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Got out to the hangar for a day on Friday. Mostly cleaning and reorganizing, but also got in some lathe time since my friend I share the place with got it working, and worked on my d70/d60 hybrid axle build for the Honcho. D60 kingpins are famous for being a bastard to remove on rusty axles. They're torqued to 650 foot pounds from the factory and the bottom of the threads is exposed to the elements, a recipe for extremely stuck things. Especially when you cut the knuckles off of the donor axle without removing them first... Hell, people break 7/8 Allen wrenches off in these things and pull their trucks off jackstands trying to get them out. Even with O/A torches. So I figured I'd give a trick I heard about on pirate4x4 a try. Not much to lose, right? Boom. Out.  The magic:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgRNwSYyh_Y The magic is that you zip the kingpin with a cutoff wheel about down to the diameter of the threads, just above the surface of the knuckle. Then whack it with a hammer to bend the sliver of metal remaining up and break the rust in the threads. Then... You spin it out with a small pipe wrench or your hands. Save the blood, sweat, and tears for torquing the new ones down, you'll need it. Once I had the kingpins out, the knuckles would clear the ways on the lathe, so it was time to cut the welds holding them to the tubes and press the tubes out.  Shop is actually cleaner, though it doesn't look like it. You can walk through it now without being an acrobat. That's a huge improvement.   Next time I need to finish cleaning and get the other knuckle pressed off the tube, it was a total bastard and wouldn't come off. Also need to buy more lathe tooling now that I know what I'm short of, and finish setting up the lift and electrical. Oh, and I bought a 24v Cummins for the 5 ton, and am buying the flywheel, starter, flywheel housing, and clutch parts I need for it sometime this week. Need to get some parts to make it run (ECU, maybe IP, turbo, oil pan, after checking the engine over to find out if it's worth using) and a bellhousing and input shaft for the trans and I can start building the drivetrain for it, too. Too many drat projects, not enough time. I need to win the lottery.
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Dec 31, 2017 18:47
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I meant to ask you what the deal with the kingpins was on snapchat and then forgot, that's a seriously cool trick I'll have to file away for later use.
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Dec 31, 2017 19:04
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I'm sure it will work on other tight-as-gently caress fasteners too. Just not if the bolt is stuck because the shank's held tight by corrosion, like AC compressor bolts on an XJ or lat link bolts on Subarus for instance. Need to be careful not to cut so deep it shears off, but that's about it.
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Dec 31, 2017 20:19
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You casually mentioned a 24V Cummins... Hardly a casual purchase. What'd that run you?
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Jan 1, 2018 00:04
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Five hundred bucks. Mostly complete. The reason it's so cheap is the seller claimed he got it in trade for a turbo and had no idea what was inside. It might be blown up, it might be good. I rolled the dice on it and figured I can part it out for a couple hundred after using it for mockup if it turns out to be junk. Cummins engines rarely sell for under a grand unless they're unknown or bad, figured I couldn't lose too badly.
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Jan 1, 2018 01:32
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kastein posted:The magic: That's a very steady hand with the cutoff wheel. Good job.
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Jan 1, 2018 02:46
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angryrobots posted:That's a very steady hand with the cutoff wheel. Good job. It took me up until this post to see what the magic was. I thought that was a washer 
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Jan 1, 2018 13:04
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Beach Bum posted:It took me up until this post to see what the magic was. I thought that was a washer LOL same here, great trick.
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Jan 1, 2018 13:40
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kastein posted:Five hundred bucks. Mostly complete. The reason it's so cheap is the seller claimed he got it in trade for a turbo and had no idea what was inside. It might be blown up, it might be good. I rolled the dice on it and figured I can part it out for a couple hundred after using it for mockup if it turns out to be junk. If it's only mildly blown up, the block and head are easily worth that much. Cp3 or 4?
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Jan 1, 2018 17:31
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I have no idea actually  . What's the difference?Edit: this is a 53 block (uncracked as far as I can tell) with a vp44 pump, no cp3 or cp4 for me. angryrobots posted:That's a very steady hand with the cutoff wheel. Good job. Thanks. I burn through about a hundred cutoff wheels a year so I get way way way too much practice. The drat knuckle kept tipping over on the shop floor or it would have looked nicer actually, but I didn't really care because it's going in the scrap bin. Just wanted to get as close as I could to the surface without cutting into the knuckle. kastein fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jan 1, 2018 |
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Jan 1, 2018 19:20
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kastein posted:I have no idea actually Ah. That's too bad, because the P-pump was good, and the CP3 was good. The VP44 wasn't. It doesn't like ULSD fuel, and can't handle air in the fuel at ALL. It might be worth installing it to make sure the motor runs, then switch to CP3. Or install a good lift pump to make sure it never goes dry. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Jan 1, 2018 |
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Jan 1, 2018 19:32
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I have no idea if this vp44 even works, TBH. My current plan is: - pull pan, check rod and main bearings. If junk, part out - pull valve cover, check for damage, part out if hosed - go to a newly opening junkyard in the spring that a friend of a friend says has old 6bt buses from his work in it. Pull everything needed to make a 24v p-pumped and/or spare vp44 and ECU and turbo and throttle pedal (since I don't have an ECU or turbo or pedal...), Try to make it run. If vp44 is good, either sell the extra and p-pump stuff or swap to p-pump and sell extra parts. If all else fails I'll sell all the good parts and drop a 12v in after using this for mockup. I've decided to roll the 53 block dice if the engine is good. It doesn't weaken the block, it just leaks coolant, so I'll stick a coolant level sensor in the overflow tank and if it starts eating coolant, fix the crack or drop another engine in when I get tired of filling it back up.
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Jan 1, 2018 22:05
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Only 3.5 years after buying the trans for the 5 ton, I'm finally researching how to connect it to an SAE#2 flywheel housing and clutch instead of an SAE#1 flywheel housing and clutch, since I just bought all the SAE#2 clutch stuff off a 4bt. (No one makes SAE#1 stuff for the B series engines.) http://www.canadawideparts.com/downloads/catalogs/eatonroadranger_RTO-14615.pdf Looks like I need an Eaton A-3721, A-3722, or A-3723 clutch housing. Trying to find the input shaft and stuff I need next, since the original is hashed and is a 2in spline and 1.125 pilot while the clutch I have is 1.375 spline and 1in pilot. This standardized stuff is weird...
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Jan 14, 2018 19:43
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kastein posted:This standardized stuff is weird... Of all people, I thought you'd take extreme comfort in the standardization. Seeing this and your posting on Sloppy Mechanics has taught me things I'll never even consider using, but am glad to know.
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Jan 16, 2018 07:33
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The problem is, it's standardized but it's so widely known to be standardized that everyone in the industry only publishes the info they need to know what to buy, and I have all the other info because I don't know what matters, so for example it took me several hours to figure out that this flywheel is for a standard "14 inch" (not kidding) clutch, even though I had the exact info on the pressure plate bolt pattern. And several more hours to figure out that the standard input shaft pilot tips are 25mm and 30mm, and there are only two pilot bearings and they each fit one of those to a 62mm bore in the flywheel. There are also pull and push clutches (same as there are on cars, pull clutches are dumb imo but enable you to install a clutch brake, which is really nice to have with an unsynchronized first gear) and don't even get me started on input shaft splines. At least they only use a couple instead of a million types like cars. Oh, and different bellhousings for push and pull clutches with above and below centerline linkages. I need to check what I have now that I think about it... I can't wait to spend 500 to 1300 on a clutch kit 
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Jan 16, 2018 19:57
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kastein posted:The problem is, it's standardized but it's so widely known to be standardized that everyone in the industry only publishes the info they need to know what to buy, and I have all the other info because I don't know what matters, so for example it took me several hours to figure out that this flywheel is for a standard "14 inch" (not kidding) clutch, even though I had the exact info on the pressure plate bolt pattern. And several more hours to figure out that the standard input shaft pilot tips are 25mm and 30mm, and there are only two pilot bearings and they each fit one of those to a 62mm bore in the flywheel. So, what you need is to befriend a medium/big truck mechanic who can rattle off all this stuff when you need it. Or find the right person at a parts depot, I guess. Always fun adventuring into a related, but wholly unique world.
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Jan 17, 2018 18:52
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kastein posted:The problem is, it's standardized but it's so widely known to be standardized that everyone in the industry only publishes the info they need to know what to buy, and I have all the other info because I don't know what matters, so for example it took me several hours to figure out that this flywheel is for a standard "14 inch" (not kidding) clutch, even though I had the exact info on the pressure plate bolt pattern. And several more hours to figure out that the standard input shaft pilot tips are 25mm and 30mm, and there are only two pilot bearings and they each fit one of those to a 62mm bore in the flywheel. Thats about what im going to be spending on a clutch kit for my landcruiser sometime in the next few months. Not gonna push my luck with a 330K kms old factory clutch in a heavy 4wd in the desert again in July!
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Jan 19, 2018 02:22
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Just realized I should probably put some pictures in here at some point or people will get bored of the walls of text This is the kind of motor mount it's set up for. Anyone know where I can buy these new? They didn't come with.  Tag on the 15 speed overdrive trans I got for it years ago.  Bellhousing dimensions tell me this is an SAE #1 housing.  Input shaft is a hair under 1.125 pilot tip. Turns out to be a 1.18"/30mm standard size. Fits a PB-206SS pilot bearing.  2in 10 spline standard input shaft for OTR trans.  Bellhousing I bought (I knew I didn't need it, but the price was the same either way, I'll flip it on eBay or CL) is an SAE #2...  Clutch from the 4bt is a 1.375 10 spline for MDT class... 1.25, 1.375, 1.5, and 1.75 are all available for those classes of transmissions.  Pilot bearing from the 4bt is almost 1in - turns out to be a 25mm standard, PB-305SS.  Managed to get the other Dana 60 knuckle off!  Soon. Ordering lathe tooling so I can make axle tube pieces and weld this poo poo all together.  350mm/14in standard MDT class pressure plate. Confirms what I had figured out, which is good.  Casting number for the flywheel. Apparently this is used for both B and C series flywheels, but looking it up got me the size, ring gear tooth count, etc I needed.  Ring gear number. 173 tooth for a B series Cummins. I could get used to this semi standardized stuff.  Flywheel housing, starter, mounts  Useless clutch housing  Of this pile I might use the flywheel if it can be turned. The rest I'll either turn in for core, sell, or scrap.  Oh and... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2aFc6rQERE I need to adjust and tighten the cables, maybe replace them, get some replacement parts, clean and grease a bunch of stuff, bolt it to the floor the rest of the way, hook up the power properly, and put the apron plate over the frame, and it's ready to use 
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Jan 19, 2018 02:59
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Wait hold on. What is this solid concrete ground youre posting from?
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Jan 19, 2018 15:35
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That's in the hangar me and my buddy Jack share at a semi local private airport he manages. It's basically a two person hackerspace at this point. Sadly we only have another year or maybe two there before we get booted, a Chinese company just bought the place and is turning it into a helicopter school. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Jan 19, 2018 |
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Jan 19, 2018 18:44
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Well I went to finish fixing my brother's Ranger Saturday evening. Expected it to be a quick easy clutch job since I'd pulled everything except the pilot bearing and clutch/flywheel poo poo off previously so it should have just been 15 minutes of unbolting garbage and then clear sailing bolting all new parts on. Little did I know. Started work around 9pm. Around 3am it was finally ready aside from clutch bleeding. That's easy poo poo! Yeah... around 7am I was hoarse, I don't know how the neighbors didn't call in a noise complaint, and we took it for a test drive only to have the battery and wipers quit. Oh well, he can handle that, the hard part is done. So I hit the road. It's bright as gently caress and I feel alert so I just drove. Took a nap at one point, then 15 minutes later woke up as I crossed a rumble strip headed for a guardrail on i495. Fortunately I didn't die or cause any damage to anything except my shitbox, which is totaled but driveable. Rest in piss silver Forester, you got what you deserved. Another half second warning and I probably would have stayed off the guardrail. The dashcam video ought to be interesting when I get around to pulling it. A junkyard offered me 225 and I don't really have that much into it and hate that car like no other, so I'm not really bent out of shape about it just annoyed I have to find time to register another shitbox and drag it out of maintenance debt. Oh well. Never driving tired again. The replacement is likely a light yellow/goldish 2001 Forester, to replace the silver 2001 Forester  I hate Subarus but they sure do make decent beaters if you don't mind keeping a spare engine on hand.
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Jan 23, 2018 21:16
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Holy poo poo. Glad you're still with us.
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Jan 23, 2018 21:19
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Glad you're okay. While it may seem like they are, Subarus are not self-stopping.
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Jan 23, 2018 22:08
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Geeze! Saw the poo poo about the clutch on FB. Glad you didn't expire. At least it was a car you didn't care much about. I've driven tired and scared the hell out of myself, fortunately managed to not smack anything/one. Do not recommend, avoid at all costs.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:19
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Glad you're OK. I gave up on driving tired a few years ago. I'll just pull over and catch 15 minutes of sleep if I'm starting to get "there". I've had a bunch of close calls.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:45
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Holyshit! Glad you're ok.
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Jan 24, 2018 02:39
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kastein posted:Never driving tired again. Dang man, glad you're unscathed, I need my future honcho updates! Didn't something similar happen when you were driving the 5ton back years ago?
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Jan 24, 2018 02:46
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Dang man, glad you're unscathed, I need my future honcho updates! Didn't something similar happen when you were driving the 5ton back years ago? If you fell asleep in the 5ton we'd hear about it on national news.
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Jan 24, 2018 02:58
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Yes, but 3 truckers realized what was up and boxed me in then slowed down until the bucking engine shook me out of highway hypnosis. This was deeper sleep than that, like I was actually asleep not just halfway there. I have had a few other close calls when I was still commuting crazy miles but never this bad. It hasn't been an issue since I have a better commute now, this was the first time I'd had to drive tired in like 6 months. No more. I just bought the replacement shitbox. It's not home yet but will be in a few days. Paid 400, it is at least 175 dollars nicer than the current wreck. In fact it's actually nice aside from the fact that the rear of the unibody will be gone in two years, like all of them Guess I need to get my poo poo out of the old one and pull some parts, then call the wrecker. This one's so worn out I doubt it's worth cutting up like the last one.
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Jan 24, 2018 04:06
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Ken please don't die. I need Jeep advice.
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Jan 24, 2018 04:47
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I try not to die. Advise: Buy all MJs, FSJs, CJs, and YJs within range
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Jan 24, 2018 04:54
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Yikes. My closest call was after prepping a time attack car for an event when I was working at two different shops. Worked all day friday at one place then went to get an evo ready for the weekend race and was up all night. Finally at like 7am it's tuned and we head to the track. Just going to the highway I almost went through a red light, but that shocked me enough into staying awake the rest of the drive there. No break time all day sat because the car is not cooperating, blowing off IC hoses, finally we get some clean laps and it comes back in overheating. Robi and I are like gently caress it, you RRE guys can deal with it right now because we need some sleep. That was probably the worst thing I've ever done behind the wheel because I was falling asleep in traffic up I15 over cajon pass. But, made it back and got some sleep. Car was hosed btw- melted a hole through the fancy cosworth head because the driver never bothered to look at the gauges in an 800hp race car meant to do 1 lap at a time. Still pissed because I put so much work into the car and it never got to run at it's full potential. Every event was troubleshooting and fixing poo poo previous shops had done, then that happened, then the owner got in some trouble. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:24 on Jan 24, 2018 |
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Jan 24, 2018 06:39
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Driving while tired is no joke. I've fallen asleep on a 10 hour road trip once (thankfully not alone; friend in the passenger seat grabbed the wheel while smacking the poo poo out of me when we hit the rumble strips), and once while driving home after an 18 hour shift (ran a red light half awake, horns woke me up, somehow made it through a busy intersection). I've been really loving lucky. Glad you're okay man. And if you can send some of those <$500 running and driving cars my way... that'd be great. The Saturd is pretty worn out.
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Jan 24, 2018 08:13
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My sleeping on the drive home story: Totaled a Focus with about 24000km (Maybe 4 months old?) on it. What' s funny is the fact that the way you described waking up was visceral enough to make me gasp in sympathy, been there man. I rolled my car. A few days later I had a small panic attack when they showed the in-car of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJ9uWsvR1l0
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Jan 24, 2018 08:22
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That poo poo is terrifying. Glad you're okay, Ken. I used to have that problem on long road trips, and made it a standard. When I starting getting too sleepy, I have a nervous tic of running a hand down my face. If it happens three times, I pull over and sleep, because the fourth will just be me nodding off.
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Jan 24, 2018 12:51
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Well, I bought the replacement. It's at least 175 dollars nicer than the totaled rotten pile of trash I had. Turns out it likely just has engine management issues (idles like poo poo, bogs and misfires badly) or maybe the guy didn't time it right. Betting on the latter. Going to mess around with it tonight. Anyone got a list of 98-02 Forester parts that are small, easily removed, don't stop it from running and driving and sell well on eBay? I'm gonna pull most of the good poo poo before junking it.
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Jan 26, 2018 16:42
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If it's not leaky, pull dat power steering pump and loop the remaining lines. Those shits are always leaky and expensive.
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Jan 26, 2018 19:58
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Technically brake rotors and calipers match the first 2 requirements. (You never said drive safely)
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Jan 26, 2018 20:16
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It has to stay driveable, we're taking it dirt road bashing this weekend after I rip everything I want except the battery out of it. I'm thinking things like the overhead console clock, rear wiper motor, etc that always fail and are hot items to sell on eBay.
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Jan 26, 2018 22:03
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Instant rally car, just add highway somnia. Seriously though, glad you're ok.
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Jan 27, 2018 01:39
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