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Ferremit posted:Many people have tried over the years to cool 4wds with electric fans and every one of em has failed. Why do you think manufacturers like Toyota fit mechanical fans to literally every single 4wd they manufacture. That doesn't make any physical sense. The air doesn't care what is making the fan spin. You can move just as much air with an electric-powered fan as with a mechanical one. One possibility is that some manufacturers just cheaped out on an undersized motor to keep the electrical demand (and alternator) smaller. Choosing mechanical over electrical has to do with other issues besides just moving air.
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Apr 5, 2020 02:41
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Ferremit posted:Many people have tried over the years to cool 4wds with electric fans and every one of em has failed. Why do you think manufacturers like Toyota fit mechanical fans to literally every single 4wd they manufacture. Interesting. I keep seeing references indicating properly shrouded fans either mechanical or electric > unshrouded either too. One more factor in play I guess
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Apr 5, 2020 03:04
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No, ferremit is right. The issue is the electric motor has to fit in the center of the fan and between the rad and engine, so it's size limited. It's simply not possible to get the same cooling flow out of an electric in the space I have available that a simple viscous clutch fan can move. Hell, I know most of the guys from the King of the Hammers team #4643, an XJ with a really strong stroker 4.0 in the 4.6-4.9 liter range making IIRC north of 400hp. You know what they kept it cool with during KoH races? A ZJ fan clutch. Off rockauto. And a factory fan. And a factory 96-01 electric fan on the other half of the radiator. They literally spent thousands of dollars on every electric fan conversion kit on the drat market, one after the other, trying to make it work. Every one claimed to be an upgrade. Every one moved less air than stock. They actually put them in a wind tunnel and measured the flow produced *correctly* instead of with a dumb anemometer you stick in the flow (in the spot that reads highest, naturally) and then multiply by the fan area like fan ppl conversion kit sellers do. There's a reason I'm doing this. I debated not even mentioning it because I knew it would turn into a debate I've already played through ten times in my head, but I can't leave well enough alone  I'll never run a fixed mechanical fan because that's a stupid waste of horsepower up high, but viscous clutch fans move a crazy amount of air and I want to see what I can pull off with an electric controlled viscous clutch fan efficiency and airflow wise. If it doesn't work, back to a viscous clutch fan I go, I've wasted money on dumber experiments.
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Apr 5, 2020 03:13
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I remember CSB also had some experiments with changing out ("maintaining") the viscous clutch oil in his heap as well. Suspect a lot of them are simply not running as well as they once were from contamination.
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Apr 5, 2020 04:11
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kastein posted:No, ferremit is right. The issue is the electric motor has to fit in the center of the fan and between the rad and engine, so it's size limited. It's simply not possible to get the same cooling flow out of an electric in the space I have available that a simple viscous clutch fan can move. Hell, I know most of the guys from the King of the Hammers team #4643, an XJ with a really strong stroker 4.0 in the 4.6-4.9 liter range making IIRC north of 400hp. You know what they kept it cool with during KoH races? That's all super interesting actually, thanks for bringing it up! I've always assumed electric fan = better, but electric motors needing to be bigger in some cases and not fitting makes total sense. What are your opinions on electric water pumps and power steering?
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Apr 5, 2020 16:11
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A lot of new trucks still come with viscous fans. Apparently GM thinks they've gotten the reliability issue solved with the computer controlled viscous fan because my Canyon has one. Looks like that's a diesel-specific thing - the gas ones seem to be electric or electric + viscous. And yeah, the cooling available from viscous fans is pretty impressive. The fan in my TJ definitely moves more air than the Camaro fans in my C10, even at low engine speeds. I like electric power steering in general but when it comes to offroad trucks, I don't see it replacing hydraulic power steering anytime soon. I'd love to see an electric version of "ram assist" steering.
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Apr 5, 2020 17:02
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Applebees Appetizer posted:That's all super interesting actually, thanks for bringing it up! I've always assumed electric fan = better, but electric motors needing to be bigger in some cases and not fitting makes total sense. I mean, if electric water pumps work in racing, they are good. That's where I'd expect them to be fully stressed since you can actually use your full power constantly and the water pump flow requirements aren't dependant on vehicle speed, at least as far as I can think. I'm not sure I'd run one because I am running belt driven accessories anyways, but I can see them helping I guess? Another reason I don't think I will is I don't believe they're really designed for OEM service intervals at this point, and I don't wanna be in the middle of nowhere waiting days for a replacement water pump when every auto parts store in the town of 2500 I broke down in has 3 brands and a dozen units on the shelf for an OEM equivalent gen3 vortec water pump. Power steering, well, it's coming factory on a lot of cars now. It can't be all bad. I can't see using it on a vehicle with the front differential locked on big tires in a rocky area, but for most uses it'll be fine I would think. The other thing many people forget to take into account when going electric on accessories like this is the extra load they put on your electrical system. You need a hell of an alternator to support all that extra crap especially if you're gonna be using it at low speeds (needs extra cooling air and extra steering boost) with the engine practically at idle (results in lower alt output.) kastein fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Apr 5, 2020 |
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Apr 5, 2020 17:45
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kastein posted:They literally spent thousands of dollars on every electric fan conversion kit on the drat market, one after the other, trying to make it work. Every one claimed to be an upgrade. Every one moved less air than stock. They actually put them in a wind tunnel and measured the flow produced *correctly* instead of with a dumb anemometer you stick in the flow (in the spot that reads highest, naturally) and then multiply by the fan area like fan ppl conversion kit sellers do. I wanted to stay outta this, but eh. I want to know more about this controlled fan clutch, I've thought about throwing one from a 6.0PSD in my shitheap for a while. Will this give you the best of both worlds? there are running conditions where a fan override is really needed. I've done electrics, Taurus/mkVIII fans, volvo fans, bespoke electrics. in the dirt a clutch has its place. In the last rover there was a reason why I used a 5.3 LS clutchfan on it. The stocker, much less an electric couldn't keep the warmed over engine cool. The electrics do just fine under a light load. Put them under a heavy load in a heatsoaked enginebay and things go to poo poo righteously fast. Add in 120F ambient temperatures and sand, almost nothing is going to keep it chill. To get around this, radiators are relocated and supersized with larger e-fans like you see in prerunners and ultra4. Part the problem with off the shelf 4wds is the bullshit hanging out in front of the radiator, bumpers, winches, condensers, etc. Like others said, motors have to be small to fit, which means it's not going to spin a fan with an aggressive pitch. You need the volume here. I've tinkered with radiator sprayers (like a windshield washer jet or a porch mister) with good results in the desert. That with a electric would work. That with a selectable clutch fan, would be the best kind of overkill. The higher amp drawing fans would always cause voltage sag at idle causing the fan to move less air. They don't like mud or moon dust. The two major use cases I remember where elevated coolant tempertures presented was at high load low speed (sand and hill climbs) , and at high speed high load driving(lake beds, sand, highways) . the 5.3 LS fan that I ran on the rover would pull roughly 40hp off the engine, it made a noticable reduction in power when it and the aircon was engaged. There's a reason why heavy duty vehicles run switchable engine driven fans. The pitch and diameter can be pushed by no shortage of power which allow for designs that move more air. Seat Safety Switch posted:I remember CSB also had some experiments with changing out ("maintaining") the viscous clutch oil in his heap as well. Suspect a lot of them are simply not running as well as they once were from contamination. yup. Four years later it is still working fine. I vaguely recall 50cc of 10,000 cSt r/c diff fluid. you'll need to experiment with the clutch to find the right volume of fluid. E: electric cooling pumps can be pwm operated based on temperatures. That one aspect alone gives you greater control over the cooling temperatures and how long the coolant sits in the radiator or the block respectively. with a standard engine driven pump the thermostat controls that dwell time. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Apr 5, 2020 |
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Apr 5, 2020 17:57
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10 years down the line it’s going to be interesting to see what can be done for swaps with these newer electric-accessory engines like the Mercedes M256 I6s that don’t have any belt driven accessories.
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Apr 5, 2020 18:10
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I think that and the fact that modern vehicles are more and more going hybrid - when a hybrid motor-generator usually kicks out around 50hp or more and basically makes an alternator pointless - is part of how those kinds of accessory configurations can be supported, probably. For example the Prius hybrid drive unit has an HV-LV converter built into it that I believe charges the 12v accessory battery, and doesn't even have a starter motor. When you've got that kind of DC power availability, an electric cooling fan is a much smaller problem. E: some vehicles such as the V8 WJs use a hydraulic cooling fan, as well. Much more power than electric fans and more flexibility in mounting (and tighter duct clearances possible which increases efficiency markedly), but no mechanical-electrical-mechanical conversion losses. kastein fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Apr 5, 2020 |
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Apr 5, 2020 22:19
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kastein posted:
90s Lexus ES300s did this as well, operated by the power assisted steering system. I've also seen variants on heavy machinery
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Apr 6, 2020 03:24
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cursedshitbox posted:90s Lexus ES300s did this as well, operated by the power assisted steering system. I believe a fair whack of the LS400's did too, it was often a dilemma for people doing 1UZ swaps into hilux's was how to drive the fan
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Apr 6, 2020 04:51
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cursedshitbox posted:90s Lexus ES300s did this as well, operated by the power assisted steering system. Sure beats the cement mixer trucks I've heard of with a literal hole in the middle of the radiator where a shaft needs to go through it for some reason. I got my 1330 ujoint to Ford pinion flange adapters yesterday (pillaged a 90s explorer rear driveshaft, ten bucks each with usable ujoints!) as well as a set of fuel+evap lines and a vapor canister that I think will work. We'll see next time I get to the shop.
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Apr 8, 2020 04:24
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On the subject of electric power steering, my car has it as well as an AGM battery. I haven't had a car with an AGM battery before and found out the hard way that it's easy to over discharge them and when you do they behave strangely. Basically it would seem like my battery was dead, I'd jump the car and it would be fine for a while, then start having issues again. Once they're over discharged the alternator has trouble getting them back to a full charge so you have to use an external charger to restore them. This happened to occur while I was on the other side of the state for Christmas so I couldn't immediately do anything about it. The side effect was that I could keep the car running off the alternator but at low speeds the power steering drew too much and would cut out, causing voltage drop and playing hell with all the other electronics.
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Apr 8, 2020 04:53
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kastein posted:Sure beats the cement mixer trucks I've heard of with a literal hole in the middle of the radiator where a shaft needs to go through it for some reason. They run the hydraulic pump off the front of the crank, but it has to live out in the bumper for space reasons. Dunno why they dont just run a flywheel PTO like most other trucks? The drilling rig I used to run when i was doing geo sampling had a hole through the middle of a fuel tank for a PTO shaft. It was the dumbest thing I have ever seen because there was room on the side of the transfer case for a hydraulic pump to be mounted directly to the PTO!
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Apr 8, 2020 15:11
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drove my friends early 90s cherokee. what does this button do? 
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Apr 8, 2020 19:00
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That looks like a phone holder. There isn't normally a button there, I think some had a clock and some may have had warning lights, but I've never seen a button.
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Apr 8, 2020 19:19
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i have to say i admire that i think 1992 cherokee's minimalist interior. like honestly i like not having a bunch of crap. real weird to pull a knob to have headlights tho
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Apr 8, 2020 19:27
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Casual Encountess posted:i have to say i admire that i think 1992 cherokee's minimalist interior. like honestly i like not having a bunch of crap. real weird to pull a knob to have headlights tho Wait until you realize the 2001 still had that knob 
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Apr 8, 2020 19:28
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That looks like one of the mounts that come with the pop socket things my wife uses for her phone.
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Apr 8, 2020 20:25
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That's aftermarket and I've got no idea.
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Apr 8, 2020 20:34
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cakesmith handyman posted:That looks like one of the mounts that come with the pop socket things my wife uses for her phone. I grabbed a couple of Pop Sockets from work when we clearanced a few for $1. Then realized the dash mounts don't let you angle them. At all.  But that's not a pop socket mount. If it's a phone mount, it's magnetic.
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Apr 10, 2020 09:02
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cursedshitbox posted:90s Lexus ES300s did this as well, operated by the power assisted steering system. Didn't early V6 Camrys do this fuckery too? edit: GODDAMNIT EDIT BUTTON, GET AWAY FROM QUOTE. whatever, too tired to fix it.
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Apr 10, 2020 09:12
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Well. I haven't had a chance to work on the truck in a month now basically because I've been replacing my entire staircase on the house. Hopefully that will change soon. As for car stuff, my brother came by yesterday for more ranger work. We did a complete exhaust system on it (it failed inspection for exhaust leaks, everything was crusty as gently caress, muffler and midpipe had pinholes, cat had 4 cracks leaking exhaust, etc). Of course Ford in their infinite loving wisdom threaded the holes in the manifold collector flange and used bolts threaded in. They hid it in an impossible to reach spot too. Ended up slicing the plastic inner fender, flexing it out of the way, and using a sawzall to cut the factory bolts (which were naturally completely seized in place, and hardened, so 2 bolts ate like 4 sawzall metal blades) and then spent a few hours and a bunch of drill bits drilling through them. Rather than retapping the holes we chose to use ungraded through bolts putting it back in, going on my "it's going to seize up again anyways so make it easy to cut or twist off and put another 2 dollars in bolts on it" theory of future exhaust work. While welding the new muffler on I noticed that the rear driveshaft ujoint at the differential end was flopping around and missing most of its needle bearings, and he's driving it to Pennsylvania regularly, so welp, looks like that's getting done too. I couldn't find the spare Spicer 5-153x (fits basically every Jeep and ranger ever built) I keep in stock but luckily O'Reilly keeps them on the shelf. Luckily the driveshaft was out two years ago when we did the clutch so I knew the flange bolts wouldn't be too horribly stuck. So now he knows how to replace a ujoint. My arms are BEAT. Drilling grade 8 exhaust hardware out of collector flanges from under the truck at a lovely angle is terrible. Why can't those assholes just loving through-bolt it in the first place? kastein fucked around with this message at 02:24 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 3, 2020 13:19
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I failed at making a custom radiator mount for the Honcho (need to try another route, have to buy supplies) but I succeeded at hacking together a temporary rear driveshaft with schedule 40 pipe. 97 Dodge 1500 front driveshaft with 8 inches added in the middle (it's sleeved at least 2 inches past the weld on each end) and a 1330-1310 ujoint substituted for the factory 1330-7290 ujoint. Bolts right up to my hybrid np241cd and J20 rear axle. Also cleaned the shop halfway. It was a horrific mess, now it's half of a horrific mess.  Soon. At least it better be, because my hangar-mate is having his new to him CNC mill delivered and uh, we need to unload it. With the lift. The lift that my truck is parked in front of. gently caress.
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May 21, 2020 06:54
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Part of the fuel system is done now and I'm putting together the parts list for the rest. Also dropped the oil pan again to punch out the busted off oil dipstick tube (again) and put the new oil dipstick tube in (again) then filled it with oil. Spent some time theorycrafting about the exhaust and well, I have no loving idea how I'm going to get the passenger exhaust through without fouling the clutch slave, front driveshaft, or transfer case. Oh and shoveled out more of the shop. Another day or two of this and it might even be passable.
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May 25, 2020 07:31
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Honcho action! Sweet.
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May 25, 2020 14:30
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Does anyone want a free Bridgeport or a free 300 amp tig welder that doubles as a workbench and tornado shelter? Free to good home, please don't make me feel awful putting perfectly good (well, perfectly fixable) kick rear end tools on the scrap scale. Bridgeport is 3000lb, welder is 968lb and fills a small pickup. No I won't ship them. Hopefully doing the exhaust and the rest of the fuel system on the truck tomorrow. Maybe some wiring and the rad mounting too.
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May 26, 2020 04:21
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I have to ask a friend, he might be interested in the Bridgeport. Is there anything wrong with it? Other than being big. He'd need help getting it loaded onto his trailer.
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May 27, 2020 00:48
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Yeah, the head is locked up for unknown reasons. Not sure why, but it feels like someone moved a knob when they shouldn't have or a bolt fell off and landed in the wrong spot or something. I'd dick with it but I just don't have time. It's actually a sharp first hmv-h which is essentially a Taiwanese Bridgeport clone that's pretty well respected as I recall. Motor will run on 230 or 460 3 phase, a 100 dollar eBay Chinesium vfd will run it off 240 residential. The x travel is over 48in IIRC. It kills me to dump it but I'm not dragging it 3000 miles and I've bought most of the expensive parts to build a CNC machine anyways.
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May 27, 2020 00:58
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It appears that I took precisely zero pictures worth posting but: - best speedo gear out of my random junk bin of random VSS housings and gears is in and speedo cable connected (it's got 35s and 3.73s right now but it's getting larger tires and 5.13s soon, so I'm not wasting 45 bucks on a speedo gear I'll only put like 100 miles on, the 30 tooth I had is close enough to 28) - slapped a random junk front driveshaft in and held it up to the front diff pinion to verify if it will smash the clutch slave cylinder or exhaust (looks like I have at least 5ish inches of uptravel before it contacts? I guess I'll find out) - Futzed around with the clutch hydraulic line, finally exited analysis paralysis on it and decided to just dive in. Hooked it up at the slave end, found a great routing for it that uses one p clip to the back of one head and another to the firewall. It looks drat near factory aside from the custom splice at the master end, which is pretty decent for a '93 diesel k3500 hydraulic line bolted to an '03 gas g3500 engine, an '81 4cyl CJ master cylinder, and a 79 J10 chassis. I'll take what I can get at that point. Had to use a piece of 1/4 cunifer line, a 1/4 invert flare nut with 7/16-24 threads, and a 5/16 to 1/4 compression fitting to make it all happen. (The compression fitting is actually on order currently as I had ordered a 1/4 to 1/4.) - ran the rest of the fuel lines, upped my binky score by making a  STAINLESS STEEL bracket for the fuel line clip that was bouncing off the side of the trans. Still need to mount the pump, evap canister, and filter but it's otherwise done fuel wise- chopped the factory g3500 downpipes up into a billion pieces, welded some of them back together. I have the passenger downpipe and crossover tube done as far as right before it joins the driver downpipe. Why am I using the factory piping? Well it was free with the engine and it's actually really nice quality, mandrel bent 3 inch (iirc) heavy gauge tubing that doesn't appear to rust very much at all even after 17 years in New England. Good enough for me. - hosed around with the air intake tube and filter but don't like how I have it. I guess I'll mess with it more. Oh then I realized it was 530am and I should probably head home. Whoops.
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May 28, 2020 12:22
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The CNC machine got delivered Thursday. He ended up renting a forklift to unload it. A 5k forklift. The "6k" machine turned out to be 6500lb. I was asleep having just pulled an allnighter, so I had no idea this was going down, but pictures are here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/FU.OSHA/permalink/3299125870111372/ They somehow got it down to ground level on some 6x6 cribbing without dropping it. Yesterday we got it lowered onto some heavy steel pipes and rolled it to its final location, half rear end leveled it and wired up the phase converter temporarily to test it out.  Hopefully wiring it permanently tomorrow afternoon. Then I spent the rest of the night finishing the Honcho exhaust past the drivetrain. It dumps right behind the transfer case now. I'm gonna see what a GM van tailpipe and muffler will cost me tomorrow but they won't be installed till the new rear axle is in, since the shocks and diff will be in different places then.  12 separate pieces and way too much time fitting and tacking and grinding. This thing is gonna be loud for a while. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Jun 1, 2020 |
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Jun 1, 2020 01:40
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Jesus, yeah. A 5k forklift if also rated to 5k with the load center 24" from the back of the forks, not out over the front by 24". That's the same model fork lift thati own, and... Yeah. Sketchy as gently caress. Call a rigging company for Christ's sake, or at least a flatbed wrecker. Glad you got it in place, and God help you if anything in the control breaks, I can only imagine how you'd fix it. Very neatly, with better parts than own, and likely several upgrades. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Jun 1, 2020 |
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Jun 1, 2020 13:38
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The center of gravity is actually rather annoyingly far back in this machine, it's somewhere around the front of the control cabinets. It was definitely still too far forward though. It made our lives difficult getting it onto the rollers but wasn't bad past that point. The controls on this thing are hilariously obsolete. It's not mine to hack up but he's already built one homebrew CNC and is an electrical engineer too, so I'm sure he'll figure it out. The hardest part will be finding documentation and schematics because it didn't come with any and is likely too old for the manufacturer or importer to have anything of use, if they even exist anymore. From what we determined it appears to have standard digital quadrature encoders on all axes except the spindle (which has a resolver) and regular old 3 phase drive motors, so aside from more pain in figuring out the cabling and pinouts, it shouldn't be hard. Literally everything on the control panel would likely get replaced with a 19in monitor and an embedded system or laptop. I'm a big fan of ACS Motion Control drives, but it's his machine so it'll probably get more typical +10/-10 servo drives and emc2/linuxcnc.
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Jun 1, 2020 14:08
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new subpanel is installed, #8 feed pulled and wired, mill and phase converter installed and wired permanently, mill tested and running. No coolant yet but we got the tool changer going today and put most of the coolant pump and reservoir back together. All the fire-hazard cabling that had been freaking me out forever is now deenergized and removed. I guess I need to learn g code now. Anyone got a good beginners intro for dummies?  Oh, I finished plumbing my clutch hydraulics and attempted to bleed them as well, but it's an annoying one and I ran out of fluid. And filled the tcase. And got a stock g3500 muffler and tailpipe at the junkyard to use as donors so I can hear myself think while driving this thing. Left before it's drivable: Bleed clutch Wiring, tuning A little of the fuel system (some depends on the mill, the rest on parts arriving tomorrow or Friday) Cooling system (depends on the mill most likely) Front driveshaft if I'm feeling adventurous Ideally, a tcase shifter, but that's really optional Would have done more, but I was helping wire and set the mill up till nearly midnight which cut into truck time.
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Jun 4, 2020 09:44
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kastein posted:The CNC machine got delivered Thursday. He ended up renting a forklift to unload it. Holy OSHA fucksticks. Those are some brave/stupid/cheap motherfuckers unloading it. How old is that fucker anyway?
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Jun 8, 2020 10:07
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Manufactured in 1985. We're gonna cut some Jeep parts on it tomorrow hopefully. Wooden ones first for testing purposes then metal and plastic. Don't have the rs232 dripfeeding cable made yet so it'll be hand-entered G code on the archaic MDI terminal, should be interesting to see how it goes.
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Jun 9, 2020 01:23
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First we worked on getting more electrical wiring done. Put up 30ft of conduit and a few light boxes plus the cabling and such for more ceiling lights, since the lighting in the hangar sucks bad. Then we booted the CNC machine up and scratched our heads for quite a while. It's pretty weird, certain G commands one would not expect to be modal are, and vise versa. Anyways we figured all the weirdnesses out that would affect this project and test-cut a part from plywood, pattern came out right so next time we'll cut the holes in the fuel cell with it. I still need to complete my G code (or at least the drawing of the part, so he can write the code, he's way better with G code than me) for the fuel sender adapter part so that can't get done yet. I managed to get the clutch hydraulics bled by fabricobbling a pressure bleeder. Due to the angle the line runs at, it really didn't want to bleed the regular way, but it bled well (after I sprayed myself with aerosolized brake fluid multiple times with my homebuilt abortion of a pressure bleeder) and the clutch disengages great now with good pedal feel. Filled the tcase the rest of the way, too. So now all the drivetrain components that are capable of holding fluid (not the cooling system yet...) are filled, and I have fewer things to try and remember to do before driving it dry and destroying stuff. Then it was time to do some sheetmetal work. I've been dreading installing the PDC for a while because I wasn't really sure how I was going to go about cutting the inner fender to match the PDC mounting plate I made with a coworker last year. So, well, I dove in and went for it. Used my laser level to draw a vertical line on the inner fender where I wanted the front face, sharpied it. Marked a few reference points at right angles to that and in the correct spot, then lined up the laser level again and sharpied that too. Repeat for the bottom plane. This was necessary instead of just stretching tape across it because it's a weird contoured stamping not a flat surface, and I want it to fit really well so I don't have to fill a bunch of gaps with weld. Deep breath and... get out the deathwheel. No turning back now.  First rust repair in place. The second can wait till this PDC mounting project is done.  Set the (brake bent) PDC mounting plate into the opening, got it aligned just how I wanted it and sharpied everything that needed to be cut off. Then cut it all out, taking into account sheetmetal thickness.  I'm taking frenched features back from the mini truckers, ok? Bet none of them have a frenched PDC!  Almost sorta kinda looks like it belongs there.  I didn't finish welding it in since I was tired of breathing jeep drivetrain scunge mixed with road grime and set on fire, but it's in place and the fitment came out quite nicely. So I guess that's that until next time. Hope to finish the hangar light wiring, machine at least one thing with the mill, finish welding this in and ideally get started on the radiator mounting or EFI wiring next time.
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Jun 15, 2020 07:23
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White MJ has been intermittently failing to start since last fall. Eventually it stopped running entirely. I surmised it was a fuel pump for several reasons. Luckily I had a spare Bosch I bought for the blue MJ in 2018 (and then ended up using a spare used one in it instead for some reason - can't remember why) and since the white one has had a backwards fuel gauge since 2010 due to me installing a renix sender unit, I took the opportunity to get the spare HO sending unit ChrisGT pulled for me (in 2012? 2013? Too long ago) and install the new pump on that, then put it in the white MJ. Tore the old fuel pump apart. It's rare I see a DC motor in this rough shape. I'd say I got every mile out of it.     It runs again! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2w04L9bMeiQ
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Jun 16, 2020 04:03
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That fuel pump motor is roached. It did its time. I've never seen one that worn. I said it on snapchat and i'll say it again, that PDC mount looks so good.
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Jun 16, 2020 04:44
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