must have been doing something wrong, or the sensor is bad and a new one is $450. I just ended up turning the screw left until my idle dropped to around 800 (it was around 2000) There's a lot of bucking at low rpm and on decel. I think I can adjust that out with the tps screw but I'm not sure. It definitely improved after the tps adjustment, but it could be better. Also lots of pops and crackles on decel. (I like that last part though, sounds awesome) Anytime off throttle, the check engine light is on. On throttle it's off. Until yesterday when out of the blue it stopped doing that and stayed off. Speaking of idiot lights, I'm not sure they are working correctly. the cluster of them is supposed to illuminate briefly when starting the car, right? Well only my brake one illuminates and that's because I'm parked with the ebrake on. So check engine may still be there but the light all of a sudden isn't working. The shifter is super sloppy. It has as much play in gear as my fiesta st has in neutral. Reverse lights don't work. high beams don't work. Driver's side mirror housing is broken. I've ordered a bunch of poo poo from mazdatrix that should alleviate all of the problems in this particular paragraph. Oh and the entire driver's side pinch weld and structural beams looks like this from wheel well to wheel well.  The rust is so bad that I am afraid to jack it up. I ordered a bendpak quickjack portable lift and it gets here next week. I'll take a video of when I lift it, in case it completely destroys the car. I've made a huge mistake. However:  It only has 99k miles, it sounds awesome, it's really nice to drive as long as the revs are kept above 2000, the top is new, the clutch is only 6000 miles old. I have 2 new seats waiting to go in. The interior is in perfect condition aside from the seats being beaten up. I love this piece of poo poo. I got such a deal on it that taking it somewhere to get the driver's side floor and structural beams cut out and reconstructed is acceptable, assuming it will cost around two grand to do that (which is a total guess, I really have no idea) GutBomb fucked around with this message at 13:19 on Jul 3, 2015 |
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Jul 3, 2015 12:44
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Larrymer posted:I think there's some computer module (BCM?) in the driver's kick panel that controls a lot of those lights up on the dash. Pretty common for that module to poo poo the bed, too. I replaced it when the brake lights were wonky on one of my dad's cars. I found some info on model specific forums for swapping it out. I know that's vague and probably not too useful, but might be worth looking into. Yeah I know what I need to do. Gotta take the Horn/light CPU out of the kick panel and that will fix the high beams and should fix some of the stuff with the warning lights. Basically I just have to resolder all of the solder points. Not too much work. Then I have to do the same thing with the warning light cluster. I pulled the warning cluster off last night the plastic surround bit simply shattered into a million pieces, much like the vent panel did when I tried to put a vent-phone mount thing on (ordered a new vent panel). 25 year old plastic has no give. Ordered a new one from Mazdatrix. Also have to do the resoldering trick to the wiper controls too to fix the wiper modes that are missing. I think the coolant leak is a worn line that goes by the oil filler neck. It explains why all the leaking coolant goes to that area. Other possibility is bad (rusted) freeze plugs. I was terrified that I had a blown coolant seal requiring a rebuild but the symptoms don't match up. I was able to find out what my check engine codes were. 17 and 18. Bad o2 sensor and bad throttle position sensor (I already knew that was bad). Ordered replacements and I'm going to put them in when they arrive. Pretty much everything wrong with it (except the rust and the fact that I can't find an oem seat bracket anywhere) is stuff I'm going to tackle in the next few weeks and the heap of poo poo will turn into a heap of golden poo poo. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Jul 6, 2015 |
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Jul 6, 2015 21:41
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Darchangel posted:Yeah, those plastics on the dash in the sun pretty much disintegrate. I used a multimeter and the resistance was way off at all positions so I got a new sensor. When it was time to remove the old sensor and put the new one on I found it's bolted with a 10mm bolt on the front so I removed that and it wouldn't come off. I felt around the bottom of the unit and found another bolt at the bottom. I took a look at it with a mirror and to my surprise it's not a bolt, but a Phillips screw with 1 inch of clearance underneath it. So at that point it's either remove the whole throttle body so I can get to the screw or get a ratcheting lateral screwdriver. I got a ratcheting lateral screwdriver. It stripped the screw. I was getting frustrated and hot (my garage doesn't have AC) at this point. I start looking for where the bolts are to pull the throttle body off and realized some of those weren't accessible without removing a ton more stuff. So I did what any sane person would do and returned the TPS to Amazon and sold the RX-7 at a loss and bought a 2013 Miata.
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Aug 20, 2015 05:07
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Darchangel posted:Well, given the rust, I can't fault that decision too badly. The running engine was worth a fair amount. I'd kind of like a 'vert myself, but in Texas, I'd only put the top down maybe for a month each in spring and fall, if I'm honest. It was an expensive lesson that I don't have the patience or desire to bring a crapcan back to life. I still have the extra set of seats (the nice set) and I was able to find some seat rails so I have those too for the driver's seat. If anyone wants these things and is in the Boston area I'd gladly let you take them for free. The seats are blue and have the headrest speakers in them.
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Aug 20, 2015 19:15
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Cat Hatter posted:Well the rest of the car was in surprisingly good condition and well equipped for the price and it's hard enough trying to talk my wife into an RX-8 instead of a Miata. I'll keep looking (and check how much a new motor would be). Probably around $3-5k plus shipping if you can't find it locally. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Aug 21, 2015 |
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Aug 21, 2015 20:20
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Every single "problem" thread on that site is answered with "did you replace the plugs and coils yet?"
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May 12, 2016 11:23
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