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Luisfe posted:Aw man, I accidentally dropped my favorite pen, and now the nib is bent to all poo poo. God drat it. Post pictures. If it's a newer pen you can probably find a replacement nib easy enough since everything these days comes from the same 2 or 3 nib makers. QuiteEasilyDone posted:I think it's something with my batch of HoD. It seems to want to run down the tines on my other pen as well. Noodler's inks are infamous for nib creep. It's probably something to do with Nathan Tardiff's special blend. I have a few pens I won't use Noodler's in (including my Namiki Falcon) because the nib creep looks "wrong." Hello! I own 45+ fountain pens of various styles and ages. My collection is mostly vintage with an emphasis on vintage flex and British makes. I'm still hunting for a good full-size 52 (though I have two 52 1/2Vs that please me). ChickenOfTomorrow fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Jun 27, 2013 |
# ¿ Jun 27, 2013 07:14 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 06:26 |
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But if you want to split hairs, Zhivago is only partially-bulletproof - the black component is permanent but the green isn't. Is stylos.se officially closed now, or are they still selling off their stock before closing? They had good prices on Rohrer & Klingner, even if you factored in shipping. I like Iroshizuku because of their vibrancy and R&K because the majority of their inks are easy to clean. (Apart from the Esterbrooks most of my vintage pens are a pain in the rear end to clean because they're lever-fill, so a bulletproof ink is going to triple my work. Esterbrooks don't count because you can just remove the renew point to get to the sac.) [Edited because I can't spell Iroshizuku.] ChickenOfTomorrow fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Jun 27, 2013 |
# ¿ Jun 27, 2013 19:24 |
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Rodney Chops posted:I will try a bottle of Iroshizuku next. I have a technical desk job that varies between computer work and pen/map work. I leave my pen's cap off and use it a bit every few minutes. Starting easily after sitting for a while would be perfect. (Although the noodlers red-black seemed to be great for this also.) Pulling my hair out with the elysium one. Have you considered a desk pen? I have a pair of Esterbrook desk sets I picked up for use at work and they did just fine with Rohrer and Klingner Morinda and Aurora Black. The only time I had trouble was when I went on holiday for a week and the red pen was hard to start when I returned; the black was still great. I know there are modern desk pens available from the Japanese brands, and vintage Esterbrook desk sets were about $50 on the 'bay when I picked mine up last year.
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# ¿ Jun 27, 2013 20:31 |
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kim jong-illin posted:Arse, I got my Lamy 2000 today and I'm not happy with the nib Just buy another! You can never have too many pens! I officially ran out of space in my two 22-slot pencases last month. I then bought another pen because I'm a sucker for Minuskin's "bargain" vintage posts.
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# ¿ Jun 27, 2013 22:09 |
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kim jong-illin posted:I really wish there was a better Noodler's stockist in the UK. There's only one reseller and they have such a small collection that's usually sold out. Gouletpens.com has a massive range and is always in stock but I get slammed with custom charged on top of what I've already paid. So frustrating because I love the huge diversity of Noodler's ink as well as the bottle/label design (Tiananmen Red has the best label I've seen yet). Well, it's a trade-off... We get Noodler's, you get Pelikan Blue-Black (and possibly Mont Blanc Lavender, if the scuttlebutt I hear about that ink's disappearance over here is true), and easier access to one of the best iron-gall inks out there, ESSRI. A member of my local FP club tells me one of his chums lives in Singapore and travels to the USA fairly frequently. Every time he flies back home, he has 10+ bottles of Noodler's ink in his luggage! Last time I visited my family in the UK I came back to the US with one new bottle of ink. It was Noodler's Luxury Blue.
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# ¿ Jun 28, 2013 02:05 |
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Xovaan posted:I would honestly take Noodler's Heart of Darkness over the Namiki black. It's probably the blackest ink you'll use and is probably the best ink Noodler carries. Interesting! I find Aurora black to be a deeper black than HoD, but my go-to black is X-Feather because sometimes ya gotta deal with crummy paper.
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# ¿ Jun 28, 2013 03:53 |
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If you want a vintage flex fountain pen I'd recommend camping Greg Minuskin's blog. He tends to post pens with flex nibs 2+ times a week for prices $50-100. He's a well-respected watch and fountain pen repairer and his wife does Spencerian. For learning Spencerian or Copperplate I'd recommend dip nibs, hands down. Also look at IAMPETH for some old copybooks that will teach copperplate/Spencerian/round hand.
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2013 20:04 |
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Those stone pens look like kit fountain pens to me, but I'm on my phone so I can't watch the video to see whether he mentions/admits the kit- or non-kit status. If they're kit pens, you could probably find someone selling similar on Etsy and get it delivered next week, though wood bodies are more popular for kit pens because wood is easier to work than stone. I don't like kit pens because they're usually too heavy for me and with the cheaper kits, the stock nibs aren't great. The more expensive kits have OK nibs and you could always buy a JoWo/Bock nib or a Goulet nib and substitute! Ignore the above if they're not kit pens. In other news, today is my birthday and I want to buy myself a gift. Options for a $100-$150 fountain pen? I prefer vintage pens and my collection has an emphasis on British and flex (I have 6 or 7 Mabie Todds, 3 Conway Stewarts and 4 Watermans) and I already have a Namiki Falcon. Are the modern Conway Stewarts worth a look? I know they bought the name.
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2013 20:47 |
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Oh! No way would I be buying a modern pen and looking for flex (Falcon and related speciality nibs excepted). Modern nibs can be springy and some can provide variation but in my personal book it's not the same as proper flex. I just mentioned my Falcon since I figured otherwise someone would recommend it.
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2013 21:04 |
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Thelonious Monk posted:Anyone use a Namiki falcon? Using iroshizuku ink in it leaves a very nice line, but using the sailor nanocarbon black in it seems to make it a really dry pen. Any suggestions for a bulletproof ink that works well in this thing? There have been reports of Noodler's bulletproofs melting the clear acrylic feeds in Pilots and Namikis, so I'd steer clear of Noodler's unless you're certain you're OK with that risk. Personally I believe the best permanent ink is an iron-gall, but as far as I know, you won't get a deep black from any FP-suitable iron-gall.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2013 19:22 |
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Teach posted:The others is a green plastic junk-show Parker that I've had around the house for years, but have only just got around to putting some Quink in to it. It's scratchy, and feels like I'm writing with a goose-quill, but it cost 50p, so I'm OK with that! ! That's a UK Parker Slimfold (probably Newhaven?) and they're great pens, though not popular these days because everyone wants GIANT HUGE PENS FOR MANLY GRIPS. Find a good nib-tuner to get it sorted for your hand and you'll have a great pen that just won't quit. John Sorowka sorted out mine - a 7-year-old me mangled the nib - and it's a great oblique semi-flex. P.S. Take me to your junk shows.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2013 21:18 |
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Pull out the nib and feed. See the channel that runs lengthwise down the top of the feed? Run a Stanley knife or razor blade down it gently a few times to deepen the channel. Wash out thoroughly to get rid of any dust/bits you may have made, re-assemble and test. In very simplified terms, a deeper channel means more ink flow. Go too far, though, and you'll get a permanently dribbling pen. If that doesn't get you enough flow there are other feed mods you can do with the same equipment, but just deepening the channel was enough for my last Ahab.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2013 08:45 |
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xilixliadon posted:Mixed baystate blue with bulletproof black for some very interesting results. The blue runs much, much further than the black. Ah, the one family of Noodler's inks that Nathan specifically warns against mixing with others. You rebel.
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2013 00:19 |
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I use and like Clairefontaine, Rhodia, and Original Crown Mill paper. The Rhodia and Clairefontaine papers have sizing on them, which means if you run your fingers along it you'll notice that they feel a bit coated. Note that though Clairefontaine makes paper for Rhodia, the paper in Rhodia pads is different from the paper in Clairefontaine pads; they're different weights. I find Rhodia and CF papers better for work with flex nibs or anything where you want thin lines to stay thin and not "spread"; OCM paper has a feel all its own that just screams "classy". I've not tried enough Japanese paper to be able to judge it, and I'm too short on money and well-stocked with Rhodia right now to be able to justify trying some.
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2013 02:13 |
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Get a nice vintage Parker '51.
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2013 07:22 |
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Everything Burrito posted:What will be the best way to loosen this thing up, especially if I don't really give a poo poo about saving any of the rest of it? Hairdryer? Heat gun? Open flame? A hammer? If you're ever going to own or work on vintage pens, a heat gun will be invaluable. (I will let your use of the f-word with respect to a steel nib go, even though it pains me.)
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2013 04:02 |
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Steel nibs can be great - I love my LAMY and my Reynolds - but you can never make a steel 'flex' fountain-pen nib that performs like a vintage gold nib could. The Noodlers Nib Creaper, the Stipula T-Flex, and the Platinum cool are marketed or purchased based on the mythical magical 'modern flex', but try them in the hand against a vintage gold nib and you'll notice that the feel so very different. The more vintage pens I acquire and use, the more firm I become in this belief. For steel nibs I gladly use the word 'variation', but not 'flex'. Of course, that's just me! (Note to self - scan pen/ink journal to share examples of vintage flex versus modern variation.)
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2013 07:20 |
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cobalt impurity posted:don't anybody sit on a throne and scowl down at the unwashed peons because their writing tool isn't as bendy in places as yours You'll take my Sheaffer snorkel throne from my cold, dead, hands.
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2013 07:16 |
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You could also try some other irongall inks. Rohrer+Klingner make a good one, Diamine make one, and there's the old reliable ESSRI. ESSRI is my favourite iron-gall. Just got back from my local fountain pen posse. Some dude brought his giant collection of pens; I suspect he had more than $15,000 worth of writing instruments with him. Some gorgeous Italian and Japanese pens in there, amazing range of celluloid colors, and a few Swans I wanted to adopt. I hope he doesn't continue collecting Swans though, he'll be pricing me out of the market.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2013 03:16 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:That pen they got for sale there with the ink, is it any good? Is it somehow designed for use with this ink or am I just thinking too hard about this? Looks like a Parker Vector; they're common pens. Nothing special about the one on the site as far as I can see. You can use commercial iron-gall inks with most pens; just don't mix with regular inks (and make sure to clean the pen well before you switch inks) and don't leave a full pen sitting for weeks with i-g ink in it.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2013 15:46 |
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Nothing in that range is going to have swappable nibs like the LAMY pens do, but the Pilot 78G comes to mind because i have one. They're on Todd's site - isellpens - and probably Amazon, too. They're asian-market only so Goulet etc wont have them. Much less than $30, they have a plastic body. Comes with a converter for bottled ink and takes Pilot cartridges. The "B" nib is what you want; it's not really "B" - it's more italic. The nibs might be swappable with the Pilot Plumix; I haven't checked. But really in the $30-$50 range there are tons. What look do you like? ChickenOfTomorrow fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Aug 13, 2013 |
# ¿ Aug 13, 2013 21:11 |
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MB Racing Green is out of production, so don't get too attached to it!
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# ¿ Aug 15, 2013 15:41 |
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Duro posted:The Mont Blanc Blue-Black is supposed to be really nice, though it might be Iron Gall You're not a fan of iron gall? Tell me more. I love 'em, and have some iron-gall blends mixed up by a crazy german pharmacist that aren't plain blue->blue-black (I have green->black, orange->sepia, turquoise->blue-black).
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# ¿ Aug 16, 2013 06:14 |
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Considering Nathan Tardiff's political views that's not far wrong.
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# ¿ Aug 23, 2013 18:27 |
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Kheldragar posted:Writing with it upside-down actually worked. And the funny thing is, is that soon after posting that, writing it the normal way didn't make me miss any letters or parts of letters. The problem was sort of like when I just start using a calligraphy pen after not using it for a while - the ink just won't come out. I noticed that in a lower case "t" (which looks like a + in my handwriting), the line straight down simply had no ink on it, but the line across did; as if it was dry for that stroke. I just started using it, so maybe I had to give it some time. That's known as "hard starting" and can be caused by a nib flaw known as "baby's bottom". I'm on my phone right now but Richard Binder's site has a nice discussion of baby's bottom and how to fix it. The easiest fix may be to grab a brown paper bag and draw a bunch of figure 8s. The brown bag is a wee bit abrasive and will smooth out the bum shape. Make sure to test frequently so you don't abrade it too much.
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# ¿ Aug 26, 2013 02:30 |
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aldantefax posted:So I've tracked down three brick and mortar stores that have fountain pen displays and inks of various sorts in the SF Bay Area Have you joined the SF Pen Posse yet? We usually meet in Millbrae.
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2013 10:20 |
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aldantefax posted:poo poo, a posse? Hook me up. https://www.facebook.com/groups/157316137670380/ Poom!
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2013 17:30 |
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I'm not a big fan of blue inks - they remind me of school - but my favorite blue-blacks are iron-gall blue blacks. Since you're on Goulet anyway, try the R+K Salix.
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# ¿ Sep 6, 2013 05:45 |
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You probably have baby's bottom or your tines are too far apart. Review Richard Binder's Nib Primer for the basics; you can move on to his Nib Smoothing Workshop notes if you want to learn more about fixin' nib issues.
ChickenOfTomorrow fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Sep 7, 2013 |
# ¿ Sep 7, 2013 23:31 |
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cobalt impurity posted:Great idea! There's one for the parts of a pen, but I guess there are a few more esoteric words that would be helpful to have there. Feel free to toss in ideas of what I should add, folks! Take your pick from the definitive glossary.. Seriously, I know I mention Binder a lot, but anyone who is interested in pens should spend a little time poking around his site, especially the glossary and articles. They are very well done and hugely informative.
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# ¿ Sep 9, 2013 07:02 |
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Might be a Skripsert - did she have a case for it or have it as part of a matched pair?
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# ¿ Sep 14, 2013 18:43 |
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If Brightman's got the set still some of 'em are mildly sought after. I personally never got along with post-lever Sheaffer's; I have a Craftsman just to round out the collection, but I don't really enjoy it.
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# ¿ Sep 14, 2013 18:54 |
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Captain Postal posted:Is there a solution I should be looking into to still have the fountain-pen-goodness but without the mess? Should I try an inkwell (warning: I'm a bit of a clutz)? Find a pen with a different filling mechanism? What should I be researching? Cartridges? If you want to keep using bottled ink rather than cartridges, investigate the TWSBI Diamond and the TWSBI Diamond inkwells. They are built to complement one another so you can fill the pen without really having to touch the ink. Oh and you can attach an international converter to the TWSBI diamond inkwells, if you use a pen that takes int'l cartridges - LAMY's not one of that flock though. If you fancy vintage, probably the premiere pen to avoid inky fingers is the Sheaffer Snorkel.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2013 04:07 |
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kim jong-illin posted:Wipe the grip off with a tissue afterwards and it'll be clean and you won't get inky fingers. Heck, if you buy LAMY ink, the bottles have a plastic container in the base that's full of blotting paper. I'm ont a fan of LAMY ink, but I do like their bottles. I'm thinking about taking a picture of my collection (40+ pens, minus 4 Mabie Todds that are out being repaired). Any interest? I don't want to flood the thread with pictures no-one cares about. I've got writing samples too, but they're in a notebook I'd have to scan.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2013 23:20 |
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Buy some ink-NIX, it's great at removing ink stains. But if you get a Noodler's bulletproof or iron-gall on anything with organic fibres (e.g. a cotton shirt) it's never coming out. Those inks react chemically and the only way to remove them is with a laser (and even that's not certain; Nathan insists his BP inks are laser-proof). I have a stash of empty int'l short cartridges and Pilot cartridges "just in case", but both are readily available with ink already inside them.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2013 00:03 |
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Captain Postal posted:We used to have a similar problem in my industry with cleaning hands and they came out with the really powerful cleaner that worked wonders called MEK, and all the old timers started getting kidney and liver problems from the solvents being absorbed through their skin. MEK is not uncommon in the vintage FP world, either since it can be used to mend cracks in, erm, either celluloid or acrylic, I can't recall right now. Got me a bottle in my little "home fixin' kit" next to the shellac and brass shims. Note to self: don't drink alcohol after using MEK, yer liver's not that strong. Pictures coming shortly; turns out I've got 43 fountain pens on hand and about 1 gram of photographic talent.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2013 03:47 |
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All right! Here's part 1 of my little collection, along with labels so I can wax melodic about each one. Those of you who are on FPN or other FP boards may be able to work out who I am since I have a couple of 'one of a kind' pens. I politely request that you not go all Internet Detective on me since I'm quite boring. If you would like a better picture or more info about a pen, let me know and I'll see what I can do! Batch 1. This is a melange of "pens I'm likely to get rid of soon," "non-flexies," and "in use":
ChickenOfTomorrow fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Sep 18, 2013 |
# ¿ Sep 18, 2013 05:59 |
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Batch 2. Flexies.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2013 06:33 |
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T-T-T-TRIPLE POST!!! Batch 3. More flexies.
And finally, some glamour shots:
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2013 06:53 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 06:26 |
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Verdugo posted:It's funny. I don't live in San Fransisco (or anywhere close) and I am a member of that group on facebook. There are some nice pens featured there, especially the custom ones. Last time I went I sat near a dude talking about his custom Nakaya. He ordered a multiple-thousand-dollar pen, requests a kanji of his own name in maki-e, waits 6 months for it to be completed, and when he gets it the kanji is 5 degrees off from the center of the zogon when the pen is assembled. In his eyes the pen is ruined. ChickenOfTomorrow fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Sep 28, 2013 |
# ¿ Sep 19, 2013 17:49 |