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HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Weird question: I kinda want to make (or realistically, have made for me) an XXL fude/concord nib in the pursuit of maximum line variation. Are there any nibs with really long tines that would be suited to be bent into one? Basically looking for as much metal extending past the tip of the feed as I can get in order to have a nice hockey stick to draw with.

I do have a Duke 551 already, which seems to be the longest stock fude nib you can get, and the thing loving rules. But I want to go bigger

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HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

It's possible that I just need to move into markers/brushes at a certain size, but the metal on paper feel is way too satisfying

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Eccles posted:

Pilot Parallel?

Absolutely a candidate. There's these Chinese Parallels that cap out at 11mm vs Pilot's 6mm that I could chop down to a hockey stick shape, which is Plan C or D currently. I did make a knife/ruling nib out of a 3.8mm parallel recently and it's a blast to use, so def gonna try modding a couple more this summer

Dad Hominem posted:

There are a bunch of people making stacked nibs these days, you could order a custom or learn to DIY.

Crowds bowing to the first nibmeister to stack em lengthwise

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

some recent homemade concord nib grinds + the ruling pen mod for the pilot parallel nib. it actually kicks so much rear end being able to make your dream pen, and it's just a tiny piece of metal, so you can unfuck anything you mess up with a couple swipes of a sanding file. plus its fun to own and use a jewelers loupe

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HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

mortons stork posted:

How does a concord nib work? The curvature seems like it would need some very special grip and angle in order to draw its lines.
What kind of lines does it make?

Regular side up, they'll produce a stiff but uniform line weight, but I mostly use em feed up/face down in order to get a huge variation in line width that comes with drawing with a curved surface. In practice it works just like how drawing with a pencil works, where a more vertical grip is a fine point and then as you gradually lower the angle it'll produce bigger fatter strokes (great for shading + filling in shadows). Currently working on getting that gradual curve to smoothly extend to the breather hole so I can paint with the entire face of it at the lowest angle for like a 5-6mm wide line, but currently it'll make anything between extra fine and 3mm. The edges of the lines are way more ragged than something like a stub nib, but that's a plus for me. As with a fude, you can also use the side of the nib as a scoop or palette knife to push around the bead of ink on the paper, but that's pretty situational.

I did also make a concord with a fude-type single bend as opposed to a gentle curve, where youre using pressure to get the various line widths, but I'm way less of a fan. Benefits of a concord over a fude nib are that it'll fit inside any pen cap (whereas a fude being bent away from the pen body makes it require a wider cap) and that it makes use of pen nibs already being curved, so it's gentle on toothy watercolor paper.

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

smallish 6"x6" sketch sample with the corcord nib so you can see the types of marks it makes (on thick mixed media paper admittedly). The nib still needs a bit more tuning and then polishing but I really can't complain for a second attempt with only like 2 or 3 weeks of nib modding experience

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HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Downside: going through 2ml of ink in a couple hours of drawing. Upside: getting to say poo poo like "Ohho, she's a gusher" and "I'll have to floss the slit tonight"

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Btw, if you're looking to dabble with a big expressive bent nib, my recommendation is the Duke 551 ($29, chunky & heavy but pretty) or Duke 116 ($22)(lightweight but barebones finish), both will do fine to 4mm lines and have 3-tined music nibs which put out plenty of ink and work great with different angles & levels of pressure. Gonna attempt to convert one of those nibs to a concord in the future but I dunno how well the tines will handle being flattened and then bent the opposite direction they started as. We'll see!

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

grack posted:

Those aren't music nibs and they're not three-tined.

???? They’re three tined and have a slight stub nib shape due to it

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

mortons stork posted:

6mm? that's insane, I think that's about the max you can get for a pilot parallel stub! And that will only make 6mm lines so it sounds a lot more flexible an instrument than that too.

Wonder what kind of lettering you could make out of this, probably could approximate some character styles that need brush adjustments?

This is awesome dude! If you hadn't told me I wouldn't have believed all of it was drawn with the same instrument. that's so freaking cool

Thanks a bunch, glad you dig it! I've been over the moon with the nibsmithing rabbit hole so stay tuned for more

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

howe_sam posted:

Three tines != music nib. Most of them do, but not all. What makes it a music nib is the real stubby grind.

Ohhh cool, thx! Tbf I'm new to the hobby so some terms I'm likely picking up and misusing. But the pen shop near me I think has one of Sailor's two-tined music nibs in stock, I should try it out just to see

Chip McFuck posted:

Edit: Also, how did you modify your nibs? The drawings are really impressive and I've got a bunch of cheap pens I wouldn't mind experimenting on...

Nothing too fancy, just sandpaper, a metal diamond file, a 10x jewelers loupe from amazon, and a pair of Beadsmith parallel pliers for bending. I feel like the loupe is the most important part just for getting a good look at what's going on up close. I also grabbed a handful of these blank nibs with big tipping to try different grinds on. Will be trying some similar ones from Fulin next + some Jinhao extra fines cuz theyre cheap

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Chip McFuck posted:

Interesting; I knew about Sailor's two-tined music nib but didn't realize it wasn't an outlier. I guess the question I have is are there three tined nibs that aren't music nibs?

Been experimenting with that, rounding down the edges very gradually and patiently to see how much of the stubbishness I can remove while having it still work nicely. Definitely seems doable

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HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

weird niche question: Will chopping 2-3mm off of the nib/tip end of a feed cause any significant impact in ink flow? I wanna try making a big fude nib that's bent closer to the breather hole and will assumedly have to shorten the feed to keep it from protruding

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

grack posted:

It can, but it depends on the nib and feed. The feed has to extend far enough to provide ink flow to the nib slit.

Also, gently caress eBay's international shipping. Bought a pen over two weeks ago and it hasn't even left the US yet. The seller shipped it the day after the auction ended!

:tipshat:

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

btw chopping the feed down worked just fine! haven't made a fude nib for it yet but here's the types of marks i'm getting from a jinhao EF #8 size concord nib (in grey) in comparison to a #6 semiflex nib in fuchsia. although now the collar of the pen body is the limiting factor in getting the pen low enough to make the super fatass 10+mm strokes

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HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002


I feel like your problem might be that the ink is a pretty thin transparent mix of light green and rose colored dyes that only settle into that darker brown color where they're really saturating the surface. Paper will make plenty of difference here, as will a wetter broader nib, adjusting your handwriting so you're depositing more consistent pools of ink on each letter, and possibly writing with a heavier hand to abrade the paper fibers a little. I personally like to pair em with pentel's brush pens to bring out that dual-color aspect or weird-shaped nibs with wet expressive footprints that can move large amounts of ink around. You could also try mixing it with another ink of theirs but that's another, bigger ymmv.

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

These are some Sailor Manyo inks that I assume have sort of the same legibility issue where there's a huge jump in value between areas where it's spread thinner and thicker. Even in super wet nibs like below that'll still be there, but at least the lighter parts are easier to see

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HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Trevor Hale posted:

Is there a tactile difference in lighter inks? I suppose there must be if there’s not as much stuff there to lubricate the nib on the paper, right?

Hmmm I feel like my thickest pigment ink does write a liiiittle bit smoother than my thinnest dye based ink, but it could just be coincidence that my designated viscous ink pens have slightly smoother nibs. I'd have to test it but the difference is probably slight

e: Did a quick lil test and can't say I could point out any difference

HolePisser1982 fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Sep 30, 2024

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Fearless posted:

Picked up a fresh bottle of ama-iro today, and a recent score from an auction arrived in the mail as well. I was reasonably certain that I had gotten a Sheaffer Imperial Touchdown at an exceptionally good price but instead was pleasantly surprised to discover it was a PFM-IV.

A couple of hours later, and the new pen is cleaned, re-sacked, has fresh seals and is writing beautifully. I will do more cosmetic polishing over the next couple of days.

Question for ya: I've got a 70's/80's Sheaffer 444 quasi-imperial with some slightly loose threads on the body/housing. Any recommendations on making that a little more secure so I dont risk it unscrewing in my pocket? I've tried silicone grease (slight improvement) but could use something tackier. It'll need to come open like once a week for refills so I've been ruling out teflon tape or loctite. Threads are plastic on the head side and chrome on the body. Any ideas?

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Group shot of the concord nibs i've been making for the past month (and a bonus waverly up top). Will be trying this with a 14k sheaffer triumph nib eventually after I get enough practice on cheaper stuff. I'm in love the marks they make though, absolutely time well spent

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HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Fearless posted:

Hmmm. I might be tempted to look for something tackier than silicone grease-- there are some thread sealers out there like this stuff:

https://fifteenpens.ca/collections/adhesives-and-lubricants/products/thread-sealant

You could get a similar effect from one of those wax toilet gaskets-- those are made from a solidified form of alox, which can function as a very high temperature lubricant or a thread sealer at lower temps. One gasket will run a couple of dollars at your local hardware store and have loads more material in it than you will ever need for the task. Anyways, it's quite tacky and yet reversible insofar as body heat or a blow dryer will warm it up enough that it will allow the barrel to unthread.

Shellac would be another option though it can complicate getting that pen back open again regularly for filling (though it can be reactivated with gentle heat from a blow dryer). I would add just a single dab of it as opposed to fully coating the threads and see how tightly that locks it down.

:worship::worship::worship:

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

I really underestimated how disgusting Noodler's pens would smell. Truly insane. Since I bought it, a couple times I've caught a whiff of literal dog poo poo from somewhere and my first thought was how much I hate that pen

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

passing along some good news: Diamine is releasing a nano pigment "Forever Inks" line in the spring. via nickstewart.ink

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

My only art supply more rancid than my noodler's pen is a type of casein-based paint that, when wet, smells like a heavily abused bus station bathroom. Insanely hard to find any scenarios to use that stuff in. Although similar to the butyric acid smell, there seems to exist people immune to it

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Everett False posted:

I have a friend with a question someone here might be able to answer!

They've tried looking at swatches but a lot of different swatches from different people appear to be contradictory. All I know about what they're looking for is a good waterproof brown that won't just look black.

I personally went with the Brown over the Sepia Brown because it's a little bit brighter and warmer, so if I want to make the Sepia I can just mix in the tiniest bit of black

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Also it takes a few coats for the regular Brown to start approaching black, and the Sepia Brown only looks a shade darker, so I'd imagine either will be safely non-black for your friend's purposes

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

grack posted:

Speaking of that brand, I'm working on a Montegrappa Ferrari Special Edition that someone dropped on the floor. God drat the nib is an absolute mess.

If I can ever grab any tips from you on flattening bent nibs it'd be much appreciated. I've been converting some 3-tined fude nibs to concords and it's been a challenge to flatten their 40° bend without producing any kinks

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

grack posted:

Put the portion of the nib you want to straighten on a wooden block, and then roll a wooden dowel over the top of the nib. If you're worried about scratches use can put some painter's tape or Kaptan tape on the top of the nib.

And sometimes you might just end up with kinks regardless when you're bending a nib that much.

hell yeah, thank ya!

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Any frankenpen fans have recommendations for vintage flex nibs that can be fitted into jowo or bock housings? I'm comfortable with some degree of modding the nib and feed if need be. Just need something with maximum line variation that I can toss into a modern body that I wont feel bad about getting dinged up in my pocket. Also I use almost entirely pigment based inks that supposedly corrode the sacs that vintage pens use. TIA!

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

signalnoise posted:

How do I avoid getting taken for a ride at a pen show? How can I spot a good deal? My wife is taking me to a pen show this weekend.

Nibmeisters that have a posse of hella elderly people watching their every move = safe. Nibmeisters with a posse of leather jacketed shutter shaded toughboys = dangerous

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

grack posted:

Here's a fun one, this pen repair ended up being a lot of left turns

This



Is a Montegrappa Ferrari, circa 2005. The owner dropped the pen and bent the nib out of shape, so I was asked to take a look at it. After doing the initial straightening, I determined that the nib was just too damaged to repair. Given that, the owner asked me if I could source a replacement nib and I said I would try.

So I pulled the nib out and this is what I find:



That is a Montblanc nib! After doing some more research, I discovered that this pen was actually made by Montblanc, and uses the nib, feed and cartridge loading mechanism of a Montblanc 147 "Traveler" circa early-2000s. This actually ended up being a good thing. Montblanc doesn't sell nibs separately, but they are available if you're willing to pay the sometimes eye-watering prices they command.

Last night I was able to get my hands on a replacement 146/147 from the correct time period at a price that the owner was willing to pay, and



Perfect fit. I still need to do some minor adjustment, but the pen now writes.

Sold by Montegrappa, co-branded with Ferrari, and made by Montblanc. loving weird all around.

that's so sick and so expensive, jesus. what do you generally do with damaged pricey nibs like the one above? toss em in a drawer for some future project? sell em for scrap gold?

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

grack posted:

I always return nibs to the owner unless they say otherwise. Having the original nib for a pen like this Montegrappa, even broken, is important for provenance.

It also has a non-trivial value as scrap gold, so it's not really mine to keep regardless.

:tipshat:

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

I do absolutely love the high capacity converter Jinhao came up with for the 9016, but unfortunately there's zero chance of fitting it in any other company's pen

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

I remember kind of laughing at how much you all seemed to worship the Opus 88 when i first read the thread, but man... the thing fuckin rules. I should have bought more than one..

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Zenostein posted:

Honorable Mention to the various Chinese p51 clones where the sac is shellacked in but the press mechanism slides right off.

lmao, hate these mother fuckers and they're never in pens i can easily convert to an eyedropper either

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Sankis posted:

inexplicably this 90 year old Parker Parkette I picked up on a whim has become my most used pen. There's nothing particularly special about it, but it's still just really nice to write with. It's also really pretty.



so sick....

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Bilirubin posted:

Debating between a Pilot Metropolitan and Lamy Safari as babby's first refillable pen. I like the idea of metal over plastic so lean that way but it seems they can be fussier from comments above?

you could also consider the Pilot Prera with the more squared-off CM (Calligraphy Medium) nib if you wanted to add a little flair to your writing

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HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

You want pigment inks if:
Your writing/drawing is going to be exposed to light for years
You want to work on top of it with some sort of mixed media
You want to write on things not made of paper
You want something very opaque

otherwise they're probably not worth the hassle. I love em though

HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Bilirubin posted:

Thanks, that's a helpful rule of thumb.

For permanent marking up of things I have a full set of Rapidograph pens and India ink (I know not to use India ink in fountain pens) but should fancier writing be required pigment it will be

ah, for some reason I thought india ink would jam up in rapidographs.. but that means my busted one was my own fault.... noo

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HolePisser1982
Nov 3, 2002

Sagebrush posted:

India ink does jam up in rapidographs. However you can completely disassemble them for cleaning in a way you can't with fountain pens, so it's not quite as big of a disaster. You're still meant to empty them out and clean them anytime you're letting them sit for more than a few days.

ohh okay, thank you!

been kicking myself lately for missing a couple chances to hang out with the owner of Regalia Writing Labs and try one of his eyewatering $10,000 stacked nibs, also pick his brain about designing paintbrush-esque nibs. I'm still trying to figure out how to make my ultimate concord nib, but I'm getting closer!

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